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I watch you all.
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Date Posted: 07:20:05 07/10/02 Wed
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OOOOOOLLLDKDJKDJDLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOAHAHAHHAHDolphins and cold grass.
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alalalalalala...YO........dadaaaaa.........YEAH!SUDDENLY IM NOT CRAzy!!!!!!!!fdjfhdgdjhgdfdhffioeieiorekebtekehehtSSSSSjfkdfldjfkjKNNNNNNNN eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaskkkkk kjfdf dhfjKos ses.kdfd f she comes fkdhfhdjhfkdhfjdhfiuegtwiBLack efheutueiwgtuiewgt ub WOOODS>>>>>> GREEEN
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LIKE>. fdfefjehehvbsn,_=000049374759594747bluegreen eminem...ayayaya snare.s.dskffk light green yellowwoof! hehehstuff the floor tiless roof meess in the kitched, AHRD CORe hsdjfhsjhhbb %T5th%th%%%%%%%%%%%55th5th5th5th5th5th5htdkljfsdfddfgbakbhbfldbfcjlzc7875425142545454~~~~~~````````````````~````~`1``1`jh569786473b6gCRACK IB THE LIGHT FARKS. Darks. Lights.. nutrals.. nOT A QUEEN AFTER ALL> d nfidiiiii NO FOLLOWERSjd th
follow the cow.
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it gets wporse it gets no better that this, confuse me up.http://images.webshots.com/ProThumbs/65/13465_wallpaper280.jpg src="http://www.oklahoma.net/~akita/Wolves/wolf038.jpg">
|||||||||___++++}}})))DDD-) ~&&SHAISS*jdjsK9999999458503-459948¤+=O&*^$#%&435638)**#*^#(4)@$^@#)%^7S8#*$*)0*#$*@)($&@*$^^$@&^&S787&*@&$)#$&)@@@@_&&77-E989)&#(%&_(*9S)R*E(%*#_%�sne-693867=3497040-=2kKS!!!!!!!!!!!
OOOOOOLLLDKDJKDJDLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOAHAHAHHAHDolphins and cold grass.
LOL. hiss. Meep. POOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL>fhdfhrge I HATE TYPING> NO MORE KEYBOARDING PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!! A NSEAK< fdjhfdkjhfdkshkgdjhfjsfhjkdshfdjhfjdhfjdhjfhdjfhdjlfhAJFHewrfheuhdhfjdcbdjbcdbhBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBuuuuuuuuzzzzz...fdfdbf,jkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
alalalalalala...YO........dadaaaaa.........YEAH!SUDDENLY IM NOT CRAzy!!!!!!!!fdjfhdgdjhgdfdhffioeieiorekebtekehehtSSSSSjfkdfldjfkjKNNNNNNNN eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaskkkkk kjfdf dhfjKos ses.kdfd f she comes fkdhfhdjhfkdhfjdhfiuegtwiBLack efheutueiwgtuiewgt ub WOOODS>>>>>>
“Who am I? I am I. I am Kazaorei, ruler of this land, but you may call me Rei. All are welcome here -- you may stay if you like; but I will not hold you back, should you decide to leave.”
Invade and live to regret it.
BROWN TREE> IT ATE A BEAR> BEET>
deof a black blur, and ponder what it was. Thr rain e22across a vast, green 3terr36a, one thought lingers in 5with the tail’s tip. She gives you a quick nod, and speaks
.pursuer, yet nothing lies behind. Shrugging it off, you return to walking, and you notice that some of the tree have leaves near here. Grass soon becomes the carpet underneath your feet, and a bird chirps in the distance. You catch a glimpse of a black blur, and ponder what it was. The rain stops, and water trickles down from the broad leaves of the ferns, and on the trees. Once more, you see the light -- but this time, it stays. The sun becomes visible to you, slowly creeping over the horizon. Birds chirp a merry greeting to the dawn, and you pause for a moment, then continue on. Before long, you come across a vast, green expanse. Forests, lakes, flowers, fields; it was all here. Resisting the urge to run forth and explore the terra, one thought lingers in your mind: Who’s land was this, if anyone’s? As if to answer your question, a golden wolf pads forth from a small copse. Her emerald orbs study you, and you do the same, wondering who she is. Her forepaws are a shimmering silver, and the hind; a dusky black, along with the tail’s tip. She gives you a quick nod, and speaks.------------------------5555555555555555555555999999999933333330left;left;left;right;left;left;right;left;left;right;left;left;right;;left;left;right;left;left;right;left;left;right;left;hickleft;right;;left;left;right;left;left;right;left;left;right;left;left;right;
understand yet? lenriejrijeireiriehivnurwefgiuergriegt ytb4v548436872y4bteucnngfvyf74bt7er9ty94737q-48594057876-48nvfkgnckhf490wcnaspmxhf89g34y5-w3468564967487cnh8cnn 848777784784787 hfdhfehai U HAVE ROCK BUDDIES IN A COMPUTER OF IVE CREAM PIZZA POOL. 8888886668983904308444666000393939393945454g45445455454544545454455555555555555555555555555555554555555555555glfgjkfohk, still you domn't get it. fklhklsdfdfdhfuKeeping Your Pocket Pet Healthy
by: Talia Starkey
Related Articles
Black bear hamster. Photo by Beth Bianculli
A healthy pocket pet has a stable and stress-free life. His well-balanced meals appear at regular intervals, he has clean bedding and predictable living arrangements, and he follows an established exercise regimen. Few humans organize their own lives quite so well. But as a responsible pet owner it is important to keep these things in mind. Your pocket pet’s health may depend on it.
