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Date Posted: - Saturday - 05/10/03 - 2:51pm
Author: ian
Author Host/IP: ppp-66-63-156-175.sdc1.ip.ricochet.net / 66.63.156.175
Subject: Re: M31 Deck Replacement
In reply to: Gene MS 's message, "M31 Deck Replacement" on - Friday - 05/ 2/03 - 1:08pm

Bad idea for a lot of reasons. The theory is sound; it is similar to the technique using rubberized lagging compound (Arabol) with stretched canvas over planked decks. But vinyl (especially cheap vinyl)is a bad idea for the following reasons (I worked with vinyl sheet goods for years at sign shops, so I have some experience with it)-

It is slippery when wet, and it will be difficult/expensive/impossible to get nonskid to stick to it. It's what a Slip'n'Slide toy is made of....

It shrinks. If you've ever seen an unused bumper sticker that is a few years old, you have seen the telltale border of backing paper that shrinking vinyl leaves. You decks will look the same way, no matter what you bed it in. Even if the edges are held captive, the vinyl will shrink away from itself and split.

Unless the vinyl is specifically formulated with UV protection, it will break down quickly in the sun and become chalky or hard, or both. As the solvents leach out of it, it will become brittle and prone to cracking.

Your "impermeable" membrane will be punctured in short order in real world sailing conditions by dropped winch handles, anchors, even a flogging jib sheet shackle could puncture it during sail handling. Repairing it would be unsightly at best, and impossible at worst, especially after the vinyl has been dried out by exposure.

The original fiberglass, while thin, does add structural integrity, vinyl won't.
*********
Arabol and fiberglass is a perfectly acceptable and relatively cheap deck sealing method; even though it has to be redone periodically (like fiberglass/resin over ply), I guarantee you that if properly applied, it will outlast even the highest priced vinyl sheet. If you still want to go higher tech and your budget allows, consider using a saturating polyurethane or epoxy with a woven glass or synthetic cloth like Kevlar.

Deck rot and delamination is the Achilles heel of the early Mariners, and is best taken care of by doing the job the best possible way you can afford. Overhead leaks are second only to underwater leaks in my big book of boating aggravations.

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Replies:

[> [> Re: M31 Deck Replacement -- George T. Muller, - Monday - 05/12/03 - 4:51pm (WCS1-MOFFETT.NIPR.MIL/198.26.118.36)

Here is some info I received from Cascade Yachts on a possible replacement of the deck for my 32.

Hi George,

Thanks for thinking of us. You are not facing an easy task anyway you look at it.

I am not sure as to the extent of the damage your deck has sustained, but it may be best to carefully replace the damaged areas. By carefully, I mean to salvage anything possible for patterns for the new wooden components. Don't worry about the deck that is solid.

When you are done with the wood working, glass over the plywood with a couple of layers of 8-10 oz cloth. You may want to put a layer over the entire deck for good measure.

If you want a fiberglass deck and house, we can use our molds to make a Cascade 29 or 36 top. Our Cascade 29 is approx. 29' LOD X 8'2" BEAM (a new 29 top would be about $15,000). Our Cascade 36 is about 36' LOD X 10' BEAM (a new 36 top is about $23,000). We had one customer put a 36 top on a 29 with the clever use of a saw and more fiberglass!

We can build custom plugs, molds, etc.; non are inexpensive. A mold can run between two and three times the cost of the finished part. We do nothing on speculation. If the Mariner Owner's Assoc. wants a Mariner deck mold, they need to hire us to do it. The best plug (to make the mold) is another Mariner.

Hope this helps.
Stu Whitcomb

I'm wondering if other have considered getting a company to pop out a entire deck for the 31/32 as it might be a easier but more expensive way to go.
George

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