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Subject: Back skirt question...

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Date Posted: Tuesday, June 23, 06:55:29pm

In the past and up till recently I've always constructed my back skirts with a pleat. Even on a soft skirt, I will make the underpanel a couple of inches bigger than the back bodice and create a pleat with that excess. It does make the back waist seam a little bulky in that area especially with the layer of underpanel and soft skirt, lining etc. however my logic is that having that pleat there gives the corresponding let out room to make the skirt bigger around the waist to match up with the bodice if it is ever let out from the side seams.

However I've noticed from looking at other dressmakers work (eg second hand big names etc) that they were not including this pleat on soft skirts. The only "let out" is about an inch in the centre back at the zipper. However this is the let out to correspond with the centre back if the bodice. There doesn't seem to be any where in the skirt that you could get the extra space if the side seams were let out. It seems silly as there's extra space sitting there in the bodice seams, but no way I can see to make the skirt bigger, preventing much alteration.

Just wondering other Dm's thoughts on this. It seems the skirt and waist construction would be simpler without the pleat and less bulky, but I don't want someone left with a dress that can't be altered if they ever need it.

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Subject Author Date
I believe there are many small dm's that add extra fabric into the skirt for the same reason, because it makes sense. I also believe that is why the big name dm's don't add extra fabric. They want people to buy a new dress when the dancer grows. Parents know this but they still continue to go to the big name dm's and spend 2x more. (NT)go figureTuesday, June 23, 08:22:42pm

I believe customers usually require letout and letdown from SNDMs, but do not do so with BNDMs. Never made sense to me (NT)!Wednesday, June 24, 07:55:55am

The first years soft skirts still had side pleats so you could let it out there. Now they don't even have that. Doire Dress Designs often have extra skirt at the center back. I think most BNDM really don't want their dresses altered. The latest from Rising Star and Eire Designs have so much matching embroidery from bodice to skirt that you can not adjust the length at the bodice/skirt seamat all. (NT)my thoughtsWednesday, June 24, 02:25:47pm

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