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Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: arcom [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 09:19:47 03/21/08 Fri In reply to: Me 's message, "Timing a Colt Percussion" on 07:08:33 03/21/08 Fri The critical consideration is how many SUVs are in front of you at the drive-up Dunkin Donuts window and how many women are in each SUV ordering skim milk lattes with a touch of cinnamon, 2 splendas and a half a packet of white sugar. For each latte, add 4 minutes to your wait time. Subtract 1 from the number of lattes then multiply by 8. The resulting number is how many feet you must leave between your car and the car in front of you so you can get around the SUV when the wait time becomes too much to bear. Thank you. [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

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[> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: John (Black River Rifle Works) [Edit] Date Posted: 12:52:52 03/21/08 Fri Not sure exactly what you mean by "what is an important consideration that dictates how close the bolt can be to the hammer cam and what parts are involved" but in a properly fitted gun the bolt arm would be at rest just next to the cam (its possible that your hammer is a replacement and it is dimentionaly different). In regards to timing there are 4 causes to early bolt drop: 1. left arm short(mis fit) 2. hammer cam dia. too small 3. hammer cam mislocated 4. replica hammer off-dimention. There are 2 causes for late bolt drop 1. left arm too long relative to hammer cam dia. 2. or left bolt arm too long relative to hammer cam location. Good luck [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: Wayne [Edit] Date Posted: 20:55:41 03/21/08 Fri I know I don't get the idea across as smooth as silk but......I was referring to timing to get the bolt out of the notch before the hand turns the cylinder and grates the bolt into the notch edge. Getting the bolt leg closer to the hammers cam activates the movement of the bolt with the slightest movement of the hammer. That gets the bolt moving and out of the cylinder notch. The point of the matter I was wanting to bring up has to do with the "nipples" and the blow-back that comes out of them and the movement of the "hammer" that can cause and the fact that if the bolt leg is too close to the hammer cam the movement of the hammer from the blow-back moves the bolt out of the notch and,if the hand is very close to the ratchet tooth behind the cylinder, the gun puts itself out of alignment in regards to the bore and chambers before the ball gets out of the chamber. The other part that is connected to this syndrom is the "mainspring" that,if strong enough, can keep the blowback from moving the hammer that moves the bolt and the hand that moves the cylinder out of alignment with the bore. The problem wouldn't exist in a cartridge revolver because it has no "nipples" to cause blow-back. Anywhooooo......if you have a gun that shoots like crap and there's no apparant reason for it then you may want to take off the grip strap and the trigger guard and move the hammer to see if there is too little space between the hammers cam and the bolt leg. Funny uh? Accuracy affected by how close the bolt leg is to the hammers cam? Now all cap&ballers don't shoot shitty if the bolt leg is real close to the hammers cam and that's usually because the blow-back gas gets deflected enough by the cut-out in the hammer for the safety pins to locate into or the mainspring isn't lightened too much. Cap&ballers need that mainspring to be a little stiffer than a cartridge gun. The way I asked the question gives something up to translation so everyone that had an answer is probably correct in relation to what they thought the question actually was. I just wanted to bring up this aspect since there are times when a gun seems just fine and dandy but still shoots crappy and this syndrom of the bolt leg too close to the hammer cam and the movement of the parts by blow-back from the nipples that causes misaligment of the chamber to the bore at the time the ball begins to move isn't usually thought of as a potential problem when accuracy is suffering in a cap&baller revolver. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: oldelm [Edit] Date Posted: 08:49:44 03/22/08 Sat "Accuracy affected by how close the bolt leg is to the hammers cam?...."nipples" and the blow-back that comes out of them and the movement of the "hammer" that can cause and the fact that if the bolt leg is too close to the hammer cam " Well, I never considered that. Maybe one could test whether this was a problem with a particular gun if he/she tried a conversion cylinder in it, and got better accuracy. No doubt some Treso Nipples and a somewhat stout Mainspring could go a ways to help alleviate this problem. (that's what she said) Thanks for sharing that gem of info with us ,Wayne. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: Wayne [Edit] Date Posted: 21:05:14 03/22/08 Sat Oldelm, I guess ya could check by putting a bolt in the gun that was a good ways away from the hammer cam. Just long enough to test. Far enough away from the cam to let the hammer move a lot before it moved the bolt. You could test by putting a stiff mainspring in and new nipples too. If you tested with a conversion cylinder balls should be loaded in the cases. Of course the conversion cylinder may never come out of the gun again and the percussion cylinder may be sold on GunBroker. ha ha ha ha [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: Smokin' Gun (Light bulb) [Edit] Date Posted: 01:53:01 03/22/08 Sat Thanks for puttin' that in her Wayne... that's one thing I dint look at when I did all that testing with my 1851 Navy Uberti last year, member? 3F,Tripe7, my lube pills, your lube pills, pepper pills, and space pills...on numerous paper target patenrs with varying groups... Guess I better look at my mainspring tension...I probly loosened it up a hair. Good one Wayner! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: Wayne [Edit] Date Posted: 21:17:05 03/22/08 Sat That's right SmokinGun. Check the mainspring tension but also see how much movement does the hammer have before it moves the bolt. If there is enough then the hammer could blow back some and not move the bolt or the hand. I think.......you won't see any appreciable accuracy improvements with that UBERTI Navy Colt till you have me ream the chambers to be a coupla thou over the barrel groove diameter. Of course....we seem to differ in opinion on that one....or do we? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: Smokin' Gun [Edit] Date Posted: 00:08:10 03/23/08 Sun Oh I agree with your opinion of reaming bettering the accuracy...but not with every revolver. I think we agreed that a certain variance in cylinder to bore tolerances is more than acceptable, as in the case of that 1873BP Colt Uberti. We're on the same page I think:) [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: Timing a Colt Percussion Author: Wayne [Edit] Date Posted: 05:58:09 03/23/08 Sun What's the Uberti Percussion 1873 got? How much bigger than the chambers are the barrel grooves? Ever wonder if that guns good alignment or whatever gives it the edge? I know a cap&baller can shoot good with as much as 4-5 .001's inch under sized chambers. I know that 1-2 .001's under sized chamers is bad compared to 4-5 001's for some reason.Funny uh? Seems like that is backwards but it ain't. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 1873BP Ubert i#'s Author: Smokin' Gun [Edit] Date Posted: 04:33:18 03/24/08 Mon Well Wayne the #'s haven't changed from a couple yrs ago on the 1873BP Uberti. BBL. grooves .451-.452 near as I can measure w/o swedgin', lands .447, chambers .450... You saw the target groups they must be close enough, ya think? [ Post a Reply to This Message ]