Re: V8 into LJ /LC -- Holden Torana Website Message Board

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Date Posted: 20:38:52 10/28/02 Mon
Author: peter
Subject: Re: V8 into LJ /LC
In reply to: Mark 's message, "V8 into LJ /LC" on 04:19:57 11/06/00 Mon

Tech Help & Tips - LC/LC V8 conversion

Mounting a front away bar by Enderwiggenau
LC/LJ V8 conversion by Would Beee
-------------

V8 conversion on LC/LJ Torana using Red and Blue non EFI motors.

Before you start there are a few things to check:

The laws regarding conversions differ from state to state
Ring your RTA office to ensure the engine of your choice is allowed to be fitted as an after-market modification
Check with an engineer that you will be able to bounce things off him as you do the job
Make sure he will provide an engineer�s report for you on completion
Remove the engine, gearbox/transmission, steering column, tail shaft, radiator, brake booster, and if you are changing the diff remove that as well.

The first thing you should do is replace the sump as the V8 sump won�t fit in the engine bay (contrary to popular belief). I used a high volume 7-litre sump from Supaplus in Hallam for around $275.00.

For the purpose of fitting a standard exhaust the steering column base should be moved were it goes through the floor

Depending on who you use to fit The exhaust the column may knot even need moving and if you fit extractors it almost certainly doesn't need moving. Moved sideways towards the driver�s side about one inch (you may need to elongate the holes to allow this) and replace the rubber knuckle with a steel knuckle from an LX or LH V8. NOT THE CANVAS ONE! You need to fit an extra knuckle at the rack end of the column. The shaft needs to be cut and a keyway ground in it so the cotter pins can take hold. This cut and grind is done cold, if you heat it up the shaft will be weakened. It is possible to fit the knuckle about four inches up the shaft. It�s very tight but it will fit I prefer to have it close to the rack. So if this is your choice you can have the cut-out in the rack made a little bigger.

So that you can have the knuckle basically sit in the rack cut-out PROFESSIONAL WELDING ON THIS COMPONENT no back yarders as the cross member is the bit that you cut and weld. When it comes to the column there are several ways to compensate for the base movement it is possible to move the entire rack by elongating the holes that hold it on but remember to only go towards the driver�s side about half a centre meter. You don�t need to move it much as the geometry is only out a little bit and the steering is hard to turn not completely locked if you move it more than an inch this second option doesn�t apply and dual knuckle must be fitted.

You can see in the picture What i mean by moved to the drivers side about 1 inch.

Picture courtesy of Melvosh

As in the picture above you can see that the accelerator pedal has been removed to allow fitting of a cable operated assembly.

Picture courtesy of Melvosh

It is my opinion that the lower knuckle should be a steel unit like the top one.

So you�ve made it this far. Next is the starter motor again 2 options for you there is more but these are the easiest. First and easiest is a VN V8 gear reduction unit / starter motor they bolt straight in. You can also grind the top of the radius arm but this isn�t my choice and have it welded so it doesn�t split I have seen this done and it looks fine but you just never would trust it.

Next is the brake booster it must be changed to a dual diaphragm unit. It is possible to move the entire unit to another location in the car but I just bent the support that holds it still and pushed it over to clear the rocker covers (you may knot need to move this at all depending on your rocker covers) I used standard chrome low rocker covers as the high ones don�t fit and it clears by about half an inch. For a look at how the booster can be moved just check out an old Holden or some thing along those lines as they have a remote units. It is up to the engineer on the day to decide about brake lines but I just wrapped them with some heatproof tape like the stuff you put round your extractors it is a great heat shield.

REMEMBER, If you don�t wrap them they will boil and you will crash definitely.

Next is the gear shifter if you use an Aussie four speed you can get special linkages from most hot rod shops to suit but there is an alternative that is quite cool. Turn the brackets on the box the other way up they don�t touch and it saves you money ***BUT*** the H pattern now works like this:

In the old first pos is second

In the old second is first

In the old third pos is fourth

In the old fourth is third

So instead of pulling it into second you push it in much better in my opinion. Instead of pushing into third you pull. This is just my opinion but I really think after driving like this for about an hour it is much better AND QUICKER.

Ok so we have done most of the asshole jobs but we do have one more.

The clutch

I used the original mechanics and linkages for mine it is perfect and doesn�t even have a hint of breaking on me. All I did was were the bracket bolts on to the bell housing (the bit you forgot to undo when you took out the engine) drill an extra hole to mount the tension bar you will see that there is a bracket bolted to the bell housing and there is another piece of steel witch mounts to that this is the tension bar it keeps tension on the linkages you will see that the long piece has a hole drilled in it were a pin goes through you have to make it so this Bar doesn�t touch the cross member. You cant get enough adjustment to have even a usable clutch without making another hole.

It is fairly simple to fit a hydraulic unit but is expensive. The hole is drilled in the bracket about half a centimetre back not the bell housing or the tension bar.

