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>So refreshing to read a light, joyful, amusing book >which all the same contains Julian Barnes' habitual >and personal examination of the subject in hand. >Having been brought up in Berlin in the fifties, where >the "occupiers" had to employ the locals to help with >the employment effort in the aftermath of the war, I >never even set foot in the kitchen which was ruled >over by a cook and various servants. When we moved >out to Kenya in the sixites, I discovered the joys of >being a pedant in the kitchen using recipes from >girls' magazines and making "those for whom" sick with >mountains of fudge every Sunday when the cook had his >day off. Since then I have come a long way and >amassed a huge number of cookery books (which I can't >cull), both new and old and definitely multi-cultural >(we also lived in India, Greece and England) and now I >live in a French province where foreign food is just >too foreign for the French (even Indian cuisine is >prepared without chilli as hot food is looked down >upon by my now-compatriots. Actually, this surprises >me as when you see the amount of harissa heaped onto a >plate of couscous, you know that it would make even an >Indonesion's eyeballs explode). A few Christmasses >ago, I was given the GREATEST COOKERY BOOK EVER and >NOTHING EVER GOES WRONG. It's a magical tool for the >pedant but unfortunately for any interested, it's >totally unavailable now. It's called Complete Cooking >Step-by-Step, is by nobody in particular, but bears >the Cordon Bleu label and a foreword by André J. >Cointreau. Lucky me and a friend of mine who scoured >the world to get the very last copy still knocking >about out there.

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