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Date Posted: - Monday - 04/ 9/12 - 3:25pm
Author: Seatz (:-))
Subject: Stripping down Toe/Taffrail to barewood. any paint varnish ideas?
The toe/taffrail on Blues Traveler was stained and then varnished quickly but the varnish was pealing of on the top of the rail so we decided to go down to bare wood again which involved a few days of paint stripping and after the old varnish and stain was out we started sanding and discovered it had been painted white before.
We were thinking of sanding the sides all the way down again till the old white paint in the cracks is gone and varnish the whole thing.
has anyone done this? or do most people only the top rounded part (i believe that's teak) and just paint the sides.
the outside has a lot of cracks and epoxy filled spaces so all of this will show up when we varnish. and we tried a test patch and it looks kinda brown and doesn't match the color of the wood of either the bowsprit or the sign boards on the sides of the bow.
does anyone know what kind of wood the side rail is?
it feels very hard and had really interesting grain/stripes on it.
okay a picture will say a bit more so here we go:
We're curious if people have stained the sides of the rail before to match the other woods like the signboards and bowsprit and which stain they used (minwax???)
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Treated fur or pine with teak cap rail -- Paul M31 #106 NJ, - Friday - 04/13/12 - 8:55am
Looks like the previous owner installed treated lumber - typically found on a house deck - where one would expect solid teak. The cap rail appears to be teak.
The construction lumber will probably hold out for a while, but my recommendation would be to protect it with a layer of fiberglass mat. A few layers of resin over the mat should provide for a solid and smooth surface to paint and maintain from then on. Painting the wood as is will be subject to quick failure and is a waste of time, plus the failed paint will allow the lumber to get soaked and it will fail soon too.
It would have been best if the lumber were glasses over before installation, i.e. with a 100% wrap of the matting, but now that it is installed, covering it over is probably the best remedy until it will inevitably will need to be replaced.
If you are going for the teak look, there are kits you can buy that allow you to create fake teak by painting a base coat followed by a few coats of teaking stain. I didi it on a glassed hatch a few years ago and, from a distance, it does blend in well with the real stuff. Of course, the teaking stain needs to be varnished the same as the real teak with the usual 7 to 9 coats of a good marine varnish, which blends it in even better yet.
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