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Date Posted: - Monday - 03/ 2/09 - 12:41pm
Author: Capt'n Mike "Gypsy Mariner" TM36K
In reply to:
's message, "Starter" on - Monday - 03/ 2/09 - 9:52am
The following is qualified as it is based on my boat (a Tayana Mariner 36) and the location of it's starter on the 4-108. I have replaced two starters on Gypsy Mariner's 4-108.
You can replace just the solenoid - if that is, if fact, the problem. You should take the starter off and bring it to an local auto-electric shop for testing (about $5.00 here). A re-build will run about $180 or so. Frequently you can find rebuilt starters on ebay for less, but you will need to make sure that you get a starter with the right number of teeth and rotation. My starter on the 4-108 is a 12 tooth, counter-clockwise. You will see 10 tooth and clock-wise rotation for some Perkins 4-108/107 engines so make sure you get the right one.
If the cost of the rebuild is close to the cost of one on ebay, you may want to go with the rebuild at your local auto-electric shop since they will probably offer some sort of warranty, i.e. 30 days.
There are various books written on how to trouble shoot starter problems and I assume that you have eliminated all other causes (low battery, ingnition wiring, etc.) before coming to the conclusion that the starter needs to be changed. If you have good access to your starter you are very lucky and can even jump the terminals to determine if the solenoid is bad. However, on my boat access is horrible (it's low and against the port side of the engine compartment bulkhead) and when I've eliminated all the other possible cause for starter problems - I remove the starter for further testing.
I hope that your access is better than mine because to remove/replace my starter I need to drain the cooling system, remove the fresh-water header tank, and remove the exhaust manifold. If you have done this before, it will take the entire weekend. If you haven't done it before, it will take longer (depending on access) as you may need special tools such as a 2 to 3 foot socket extension (to reach the starter mounting bolts), extending magnet rod for when you drop the bolts, thin wall sockets (if you can find them) or short wrench set and lot of patience. Removing the exhaust manifold is a job in and of itself as the flanges as built in such a way (too thick) as to interfere with most normal tools you would use to remove the exhaust manifold bolts. You might also need to spray the exhaust manifold bolts generously with WD-40 or similar and wait 24 hours to remove if they haven't been removed recently. I would highly recommend loosening these bolts and retightening at least once a season as part of your regular maintenance so that they are removable when the need arises. Last time I was tempted to take a grinder to the portion of the flanges of the aluminium exhaust maniford that interfere with using normal wrenches and sockets. I think you will need 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8" sizes to work on this, but I may be forgetting a smaller size. I forgot the size of the exhaust manifold bolts at this time, but I wrote it down in my tool box.
Good luck, I hope you starter is accessible, and make sure you eliminate all other potential problems before you go forward with pulling the starter.
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