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Celtic Flame Irish Dance Costumer's Message Board

Irish Dance Costumer's Message Board
Welcome to the message board for the designers and makers of Irish Dance Costumes, Irish Dancers of all ages, and others interested in Irish Dance. Please feel free to ask questions and give advice often! Check out the FAQ for these topics: Puffy Headband Instructions 4 & 5 Panel Dress Instructions and Poll Zipper Poll
FAQ Link

Subject: Did most of you purchased the embroidery machine and then learned to digitize?
Author: . [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 08:45:12am I would love to finally switch to an embroidery machine but I feel like I should learn the digitizing first and then get the machine and be ready for it. Or is it the other way around? Suggestions appreciated. Also, how do you find the expos/trade shows for embroidery machines? I searched on line and didn't come up with anything within the tri state area. Thank you in advance for any help. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
If you get the embroidery machine first you can buy stock designs and use those. If you buy the digitizing software first (and you know what hoop size you will have) you can have several designs ready to go. I started with a small machine and stock designs, then bought embird, then upgraded to Masterworks, then switched to Bernina, then upgraded machine. If you have the cash upfront I'd start with Bernina. If not Embird is a good starting point. -- sndm, Wednesday, July 23, 10:32:34am Thank you so much. I've been looking into Bernina 560 as anything beyond would be way too much for me. Would 560 be efficient with making 12-15 dresses a year? (NT) -- Is anyone using it? Thank you., Wednesday, July 23, 11:07:03am Actually I meant Bernina software. Bernina makes nice machines but I think they are excessively expensive and not the "ideal" machine for Irish dance (more inside) -- sndm, Wednesday, July 23, 11:29:45am Very helpful! Thank you so much. (NT) -- Appreciate it very much., Wednesday, July 23, 11:53:27am

Subject: Please can someone tell me the best colour crystals to use on nude fabric?
Author: Thank you! [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 07:45:33am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I would probably use Light Colorado Topaz or just normal AB. But probably a good idea to test it. -- sndm, Wednesday, July 23, 10:35:41am I used Crystal Golden Shadow, but there are a few different shades of nude. A color chart might be your best bet! AB looks nice, but reflected more pink/orange than I wanted for my project. (NT) -- --, Wednesday, July 23, 01:29:34pm If you want same color a fabric to add sparkle I would say Golden shadow or light peach Dreamtime chart has both in reg or AB , the ab may add too much color though (NT) -- mm, Thursday, July 24, 08:59:50am

Subject: For those of you with an xpanto frame (or similar 14x48) how long does it take to stitch out? Like say you have two sleeves with heavy embroidery? Roughly. Thanks!
Author: sndm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, July 22, 04:36:21pm . [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Average, 4.5-5 hours for a full hoop. I've had some take 7 hours or so, including prep work. Fabric placement, trimming appliques, etc. all takes time. The x-panto hoop only goes up to half speed as well, so keep that in mind. Wish I had space for two machines, I couldn't go back to hand guided embroidery! (NT) -- --, Tuesday, July 22, 06:27:38pm Can be many hours, just depending on number of stitches, colour changes, fabric and density of stitching required, how often bobbin needs changing, how often thread breaks, etc. etc. Too difficult to put a time on it, but 700 stitches/min max. Buy one; you'll wonder how you ever managed without one! (NT) -- !, Tuesday, July 22, 06:29:08pm Thanks guys. Hopefully getting one soon, trying to figure out how much faster I can work. Currently have apprx 11x17" hoop so much less rehooping :) -- Sndm, Tuesday, July 22, 07:03:03pm I've had a single heavily embroidererd sleeve take up to 12 hours (NT) -- x, Tuesday, July 22, 08:44:22pm

Subject: Suggestions Please
Author: Thanks! [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, July 22, 07:34:52am I have a client looking to have a new dress made for a VERY slim tween going through a growth spurt. Ideally hs doesn't want anything to bring attention to the upper bodice (drawing attention to carriage issues) and something that makes her look skinny. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Correction. - does NOT want anything that makes her look skinny (NT) -- Thanks again, Tuesday, July 22, 07:37:22am I'm quite sure I'll be flamed for this response and I do realize you've come on this board for helpful information. Having said that however, as a designer you are supposed to be the expert and you should know how to address either of these design requests. If you're a new dressmaker jumping on the bandwagon your client needs to be aware of this. Taking on a custom order under the assumption that you have the experience to make and appropriate dress for your client is not OK. (NT) -- x, Tuesday, July 22, 02:09:25pm Thank you - and yes, I agree. I wouldn't take it on if I thought I wouldn't be able to produce. Was hopeful for either reassurance I am on the right track, or perhaps a suggestion I hadn't considered. Not looking for someone else to do the work for me for nothing. Have had many clients asking for something to help slim them down, not the reverse. (NT) -- Thank you., Tuesday, July 22, 03:49:29pm

Subject: any advice for cleaning white poly shantung? updating a dress and waist seam is dirty
Author: sndm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, July 18, 12:26:56pm . [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Poly-shantung is usually washable. I would try working on the area, using a wash cloth with mild soapy water, repeat with clear water, then air dry. Repeat the process as necessary. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Monday, July 21, 07:52:24am

Subject: Taoknitter
Author: dm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, July 18, 10:39:02am Has anyone been in contact with Ann from Taoknitter? Sent her an email an no response. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
She was moving at some point this summer, and may not be back to work yet. (NT) -- --, Friday, July 18, 10:45:16am She also had 2 surgeries, the 2nd one to fix the first one! Have talked to her and she hopes to be settled in her new home and set up again by mid-August. (NT) -- whew, Tuesday, July 22, 07:16:39pm

Subject: Is there a type of satin that doesn't show water marks as much? Always had a velvet dress but want something lighter. I'm worried about satin showing every imperfection (our school dresses are like this).
Author: Any particular satin better than another? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, July 17, 03:13:24pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

Subject: Does anyone know where I can find the seven gates designs used for story book dresses? I am looking for either a book or webpage where I can see all the different styles to pick one for a dress.
Author: Thank so much [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 01:52:19pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
The seven gates designs are no longer available for purchase. There is an email address for them somewhere in the archives, but I don't believe anyone has gotten a response. (NT) -- --, Wednesday, July 16, 03:52:58pm If you Google "Seven Gates Designs, Ireland," there is still a design firm with that name in Louth Co. with a phone number listed. I don't have international calling on my cell phone, so haven't tried it. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Monday, July 21, 07:56:47am

Subject: Hey all! New here - Just wondering where one might be able to purchase a nude fabric like Celtic Star and Gavin seem to be using. Would love it for DD's next dress/my next dress project.
Author: Thanks! [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, July 11, 12:56:23am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I've bought nude satin at local fabric stores. Like Joann's -- Sndm, Sunday, July 13, 12:46:48am

Subject: Water marks out of satin?
Author: mom [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 01:39:14pm We have what I'm pretty sure are water marks on the satin skirt of my dd's dress - she doesn't eat while wearing it and usually only brings water to drink. I'm nervous about making it worse but have heard horror stories about people taking their dresses to the dry cleaners, only to have it returned worse than they left it. Has anyone had luck removing what I believe is just a mark, not a set in stain, from satin? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
You really need to check any method on an inside seam. There are many fabric types of satin and they will react differently. Some methods would be: use a baby wipe, a damp cloth, or drycleaner solution from the grocery store. (NT) -- check first, Wednesday, July 09, 06:08:39pm

Subject: Are there different types of sequin fabric? I seem to recall a mention of ones that are tiered versus ones that lay flat, specifically in regard to how they may (or not) snag.
Author: buyer, not DM [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 10:51:24am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Many types of sequins sewn on many types of backing. Yes, the types that are sewn in at least three spots per sequin are most likely going to stay put and not snag. There are also many sizes and layout patterns. They will all snag to some degree. I think this is why so many people prefer to add crystals instead of using sequin fabrics. (NT) -- just thoughts, Wednesday, July 09, 06:12:24pm flat ones snag also. cover with tulle (NT) -- that will help., Saturday, July 12, 08:37:26pm

