[ Show ]
Support VoyForums
[ Shrink ]
VoyForums Announcement:
Programming and providing support for this service has been a labor
of love since 1997. We are one of the few services online who values our users'
privacy, and have never sold your information. We have even fought hard to defend your
privacy in legal cases; however, we've done it with almost no financial support -- paying out of pocket
to continue providing the service. Due to the issues imposed on us by advertisers, we
also stopped hosting most ads on the forums many years ago. We hope you appreciate our efforts.
Show your support by donating any amount. (Note: We are still technically a for-profit company, so your
contribution is not tax-deductible.)
PayPal Acct: 
Feedback: 
Donate to VoyForums (PayPal):
| Wed, April 24 2024, 21:13 |
[ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search |
Check update time
| Archives: 1, 2, 3, 4, [5], 6, 7, 8, 9 ]
|
[ Next Thread |
Previous Thread |
Next Message |
Previous Message ]
Date Posted: - Sunday - 01/11/09 - 1:22pm
Author: Lyle Harris
Subject: Ipe for toerail?
The toerail on Starlight (an M31) is broken and soft in a number of areas. I'm thinking of Ipe as a super strong, saltwater resistant alternative to the more costly teak. anyone have experience with Ipe? I know it's very stiff, which might be challenging to curve into shape. I may have to build up the toerail in thin strips with epoxy.
[
Next Thread |
Previous Thread |
Next Message |
Previous Message
]
Replies:
[>
Ipe toe rail -- James Scheh, - Monday - 01/12/09 - 12:36am
Lyle
I used ipe for my new samson posts on my M-31(new name on the way). I am a general contractor in S.F. And have been working with ipe on decks for years. I don't think you would have any trouble getting the bend you need for the toe rail. As far as its durability. Ipe would be like a rot proof white oak if there was such a thing. It is also very hard to glue or epoxy because of density and all the oils in it. I would assume that it would not take varnish well either. When it weathers it looks much like teak silver grey but doesn't show it's grain like unfinished teak will. You can also buy it in lengths up to 20'.
James
[ Edit | View ]
[> [>
Ipe -- Lyle Harris, - Monday - 01/12/09 - 12:57pm
Hi James, thanks for the endorsement of Ipe for boat work. I've been wondering how it would perform. I think that's what I'm going to use on the toe rail, and put the joints as far forward as possible, where the hull line is straighter, and sees less traffic.
I've only seen this material in 3/4 inche thickness for deck planking. Ideally, I'd like to find 1.5" thick pieces, or 2x4s that I can shape. I'll have to check in with my local suppliers.
I checked the samson posts on my boat. they're still very solid, the but the copper nails on those little post caps have mostly come out.
thanks,
Lyle.
[ Edit | View ]
[>
Ipe -- Steve m-32 #59, - Monday - 01/12/09 - 2:09pm
There really isn't a problewm with Ipe per se but something to keep in mind is the weight of the woods you are using. Even though we sail tanks we don't need to weigh our boats down more than they already are. Ipe is an extremely heavy wood and while it will work for certain applications I would be reluctant to use lots of it just simply for the weight.
[ Edit | View ]
[> [>
Ipe -- Dan M32 Independence, - Thursday - 01/15/09 - 12:40am
Steve,
I agree with you, ipe is very heavy and I would think twice about putting very much on my boat.
Dan
[ Edit | View ]
[> [> [>
Ipe seem not a good alternative. Other recomendations? -- Lyle Harris, - Thursday - 01/15/09 - 12:44pm
Gentlemen,
I'm in agreement with you both that Ipe would be too heavy, and while it's very rot resistant, not a good alternative. If you have any wood species that you'd recommend as alternative to the super expensive teak, I'd love to know. I would imagine that there's a list of marine worthy woods that I might find on the 'net.
[ Edit | View ]
[> [> [> [>
Alternative woods -- Steve M-32 #59, - Thursday - 01/15/09 - 6:24pm
From a practical point try to keep in mind what teak is good for on a boat. Its' primary use is as a decking material because it has non-skid properties. It is beautiful when varnished but that is more an aesthetic consideration rather than a practical one. So, if you're willing to have the look of another wood a mahogany would be excellent, either Honduras, African, or one of the better Phillipine varieties like Meranti. If it's not going to take much abuse from walking, Red Cedar would be a good choice, Yellow would be even better and both are available locally. If you're willing to keep it varnished, Doug Fir would work quite well also. As you can see there are a lot of choices and it just depends on where you want to come down on the cost, durability, maintenance scale.
[ Edit | View ]
[ Contact Forum Admin ]
Forum timezone: GMT-5
VF Version: 3.00b, ConfDB:
Before posting please read our privacy policy.
VoyForums(tm) is a Free Service from Voyager Info-Systems.
Copyright © 1998-2019 Voyager Info-Systems. All Rights Reserved.
|
|
