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Tue, April 23 2024, 03:09 [ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1, 2, [3], 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 ]

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Date Posted: - Wednesday - 09/ 1/10 - 8:27pm
Author: Randall, Murre, M31
Subject: Good Grief--Try This!
In reply to: andrew bradley 's message, "bow sprit / dodger" on - Wednesday - 09/ 1/10 - 5:48pm

Golly, that's expensive--needlesly expensive.

Both Bruce (Gitana Vela, M31) and I replaced our sprits last year. He first--I followed. But I wrote up the install, which is SUPER EASY.

Here is what I have to say about that: http://www.marineryachts.com/projects/murre/bowsprit/Bowsprit%20Installation.htm

We both had the sprit made for us, but we pulled the old and put the new one in ourselves. We varnished and punched all the holes, etc. If I remember right, I paid $900 for the Sprit and a set of spreaders.

The old is, as you say, laminated Sitka Spruce. Lamination ***may*** be stronger, don't know, but for eons spars have not been laminated and have held up just fine. And it's the lamintation that drove some of the rot on my stick. So we went with a one piece spar.

We couldn't find Sitka Spruce easliy, so we used clear Douglas Fur, a little heavier but a very common mast and spar material in the west.

I know of one guy who used teak because he didn't want to worry about dry rot again and couldn't source anything better (he was in a remote part of Japan). Not recommending, just pointing out that, at the end of the day, you can use whatever wood you have.

Good luck,

RR

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Replies:

[> [> Good Grief -- Bruce, - Friday - 09/ 3/10 - 3:23pm

FYI - I also raised the bowsprit up off the deck slightly when I reinstalled it. When I did this I found some rotten deck material below it, so had to replace it and glass it in with x-mat.


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[> [> [> rotten bowsprit -- andrew bradley, - Thursday - 10/14/10 - 12:04am

Gidday Bruce
I just had a look at the photos of your new bowsprit.
You have an M31.
I have an M40.
My bow sprit is huge by comparison.
Probably 6 or 7" square where it buts up against the samson post and is around 8 to 9' long.
It's a hefty piece of timber protruding a good 5' from the bow.
Andrew


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[> [> [> [> M40 Bow Sprit -- Terry Bradlow (Sea Voyager), - Thursday - 10/14/10 - 4:22pm

Took my M40 bow sprit off and found some rot in it,my bother in law and I are going to take it apart and try to use it as a template to make a new one. I'm thinking douglas fir for wood. It looks like the sprit is made with several pieces of wood put together square for the body and then rounds out at the end. Its nothing like an M31 sprit. It really does not look to complicated to reproduce. I'm bringing the boat home from NC to Florida after the holidays so that I can work on it more myself. I'm sick and tired of paying out my but* for carpenters to do work up there. Let me know how you make out with yours ... Not to much on here about the M40's


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[> [> rotten bow sprit -- andrew bradley, - Wednesday - 10/13/10 - 11:38pm

Well guys, I really appreciate the response.
I still haven't had time to do anything so far as we have just moved to vancouver Island.
Yes 7Gs is quite pricey and that was just to build and replace.
I still have to remove it.
I'm still asking about here on the Island but I might just end up going south with the Loonie coming on par with the greenback and have it built for me and install it myself if it means saving six grand that I could use on other projects.
Thanks for the info.


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[> [> [> Bow Sprit Repair -- Brett Clibbery, - Thursday - 10/28/10 - 9:32am

I have just had a bow sprit on my downeaster 38 repaired and am quite happy. The estimate for replacement was a similar amount, about 7 G's.
I cut out the rot and laminated a new piece in. The original wood is honduras Mahogany so used the same. Cost was 7 hundred instead. Even a full replacement shouldn't cost you more than 1 G and your time. Best to get a 4 by 8 clear fir beam to start. Cut the port and starboard to match original shape. get a second piece to match thickness of inboard end. Wedge this piece to get thickness of outboard end and after matching first piece on sides. Laminate together. You can start the end piece with a deep hole saw the size of your fitting. Mine is 3 inches. Mark the depth you need and with a sharp chiesel and some a good sander you can make the end. This piece will be as strong as the original and you made it. There are a few good woodshops in Vancouver if your in that area who stock the wood you will need. Good Luck.


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