Subject: sleeve cap: Does anyone have a photo of the feis dress pattern sleeve? I am experimenting with different sleeve shapes to see what works best for lift. I heard the pattern was decent for that. Just curious of their shape. THANKS!
Author: playing with sleeves [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 07:40:19am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
What do you mean by "lift?" (NT) -- , Wednesday, July 02, 05:37:33pm* Like when the girls lift their arms when they are dancing in a team. -- sleeves, Thursday, July 03, 11:20:09am It isn't the sleeve that gives movement, it is the shape and placement of the arm hole. The FD pattern as zero ease in the sleeve cap because it is super easy to add puff but a real PITA to take it out. The size and shape of the sleeve cap relates to the shape and distribution of the armhole. (NT) -- Susan, Thursday, July 03, 02:55:36pm Yup-this is true. I still add a little gusset in the arm pit area of the sleeve for team dresses. (NT) -- Sleeves are a pain., Friday, July 04, 04:57:29pm Thanks for the thoughts! I have found that the armhole raised definitely helps, but there is also a lot to be said about the cap of the sleeve. The flatter the overall shape of the pattern is at the top of the pattern the higher the arm can be raised, as seen in more vintage patterns. I was curious how flat the feis dress pattern cap was. -- sleeves, Tuesday, July 08, 10:26:59am compared to normal patterns, they are pretty flat. (NT) -- ., Thursday, July 10, 03:07:37pm

Subject: My friend just received her DD Gavin & surprise it doesn't fit. Darts were put in at the chest & were NOT needed so it sticks across the chest.
Author: Is it safe just to take them out? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Monday, June 30, 06:44:32am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
If you remove darts then the extra fabric length along the side seam needs to go somewhere. You would need to also adjust the side seam up into the sleeve or down to the skirt. Easier into the sleeve if it fits.If she is old enough, some dancers will wear a padded bra just for a quick fix. (NT) -- sad but true, Monday, June 30, 01:39:17pm We joked about that but she only 9. (NT) -- Thanks-OP, Monday, June 30, 02:30:12pm You should also make sure the darts aren't clipped before taking them out, I'm not sure what Gavin's construction is like, but that could be a problem. I'm surprised she has bust darts if they knew she was 9, seems like a strange pattern choice. (NT) -- good luck!, Monday, June 30, 08:22:03pm That's what I thought as well. I was afraid I would be opening Pandora's box by doing this one thing. (NT) -- OP, Tuesday, July 01, 02:22:16am did you contact gavin? (NT) -- best to consult with original dm, Tuesday, July 01, 11:10:12pm

Subject: Has anyone tried using Value Bright crystals? This is the link to the site:
Author: ? (tia) [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, June 26, 12:26:46pm http://www.rhinestonebiz.com/c-472-value-bright-crystal-components.aspx Their own ad copy seems less that enthusiastic: "Our research has found that both amateur and professional designers see the value provided by these crystal components." [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I wouldn't put them on a dress. I used their ab for some buckles and they're ok, not fantastic. The clear might be better. Also, pretty sure emerald key uses their large stones on their tiaras and buckles -- Sndm, Thursday, June 26, 04:09:38pm

Subject: I'm wondering how other dress makers charge for applying crystals. Per number of crystals, one solid fee?
Author: Thank you [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, June 25, 04:02:03am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Hourly fee plus the cost of crystals (NT) -- ., Wednesday, June 25, 07:51:37am ditto (NT) -- bg, Wednesday, June 25, 08:49:17am 25 cents/stone + cost of stones. Sometimes I do hourly instead, usually comes about to the same -- sndm, Wednesday, June 25, 11:48:59am Even for the ss20-30? I recently "blinged" a dress with 1100 of those stones, that would be $275 just for the labor? (NT) -- ?, Thursday, June 26, 09:51:17pm Then I would charge by the hour to keep cost down -- Sndm, Sunday, July 06, 10:02:47pm What would be fair for an hourly fee? The same as alterations? (NT) -- op, Wednesday, June 25, 06:06:08pm I typically charge $20/hr no matter what it is. I figure I shouldn't charge less to do something less fun when I could be making dresses. If people don't like that they can go to someone with fewer skills ;) -- Sndm, Wednesday, June 25, 11:07:40pm That's the amount I was thinking as well. (NT) -- Thank you, Thursday, June 26, 01:18:48am

Subject: Are mandarin collars still "in"?
Author: Are dancers still requesting them on new dresses? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, June 22, 03:18:21pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Yes (NT) -- x, Sunday, June 22, 05:14:58pm Not on all dresses, so you can choose! (NT) -- !, Monday, June 23, 03:34:33pm Yes they are very much in still. But with that said, lots of different things are in, so don't feel like they are required for you. (NT) -- mom, Wednesday, July 16, 08:06:40pm

Subject: Since Rachel Franzen's ID Fabrics shop is no longer in existence, does anyone know a good source for purple micro velvet? Also, since I haven't purchased it in quite awhile, is micro velvet 100% polyester or is it a blend and is it the same thing as Triple Velvet since that is all I am finding in a non stretch non crushing velvet.
Author: Pennie in Michigan [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, June 22, 02:20:08pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Cheapfabrics.co.uk has a few brighter colors, not quite as bright as pictured, but nice. Triple velvet is different, as far as I know, longer pile/crushes. I use stretch velvet when I can't find a micro velvet in the right color. It comes in great colors! (NT) -- --, Sunday, June 22, 04:03:56pm Thanks for the link to the online source...I appreciate that! Do you usually serge a cotton lining fabric and the velvet together so you don't have to deal too much with the stretch? (NT) -- me again, Sunday, June 22, 08:12:27pm I use woven cotton iron on interfacing, I used to purchase it from Joann's with a coupon, but WAWAK carries a wider width at a comparable price per square inch. (NT) -- --, Monday, June 23, 07:51:16am Thanks! (NT) -- me again, Monday, June 23, 01:18:12pm Microvelvet doesn't stretch so no need to serge to a lining fabric (NT) -- ., Monday, June 23, 03:35:48pm I found a very pretty purple micro velvet at NY Elegant in NYC last summer. It's in the middle of the block on W 40th, near Parsons, for those of you heading to the North American Championships. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Wednesday, June 25, 11:30:03am NY Elegant will send swatches if you ask. Try calling earlier in the morning (NT) -- http://www.nyelegant.com/, Thursday, June 26, 12:34:46pm http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/product-micro-velvet/product-group-velvet/use-apparel/type-fabric/fairvel-regal-purple-micro-velvet-fabric-.htm (NT) -- hth, Thursday, June 26, 12:39:13pm

Subject: pattern drafting software
Author: SNDM [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, June 20, 12:55:20pm Do any of you use pattern drafting software? I guess just for the bodice and sleeves. Thinking I could produce dresses faster if I wasn't constantly tweaking bad patterns. What do you use? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
This would definitely be worth finding out about. Please share what you find out. I didn't know there was such a thing out there :)) (NT) -- learn something new everyday!, Friday, June 20, 10:21:17pm There are a few threads about this in the archives, responses vary, but most seem to ultimately prefer drafting from sloper patterns. Butterick/Mccalls has an ok starting point, and Feisdresses has a great one. (NT) -- Good luck!, Saturday, June 21, 09:15:40am I agree, however Feisdresses is the website for used dresses. Feisdress.com is where to find the dress pattern. (NT) -- hth, Saturday, June 21, 11:55:01am

Subject: Buying crystals in NYC
Author: Thanks [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 03:31:13am Is there anywhere I could purchase a gross or two of Swarovski AB crystals in New York? Will be there just before NANs. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I think it is called M&J Trim. Large selection. (NT) -- ., Wednesday, June 18, 07:42:04am Metro Creations, 213 W. 40th St. (NT) -- Enjoy, Thursday, June 26, 12:43:06pm

Subject: Has anyone created a wholesale account directly with Swarovski? Wondering if it may be worth doing.
Author: bling bling [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, June 12, 10:04:44am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I was also wondering about that. If it minimum orders are very high (1000+), perhaps people could share accounts? (NT) -- would be nice to cut out the middle man, Thursday, June 12, 01:27:18pm I'd be intetested for sure. (NT) -- x, Thursday, June 12, 05:20:10pm I tried a few years ago but they'll not do it. (NT) -- they only work with a few companies. might be different now, Thursday, June 12, 05:46:37pm Ok, I'll see what I can find out and update when I hear back :) (NT) -- worth a try, Friday, June 13, 11:56:40am I know Eire Design does, and so does Celtic Star (NT) -- Maybe thats why CS can put so many diamonds on their dresses, Saturday, June 14, 12:51:01pm They only deal with the very big companies like Eire Designs not individual home based (NT) -- I enquired, Sunday, June 15, 03:52:57pm I know someone who has created a wholesale account with Dreamtime Creations, but not directly with Swarovski. (NT) -- ~Kris, Sunday, June 15, 07:25:44pm anyone can create a wholesale acct with dreamtime etc you just give your wholesale number its very different than dealing directly with Swarovski (NT) -- mm, Sunday, June 15, 11:01:11pm Haven't heard back from Swarovski as of yet, but did find this out from someone who had one through a BNDM. You need to be able to set up a credit account with a huge minumum of $20,000. That was the cost years ago so it may or may not have gone up. (NT) -- bling bling, Monday, June 16, 05:26:57pm And also contacted Dreamtime Creations and it appears to be rather easy as posted above :) You just need to supply some business docs and they give you two types of wholesale order discounts. Heard back right away, no hassle at all and easy to navigate. Just typed wholesale into the seach at the top of their page. (NT) -- bling bling, Monday, June 16, 05:30:36pm

