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Date Posted: 05:04:38 07/01/99 Thu
Author: Barb Nailsplash
Author Host/IP: ip-91-212.ord.primenet.com / 206.165.91.212
Subject: Nailsplash Newsletter

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Hi All,
Don't forget to try out the new message bds at <a rel=nofollow target=_blank href="http://www.voy.vom/1312/">http://www.voy.vom/1312/</a> and let me know what you think!
Here is part 5 of the FAQ's from www.nailsplash.com or located directly at <a rel=nofollow target=_blank href="http://members.delphi.com/opinions/">http://members.delphi.com/opinions/</a> . Part 6, the final section of the FAQ's is next week, and then we move on to Gel Nails!
****************************** Taken directly from the pages of www.nailsplash.com (yes, it does need major editing!)........
CERTIFICATION EXAMS (Question from a tech in Canada regarding our exam procedures in the US) We do have similar exams here...first you must pass your school exam to be allowed to go on to the state exam.....each state within our country administers their own exam...when you move from state to state you need to re-qualify in the new state (which could be as simple as an easy license transfer, or taking their state exam, or even having to redo school and exam), each of these steps does involve a fee..... We also have non-compulsory tests which can be taken through the National Cosmetology Association. There are also additional fees for this, and you can take them at the local, state, and national levels. We can also take a national certification exam through NCA, again optional (and another separate fee, (and renewal requirements) but it helps to vouch for your credibility as a true nails expert with clients, and helps you to demand higher prices (kind of the same with Doctors in a way, with different accreditations they can receive that are not mandatory, but we as clients are looking for!...such as for plastic surgery, cardiology, allergists, pediatrics, etc). Unfortunately it seems as if "fees" are the way of the world. Here in Illinois, USA we must pay every 2 years to renew our nail license, and a separate fee to renew our salon license, and another for teacher’s license, plus annual business licenses to local municipalities...etc..
It is definitely each individuals right to pursue or not pursue, as it is optional....so one has to weigh the benefits obtained vs. the price.....since no one is required to take an optional certification exam (past the licensing phase), then I believe that it is fair to allow others to attain it if they desire, and feel that it is in their best interest to do so. I know personally that I learned a lot during the test taking process itself from NailsChicago, then to NailsIllinois, and then finally Nail TechAmerica. I happen to be a very competitive person, and these sorts of accreditations allow me to pursue that part of my personality in my career in a rewarding and challenging manner! take care---Barb@Nailsplash
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ SKIN PROTECTANTS I use Dermashield, another brand is Syderma. Avon also makes one, you can also check out any silicone based lotions made for mechanics...I'll check for the 800 # of the Dermashield when I get a chance (link now on links page with phone # as well). Sally's now carry's one too called "gloves in a bottle", also check w/ your local beauty supply or at a show.....
You might want to check w/ a Dr. just to be sure...because a lot (your career) is riding on this....he/she may prescribe a cortizone cream (or other Rx) to help w/ the reaction as well....and an antihistamine (like Benadryl) may also be prescribed--either in oral form or topical spray or cream. Hot water strips skin of it's natural oils (which are what protect it) and so increases the reactivity/allergic response...no hot baths or showers etc (lukewarm only, and very short duration) and limit exposure to Sodium Laureth Sulfates...the most common "foaming" agent used in shampoos, soaps,(even toothpaste) etc....but ALSO extremely drying to skin.... compare bottles of shampoo, and look for one w/ this ingredient listed further down the list (the higher up in the list, the higher the % of it). Foaming action is NOT necessary for cleansing...so don't be discouraged by the lack of suds.... I had an extremely favorable response from the skin on my ENTIRE body when I started skipping shampoo every other day in the shower (all your hairdresser associates will tell you DAILY shampooing is NOT necessary and not good for your hair....I once heard Vidal Sassoon makes his models sign a contract that they will only wash their hair no more then ONCE a week!). Also, limit your exposure to all household soaps and cleansers...and switch from hand lotions to CREAMS (like Eucerin or Aquaphor) Good luck, let us know how you do!---Barb@nailsplash
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ EDUCATION IDEAS TO TRY To start: Call your local and state cosmetology associations for their class listings. Call your State Dept of Prof Reg for approved schools and CEU providers. Next check w/ your local distributors and the class listings in Nails & Nail Pro mags.
Another great source is videos....even if they are not on your product line, or even your type of product (acrylics, gels, fiber, etc) all will give you some insight! I still rewatch my entire collection at least once a year (even though I'm an educator and disagree strongly w/ many of the "lessons") because somehow it helps me "remember" on a "conscious level" what has now become routine and "unconscious", every once in a while I still pick up a hint or tip from tapes 10 years old!
Teach someone how to do nails! I know it sounds odd, but even teaching something as simple as polish application makes you think about WHY you do things the way you do! I don't know a teacher that I've ever met anywhere who won't say that she/he comes away from every class they teach having learned something themselves!
Go to shows, and when you do, go there with NO NAILS and get 10 1 nail demos from 10 different distributors! You'll see different products and different application styles, and get to "test drive" 10 new products.
