REPORT #9, Fairing and moving on -- MOA

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Date Posted: - Monday - 03/24/08 - 3:02am
Author: Randall ()
Author Host/IP: c-69-181-42-112.hsd1.ca.comcast.net / 69.181.42.112
Subject: REPORT #9, Fairing and moving on
In reply to: Randall, M31, Murre 's message, "Aft Cabin Bulkhead Replacement" on - Monday - 01/21/08 - 9:56pm

Maybe this is a truism, but there comes a point when a long project ceases to be fun. As this is only my second “full winter” endeavor, I hesitate to suggest there is a predictable interval at which this transition occurs, but I will submit that when the weather changes, when happy, laughing people dressed in shorts and flip flops and carrying cases of beer begin to invade the dock, heading toward boats THAT THEN UNMOOR—no boat in this marina has done that for months—and proceed slowly but with great anticipation down that glassy, sun drenched road to the bay, it causes one to sigh more than a little and wonder at the wisdom of owning a “classic” boat.

“You knew this would happen,” I tell myself as the sander whines so loud as to wake the dead, and this on an Easter Sunday morning, “but two weekends on the water and you’ll forget this trouble. That is the magic of memory—it forgets.” I also note that the good weather is untimely. It’s not even April. Surely there’s more, welcome bad weather between us and this summer’s day.

___

Spent most of the early afternoon sanding up the bulkhead in preparation for fairing. I had failed to tape and paper the cockpit deck before last week’s messy round. When I did recall, it was too late—the epoxy was kicking. The spill sanded off without too much fuss, but I hadn’t liked to be that sloppy, so I took special care for the fairing round.

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I used the “finger pad” accessory for the Fein Multi-Master to sand under the companionway hatch and was pleased with how it turned out.

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Quite a lot of epoxy had gone into the “trough” between the bulkhead and the leading edge of the deck, but the depth had turned out uneven, so I used the “grouting” tool on the Multi Master to make an even depth of about a half inch and to remove the epoxy blush. This area will later be filled with black LIQUID Life Calk.

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Several coats of Smith’s on the porthole's exposed edges.

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After a wash with fiberglass solvent, the whole exterior was coated lavishly with West System 410 Microlight fairing compound.

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And next day I ground most of it off with a large orbital sander and 80 grit paper.

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The bulkhead will require another pass with fine paper before painting, but beyond that, it’s ready, so have moved on to other projects, namely the starboard side divider between the cabin and the engine room where a quarter berth might have been.

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On Murre this divider (it’s not really a proper bulkhead at moment) is a mere 1/2” and very chewed up with rot. So the battery switch and other electrics were easily removed.

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The Multi Master made easy work of the tabbing on both sides of the divider. Interestingly, on the forward side (visible here) the tabbing was simply a very light layer of cloth over the hull insulation, while on the aft side the tabbing was something like 18 oz cloth and laid into the hull. For 18 oz cloth, one could have wished for a slightly more substantial piece of plywood.

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Of course, we soon ran into the ubiquitous ring nails, used to fasten the top and inboard side of the divider to its frame. Because of these nails, I ran a cut just outside the vertical inboard frame in order to free the divider, and then came back with the Multi Master, chisels and large pliers to clean out the ply and nails left behind.

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Here the divider is out and the area is in its first stages of prep. Note two 1/4stripes running vertically along the hull. The one on the right is the remainder of the thick cloth tabbing that held the divider in place from its after side. To the left of that I’ve cleared about a 3” swath of the hull’s insulation because I intend to tab heavily on both sides of the new divider, which, once in, I will call a bulkhead.

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Last edited by author: Thu April 03, 2008 22:06:23 Edited 4 times.

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Replies:

[> [> Oil based stain for the slats vs not -- Randall, - Monday - 03/24/08 - 3:26pm (204-16-158-68-static.ipnetworksinc.net/204.16.158.68)

Mark, Bruce,

You both mention using oil based stains for renewing the slat color. Is there an advantage to oil based stain vs what's more easily available?

I've been experiemnting with Minwax stains and have a pretty good match with two parts Colonial Maple (222) and one part Sedona Red (223).

Any reason I should hold out for oil base?

RR

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[> [> Oil base stain -- Mark, (Aeolus), - Monday - 03/24/08 - 6:35pm (pool-72-91-90-224.tampfl.dsl-w.verizon.net/72.91.90.224)

Randall, once again I envy your drive, the project looks great! The only reason I used an "oil base' was 19 years ago in '89 IT was the most easily available. I'm no expert but for the interior I think you'll be fine.

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[> [> [> Staining Iterior Slats -- Bruce, - Thursday - 03/27/08 - 3:19pm (209-204-141-75.dsl.static.sonic.net/209.204.141.75)

Oil based stain blends much better with varnish, and can be thinned out with brushing thinner prior to application. I used a mixture of Zar dark mahagony and red cherry with some brushing thinner mixed in and got a very good match.

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