Subject: Need a dressmaker to alter/fix two dresses before NAN's. Located in Westchester, NY, but would drive to NYC, northern NJ, or CT.
Author: Help? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, June 10, 02:59:29pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

Subject: Best material to use for drop-waisted 3 panel dress? My young dancer still has a bit if a tummy , and I'm not sure satin would be very flattering . Any other materials to try?
Author: - [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Monday, May 26, 07:35:02pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
The traditional fabric is gabardine. Velvet would also work. You could use any fabric just as long as you interface and/or line it to make the panels stiff enough. To camouflage "toddler tummy" in a drop-waisted dress, use vertical or diagonal design elements (piecing, applique or embroidery) on the bottom half of the bodice. (NT) -- Draw your design on DD's actual silhouhette to see if it flatters., Thursday, May 29, 05:22:33pm Because velvet is a matte fabric, it hides many imperfections. As an adult, I look much thinner in my dress with a velvet bodice. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Monday, June 02, 08:33:36am Poly poplin is wonderful but color wise it is at the mercy of whatever is in fashion for weddings. Great to work with and wears forever (NT) -- Btdt, Thursday, July 03, 03:48:39pm

Subject: New business
Author: X [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Saturday, May 24, 10:17:50am Hi there, I would really love some advice. I am looking To start up a costume business. Small scale. I would really like some advice on appropriate machinery. Computerised or where I would gain advice in this department Many thanks. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
If you are just starting to make these costumes, I would wait on investing in a digitized machine. Getting a well fit dress is probably the most difficult part of these costumes. Work on the fit first then move on to the expensive machine. Many dm's make beautiful dresses without digitized embroidery. (NT) -- good luck, Monday, May 26, 09:13:45pm My advice would be to make at least 10 off the rack dresses, see if you can sell them (but don't reckon on higher prices till you can make them fit well and look right). Work out your costs and timings per dress and see if you can make it profitable. Then decide if you want to really take the business further. (NT) -- It is much harder than it appears, Tuesday, May 27, 05:27:12am

Subject: Using Tagaderm (transparent high gloss surgical wound covering) on bodice
Author: Thanks [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 11:27:38am I recall a while ago there were a number of ladies from Australia that swore by Tagaderm over sewn sequin. I'm wondering how well does it hold up, and how often you need to replace? Does it affect the finish of the sequins? Also, I believe many used it at the upper back bodice (to spare wigs from fraying), as well as the inner seams of the sleeves and the side seams on the bodice. Anywhere else you have used it? I would really appreciate if anyone who has used tagaderm might share their experience? Thank You [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I have used Tegaderm on several dresses. I used it in the areas you mentioned, just where the sequins may rub on another more delicate part of the dress. I have never had to replace it so I don't know how it may affect the sequins if removed. I put it on the brand new dress and sell the dress with it still in place. It has never lifted or curled on the edges so I have had no reason to remove it. More.. -- Aussie Mum, Tuesday, May 20, 05:49:51pm

Subject: Which bodice pattern do feel gives a better fit for a teen? One that is fitted by darting or a princess seam?
Author: ty [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Monday, May 19, 06:54:22am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
They both can achieve a great fit. However many prefer the darts for ease in altering down the road. Although the priness seams can be altered, I find the "average" mom doesn't quite know what to do with it. (NT) -- my thoughts, Monday, May 19, 12:08:43pm Also depends on the sizing. I'm very busty and prefer princess seams, but darts look fine on a smaller bust size. (NT) -- mp, Thursday, May 22, 08:08:06am My DD is tiny and busty (bra size 28 D) I could not get a darted bodice to fit, even with an extra side bust dart - she told me my best attempt looked like Madonna's cone bra costume. Adjusting a princess seam bodice was much easier and gave a much smoother bodice fit. (NT) -- It would be easier if they stayed little girls, Tuesday, May 27, 12:51:37pm Anything under a c-cup is fine with darts (imho), but large c-cups, and d+ look much smoother with princess seams! (NT) -- --, Tuesday, May 27, 12:54:57pm

Subject: Advice on how to be a good customer!
Author: Senior Lady [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, May 15, 12:05:50pm So, I'm hoping for some advice some the dressmakers out there and happy customers out there! I'm about to order my first custom solo dress - I'm in my 20s and have never had a new dress. Since this will likely be my last, I decided it's time for something special! I certainly have ideas about what I'd like to see - but I'm curious how much is too much input from a customer? Is it standard to request to see a final sketch or design? I truly don't want to be a pain as a customer but I'm nervous about the process having never gone through it before! Would love to hear advice! Tips on what to avoid saying or doing would be helpful too. :) Thanks!! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Tell your dressmaker ...(more inside) -- Trust me, we know you fork out a lot of $, but we make the hours. (Hope this helps.), Thursday, May 15, 01:23:53pm communication is key---the more information on what you'd like--the better. MORE -- sndm, Friday, May 16, 07:14:52am You need to acknowledge that every dressmaker is different. Just be clear up front what level of communication you want. I request that my client's give me all of their wants and don't wants up front and I take it from there. I will then show them a pic of the dress under construction. I then allow minor changes, but otherwise, that is their dress. This has worked for all but two of my many clients. -- ds, Friday, May 16, 10:46:31pm These are all great tips - thank you! I'd never bug a dressmaker daily about progress, but am glad to hear design input is acceptable from most designers! Wish I could order a dozen dresses, all the SNDMs I've looked at or talked to are fantastic! (NT) -- OP, Tuesday, May 20, 10:00:11am

Subject: Auto applique on Bernina V6 question.
Author: Is this possible? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, May 15, 11:01:39am When using bernina v6 software I've tried using the auto applique button on the left. All is great, I see my placement line, cutting line and cover stitch. My problem is, if I want to do multiple appliques, whether they be the same or different patterns, I can't ungroup the items to do all the placement lines first, followed by the cutting line and so on. Is there any way to unlock these or am I destined to manually doing the step by step process, which isn't a big deal, but would be nice for a one stop shop :) Appreciate any feedback given. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
After you highlight the object, there is a break apart function off to the side. It looks sort of like a shaking ball. Sometimes you have to highlight and hit the function more than once. Be aware, though, that sometimes the break apart function can change some of the objects when separated. Just check things. (NT) -- AnnD, Thursday, May 15, 04:39:36pm Fantastic! Thanks you for this, didn't even think to try that funtion! Right in front of me.....thanks for your time in replying. (NT) -- :o), Friday, May 16, 08:34:51am You are welcome! (NT) -- AnnD, Saturday, May 17, 08:50:50pm

Subject: Is there anyone that makes doll dresses to match a solo?
Author: If so, please email me! [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, May 13, 11:50:35am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Did you find someone? (NT) -- , Wednesday, May 14, 05:58:27pm* No, no response. (NT) -- op, Wednesday, May 14, 11:45:00pm Thanks girls, I did get some good leads and info! Thanks again! (NT) -- op, Thursday, May 15, 11:41:10pm

Subject: Opinions needed :) Has anyone used poly-poplin on a dress? Considering it for a full dress as it's a little lighter than gaberdine and interfacing could be used to add a bit more body. Looking for a nice bright red that's not velvet and the twinkle satin isn't bright enough.
Author: Thanks! [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, May 13, 08:14:47am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I would use the wrong side of a poly-duponi. It comes in really vibrant colors, lightweight, and (imho) has a nice sheen without being too shiny. (NT) -- Joanns, SY fabrics, etc., Tuesday, May 13, 02:30:31pm Thank you, I'll have a look at it. (NT) -- ::)), Wednesday, May 14, 09:09:34am