Also, consider getting YOUR NAILS DONE at OTHER salons. I have had many clients who are nail techs----after working all day who wants to do their own nails anyway? (I know it's a good advertisement, but right now you are after education!!!! If a client persists in asking just say a friend or a distributor did them, or you were a model in a class....) I have never been intimidated by having other nail techs come to me, so that's how you'll know if she/he is any good. If they are afraid of you (because you are a tech) then they probably aren't too hot anyway).
If letting on that you are a nail tech is too intimidating for you, then just make it clear when you book appts. that you are very discriminating and need their best and most efficient (timewise) tech! Find out how long they book each appt for and that too will help you determine the proficiency....if they book on 45 mins or less and are busy but ON TIME you'll probably learn something....If they book an hour or more AND are also behind w/ out any obvious reason, then they A) may not be very good &/or fast or B) have no idea how to book appts. to match their skill and ability. Yes, everyone has to start somewhere, we all did (w/ those agonizing 1 1/2 hour fills....) but you are looking for the best, someone you can learn from.
Expect to pay top dollar for these "lessons" and if the salon is 45-60 minutes away, then the better your chance for building a rapport w/ this tech AS A TECH yourself, and not just as a client!
Lastly, reread those text books: MiLady's Art & Science of Nail Technology (which I had the opportunity to help edit this last go around) and Tammy Taylor’s book is very good too! (and I only do gels!) ----------------------------------------------------------- SERVICE BREAKDOWN/FRUSTRATED TECH Yes, you have chosen the right career! Don't give up....frustration is a part of this job for life! Climates change (well here in Chicago we have shifts in temperature that range more than 100 degrees or more! 90 plus in the summer and 10 below and lower in the winter!), client’s body chemistry changes, childbirth, illness, medications, menopause... products change...etc
What you are encountering here w/ the nails separating from the old tip just as they are about to grow out is COMMON! Unfortunately, schools (and manufacturer classes as well) don't focus enough on Fill-ins, which is how ultimately we make our livings (from repeat biz, not 1 time full-set customers). (although I do know that Creative does have a Re-balance (fill) class, so check that out!)
What you are having is referred to as a service breakdown (when all 10 nails start experiencing breakage or damage of the same type at the same time).
And the good news is that the service breakdown you are having is a GLUE BREAKDOWN! ....more to come in a bit....
GLUE BREAKDOWN When the glue that holds tips on gets old, it gets brittle and starts to deteriorate. Clients who have their hands in water a lot will breakdown sooner. ----------------------------------------------------------- TIPS SEPARATING FROM THE NATURAL NAIL AS THEY GROW OUT
To combat SERVICE BREAKDOWN AS TIPS GROW OUT from the start: 1) try different types, brands, thicknesses of glues, 2) cover as little of the natural nail bed w/ tip as possible (cut back the wells if needed) thereby reducing the amount of glue used and the amount of tip overlay area to grow out. 3) make sure that you are sizing the tips correctly. Most new techs UNDERSIZE tips by a full size or so (i.e. using a 10 always on pinkies vs. most people actually need 9's and even 8's!) When an undersized tip grows out, it will want to pull away from the natural nail. When between sizes use the LARGER size, and CUSTOMIZE the tip by filing sidewalls, etc, as needed! 4) Try different brands of tips. No one tip style will work for all clients---you must stock at least 2 different brands (in addition to any French White tips you stock!) 5) YOU MUST BLEND TIPS COMPLETELY, poorly or improperly blended tips WILL LIFT 6) To avoid any possibility of the glue problem to begin with: learn how to sculpt on forms your new full-sets from the start.... 7) Check your acrylic overlay application, you may be using it too thin and wet at the sidewalls in an effort to keep them thin looking. Thin is good, but TOO WET HAS NO STRENGTH! So then you are relying on the tip for strength instead of your acrylic. If the acrylic here seems "SOFT" (where it's lifting at the sides) then that means it never cured properly because wrong liquid/powder ratios were used, a VERY common mistake.... so don't think it's just you, everybody has these types of problems, and you always need to be able to adjust your style!
OK more on "how to avoid the problem to begin with" later...What to do right now?! Do not glue the separated area, that will only postpone and increase your problems. I do NOT recommend sealing the backside with acrylic (that's a whole new conversation thread for later...)
What you need to do right now is file off ALL the lifted areas (a pain I know but worth it in the long run, first shorten the nails to reduce your filing time---I strongly recommend shortening at this stage for better long term effects), and reapply straight to the natural nail (actually a very difficult technique, everybody seems to think straight natural nail overlays are EASY. Looks easy, but doing correctly so that the free edge doesn't start to curl away is very difficult, especially if the nail is already dry or damaged). So that's why I think you'd do better off at this stage with a FORM (I like paper rectangulars in the rolls of 500, check Star Nails or Nailite Supply) underneath to help encapsulate the free edge until it grows out! (and also to give strength to the probably too thin and too weak sidewalls!) Watch your product ratios, and resculpt! Good luck!------Barb!
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See you next week, and I look forward to your questions and comments in the message bds at <a rel=nofollow target=_blank href="http://www.voy.com/1312">http://www.voy.com/1312</a> (Remember, emailing me with technical questions greatly decreases your chance of a response, as I get 100's of emails a week, most of which can never be answered---some can't even be read! But I answer all questions in my message bds---unless someone else beats me to it with a good response that would be exactly my same response, then I don't bother "duplicating" the info!) Thanks for your cooperation on the email thingee!
Take Care,
----Barb!

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