So you think it might be easy from now guess again. You can fit the engine and knot have to bye any extra expensive bits I used normal v8 engine mounts But I had to do a little grinding. Before you fit the mounts to the engine fit the mounts to the car you will see that the passenger side doesn�t sit down properly it touches the cross member. I just took out the grinder and ground the slot in the cross member a little deeper about half a centre meter. Rub with a file and squirt with paint. You can use nearly all of the sender units of the six as in oil pressure temp as they are specific to your gauges not your engine. You can even use your six alternator just cut up the bracket that came with your new motor. It will bolt to the top most hole in the front of the head and the tension bracket will go to the water pump bolts any one that you can make it fit it will need a slot cut in it and a bend. I used an extra long fan belt.

At this stage if I haven�t left anything out you could start to fit the mounts to the engine and lower it in. While you lower the engine make sure you don�t break you heater box this can be removed if you get worried it is simple. Once you have the engine in you can fit the box have someone hold the weight with a rope through the shifter hole this makes fitting a breeze.

I bought my box and motor joined together so it was simple to fit. Just remove the box from the engine leave the clutch on the flywheel fit the engine then fit the bell housing to the engine then slide the box into the bell housing. Just give it a wiggle while someone holds the weight and it should slip straight in. If you have removed the clutch you will have a great deal of wiggling to do an alignment tool is suggested to fit clutch. Put the tail shaft in and turn it to get it to line-up (the input shaft with the clutch plate) fit engine then bell housing then box simple.

Ok these tips are for fitting auto trans to an LC/LJ V8.

When fitting time comes leave the engine and trans joined as there may knot be enough room later to fit the trans. Remove alternator heads fuel pump oil pump and anything else that could get in the way while fitting. The reason for removing the heads is strictly for weight reasons it�s a lot to hold and it does allow you to see in a bit better

***Don�t try and tilt the engine backwards to fit box/trans afterwards as the engine mounts will peel apart and the engine fall backwards into the tunnel and it is VERY hard to get it out again and also it makes a fantastic mess of your fire wall fly wheel ring gear brake lines the list goes on.

So once the engine is in and the box/trans attached its time to make sure that it doesn�t get hot. I used a standard V8 radiator out of a HQ. On the sides of the radiator there are two flaps of steel. You will need to cut these up a bit to get them past the chassis. I cut almost all the way. Leave about 5 inches of flap at the top to bolt it to the car. On the bottom just make up a couple of brackets. I was told that this is a MUST DO the lower brackets must be welded on to the body. But I have seen them just screwed on (so check with the engineer of your choice)

The two flaps should almost sit on the chassis rails. Don't let it rub or it will rust.

As you can see in the picture it should look like this when you have cut it up.

OK to clarify things all the work for the steering and the starter motor must be done prior fitting engine. The steering column can be fitted last but the work must be done first. It is tricky. It can be done after but shit what a hassle. Shifter after fitting. Brakes after fitting. Same with the clutch.

The next thing is the stuff to get an engineers report. You must have the following to get one.

Chassis kit:

Front cross member brace

Loop for the tail shaft to stop it digging in the ground when it snaps a uni

H/duty diff center V8

Dual diaphragm brake booster and disk upgrade

Steel knuckle for steering 2 not 1

Chassis kit as pictured below is the recommended MUST for this conversion and you can get one from the Castlemaine Rod Shop

At this stage it is very close to getting an exhaust. Don�t be ripped off if it costs more than $350 go elsewhere. That�s what it cost me for a complete system with the standard manifolds 2� is big enough when you only have one muffler. I used an LX on the passenger side and a commodore on the drivers.

Suspension needs changing just put Monroe gas in with the V8 springs from peddlers $135 a pair. Rear end is your choice doesn�t matter as long as it works.

Next tip that you don�t get told BODYDEADEN THE HOLE CAR LOTS BEFORE YOU START.

Things not to do

Don�t grind your block unless absolutely necessary and if you do don�t grind of any lugs or holes or your motor is stuffed

Don�t grind the column with a regular grinder it will get hot and the cotter pins will bend and stretch the shaft and become very loose then it to is stuffed

Don�t cut any holes in your floor till you are damn sure they are right because they will need welding not pop rivets to fix it

Don�t guess check then check again

DON�T DO ANYTHING UNTIL YOU SPEAK TO AN ENGINEER

DON�T DO ANYTHING TILL YOU SPEAK TO THE RTA

DOUBLE CHECK EVERY THING WITH YOUR ENGINEER PRIOR TO CUTTING OR WHATEVER

It may seem like I go on a bit about the Engineer BUT if you don�t keep him happy you will never drive your car on the roads legally. Do yourself a big favour and speak to an engineer first I don�t want to get emails saying you helped me stuff up my car.

Text from the RTA web site in Victoria

Where it is intended to fit an engine which is significantly different from that offered by the manufacturer as original or an option, (e.g. four to six cylinder or six to eight cylinder), then a comprehensive Engineer's report is required on completion of the modification providing evidence that the vehicle in its modified form is safe and meets all the applicable construction and emission regulations for that model. It is recommended that an Engineer is consulted before commencement of this type of modification. Hopefully there will be a link to Melvosh's page with all the info we need to do a EFI conversion in the same model and maybe we could find someone that has done a Chevy small block and a super charged V6 motor.

hope that helps ya

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Replies:

Re: V8 into LJ /LC -- mathew aalders, 05:39:35 04/16/03 Wed