Subject: Hi ladies. I have mislaid my Pfaff 4D embroidery communication CD, recently had a new computer so need to reload it, any ideas as to where to find a replacement?
Author: Thx [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 02:10:03pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Try your dealer where you bought the machine, or Pfaff (NT) -- ?, Tuesday, May 06, 06:02:19pm

Subject: Any suggestions on crystal color to match with small gold sequin fabric? Or something to get me headed in the right direction? Not sure what crystal colors to even start considering...
Author: thanks [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 12:14:58pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Light Topaz or Sunflower, depending on the gold colour. Try Dreamtime Creations, where you can search by colour (NT) -- ., Tuesday, May 06, 06:03:47pm Aurum or Golden Shadow could work too. Link inside to all the gold options. -- ~Kris, Wednesday, May 07, 09:54:50am

Subject: Looking for opinions on upgrading software. What are your thoughts on Wilcom or Forte? I have a big machine and keeping busy.
Author: pros and cons [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Saturday, May 03, 12:12:14pm I currently us Bernina V6. Is it worth considering an upgrade to make any of the digitizing process a little more time efficient? Welcome any thoughts :-) [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Bernina is made by Wilcom. I learned to use my commercial machine using the Wilcom software at the same time I was using the Bernina. I had also been considering the upgrade, but I never found that the Wilcom did anything better or different than my Bernina. The only thing that would make any digitizing software more efficient would be an auto-digitize function that was worth anything. Until then, good digitizing takes manual control which simply takes time. (NT) -- not worth the extra money, Saturday, May 03, 01:50:54pm And the Forte does not even compare. (NT) -- nope, Sunday, May 04, 01:05:30am This is very helpful, thank you. Has anyone used Punto? I believe Gavins team uses it, anyone have thoughts there? (NT) -- pros and cons, Sunday, May 04, 09:48:33am I switched from Forte to Artista Designer Plus 6---no comparison, Bernina is by far quicker, easier, etc... (NT) -- bg, Sunday, May 04, 12:01:48pm THANK'S LADIES (NT) -- :), Wednesday, May 07, 08:51:18am Forget Forte. I have it and it is out dated. (NT) -- Go with something else., Wednesday, June 11, 07:57:31pm

Subject: What is the best way to get lipstick out if white satin. Twinkle satin
Author: Mom [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, April 27, 01:07:18pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I've used baby wipes or a small bit of oxy clean with a slightly damp cloth. (NT) -- :), Monday, April 28, 12:38:00pm If you can get cheap baby wipes that contain alcohol I've had success with those. The alcohol apparently helps break down the oil in the lipstick. (NT) -- Aussie mum, Tuesday, April 29, 06:18:34am I use rubbing alcohol. Test first, and then I put a towel under the area and start dabbing at it with q-tips. Have to admit once I poured tiny bits directly over the spot and it came out faster! (NT) -- *, Tuesday, April 29, 04:47:53pm*

Subject: Hoping for feedback from those of you that may have used Swarovski zippers. Have you had any complaints from clients about how well they work/ hold up over time?
Author: Thanks [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, April 25, 11:20:17am I'm making my daughter's dress and was considering using one, but not if they are a pain to open and close, or separate under tension. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I am also curious. With trend towards interesting back designs on dresses, I've been thinking that a rhinestone zipper would be pretty but also worry about longevity. I'd give it a shot my own kid, but not an a random client! (NT) -- --, Friday, April 25, 01:36:11pm I used one and liked it. It does require more care to close. When it was time to sell the dress, I decided to replace it with a common zipper. I may use the old one in an upcoming dress design. It is perfect for designs right now due to the trend toward smaller, lower (NT) -- shawls, Friday, April 25, 03:25:38pm You'd get a lot more bling for your money if you spent the extra cost on big crystals instead! (NT) -- Small zip crystals not worth the cost!, Friday, April 25, 07:48:54pm DD tried on a used dress with one of these zippers. (NT) -- Very hard to zip., Sunday, April 27, 12:16:05pm Considering the minimal amount of time a dancer spends with their back to the audience, I'd be more inclined to spend the extra on individual crystals than dealing with the fuss of a fancy zip. (NT) -- just me though., Monday, April 28, 12:40:19pm

Subject: Seven Gates Designs
Author: Charmaine [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, April 25, 02:42:31am Hi Everyone I am not a dressmaker but am trying to come up with a design for a potential new school dress. I want something traditional and love my old dresses based on Seven Gates designs. I have hunted high and low online and cannot find any sign of the book. Would anyone have a copy I could purchase? Thanks [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Or 2? I'd love one as well (NT) -- Design shopper, Friday, April 25, 03:27:23pm Would also be prepared to pay for a photocopy as well. Don't need the original, I'm sure they are as precious as gemstones! (NT) -- Charmaine, Sunday, April 27, 06:53:11am The last time I searched for a copy, none of the old Seven Gates email accounts worked. There is still a Seven Gates Graphic Design firm located in Drogheda Co, Louth Ireland. If you search you can find phone number & address info only (more inside) -- LynnToledo, Monday, April 28, 09:58:38am I'm wondering if a certain BNDM bought the designs since he is using them on dresses for one MWR school in the US (NT) -- ?, Saturday, May 03, 09:12:27am Hard to say, a lot of the BNDM used them back in the day, they may have bought long term use rights at the time? (NT) -- --, Sunday, May 04, 09:29:14am I don't think the BNDM using them now was making dresses back in the day of the 7 Gates dresses. (NT) -- .., Sunday, May 04, 06:44:53pm But are they actually using the SEven Gates designs, or just something similar to those designs? I didn't think they were identical (NT) -- but maybe I'm wrong., Monday, May 05, 10:45:26pm If it is an established school, they probably bought the rights to the design years ago. (NT) -- , Monday, May 05, 09:10:06am*

Subject: Embroidery File Conversion
Author: Thank You [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, April 22, 09:04:14am Wondering if anyone might have embroidery software that could open a .vip or .vp3 file and save a version for me into .dst format? When it rains, it pours - both my sewing/embroidery machine AND My laptop died, and I need the .dst file asap. for a local embroidery company. If you know of an online business that could help me out quickly, I would really appreciate it. Many thanks for any help or suggestions you could share. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I also should mention I expect to pay a fee to convert the file to anyone who can help me out. I know how expensive the software is and would not think of taking advantage of anyone kind enough to help me. (NT) -- Thank You, Tuesday, April 22, 09:58:41am I can try email me jen dot blackerby at gmail dot com (NT) -- sndm, Tuesday, April 22, 11:04:33am If you still need help, I can convert for you. taoknitterATgmailDOTcom (NT) -- Ann, Tuesday, April 22, 12:20:46pm

Subject: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154041745400517&set=o.46957326505&type=1&ref=nf...Wondering what the fringed fabric would be called and where to find it... love the look and would love to have a go at updating my daughter's skirt with fabric like this
Author: fringey organza? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, April 16, 12:08:50pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I thought it looked the same as the red in Codie Shiels last dress. It almost looked like rectangle strips/petals (NT) -- sndm, Wednesday, April 16, 05:01:43pm Looks like it might be this. (NT) -- spandexdepot.com/stores/fringe-fabrics-with-sequins-c-298.html, Monday, April 21, 10:36:21pm I also saw the fabric in London and it was featured on the last episode of Jigs & Wigs as SS worked with it. The Spandex fringe is not the look. As pp stated, it is chiffon or some other light weight fabric cut into strips about 3 to 4" wide. Then the strips are cut � of the way up into fringes a bit under an inch wide (NT) -- http://www.diddlyi.com/2014/04/ep-6-jigs-wigs/, Wednesday, April 23, 08:22:28am Saw it up close on Gavin's stand at worlds. It's a fabric made of strips of red chiffon attached to a base. The strips are not sealed in any way though, so up close you could see they were already starting to fray. Not sure it would be a great option in the long term (NT) -- :-S, Tuesday, April 22, 12:18:40am

Subject: Teal premier velvet?
Author: -- [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, April 15, 10:33:17am Does anyone have a 2-3 yard piece of Joann's premier velvet in the teal/iridescent color they might be willing to part with? I love the color, but don't have enough. It seems to be discontinued. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

