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Date Posted: 14:00:40 03/15/01 Thu
I have made many dresses using velvet and gabardine but my customers are now asking for silks and roc lame. Is there a technique for sewing/embroidering these delicate fabrics? Also I have noticed that roc lame is being used for the main body of some dresses - how?
-What's roc lame? Never heard that term before. How's it diff from regular old lame?
-Is "roc lame" the same thing as "satin lame' "? I just altered a fairly new dress with the sides made out of it. It's definitely the "flash" that some people want, but they won't last very long. I won't make one using it, except for appliqués.
-I use a lot of raw silk. The first thing I do in interface every piece. It helps it hold up as well as keeps it from unraveling while sewing. Also, look for the silk without too many "bumps" in it. Upon wearing, the smoother the raw silk, the less it will pill up. Putting a dress together with the silk is so much easier than dealing with the velvet, butt I don't think the dresses will last as long.
--What kind of interfacing do you use?
---I use a fusible medium weight interface
-I have done my appliques using heat & bond light to fuse them into place, then satin stitching around the edges. I always pre-shrink all applique fabrics, lame, satin, metallics etc, then fuse them to pre-shrunk matching all cotton broadcloth. Then I trace the design onto heat & bond light and fuse to cotton side of applique, cut out and fuse into place. On the appliques make sure nearly all the satin stitch is on the applique fabric, with just the "zig" going over the edge into the base fabric. Prevents pull-outs which can be very difficult to repair in a completed dress.
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