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><font face=arial color=scarlet>Varmints love wells, >but when they fall in they cannot get out. What >remains of their carcases are in that black muck at >the bottom of your well. That is why the first thing >you should do is to build a locking cover for the top >of your well. You are correct in that the best way to >get rid of the muck is by hiring a honey pot pumper to >do it for you. They actually design these trucks to >get into remote places where other vehicles lose an >oil pan because septic tanks are most commonly found >in rural areas. But if the truck cannot get there, >pour two gallons of ordinary chlorine bleach down the >well, leave it overnight, and then pump until the >smell goes away. Now you can cover the bottom in a >thin layer of pebbles from a nearby river or creek. >Next time you go to the big city, stop at a pet store >and purchase a male Beta (Siamese Fighting Fish). It >shouldn't cost you more than $3. When you get him >home, put him in a bowl of well water and change it >once a week. He will perform the same function for >your water well as a canary performs for a coal mine. >You can feed him mosquito and insect larvae from the >creek. This particular fish does not require >oxygenated water. If his color begins to fade or he >dies, you may have cause to worry about the quality of >your well water. Do not put more than one fish in a >bowl because the males fight to the death. Don't be >scared by bubbles on the surface of the water. It's a >natural occurrence with this type of fish. Remember, >the brighter the colors, the healthier the fish, i. e. >a bright fish means the water is at least irrigation >quality. For potable water, you will need a lab >test.</font> > >>I built a cabin overlooking the juncture of three >>coulees (ravines) and have discovered at the foot of >>the hill (80 feet below us) there is an old hand-dug >>brick lined pit well about 15-18 feet deep with 7-10 >>feet of water in it. There is electrical power nearby >>as well as a stock tank, so I dropped a sump pump down >>to 20 inches below the top surface, and turned it on - >>day & night - for three months at 1100 gallons per >>hour, and it only dropped the level 6 inches. Now the >>problem: The bottom of the well has 3 feet (perhaps >>more) of black slimy muddy muck (stinks) that I would >>like to clear out. Ideally, a sewar sucking truck >>would work perfectly, but the site is inaccessible to >>trucks. What if I bought a "dirty water" pump that can >>handle solids up to 5 mm, and pumps at 1800 gph, and >>just re-cycled the water in the well to "stir it all >>up into a soup, then pump it all out into the nearby >>creek,(if I can get ahead of the in-flow rate), or >>until it runs clear, then drop in 3 or 4 wheelbarrows >>of crushed inch rock onto the bottom? Would this >>hopefully eliminate the black stinky slim? Any >>suggestions? Would it be counter-productive to just >>drop the wheelbarrows full of crushed rock onto the >>existing black muck? I was told by an old well driller >>to NOT use pea gravel, as it can bind up and shut off >>any water in-flow. I don't know if the in-flow is >>coming from the bottom or sides. Of course I would >>then have it purified and tested, and also would rely >>on an expensive filter if I were ever inclined to >>drink it (which right now I'm not).

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