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04 /25/ 24, 3:05pm

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Subject: Lights and Stuff Author: thebomguy [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 12/ 26/ 01, 12:38pm Hey... as I said I am new to all this stuff and need some help... glad you guys are here... ok... I have replaced several florecents and some work but others do not... I am guessing that I need to replace the ballist or entire fixtures in those that do not work... just wondering if I am right?... also... the rear furnace kicks on but no heat... is there a pilot light that needs to be lit?... also there are a couple of fans (heaters?) under the sofa and under the cabinet in the galley... since it is getting down in the 20s tonight... should I turn them on... are they to keep the plumbing from freezing up?... Really like my 79XV wish it had a little more topend... it is a Cat 3208 250 Turbo... read something about adding another entry in the air cleaner... would this help? and don't know anything about the 2 speed rear end... would this also help? Thanks for all your help ... Phil Wheelehan [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Replies:

[> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Ernie Ekberg [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 26/ 01, 4:23pm Phil- just a short note to say - yes, turn your heaters on- especially if you have them under the sink and by yourr water tank. There should be 2 and they can save you a lot of grief. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: thebomguy [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 26/ 01, 7:03pm Thanks Ernie... just went out and turned them on... don't need any more grief in my life for sure! I was able to get two of the furnaces to turn on but the one in the bedroom does not seem to want to ignite. I can hear the peizo hitting and the fan is running but no flame. Perhaps, air in the line? For some reason the hot water heater does not work... no leaking just no hot water... ??? Phil Wheelehan (thebomguy.com) [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Bruce Morris [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 28/ 01, 5:38pm Phil, I was just looking at the diagram for the heaters in my 83 Wanderlodge and noticed that each of the furnaces has a separate shut off valve. If the igniter is working correctly you might want to make sure that the gas isn't turned off. Regards, Bruce in Raleigh, NC KI4ME 1983 35FC-RB Wanderlodge FMCA 7142s - WL 3910 - GoodSam http://www.geocities.com/bamnc/mypage.html [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Bob Dilks [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 29/ 01, 4:54am Your getting lots of good advise on the bedroom heater that doesn't work. Here are some other items: Rust may have foulded the burner element and may need to be cleaned, gas valve and/or associated relay may be defective preventing gas from being supplied to the burner. Factory suggests yearly testing but three or four years may be more appropriate. If your furnaces have not been inspectd since installed, now is a good time to start with the bedroom unit. Remove the furnace and take it to a qualified RV service center for "bench testing". I think you should go a step further and have the burner removed and cleaned. Total cost for this service is about $70 including new fireproof gaskets if needed. If you want to get more technical help, call Suburban Furnace at 423/775-2131, they will help you with trubleshooting. Electric heaters are convenient but for really cold weather the big bang in heat comes from all those BTUs stored in LP. Just be aware that the LP heaters are not a substitute for also having your freeze prevent heaters (in sink and water heater plumbing areas) and plumbing line heat tape working. Here's to keeping your coach cozy. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Bob Dilks [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 29/ 01, 6:20am Oops, forgot one of the most common problems for heater failure. If you live in the southern half of the U.S. and do not have insect protectors on the exterior intake and exhaust ports of your furnaces there is every possibility wasps, particularly "mud dobbers" could have built their nests in the furnace. For some reason the wasps build in the furnace itself rather than the intake and exhaust tubes. Bench testing and burner removal and cleaning should reveal any of these nests. I had all three furnaces bench tested last year and one furnace had three nests, anothe two nests and I didn't get a chance to talk with the technician on the third. Good luck. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Bob Dilks [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 30/ 01, 5:26am First the fluorescent lights - the ballast (really an inverter from 12 volts to about 1400 volts) degrades over time and needs to be replaced. Blue Bird carries replacement fixtures for about $55 that are head and shoulders above other replacement fixtures you can buy in the $35 to $45 range. There can be many reasons the hot water heater is not working. First lets assume that the circuit breaker in the electrical distribution panel is turned on and has been voltaged checked to see that current is flowing to the on/off toggle switch for the hot water heater and that that switch has aslo been checked for operation so that power is going to the water heater cabinet. Lets also assume the water heater actually has water in the tank. To electrically heat the hot water, the current first passes through a 12 volt operated relay located on the inside water heater cabinet wall that turns off AC current if the low water sensor on the water tank fails to have a ground, either through the tank water as designed, or to the chassis which is a way to circumvent or test the sensor. After passing through the relay, the current next goes through a high temperature switch in the tank designed to cut off the AC current if the low water sensor fails to detect an empty tank. Check to make sure the plunger on the high temperature switch is pushed inward to reset the switch and allow current to flow onward. Next the electrical flow is through the thermostat switch and then on to the heating calrod in the tank. A failure in the relay, high temperature switch, tripped high temperature switch, thermostat switch or calrod can all cause the hot water heater not to operate. Get out your multimeter and check for current at every location. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]