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Sun, December 05 2021, 00:24Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 12[3]45678910 ]


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Date Posted: - Tuesday - 05/ 4/10 - 5:43pm
Author: Randall
Subject: cut and splice, I think
In reply to: Terry Bradlow (Sea Voyager) 's message, "Grab Rails on Interior" on - Monday - 05/ 3/10 - 11:41pm

Hey Terry,

First off, a nearly infinite number of words on the subject to the contrary, I'm no expert here, but my opinion is that the anchoring frame is just that, the anchor for the deck, cabin side, grab rail, etc., and is not the main supporting element. For one thing, it's too damn small to lend too much in the way of strength on its own. I think the strength comes from all the frame's components being fastened together strongly.

So, I'd splice in a piece as you reference, but I'd also try to add a strenghtening element, like thickly taping with glass the top (already accessible) and inboard side of the anchoring frame between the hanging knee and the head bulkhead (I'm assuming that when you mention "first window" you mean in the main cabin and not in the head). I'd generousy overlap the new joints, and I'd lay one width of tape over both sides (not one for the top and one for the side). In fact, if you re-attached the the grab rail before the epoxy sets, then the rail could also function as a strengthening element.

Of course, it would be much better if you could replace the entire run of frame, but that's the entire length of the cabin and thus may be beyond scope.

My opinion.

RR

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Replies:

[> [> Grab Rails on Interior -- Terry, - Tuesday - 05/ 4/10 - 5:59pm

Hey Randall thats what I kind of had in mind and yes its the first window in the main cabin. Your right to do the whole anchor rail would be a royal pain. I want to remove the grab rail so that I have access and room to work. I just don't want to crack or bust up the grab rail in the process of removing it. Thanks for the advice
Terry


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[> [> [> plug removal -- Steve M-32 SEAN O'SEA, - Tuesday - 05/ 4/10 - 7:17pm

Generally speaking on boats (and true for my Mariner at least) is that the plugs are "glued" in with varnish. You don't want to pry them from the edges because you will dent the surrounding wood. The best way I've seen is to cut teh head off of a screw, chuck it in a drill or a brace and slowly run the screw through the center of the plug. That should pull it out or break it up and make the pieces easier to remove. You will have to make new plugs but that isn't too difficult with the right cutter.


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[> [> [> [> Plugs -- Terry Bradlow (Sea Voyager), - Tuesday - 05/ 4/10 - 11:11pm

Thanks Steve for the advice, I agree prying would not be a good thing for the wood. My wood is dark and I'll have to look hard finding the plugs.
Terry


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[> [> [> [> another option -- Randall, - Wednesday - 05/ 5/10 - 6:17pm

Another alternative is to rebore the **plug** hole with the next largest size and then cut plugs to that size (you can use the same size drill bit with a larger plug boring tool attached).

If you do find the current plugs and decide to remove them and replace with the same size plug (which I've done on Murre), and if you are really careful with the removal, the new plugs will fit OK. Under circumstances like this, I've sometimes glued up the new ones w/epoxy and a little thickener like calloidal cilica to fill in the gaps.


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[> [> [> [> [> Use an ice pick auger -- bruce, - Thursday - 05/ 6/10 - 2:01pm

The cut-off screw approach can work if there is enough "meat" on the plug left after the top was cut off flush. Often times there is not. Most of the time the plug will split in two or three pieces simply by poking an auger point into the center, and giving it a slight lever action -then the pieces can fairly easily be "dug" out without damaging the surrounding wood. Randall's suggestion of replacing with the next larger plug size is a good option, and often necessary - depending on the fastener size used to suck down the hand rail. Sometimes even after carefully removing all of the plugs, the fastener head will cause a bit of the surrounding wood to split off - if the fastener head is the same size as the bung.


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[> [> [> [> [> [> Bungs -- Mark, M31 ,Aeolus, - Thursday - 05/ 6/10 - 5:18pm

Bruce is right. Most bungs can be removed by prying from the center of the bung. I've had the best luck by using a very small standard screwdriver and a light hammer working w/the grain. The key is to only pry on the bung itself, removing the center then working the two sides. It's a slow process and then as Bruce says the screw itself must be removed carefully. Good Luck


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[> [> [> [> [> [> [> Thanks -- Terry Bradlow (Sea Voyager), - Thursday - 05/ 6/10 - 8:51pm

Thanks Guys for all the advice its going to make things much easier for me, at least I hope...
Terry


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[> [> [> [> [> [> [> [> It's Therapeutic -- Bruce, - Friday - 05/ 7/10 - 12:44pm

Once you get started, it becomes almost therapeutic. I recommend turning on some music while you work. Have fun :)


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