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Mon, December 06 2021, 03:14Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 12[3]45678910 ]


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Date Posted: - Friday - 03/19/10 - 8:53pm
Author: Randall
Subject: Replacing Packing Gland Material
In reply to: Randall, Murre, M31 's message, "Replacing Packing Gland Material" on - Friday - 03/19/10 - 8:52pm


7. For replacement stuffing, we used ¼” GTU (Murre’s shaft is 1 1/8” diameter), an entirely synthetic weave of Gortex impregnated with Teflon. It looks like gooey chain mail rope and feels like snake skin. The plan was to do the first and third ring with GTU, but to use a paste of moldable packing called SYNTEF in the middle. This stuff looks like sticks of green putty and is essentially grease mixed with Teflon microfibers.





8. Ken cut the GTU to size based on one of the old pieces he felt had fit most snuggly. The two bitter ends must match up. One on Murre, he noted, was obviously too short.

9. Next he greased the GTU piece lavishly with the grease from the SYNTEF kit.

10. Inserting the GTU into the nut was difficult. The threads on Murre’s packing nut were very sharp, and so Ken used a small metal punch tool to help push the stuffing into place. Then he screwed the nut down by hand to ensure it seated properly.

11. Once the nut was backed off again, Ken shaped the SYNTEF putty to the approximate size and length of the GTU piece and then stuffed it in the nut.

12. This was followed by a repeat of step 10, and it was equally difficult, but once stuffing the outer ring of GTU in place had revealed a few threads, Ken hand tightened the nut into place, and the leaking suddenly dried up to nothing.

13. Ken had applied some of the SYNTEF grease to the packing nut threads before synching it in place for the last time with channel locks and promised it would not seize up again.

14. Just after I he left, I ran the engine in gear for 15 minutes. The nut got very hot and squeezed out a significant amount of packing. I called Ken who said the squeezing out of excess packing was normal for the first run, but the heating up was not. “The nut should not be hot to the touch. That’s too tight. It won’t hurt the shaft or nut, but prolonged heating will shorten the life of the packing. Let it cool. Run the engine again, and if it’s hot again, back the nut off a tiny bit, just 1/16 of an inch. That little bit will create a lot of space in the nut. I ran the engine again later and the nut did not heat up.

So, that’s today’s learning.

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Replies:

[> [> Packing -- Doug Wilson, - Saturday - 03/20/10 - 1:18am

I used the Gortex packing, I have heard some say it scores the shaft, but after three years there was no scoring.
Went back to flax packing in November, without the no drip stuff, no drips.
One thing that's handy is a laser thermometer, a safe way to check the packing. Once it's broken in, should be good. On leaving San Carlos, the packing nut got up to 155 F, but cooled to the same temperature as the shaft after an hour. Right now the shaft temp runs about 86F and the packing nut about the same.


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