Subject: skirt stiffener
Author: sndm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Monday, April 14, 06:09:56pm what type of skirt stiffener do you use? Just thinking about trying something different. Thanks! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Things have changed so much from the old days. What do you use now? (NT) -- , Tuesday, April 15, 02:02:14am* I've been using Pellon. maybe 70? I can't seem to find Vilene in the US (NT) -- author, Tuesday, April 15, 12:06:21pm

Subject: western region costume rules
Author: sndm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Saturday, April 12, 06:48:48pm Can anyone tell me if the Western region has any different costume rules than CLRG in general? I'm familiar with Mid America's u8/u9 no bling rules and have heard rumors that it may be adopted in Western region. Does anybody know anything about this? Thanks! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I, too have heard rumors this rule may be adopted. Have you posted to the WR board? -- OR the IDTANA of the WR? (links inside), Wednesday, April 23, 03:10:14pm I did post on the Western region voy and got one reply from a parent who has heard nothing of this. So if it does happen I'd guess its a few years out?? -- OP, Friday, April 25, 10:07:14am MWR didn't give much lead time. That added to the bumpy roll-out. There are still very vocal opponents to this rule, some of them TCs. It will be interesting to see how things evolve (NT) -- ., Friday, April 25, 03:30:35pm

Subject: I'm starting to get requests from clients for "Tutu" skirts like Elevation's. I haven't seen these up close. I do know they make small pleats in the tulle. Does anyone know any specifics? How many layers of tulle do they use? What grade of tulle? Also, is it attached to the skirt base in the same manner that one would attach a "skater" style skirt, or your basic gathered or pleated skirt?
Author: thanks, ladies! [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, April 10, 10:29:52am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Lots of dressmakers havew been making tutu skirts for a while. Perhaps the best solution would be to go to a feis and look for yourself? (NT) -- And enjoy the dancing too!, Thursday, April 10, 01:45:29pm I was at two feises in March and looked around but couldn't find one that I could examine up close. Now I won't be at a feis again until May, and I've got a client coming on Saturday. I always try to do my homework before asking for help. (NT) -- OP, Thursday, April 10, 05:39:43pm Yes, you should use the same base as the skater skirts. The tulle needs to be the "crisp" kind or tutu net. The soft kind will float too much. I like 4 layers and a satin ruffle underneath. gather all four layers together with extra length and then cut after constructed. Pressing should give crisp gathers when cool. (NT) -- made some, Thursday, April 10, 06:15:17pm Thank you! That is exactly what I needed. At least now I can meet with the new client and get some design ideas rolling. Then hopefully I will find a BNDM tutu dress at the feis in May that I can examine in detail. (NT) -- OP, Friday, April 11, 12:01:56pm I don't like the dress net as it's to stiff. I like the bridal tulle. Comes in 3mtrs wide so can work out not to bad in cost. I use about x3 double layers on a normal base and a frill. (NT) -- DM, Sunday, April 13, 05:09:00pm There are so many different types of net and tulle. You really need to search for one of the right stiffness (not stiff, but not flimsy either) and which isn't going to tear easily either. I find skirts look much better if each layer is added separately, rather than gathering all the layers together. (NT) -- Well worth the extra effort., Sunday, April 13, 05:17:28pm working on updating a skirt. I've added the tulle pretty much as explained here, but am having some difficulty with the skirt fabric. (Just trying to give shape to a too soft skirt, not replacing the skirt) The skirt measures 2 1/5 times the bodice. It just seems like too many gathers. Is this a good ratio or do I need to eliinate some of this fabric? (NT) -- a dm, Friday, April 18, 06:06:51pm eliminate (NT) -- me again, Friday, April 18, 06:07:38pm*

Subject: Hi. I cannot work out how to request membership to the yahoo ID dressmaking forum. Can someone help please ?
Author: Dm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, April 09, 03:35:53pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Inside... -- *, Wednesday, April 09, 07:49:11pm*

Subject: New skirt design
Author: Annemarie Clarke (Curious) [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, April 03, 04:32:07pm My daughters dance dress is beautiful but as she has matured this last year the skirt does not look right . Does anyone in Ireland design and make new skirts? Was a very expensive dress 2 years ago, and Worth making the change. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
If possible, I would check with the orignal dressmaker. They may even have leftover fabrics from before. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Tuesday, April 08, 07:40:48am

Subject: Anyone from London on this board?
Author: shopping [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, April 02, 10:12:34pm Hi everyone, I will be in London for eight days and was wondering if anyone would recommend a fabric store there. I am particularly looking for a blue twinkle satin that I had no luck to get in US. Thanks. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Try Borovicks on Berwick Street, or easier would be White Lodge they have it and will mail it to you. (NT) -- DM, Friday, April 04, 01:45:16am Thank you (NT) -- ., Friday, April 04, 05:35:51am Not sure if you are there at the mo, but go to Goldhawk rd. There are loads of small fabric shops. There is one that has a huge range of twinkle. Sorry I can't remeber the name as I just work my way down the street but it is across from A1 fabrics. (NT) -- Hope it's a help., Sunday, April 13, 05:07:11pm Wow. Just came back from there. Got the blue and lime that I needed. One fabric store send me there. (NT) -- Thank you!, Wednesday, April 16, 12:45:35pm

Subject: Stones/Beads/Notions/Trims

Author:
Troy Collett
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: Monday, March 31, 10:04:57am

Hello to all the wonderful makers on the IDC's Message Board

I would like to speak with any interested parties regarding their stoning, notions, embellishments, and trim situation.

We distribute/wholesale all kinds of wonderful items for dance wear makers. I have a history in custom dance wear making/manufacturing, so I have a great understanding of your processes, wants, and needs. I am also a great resource for sourcing materials & fabrics (that we don't sell).

I would appreciate the opportunity to earn some of your business if anyone is interested in arranging a conversation.

Please take a look at our website and some of the various products we can offer. www.dreamtimecreations.com

We would love to get you started in a wholesale relationship. We know that our pricing, selection, and order execution are second to none. We have great customers all over the world, so international shipping/customs is NOT a problem.

Thank you very much.

Troy Collett
Representative, Dreamtime Creations
p: 239.214.1695
e: tcollett@dreamtimecreations.com
w: www.dreamtimecreations.com

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]

Subject: What sized rhinestones are used for socks?
Author: TY [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 11:01:11am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I use the 20ss size (NT) -- ~Kris, Wednesday, March 26, 07:43:56pm Thank you!! (NT) -- :), Thursday, March 27, 06:40:38am I second the SS20 and I use AB as I think they shine more IMHO (NT) -- Aus Mum, Saturday, April 05, 01:38:20am

Subject: Irish Appliques
Author: Joyce Flanagan (sad) [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, March 21, 10:00:38am Making an Irish Solo Dress for my granddaughter and am trying to find the Irish Appliques. Can you help me? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Perhaps try http://taoknitterarts.com/ Great quality and very helpful. (NT) -- :), Friday, March 21, 10:05:19am

Subject: Rude thoughtless inconsiderate people..
Author: don't get it [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, March 16, 03:07:06pm Is it becoming the norm in this society to be like this? You hear complaints about dressmakers not responding to customers, but what about the reverse? How many times a week I get emails about ordering a dress, a design is made, time spent on emails, scanning, fabric hunting, etc. Then nothing. No, thanks, but no thanks, I am not interested anymore, nothing. Im so tired of being lied to, and jerked around. Please, don't treat us like this. I have bills to pay, and waiting around for someone that has no intention of ordering, and just wasting my time is not appreciated at all. Get some manners and respect. Just venting. I feel better now. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Never, EVER send a sketch/hunt for fabrics/etc. until the customer has paid the deposit. Give them a quote based on their ideas, let them know what your schedule looks like, that sort of thing. Then book the dress, or send them on their way. It's frustrating to deal with the wishy-washy people, but it's part of the job (gotta love customer service!). (NT) -- good luck!, Sunday, March 16, 03:20:26pm When a potential customer emails me inquiring about a custom dress I direct them to my website where I have ordering information. I require a deposit to hold their time slot and do not do any work until then. (NT) -- sequin queen, Sunday, March 16, 04:33:51pm That's exactly why I'm switching to off the racks. Tired of the picky customers and being let down. Of course the majority are lovely, but it's the bad ones I remember (NT) -- ., Sunday, March 16, 05:47:10pm Same here---I never send a design, search for fabrics, etc until I receive the deposit. (NT) -- bg, Tuesday, March 18, 03:53:41pm

Subject: need a dress fixed in East London - tailor suggestions?

