Author: THE BOSTON GLOBE [Edit]
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Date Posted: 08:29 09/21/08 Sun
September 21, 2008
Pho Saigon
10 Dinley St., Dracut
978-957-5049
Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.- 11 p.m.; closed Mondays until October
MasterCard and Visa accepted
Accessible to the handicapped.
For months, I had been hearing about a new hot spot in Dracut. My brother and his wife raved about Pho Saigon, a restaurant that artfully blends its signature Vietnamese dishes with a bevy of Pan-Asian delights. Even my parents, die-hard fans of the traditional steak and potato dinner, gave Pho Saigon two thumbs up. So, naturally, my husband and I had to give the restaurant a try.
We came with high expectations, and were not disappointed. We were greeted warmly by Tram Dang, daughter of proprietor Thien Dang, and seated at a booth by the window. The restaurant's rich wood tones and Asian-themed artwork matched Dang's vibrant personality.
At first glance, the menu appeared a bit overwhelming, with more than 100 items to choose from. Luckily, our server, Kelly, was happy to make suggestions.
She recommended the restaurant's most popular dish, Ga Xao Rau Cai (chicken with vegetables, $9.50). It features tender slices of chicken breast stir fried with a medley of veggies: broccoli, onion, mushrooms, baby corn, snow peas, cauliflower, squash, celery, carrots, and red and green peppers.
"We're trying to get the word out, and let people know that we offer more than the standard Vietnamese fare," said Tram Dang, a recent graduate of Bentley College who uses her skills in marketing management to help her father promote Pho Saigon, the family's first restaurant. (The Dangs also own the adjacent Frosty Boy ice cream stand.)
My husband and I started our culinary adventure with Kha Vi Dac Biet (the Saigon Delight, $12). The appetizer combo plate is great for folks like me, who want to sample everything. It features several classics: egg rolls, spring rolls, shrimp toast, chicken teriyaki, and beef teriyaki. My husband particularly enjoyed experimenting with the accompanying sauces, which, he said, reminded him of his wife: sweet, spicy, and nuts. (The nutty sauce was his favorite.)
The spring rolls consisted of shredded lettuce, fresh mint, rice vermicelli, sliced pork, and steamed shrimp, all wrapped in low-fat rice paper. Paired with the sweet sauce, it was a delightful blend of tastes and textures. The beef teriyaki was also delectable. The tender meat was marinated in the house sauce, grilled to perfection, and topped with scallions.
For the main course, I decided to order Do Bien Xao Rau Cai (seafood with vegetables, $11) a dish similar to the one our server recommended. Instead of chicken, the entrée features shrimp, scallops, and squid. The brown sauce was light and flavorful, a wonderful complement to the many veggies. The seafood was very fresh, and tender to the bite. The dish is served with white rice, but fried rice can be substituted.
My husband, who usually orders Pho, the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup, when we dine at Vietnamese restaurants, decided try something new: Ga Xao Dau Phung Hoac Hat Kieu (chicken with peanuts or cashews, $10). Like my dish, his entrée featured sautéed veggies and was served with white rice. He's not a veggie lover, but paired with the peanuts, the medley of snow peas, broccoli, onion, mushrooms, baby corn, cauliflower, and bell peppers was a hit.
We had more than enough food to satisfy, with leftovers for lunch the next day. The night would have been perfect if the restaurant offered dessert. Alas, Thien Dang is still tinkering with the dessert menu. The Dangs believe the traditional Vietnamese puddings would fail to find an audience in Dracut and are striving to come up with their own custom creation, Tram Dang said.
The only other downside to Pho Saigon is the lack of a children's menu. At Pho Saigon, children can pair chicken fingers or a teriyaki dish with a side of lo mein or fried rice, but there are no entrees designed specifically for them.
Still, the fresh ingredients and vast array of healthy dishes make Pho Saigon worth trying. And the cost-conscious will appreciate the wide range of entrees available for less than $10. The two of us paid roughly $45 to enjoy a relaxing dinner, including drinks, tax, and tip.
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