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Subject: John Weitz, Fashion Designer Turned Historian


Author:
New York
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Date Posted: October 04, 2002 1:47:49 EDT

John Weitz, the urbane designer of casual fashions who put his name on socks, neckties, and the backs of city buses, died yesterday at his home in Bridgehampton, N.Y. He was 79.

The cause was cancer, his son Christopher said.

European by birth, an O.S.S. officer in World War II, and a novelist and historian who wrote about Hitler's cronies and the world of Seventh Avenue, Mr. Weitz became a fixture in the social life of his adopted New York.

Mr. Weitz cheerfully accepted the blame for being among the first American fashion designers to enter into licensing deals in the 1950's. He licensed items like socks, neckties and men's fragrances, though he had his limits. He would not use his name on clothing for large women, or police and airline uniforms ("They wanted to tell me how to design them"), or cigarettes ("I thought it would be immoral").

A designer's name lives after him, Mr. Weitz said in a 1988 interview with The New York Times. "Christian Dior has been dead for 30 years, and he still makes more money than I do," he said. "My presence, you see, is not exactly necessary."

John Fairchild, the former publisher of Women's Wear Daily, said last night that Mr. Weitz was a very clever businessman.

"He did very well at putting his name on things," he said. "He became sort of a household name."

"He made some wonderful sportswear, he understood very sporty clothes, and he had a certain amount of elegance about what he did," Mr. Fairchild said.

Mr. Fairchild considered Mr. Weitz more of a stylist than a designer. "He was making things he thought were attractive for the general public, and at that time this was rather unique."

Mr. Fairchild recalled how Mr. Weitz would talk about his days in the Office of Strategic Services (the forerunner of the Central Intelligence Agency). "He loved all that romantic part of his past," Mr. Fairchild said. "He was a perfect gentleman, and could talk for hours and hours and hours, a lot about himself, which is part of his charm."

In an interview with Contemporary Authors, Mr. Weitz outlined his philosophy of fashion: "Function must always precede fashion, and I am as interested in construction as in styling. Most of all, a man must always look healthy and fit and scrubbed. And he must wear his clothes as if they are old and valued friends."

He was born Hans Werner Weitz on May 25, 1923, in Berlin, the son of Hedy Weitz and Robert Salomon Weitz, an infantry hero in World War I who was awarded the Iron Cross. Robert Weitz became a successful businessman who was part of the social set in Berlin described by Christopher Isherwood.

John Weitz and his parents, who were Jewish, moved to England after Hitler came to power. He attended St. Paul's School in London. John Weitz came to the United States in 1939, his son said. In 1944, at the age of 21, he joined the O.S.S., returning to his native land for what he called "sensitive work."

In 1954 he founded John Weitz Designs. After beginning his career creating women's sportswear, he decided to enter the menswear arena in 1964, making impassioned pleas for function in men's clothing, such as lightweight, crease-resistant suits.

In 1964 he married Susan Kohner, Lana Turner's co-star in "Imitation of Life."

His company was known in the 1980's for its witty advertisements that appeared on the backs of 200 city buses, with messages like "She ditched him — JOHN WEITZ ties and all," or "I don't understand John Weitz advertising. You're kidding." In 1994 he donated his advertising space to Phoenix House, the drug-abuse service agency where he served as a board member.

Mr. Weitz wrote at least five books, including "Hitler's Diplomat: The Life and Times of Joachim von Ribbentrop," a biography of the German bon vivant who served as Hitler's ambassador to London. Von Ribbentrop was foreign minister from 1938 until the end of World War II. He was hanged in 1946 for war crimes.

Mr. Weitz also wrote "Hitler's Banker"; "Man in Charge: The Executive's Guide to Grooming, Manners, and Travel," a bestseller in 1974; and two novels, "Friends in High Places" and "The Value of Nothing."

In a 1992 interview with The Times, Mr. Weitz said he could not count the number of times he was asked how he reconciled the dichotomy between designing and writing about such serious topics. "As Shakespeare said, `One man in his time plays many roles,' " he said. "And who else but a fashion designer would understand such a worldly man?"

He enjoyed auto racing, driving at Sebring in 1955, 1956 and 1957, and was a member of the New York Yacht Club. He was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1971.

His sons Paul and Christopher were the co-directors of the movies "American Pie," "Down to Earth," and "About a Boy."

Recently, Mr. Weitz was rewriting a novel based on the life of Max Schmeling, a German boxer, Christopher Weitz said.

In addition to his sons Paul and Christopher, he is survived by his wife, Susan Kohner Weitz, and two children from his previous marriage to Sally Gould: Karen Weitz Curtis and Robert Weitz. He is also survived by a granddaughter.

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