Author:
kathy
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: Sunday, March 16, 05:34:30am

The skirt on my daughter's dress was botched by a local tailor and I really need someone to fix it this week (feis next Sunday). We are in Leyton, East London. Does anyone have a suggestion for a tailor or dressmaker who could help on short notice? Skirt is off center and slightly skewed...
Thanks you for any suggestions.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]

Subject: Shipping to Ireland.
Author: Jola [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Saturday, March 15, 12:54:00pm Hello ladies. Could a buyer from Ireland pay for a dress from USA through PayPal? The buyer is on vacation at the moment so I am just trying to figure the easiest way. Also, what is the best way to ship the dress to Ireland? PS. I am a little suspicious about this, the buyer is too eager to buy the dress. Not asking any questions about it and agreeing on a price without negotiating. She said she is away on vacation now and will talk to me next week. Scam? Could I be scammed through PayPal? Thank you for any advice. Jola [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Hi. The only scam I am aware of with Paypal is that they can open a dispute and claim the money back through the Paypal promise, I personally have not had a problem, some buyer don't ask questions, they just pay up and don't even mail to say its arrived! (NT) -- dm, Saturday, March 15, 01:33:21pm Thank you (NT) -- Jola, Saturday, March 15, 04:36:50pm I would get info about the buyer - e.g., what is dancer's name? school? TC's name? That way you can look up dancer in feis results, and verify that there is such a person. (NT) -- hth, Tuesday, March 18, 09:00:04am Great idea. (NT) -- Thx, Tuesday, March 18, 11:19:26am To answer your first question. Yes, they can pay by paypal from anywhere and in any currency. Just be aware that if they pay by credit card you will be chared I think 3.5% in fees. Most scammers use Western Union, so via paypal you should be fine as paypal is pretty secure in that respect except for the dreaded disputed payment. Could you ship the dress to them whilst they are still in the US? (NT) -- -, Wednesday, March 19, 01:13:09am Thanks. The payment came without my requesting it, which i didn't know that could happen. I called PayPal just to make sure. Every thing is OK. It is the shipping that shocked me, UPS wanted $260!? Ended up sending through the Post Office and crossing my fingers that it will get there. (NT) -- another experience, never again shipping overseas though., Wednesday, March 19, 12:46:44pm Yes, anyone with your email address can send you money via paypal, even if you don't have a paypal account. For future sales, you do not have to accept the payment, you can reject the payment or refund it and it will be sent back to the sender. Post office will be fine, I have send all of my dd's used dresses overseas and they all make it, only use the post office as it's the cheapest way. (NT) -- -, Wednesday, March 19, 03:45:02pm Purchase insurance for the full value of the sale and REQUIRE A SIGNATURE upon receipt to avoid a claim against non-delivery. USPS is the way to go. Wrap the dress in plastic. Put an invoice in the box in case the mailing label is damaged. On customs forms list the dress as (NT) -- Used, Thursday, April 10, 11:57:01am

Subject: I came across this clip on youtube re fitting issues on a solo. Can you please share your thoughts on the upper chest problem, too big or too small?
Author: dm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPgtlEPUHVQ [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Saturday, March 15, 05:06:29am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
The front chest is OK. It is the sleeve/armcycle that is a problem. Not enough cap on a sleeve and possibly armcycle and sleeve too narrow. Hip needs to be bigger so the dress would not bunch up. (NT) -- jmo, Saturday, March 15, 07:27:30am Dress just doesn't fit anywhere at all. Upper bodice front too tight, sleeves too narrow, sleeve cap far too small, waist seam too small, waist too big, etc. Better to just get a new one! (NT) -- ., Saturday, March 15, 09:39:21pm Upper chest is actually too big-- -- HTH, Monday, March 24, 06:32:00pm I agree with this assessment. (NT) -- ., Tuesday, March 25, 08:46:17am How can it be pulling and restrictive if its too all? I don't get it ? Sm (NT) -- Sm, Sunday, March 30, 04:24:53pm All? Should read big..... Sorry! (NT) -- Sm, Sunday, March 30, 04:26:17pm It looks as if the bust area may be too tight, and the upper chest is too wide. The tightness in the sleeve is also causing pulling. (NT) -- ., Monday, March 31, 10:29:45pm

Subject: Patterns
Author: Isabel Campbell (isabel14@blueyonder.co.uk) [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, March 14, 12:06:56pm Hi there Been having a clear out and have come across some patterns for traditional Irish Dancing Costumes. Some pieces are from Irish Threads and others I made for my own use. If anyone would be interested in these please get in touch. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

Subject: I noticed under some popping threads on a Gavin the there is a paper under the embroidery.
Author: Is that stabilzer? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, March 12, 08:54:14pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
if it is on velvet it could be a topper---it helps hold the fibers down so they don't poke through the embroidery (NT) -- bg, Thursday, March 13, 07:43:52am I've seen it on several. All different fabrics. (NT) -- -, Thursday, March 13, 02:36:59pm Gavin's been doing this for years (NT) -- ., Saturday, March 15, 09:40:34pm

Subject: Taking a bash at the design software attached to Bernina software, Corel Essentials. I have a sketch and am trying to locate the "auto trace" funtion. Does this exist in the essentials version of this software? I can't find it anywhere. Would like to know before searching for another graphics design program. Thank you in advance for any input.
Author: stumped [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, March 09, 09:08:20pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Oops, typo...function. (NT) -- .., Sunday, March 09, 09:59:43pm

Subject: What's your return policy? For custom, otr, alterations, etc
Author: Jbd [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, March 04, 01:13:10pm Just curious [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I think you have to work out your own policy. Mine might not work for you, for a whole variety of reasons. (NT) -- ., Wednesday, March 05, 03:12:18am I agree with the above. As with any business, each dressmaker will have their own policy that works for them. If you are a potential customer, then you need to ask the individual dressmaker. (NT) -- ., Wednesday, March 05, 08:44:04am No return on custom dresses. (NT) -- .., Wednesday, March 05, 08:41:20am It's so easy to say that, till you get the very grumpy and obnoxious customer who mismeasured, and has a dress that simply will not work for her daughter, and hassles and hassles and hassles you for a refund, until the simplest thing is just to give in and agree to get out of the problem, even though it was not your fault. (NT) -- It happens., Wednesday, March 05, 04:46:11pm I do have my own and I've been tweaking to what works better for me. I'm just curious. (NT) -- Jbd, Wednesday, March 05, 10:29:12am If you are just starting up in this business, then I think your most important asset is happy customers. I would go out of my way to ensure every customer is pleased with their dress and with the price they pay. Keep your prices low till you have the details of style, skirt sit, sizing and design/embroidery all excellent, with a string of happy customers passing on the good word about you. There's no quick route. (NT) -- It all takes time., Wednesday, March 05, 03:32:53pm I absolutely agree. Be very clear upfront about what you can do well and what you have not perfected yet. (NT) -- ., Friday, March 07, 12:21:37pm

Subject: Shipping dresses to the U.S from Canada.
Author: SND [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, February 27, 05:06:34pm Would any kind dressmaker on here that ships dresses from Canada to the U.S on a regular basis tell me the best method? I have been sending dresses to the U.S for many years using the post but I have been having bad luck recently. UPS and Fed EX are more expensive and the customer is charged high custom and brokerage fees. What service would you suggest? Thank you. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
If you're out west and the dress needs to be sorted through Calgary there does seem to be a delay at that facility. I'd keep using Canada Post as it's the most reliable even if there are the occasional slow downs. (NT) -- x, Thursday, February 27, 05:46:17pm Thank you, I think you are right. (NT) -- SND, Thursday, February 27, 07:12:21pm

Subject: how on earth do you measure out goblet pleats cut on a circle base? I know it must be quite simple but it such mental block to me. Any help would be much appreciated.
Author: DM [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, February 27, 05:25:23am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I have no problem cutting the circle - just measuring for pleats??? (NT) -- DM, Thursday, February 27, 08:04:38am Goblet skirt I find it so much easier to cut a straight skirt and just curve at the sides. (NT) -- SND, Thursday, February 27, 04:59:16pm I never cut on a circle. For a small dress the width of a fabric is usually enough for the front and half for each back. I simply pleat the fabric on the frame of the skirt. (NT) -- hth, Friday, February 28, 05:43:26am On Dance.net there was a very detailed conversation string about making a circular goblet skirt titled "Evolution of a Solo Dress." Here's the url: http://www.dance.net/topic/10041445/1/Irish-Dressmakers-Costumers/The-Evolution-of-a-solo-dress.html&replies=17. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Friday, February 28, 08:06:59am

