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Thu, March 28 2024, 22:19Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 12345[6]789 ]


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Date Posted: - Saturday - 03/29/08 - 1:06am
Author: Steve M-32 #59
Subject: keel cavities
In reply to: Steve Burge 's message, "Rusting keel" on - Friday - 03/28/08 - 7:23pm

On the fiberglass 31 and 32 (and presumably on the fiberglass others) there are no keel bolts. The ballast is internal and consists of iron secured with fiberglass in a hull cavity. This type of construction can be worriesome because if water intrudes into the cavity and the iron rusts you can have the problems mentioned in the first post. If no water intrudes there are no problems and you have no worry about keel bolts or other maintenance. Everything is a tradeoff. Given the date of manufacture of the first post I think that is wood 40 and probably does have keel bolts though whether the keel is iron or lead I don't know. An external iron keel does not give you the potential problems of cracking the hull for the simple fact that it is outside the hull. Rust on the bolts could be a problem but not expansion because of rust. Steve the rust you are seeing cannot be from the keel bolts because A. you don't have any :-) and B. you are too far forward. Most likely you sre seeing rust from the lower plate for the bobstay and it should be looked at and fixed.

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Replies:

[> [> Keel bolts -- Peter Karczmar, - Saturday - 03/29/08 - 9:15am

On our '68 M40 the keel bolts go directly through the keel and get pounded out once you remove giant (corroded)nuts in the bilge. Our bolts were in pretty sorry shape. We replaced them with stainless steel bolts that we had fabricated. Our water tank is mounted in the center under the sole requiring both the sole to be taken up and the tank removed to access the bolts. Although a major pain in the %&*#$, I'm glad we did it. It turns out the monel (supposedly corrosion-proof) water tank was starting to fall apart as it was supported by iron stringers resulting in galvanic corrosion. To add insult to injury, the corrosion resulted in delignification of the adjacent oak ribs, essentially turning them into shredded wheat. Because this was all occurring underneath the shiny monel tank we wouldn't have know what was going on until the tank sprang a leak, we popped a plank below the water line, or lost our keel...choose your poison. We replaced the iron stringers with fiberglass one we had fabricated to the same dimensions as the old ones and replaced the water tank with a polyethylene one.


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[> [> [> Water Tank and Bolts -- John Seyna, - Monday - 04/ 7/08 - 1:03pm

Just saw this string of comments regarding the 1968 M40. I also have a wooden 1968 Mariner (Champagne M31). I just bought her last Oct. and commented to my wife that one of the first things I need to do is pull the water tank. She and most others thought I was nuts to go through the hassle of pulling out the water tank. My reasoning was that I had no idea what was going on under that tank! A task I need to do in the next month. I'm surprised they designed the boat with no easy way to get that out. My keel bolts show rusted inside nuts, but probably will not get to replaceing them this year. Pete, how did you get the clearance to remove the bolts? Were you in a travel lift?


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[> [> [> [> Water tank and bolts -- Peter Karczmar, - Wednesday - 04/16/08 - 10:36pm

The boat was hauled out in dry dock for the work. I don't think you'll regret pulling the tank out and inspecting the keel bolts. Best of luck. Peter


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