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Subject: error 3300

jeff baker
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Date Posted: 17:35:41 08/19/08 Tue

I have a IGT money storm slot modle IB4936CFIW DATED 9/95,it has aerror code of 3300.

I have put quarters in it,shut the door and nothing happens.

Does not make any noise,just flashes 3300.

I have had the hopper working by going into service mode and

had it count ten quarters.

I was wondering about my door sensor,when i open the door

it shows nothing on the display that the door is open.



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[> Subject: Re: error 3300

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Date Posted: 17:33:08 08/25/08 Mon

Door open problems with the S-Plus (which this sound likes) can be a headache so I am going to post this from my EBOOK “How to Fix and Repair Slot Machines. http://www.lulu.com/content/2527371

Door Open Problems with the S-Plus

If a zero is displayed in the coins-played window and the reels do not spin when the door is shut you have a door open problem. The following things can cause a door open.

• Door optics/switches
• A bad motherboard
• A bad MPU
• Wiring
• A blown five volt fuse

The first thing to check for is the five volt fuse, if the fuse is good then start with the switches and optics. The following optics and switches are on the S-Plus all must show closure for the game to function.

• BV switch
• Belly door switch (some upright games have belly door switches)
• Door optics receiver and emitter
• Belly door optic (slant-top models)

When checking switches us a DMM and check for continuity before replacing. They are cheap but why replace them if you don’t have to. Switches will have three connectors “C” common “NO” normally open and “NC” normally closed. There are usually only two wires going to any door switch. Common will always be connected the other wire may depend so remember or write down what is connected before changing out a switch. Remember the switch is trying to show closure by completing the connection of the two wires. If you have a game at home the two wires can simply be connected together to show closure this is not the proper way but can be done.

The BV door switch is a common failure. Quite often the BV door is not closed enough to close the switch. Try pushing the BV door in making sure it is closed all the way. One way to make sure it is closed is to open up the belly door close the main door then you will be able to push in on the BV door making sure it is closing all the way. There is a small lever on the BV door switch that sometime need to be adjusted basically bent back out so it makes contact when the BV door is shut. Take care when bending the little lever it can break easily.

Some upright S-Plus games have a belly door switch, if you have an upright game check to see if you have a belly door switch. Check the switches with a DMM for continuity or replace them.

The next thing to check is the optics. The optic on the door is the emitter and the one on the cabinet side is the receiver. The receiver optic on the cabinet side can be checked in self-test mode. To do this press the self-test button until a “ 1 “ appears in the coins- played window. Then turn the reset-key until “ 13_0 ” appears in the winner-paid window. Take a flashlight and shine it in to the receiver optic and the “ 13_0 “ should change to “ 13_1 “. If the state does not change then the optic may be bad. If the states do change then the optic is good. While still in door-open test mode shut the door and see if there is a state change. The correct state change is a rapid change between “ 13_0 “ and “13_1”. In other words the 0 and 1 will flutter very fast. If there is only a 0 or a 1 and there is no rapid switching between 0 and 1 then there is a problem.

The emitter optic can be checked by shutting the door while still in door-open test mode. Even if there is no rapid switching between 0 and1, if there is any state change at all then the optics are good. If there is no change at all between 0 and 1 this does not necessarily mean the optics are bad. Door optics has to be aligned face to face with the door shut to work. The door optics usually doesn’t get out of alignment so I don’t suggest playing with the plastic optic holders. If an optic is bad don’t unscrew the plastic holders. Use a small screw driver to gently pry them out and snap the new ones in. If the plastic optic holders are unscrewed it will take a bit patience to get them realigned. Also, when changing out optics don’t mix up the emitter with the receiver optic.

One trick many slot techs use to see if the optics are bad is by making up a jumper. To do this unplug the optics and make a jumper that connects the two wires going to the receiver optic go to the two wires going to the emitter optic. When you do this the optics are by passed and if the door shows closure then one or both the optics are bad. Be aware if you do use a jumper in rare occasions I have seen the door show closure and the true problem is something else but in general this does work.
(If you make a jumper red goes to red black goes to white. We used to use bad emitter and receiver optics and solder their connecters together with about two feet of wire in between. You don’t have to make up a jumper to check the optics. Check the receiver in test mode with a flashlight if it shows good then check the emitter by closing the door in test mode if the state changes from 0 to a 1 at all then the optics are good. This is only a short cut Slot Techs use to see if the optics are good or bad quickly.)

For any one working on a slant-top game there is also an optic for the belly door. The belly door optic will be on the right hand side and mounted to the cabinet. The belly door itself which comes out has a notch with shiny tape on it. The belly door optic has emitter and receiver built in the same piece. When the belly door is put on the shiny tape reflects the light from the emitter back to the receiver to show closure.

Once the switches and optics have been tested and known to be good then check the wiring. Look for any physical problems such as cuts or not being plugged in. Wiring usually will not be the problem except in rare cases. But as a slot machine ages wiring connections become more of a problem.

The last thing to check will be the MPU and motherboard. If the EEPROM on the motherboard fails then this will cause a door open tilt. This is a common failure and a straight forward fix. Make sure all switches, optics and wiring have been check and doubled checked before changing out the motherboard. See the motherboard section on how to do this.
An MPU failure can also cause a door open tilt but is not as common. See the MPU section for how to replace.

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