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Mon, June 17 2024, 10:40Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 123456[7]89 ]

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Date Posted: - Friday - 03/28/08 - 7:52am
Author: Peter Karczmar
Subject: M40 Keel

I'm curious if anyone has had problems with their iron keel? I've been reading a lot of negative comments (Practical Sailor) about iron keels rusting internally and becoming structurally unsound. I repalced the keel bolts on our 1968 M40 but haven't noticed any problems with the keel itself. Has anyone used any type of barrier paint or epoxy coatings on their keel? Thanks.

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[> We saw`ours -- Chuck, - Friday - 03/28/08 - 1:41pm

Had the opportunity to open mine about two years ago. Sea Trek's keel was laid in 1978 and we saw very little to no rust. I suppose it really depends on the integrity of the hull. Of course we are fiberglass. It appears the iron ingot was wrapped in fiberglass mat and the cavity filled with resin.

See "about the boat" at http://sea-trek.blogspot.com

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[> Rusting keel -- Steve Burge, - Friday - 03/28/08 - 7:23pm

Now I'm worried. I have a 68 M31 hull #55. While replacing the Sampson posts, I noticed a small amount of brown color (what looked like rust) seeping through the fiberglass where the posts sit into the front of the hull. Without tearing into the fiberglass, I'm not sure of the extent of the rust being a potential problem. I would be interested in your process of replacing the keel bolts, perhaps I could get a better feel for the extent of this possible keel problem.

Is it hard to replace these bolts and basically how did you do it?

Much appreciated, thanks


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[> [> not sure -- chuck, - Saturday - 03/29/08 - 12:49am

I am not totally sure about your boat but our sampson post is miles away from the keel ballast.

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[> [> keel cavities -- Steve M-32 #59, - Saturday - 03/29/08 - 1:06am

On the fiberglass 31 and 32 (and presumably on the fiberglass others) there are no keel bolts. The ballast is internal and consists of iron secured with fiberglass in a hull cavity. This type of construction can be worriesome because if water intrudes into the cavity and the iron rusts you can have the problems mentioned in the first post. If no water intrudes there are no problems and you have no worry about keel bolts or other maintenance. Everything is a tradeoff. Given the date of manufacture of the first post I think that is wood 40 and probably does have keel bolts though whether the keel is iron or lead I don't know. An external iron keel does not give you the potential problems of cracking the hull for the simple fact that it is outside the hull. Rust on the bolts could be a problem but not expansion because of rust. Steve the rust you are seeing cannot be from the keel bolts because A. you don't have any :-) and B. you are too far forward. Most likely you sre seeing rust from the lower plate for the bobstay and it should be looked at and fixed.

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[> [> Keel bolts -- Peter Karczmar, - Saturday - 03/29/08 - 9:15am

On our '68 M40 the keel bolts go directly through the keel and get pounded out once you remove giant (corroded)nuts in the bilge. Our bolts were in pretty sorry shape. We replaced them with stainless steel bolts that we had fabricated. Our water tank is mounted in the center under the sole requiring both the sole to be taken up and the tank removed to access the bolts. Although a major pain in the %&*#$, I'm glad we did it. It turns out the monel (supposedly corrosion-proof) water tank was starting to fall apart as it was supported by iron stringers resulting in galvanic corrosion. To add insult to injury, the corrosion resulted in delignification of the adjacent oak ribs, essentially turning them into shredded wheat. Because this was all occurring underneath the shiny monel tank we wouldn't have know what was going on until the tank sprang a leak, we popped a plank below the water line, or lost our keel...choose your poison. We replaced the iron stringers with fiberglass one we had fabricated to the same dimensions as the old ones and replaced the water tank with a polyethylene one.

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[> [> [> Water Tank and Bolts -- John Seyna, - Monday - 04/ 7/08 - 1:03pm

Just saw this string of comments regarding the 1968 M40. I also have a wooden 1968 Mariner (Champagne M31). I just bought her last Oct. and commented to my wife that one of the first things I need to do is pull the water tank. She and most others thought I was nuts to go through the hassle of pulling out the water tank. My reasoning was that I had no idea what was going on under that tank! A task I need to do in the next month. I'm surprised they designed the boat with no easy way to get that out. My keel bolts show rusted inside nuts, but probably will not get to replaceing them this year. Pete, how did you get the clearance to remove the bolts? Were you in a travel lift?

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[> [> [> [> Water tank and bolts -- Peter Karczmar, - Wednesday - 04/16/08 - 10:36pm

The boat was hauled out in dry dock for the work. I don't think you'll regret pulling the tank out and inspecting the keel bolts. Best of luck. Peter

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[> Steve B. Dolphin striker thru hull bolt leaking? -- Mike M-40 #61, - Tuesday - 04/ 8/08 - 5:39pm

Steve, check your dolphin striker thru hull bolt and see if it is not the source of your rust. Maybe just needs a little tlc to stop leak.

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[> [> Thanks! -- Steve B, - Tuesday - 04/ 8/08 - 7:39pm

Thanks Mike, I'll take a look.

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