Subject: Does anyone know the name/type of fabric used in quite a few of the Celtic Star dresses? It's not satin, but still comes in nice bright colors and seems it would be quite a durable option for team dresses. If anyone has had the chance to see this fabric in person, would it be possible to post what type of fabric you think it is?
Author: looking for other fabric options.... [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, February 25, 09:11:54am [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I dont' know about CS, but I saw a Gavin at the O on-stage that I thought was velvet, but when I saw it up close it was Gaberdine! I was really shocked, as I have never seen Gaberdine in such a bright color. I don't know if a SNDM could get away with using Gaberdine, but it sure is durable. (NT) -- .., Tuesday, February 25, 09:30:13am That's what I was thinking it was! But thought, surely it wasn't as it's such nice bright colours! WOW, if anyone else has seen any of them up close, please keep posting, would be great to use but I agree, not sure if us smaller SNDM could get away with it......ug. (NT) -- Who knew!, Tuesday, February 25, 11:37:44am Are you sure it isn't satin? Most of there dresses look like a dull bridal satin in pictures. It comes in GREAT colors from some companies. (NT) -- doesn't look flat enough to be gaberdine, Wednesday, February 26, 11:26:36am Is there a lightweight fabric similar to a gaberdine that starts with a T?? That seems to ring a bell for me..... (NT) -- ??, Thursday, February 27, 09:59:25am Trevira is the fabric I think you mean :) (NT) -- dm, Sunday, March 02, 03:04:55am Thank you, I think that's it! (NT) -- :), Sunday, March 02, 07:19:41pm Can you post a link if you find it online? I can't find it by googling and need it too. (NT) -- thanks, Thursday, March 06, 07:36:12am Treviera is a trade name like Dacron. I found a stretch Treviera at Rosebrands.com in their Stretch section-- pretty good selection of colors. You could also search on polyester gabardine. (NT) -- LynnToledo, Thursday, March 06, 08:42:15am

Subject: Sale
Author: Alison Thrasher [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, February 23, 05:11:34pm Since I am no longer dressmaking, I am starting the huge process of selling off my supplies. Listed here are a few things that might appeal to you all, so I thought I would list them here before Ebay, etc. Please email me if you are interested in purchasing any of these items Vilene B0509 - 9 yds - $20.00 plus shipping 1/2" knit elastic - 40 yd spool - $12.00 plus shipping Pellon Easy-Knit Interfacing - 15 yds - $30.00 plus shipping 60" white poly-cotton Poplin - 6 yds - $28.50 plus shipping thanks! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
the vilene is sold! (NT) -- AT, Sunday, February 23, 05:59:22pm Sorry to hear this Alison, that you are quitting (NT) -- the biz. :( Best wishes to you tho, Thursday, February 27, 04:46:47pm thank you :-) (NT) -- Alison, Friday, February 28, 05:42:24pm

Subject: Following on from the post below about pricing, I'm just wondering what average price you would charge for a dress for an 8yr old, and for a 16yr old, both O/C? Curious as to what the dressmakers would charge when they say the price is the same
Author: ? [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, February 23, 03:40:38pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I think you need to ask the individual dressmaker. If you are interested in having a dress made, then contact the dressmakers you are considering. (NT) -- .., Sunday, February 23, 05:51:18pm

Subject: Has anyone upgraded to Bernina 7 from 6 software?
Author: just wondering how it is [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, February 19, 05:31:16pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I haven't even found it necessary to upgrade from V5 (NT) -- !, Wednesday, February 19, 07:31:03pm I have been sorely tempted by both 6 & 7, but they add nothing that would take what I do for ID dresses to any new level. The cutwork was always interesting, but since we cannot have holes in our dresses, it was useless to me. The dealer said, "Just put fabric behind it!" and I said, "That's called applique!" (NT) -- so, no, Wednesday, February 19, 11:25:22pm That's what I thought, didn't know if it made what we need it for any easier. If it doesn't then there's no point in learning a new layout. (NT) -- Thank you., Thursday, February 20, 09:28:31am

Subject: advertising
Author: bg [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, February 16, 08:12:49am Do you advertise? If so, where and which sites/magazines/fliers/etc do you think work to your best advantage? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
No, I don't find it is necessary to advertise at all. However, when I started out, I found the best was just to make OTR dresses and get them out there, so people could see my work. Now I get far too many requests for dresses, and have to turn people away (NT) -- almost every day., Monday, February 17, 02:13:11pm My situation is the same as the poster above. It is not necessary to advertise. If you do quality work, learn from your experiences, understand your limits, be patient and don't expect to be paid top dollar until you can produce a top dollar product, people will find you. (NT) -- good luck, Tuesday, February 18, 06:25:24pm I advertise on dance-again, and a couple other dressmaker lists (dance-again is the only paid spot). It isn't strictly necessary, but it has brought a wider variety of clients my way over the past few years. I've noticed that I get more emails because they like my style, and less because I might give them a big discount. (NT) -- Your milage may vary!, Thursday, February 20, 07:29:32am feisdresses.com is great for advertising too. they cost less than dance-again and get just as many visits to the site. (NT) -- dm, Monday, February 24, 07:17:37am hhmmm -- I like to research..., Wednesday, March 05, 03:31:27am

Subject: What types of satin do most dressmakers use for ID dresses? Looking on Sy Fabrics, but unsure which satin I should choose?
Author: thanks [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Thursday, February 13, 02:43:02pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I've used crystal/twinkle and matte/dull stains. Both hold shape fairly well but overall, while the crystal/twinkle looks great, it's not very durable if using against sequin fabrics. (NT) -- Just my opinion :), Thursday, February 13, 08:20:26pm What about the Charmeuse satis on Sy? Is it too thin and flimsy? (NT) -- --, Sunday, February 23, 01:41:19pm Yes definitely. I wouldn't use it. (NT) -- ., Saturday, March 15, 10:13:56am

Subject: Anyone have a source for LIME green pleated plisse???
Author: None on ebay looked everywhere I can think [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, February 11, 06:59:11pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Angelo from fashion fabric.biz in NY will pleat fabric for you (NT) -- bg, Wednesday, February 12, 07:08:41am Is the pleated fabric coming back? (NT) -- I thought it wasn't gone for that long., Wednesday, February 12, 07:57:00am Try Miss Browns Fancy. (NT) -- dm, Wednesday, February 12, 09:32:19am Fashion Fabric is excellent, any colour, quick turnaround and very inexpensive. I still have some lime green from them. How much do you need? (NT) -- ?, Wednesday, February 12, 02:00:07pm She wants a 3 layer skirt (NT) -- 2 yards maybe??, Wednesday, February 12, 02:21:49pm Do you have a link to fashion fabric? (NT) -- not sure what it is..thanks!, Wednesday, February 12, 02:24:16pm Just google it, easy to find (NT) -- !, Wednesday, February 12, 08:45:45pm Thanks I got nowhere. No such name. (NT) -- :(, Thursday, February 13, 06:04:53pm Fashion fabric in NY is fashionfabric.biz, as mentioned above. Google "fashion fabric new york" and it comes up. (NT) -- ., Thursday, February 13, 09:21:13pm

Subject: Is this OK ? I am making my daughter's prelim dancer dress and have lovely large pear shaped NON swarovski AB diamantes to decorate it. As for regular stoning I was planning to use up SS30 Czech crystals on the rest of the dress that are just clear. Does mixing AB and Clear crystals work ???
Author: Curious (:)) [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, February 09, 08:06:28pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I've seen BNDM mixing the two kinds. My only concern would be that they are not Swarovski. (NT) -- Big difference., Monday, February 10, 05:22:54am Mixing drives me crazy. But that's just me. I also have used the czech crystals and can't tell the difference. (NT) -- ., Wednesday, February 12, 02:31:32pm I'm surprised you can't tell the difference with czech crystals. Not trying to be rude, but they look very different up close. Fine from a distance though, and I certainly understand wanting to save a bit of money. The cuts aren't as clean, and I think the colors tend to be less clear, the AB coating seem to scratch off faster too.. It's possible that I'm crazy, but I haven't been wild about the czech stones I've seen. (NT) -- --, Wednesday, February 12, 02:36:29pm In the past the Czech stones were noticably different, but in my opinion they have improved. Personally I think they are just as good up to size 30ss, any bigger than that you can really tell the difference. (NT) -- JMHO, Wednesday, February 12, 08:36:02pm Oh, and I am pro-mixing! I think it adds even more sparkle when you mix. (NT) -- JMHO, Wednesday, February 12, 08:37:12pm Agree with the abotve. Even from the distance, no crystal is more sparkly than Swarowski (NT) -- tried them all., Wednesday, February 12, 08:36:48pm I agree, mixing is fine, though I wouldn't choose to if I had enough of one type or the other. I find only a very few larger sizes of crystals sparkle as well as Swarovski, and everyone prefers Swarovski for resale value. (NT) -- In my opinion, Wednesday, February 12, 08:52:37pm

