Pressing Cloth & Heat Seal -- Costumer's FAQ

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Subject: Pressing Cloth & Heat Seal

Author:
Anonymous

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Date Posted: 12:50:24 03/15/01 Thu
In reply to: K 's message, "Tips/Techniques" on 15:47:31 03/10/01 Sat

I'm in the midst of a new solo dress for my PW U13 daughter, very little embroidery, mostly lame' applique. Stumbled upon a very helpful notion while buying a new ironing board cover at Target. It is a see-through press cloth that prevents scorching. Looks like a piece of tent screening with bias tape bound edges. Has been great to position and fuse the appliques -- I finished the skirt panel and bodice without frying a single applique, or ending up with one in the wrong place. Thought I'd pass on the info.

Replies:
-I use a Teflon sheet that I bought at Clotildes. It basically does the same thing, and you can even put it in your oven to use for cooking (not that I would).

-I use one also but it does not have a binding. They are definitely a necessity,. The other thing is the heat seal tool, which is like a miniature iron.

--The heat seal iron can be bought on the Madeira website. I think they recently changed the name of it to an applique iron. It is a small iron ( 1 5/8" by 5") with a long wooden handle. Beats putting a large iron on those little applique pieces. It is also sold in hobby shops that sell model aircraft supplies. I think it was made to apply heat sensitive appliques to the models. It is worth its weight in GOLD!!

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Replies:

[> [> Subject: Using new fabrics-lame & silk

Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 14:00:40 03/15/01 Thu

I have made many dresses using velvet and gabardine but my customers are now asking for silks and roc lame. Is there a technique for sewing/embroidering these delicate fabrics? Also I have noticed that roc lame is being used for the main body of some dresses - how?

Replies:
-What's roc lame? Never heard that term before. How's it diff from regular old lame?

-Is "roc lame" the same thing as "satin lame' "? I just altered a fairly new dress with the sides made out of it. It's definitely the "flash" that some people want, but they won't last very long. I won't make one using it, except for appliqu�s.

-I use a lot of raw silk. The first thing I do in interface every piece. It helps it hold up as well as keeps it from unraveling while sewing. Also, look for the silk without too many "bumps" in it. Upon wearing, the smoother the raw silk, the less it will pill up. Putting a dress together with the silk is so much easier than dealing with the velvet, butt I don't think the dresses will last as long.

--What kind of interfacing do you use?

---I use a fusible medium weight interface

-I have done my appliques using heat & bond light to fuse them into place, then satin stitching around the edges. I always pre-shrink all applique fabrics, lame, satin, metallics etc, then fuse them to pre-shrunk matching all cotton broadcloth. Then I trace the design onto heat & bond light and fuse to cotton side of applique, cut out and fuse into place. On the appliques make sure nearly all the satin stitch is on the applique fabric, with just the "zig" going over the edge into the base fabric. Prevents pull-outs which can be very difficult to repair in a completed dress.

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