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Date Posted: 21:28:55 09/02/07 Sun
Author: Connie Eggers
Subject: Edinburgh, Inverness and Orkney

I visited Scotland in July (2007) and it was everything I had dreamed of. We began in Edinburgh. Besides the city highlights we took a couple of day trips from Edinburgh that were well worth the effort. The first was to Stirling. What a beautiful little town. We walked from the train station up the hill to Stirling Castle and arrived just in time for one of the regularly scheduled guided tours. It was very good and packed with lots of historical information. From the castle we caught the Hop On Hop Off bus which took us past the Wallace Monument and Stirling Bridge on our way to the battlefield at Bannockburn. Don't bother with Bannockburn if you are not a historical junkie but, oh if you are! The monument to Robert the Bruce is literally larger than life and a fertile imagination can transport you from the quiet green field back in time 700 years to a pivotal time and event in Scottish history. There is also a very good visitor center with an excellent exibit. Another highlight of the day was a very entertaining guided tour of the Old Town Gaol (jail).

Our other day trip was across the southern border to Hadrians Wall. If you travel by train buy your round trip ticket from Edinburgh all the way to Hexham, not just to Newcastle. In front of the Hexham Tourist Office you can catch the Hadrian's Wall bus #AD122. We got off at Housesteads to explore the ruins of the fort and then hiked along the Wall to Twice Brewed. It's only about 3 miles and takes you through some amazingly beautiful English countryside. Take the camera!! An unexpected bonus was how peaceful it was. We encountered other hikers occasionally but definately NOT hoardes of tourists. You can pick up the bus at Twice Brewed for the return ride to Hexham.

From Edinburgh we flew to the Orkney Islands off the north Scottish coast to visit some of Britain"s most amazing archaelogical sites. 5000 year old burial cairns (older than the pyramids!), standing stone circles and an incredibly preserved neolithic village. Not to be missed is a day hike on the island of Hoy. At the end of the trail is The Old Man of Hoy (look it up!)but you'll be oooooing and aaahhhing long before you get there. Springy peat under your feet, green pastures, incredible seacliffs and once again, just enough people to confirm that you are not lost! Pack a lunch or buy the filled rolls from the lady with the sandwich wagon at the beginning of the trail (although she may have to go down to the house for more lettuce!). Don't miss out on a bit of time down at the shoreline before returning to the ferry for the trip back to the main island. A great B&B is The Eastbank House in Kirkwall. The proprietor even played personal taxi driver for us twice and had "the lassies" do our laundry for us while we were out. If you stay there tell Malcolm I still want a job! The Orkneys felt like a secret that the rest of the world has yet to discover.

We left the Orkney Islands by way of ferry across the Pentland Firth. After deboarding at John O'Groats we caught the regularly scheduled bus for the 3 1/2 hr. ride through the Highlands to Inverness. I think we would have missed a lot had we taken the train. From the Inverness bus station it was an easy 15 min walk across the River Ness to our B&B. Chris and Val at the Mardon Guesthouse were very hospitable and attentive. We began our Highland visit with a tour of the Muir of Ord Whisky Distillery just ouside of Inverness and were back to town in time to catch up with "Davy the Ghost" in front of the tourist office for his very entertaining ghost tour. What a ham! He ends the tour at Hootnanny's, a fabulous pub with live traditional music. A good mix of tourists and locals. For a day trip to Urquhart Castle (where we saw an entire trad. scottish wedding!) and a cruise on Loch Ness we were very pleased with our choice of Jacobite Cruises. Back in Inverness, there are wonderful walking paths on both sides of the River Ness which runs through the middle of town. Don't miss the little island in the middle of the river and check out the unique benches here and there along the island path.

The highlight of our trip to Scotland was, for me, the day we spent at Culloden. The true Scottish history junkie will be itching to get out to the moor but take the time to explore inside the visitor center first. They offer a very good film on the battle and there is a well done exibition along with some impressive 18th century artifacts. I'm not embarrassed to admit that visiting Culloden Moor was a very emotional experience. It truly is hallowed ground. Quiet contemplation in front of each of the Clan stones (many with freshly laid flowers), looking to the top of the Memorial with it's inscription to the fallen Highlanders and imagining the ancient way of life that was crushed on that fateful day is sure to move all but the most hardened of hearts. I encourage all who visit to walk the battlelines. Begin at the line of red flag poles that represent the place where the Hanovarian troops were positioned. Look across the Moor to the blue line of the Highlanders. Then walk to the other side and look back across. Look at how boggy and uneven the ground is and try to imagine the physical struggle and confusion of a battle in such a setting. I was overwhelmed with a feeling of reverence and respect for the men who had died in the very field where we were standing. I do not exagerate when I say that we could very nearly feel their presence all around us.....
Scotland definately has my heart. I'm planning another trip back next year and hopfully will be buying a one way ticket in 2009!

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