Subject: Postage update
Author: sdm [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Friday, February 07, 02:28:09pm I spent 78.00 to ship from US to Germany and 81.00 to Australia. Crazy! US priority large flat rate box. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Which one do you think is crazy? (NT) -- Both seem pretty normal to me, Sunday, February 09, 07:29:44pm It used to be 30 bucks (NT) -- Less, Monday, February 10, 04:15:45pm When was that? You can't even ship an ID dress within the US for $30 anymore. (NT) -- .., Monday, February 10, 04:46:44pm Not true. I pay $16.00 to ship in the (NT) -- U.S., Saturday, February 15, 01:42:52pm But, are you insuring the dress for the full amount? $16 seems was too low if you are. (NT) -- ., Sunday, February 16, 01:16:12pm I agree, there is absolutely no way to ship a dress for $16 with full insurance, and personally I never ship without insurance. I just looked at usps.com and regular priority mail postage to ship to MY NEIGHBOR is $28.53 with insurance. Since I do this as a business, I also must factor in "handling" charges for the cost of the box, gas and time to go to the post office, etc., when I ship a dress (NT) -- .., Monday, February 17, 07:33:57pm

Subject: copper satin
Author: bg [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, February 04, 11:14:23am Do any of you know of a on-line store that carries copper satin. The color of a polished copper pot, maybe slightly on the rust side of copper? thank you! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/search/Light-Copper-Metallic-Spandex/4642/0 -- http://www.silkbaron.com/searchresults.asp?cat=1818, Wednesday, February 05, 10:37:23am thank you so much! really looking for a poly satin---no stretch... (NT) -- bg, Thursday, February 06, 08:46:07am This one is copper (not orange, brown, or gold!), a little darker than a new penny: http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Charmeuse-Silky-Satin-58-Inch-Width/Cinnamon-Charmeuse-Satin-58/144/231 (NT) -- -- (--), Thursday, February 06, 01:22:48pm perfect----thank you so much! (NT) -- bg, Friday, February 07, 09:07:17am

Subject: Yahoo group Question- I can't find it when I search iddressmaking
Author: Please help [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, February 02, 03:11:19pm Someone suggested I join the iddressmaking group- but I can't find it- can someone help? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I thought that group ended a while back (NT) -- ., Monday, February 03, 04:09:45am Nope, still going strong. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/IDDressmaking/ (NT) -- , Monday, February 03, 10:59:27am*

Subject: Sewing machine tune-ups/repairs--surveying pricing
Author: sticker shock sewer [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Wednesday, January 29, 09:17:06am I take my sewing machines to a local shop that sells many brands-and they usually charge $65-$90 depending on the brand and model(computerized machines cost more). However, I just purchased a used mid-arm machine(Janome)that is a straight stitch only machine, all mechanical and when I dropped it off the guy told me they cost $199 to do a tune up--I was shocked!!! Wondering what the typical rates are in other parts of the the US-I am in the midwest, fairly large city. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Did you ask why? Is it difficult to find parts for, or access, or require an unusually delicate touch? I paid under 100.00 for someone to stop by (I am in his route) and tune up my singer 20U. It cost about the same as taking it in somewhere, but without the two week wait. (NT) -- --, Thursday, January 30, 07:52:17am I think Bernina and Janome are about the same in terms of cost of servicing. High, but they have a monompoly because no one else can by their parts. (NT) -- BJ, Thursday, January 30, 01:47:41pm buy (NT) -- BJ, Saturday, February 01, 07:57:26am* If you are in the DC area, I would highly recommend Jeff Carper of Alverton In-Home Service. He is at the Hancock Fabrics in Gaithersburg every Mon but he does on-site service/repairs! I had him come to my shop and service 6 machines and it cost me less than the Bernina dealer charged me to service 1. Great work, lots of good tips, and very personable. (NT) -- BJ - Irish Seams, LLC, Thursday, January 30, 01:51:04pm I used to work at the Hancock in Rockville and Jeff was our repairman there as well. Great guy! (NT) -- mp, Monday, February 03, 09:27:24am

Subject: Trying to figure out the BNDM skirt construction.
Author: keep trying [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 08:16:43am Currently my skirt construction works fine for me and any of the small dresses I make. It has a definite side seam placed at the side that lines up with the side seam of the bodice. While it's working fine for the "no bum" little dancers, I'm finding it just sits too flat at the back for anyone aged 12/13 and up. There's just not enough swing/flow. I'm trying to figure out the construction of the BNDM skirts that have their seams hidden about an inch in front of the actual side seam of the bodice. Has anyone figured out a formula they may be willing to share? Something like: Divide the dropped waist by 2, subtract 2 inches from the front panel and perhaps add 4 inches to the back panel. I can see it under the skirt no problem, just having a tough time getting it right. Any help appreciated, if anyone is willing to share. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
Mary Horton sells a pattern. Email her at (see email addy) (NT) -- BJ, Tuesday, January 28, 05:43:52pm Thank you very much, will definitely drop her a line. Greatly appreciated! (NT) -- :), Wednesday, January 29, 09:22:01am I cut each skirt to fit the individual measurements. After a while you just get a feel for what will look right. I don't have a formula, but the front skirt is always less than half the total, much less on larger dancers. (NT) -- Sorry no formula for everyone, Wednesday, January 29, 03:11:12pm Good to know, thanks, I appreaciate it. Will keep plugging away till I get comfortable. Thanks again! (NT) -- :), Wednesday, January 29, 06:40:18pm I divide the waist measurement by 4 and then subtract 1" and make the skirt front pattern to that measurement and cut on the fold. I use the same pattern but add 3" to the centre back: 1" for the seam & 2"to make up for the inch taken off. This moves the side seam 1"to the back and makes the back 4"wider than the front. (NT) -- Similar to BN, Saturday, February 01, 08:35:42pm Sorry, 1"to the FRONT, not 1"to the back. (NT) -- typo, Saturday, February 01, 08:37:11pm THANK YOU! The sample I'm trying at the minute is nearly identical to this "formula". Thank you for posting this, it really helps to know I'm on the right track. MANY, MANY THANKS! (NT) -- grateful, Sunday, February 02, 09:42:18am That might work well for smaller dresses, but I don't think it would work for a wider dress, as the front skirt would end up looking extremely wide (NT) -- ., Sunday, February 02, 03:56:41pm I have always used the point of the hip bone as the marker for where the pleat should fall - measure from the side-seam to the point of hip and that's how much less off the front/more to the back you could go. I've found it tends to allow the front panel to lie flat on most body types. (NT) -- former SNDM, Tuesday, February 04, 10:09:06am Will have to try that, thanks. I can see how that would make it sit flat. Thank you, this is very helpful. (NT) -- getting there!, Wednesday, February 05, 10:10:44am Pls break the code bndm & sndm? (NT) -- Mary, Sunday, April 20, 01:23:58am

Subject: Does anyone else have trouble with clips flying off the X-Panto frame, and if so, how have you fixed the problem please? My dealer has no clue!
Author: Thank you [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, January 26, 09:22:40pm [ Post a Reply to This Message ]
Replies:
I've never had that problem! Could the interfacing/fabric be stretched too tight, and be the source of the problem? I can't imagine the clips coming loose, mine are a pain to take off when I want them off! (NT) -- --, Monday, January 27, 05:04:06pm Are you trying to hoop too many layers? I hoop two layers of backing then place my fabrics on top and secure with digitized straight stitches. (NT) -- ??, Thursday, January 30, 09:18:25am

Subject: 11 month old Gavin Doherty Dress for sale
Author: Majella [ Edit \| View ]	Date Posted: Sunday, January 26, 05:37:40am http://www.ontraz.ie/Ad/Sligo/Irish-Dancing/Dresses/11-month-old-Gavin-Doherty-Dress-for-sale/3759 [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

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