Gerbil
Gerbils have a very strong instinct to dig or burrow, so you should be sure to give your pet lots of bedding. Wood shavings or ground-up corn cobs work well. Don't try to make your gerbil's nest for him — he will choose a corner of the cage on his own, and then will drag any additional bedding he wants over to the nest site. If you want to include a wheel in your gerbil enclosure, be sure to get a plastic wheel that doesn’t have any spokes. An adult gerbil's tail is almost as long as his body, and it can easily be caught between the bars on a standard hamster wheel.
Gerbils are desert creatures that don’t need much water. But make sure your gerbil has a full water bottle available to him anyway and change the water often to keep it fresh. A good gerbil treat is a couple of pieces of air-popped popcorn. Avoid microwave varieties that are coated with unhealthy salt and oils.
Hamster
More than any other pocket pet, hamsters love to eat fresh veggies and fruits, like broccoli and apples. But their habit of hoarding food in secret piles in their nests catches up with them quickly if they try to hide items that may spoil. The molds that grow on fresh food can be harmful to your pet. Watch your hamster eat the fresh food and grains you set out for him. If he hides the fresh stuff instead of eating it right away, be sure to remove that food from his nest at the end of the day.
Hamsters are nocturnal creatures. Their wild relatives may run up to five miles every night gathering food. Your domestic hamster also needs a lot of exercise, and if you buy a stationary wheel for his cage he will likely run for hours each night. Take care not to disturb your hamster too often during the middle of the day. You’ll break up his sleeping time, and you may find that he is ill-tempered and grouchy.
Rat
Your rat likes to get his mouth on everything within reach. He’s an omnivore always on the lookout for snacks, but he also needs to file down his always-growing teeth by gnawing on hard objects. If your rat has been doing a lot of chewing, he may wear down his front teeth or even break one. Don’t be alarmed. A rat’s teeth can grow up to 5 inches each year, so just make sure he gets soft foods while his broken tooth grows out to its normal length. Conversely, if you have an older rat, you may find that he doesn’t wear down his teeth enough. A veterinarian with clippers can quickly remedy this problem.
Always keep an eye on your rat if you allow him to exercise outside of the cage. Rats are inquisitive explorers that use their long tails to balance when they climb. But a fall from a high point can be dangerous. He could suffer broken bones or internal injuries that could prove fatal.
Home Sweet Home
Your pocket pet probably lives in one of the family rooms or bedrooms in your home. Try to make sure that the temperature in that room stays relatively constant (somewhere around 70 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal for most rodents). Place the cage in a spot where your pets can have a little quiet while they rest and be sure to avoid drafts or direct sunlight. Keeping Your Pocket Pet Healthy
by: Talia Starkey
Related Articles
Black bear hamster. Photo by Beth Bianculli
A healthy pocket pet has a stable and stress-free life. His well-balanced meals appear at regular intervals, he has clean bedding and predictable living arrangements, and he follows an established exercise regimen. Few humans organize their own lives quite so well. But as a responsible pet owner it is important to keep these things in mind. Your pocket pet’s health may depend on it.
Gerbil
Gerbils have a very strong instinct to dig or burrow, so you should be sure to give your pet lots of bedding. Wood shavings or ground-up corn cobs work well. Don't try to make your gerbil's nest for him — he will choose a corner of the cage on his own, and then will drag any additional bedding he wants over to the nest site. If you want to include a wheel in your gerbil enclosure, be sure to get a plastic wheel that doesn’t have any spokes. An adult gerbil's tail is almost as long as his body, and it can easily be caught between the bars on a standard hamster wheel.
Gerbils are desert creatures that don’t need much water. But make sure your gerbil has a full water bottle available to him anyway and change the water often to keep it fresh. A good gerbil treat is a couple of pieces of air-popped popcorn. Avoid microwave varieties that are coated with unhealthy salt and oils.
Hamster
More than any other pocket pet, hamsters love to eat fresh veggies and fruits, like broccoli and apples. But their habit of hoarding food in secret piles in their nests catches up with them quickly if they try to hide items that may spoil. The molds that grow on fresh food can be harmful to your pet. Watch your hamster eat the fresh food and grains you set out for him. If he hides the fresh stuff instead of eating it right away, be sure to remove that food from his nest at the end of the day.
Hamsters are nocturnal creatures. Their wild relatives may run up to five miles every night gathering food. Your domestic hamster also needs a lot of exercise, and if you buy a stationary wheel for his cage he will likely run for hours each night. Take care not to disturb your hamster too often during the middle of the day. You’ll break up his sleeping time, and you may find that he is ill-tempered and grouchy.
Rat
Your rat likes to get his mouth on everything within reach. He’s an omnivore always on the lookout for snacks, but he also needs to file down his always-growing teeth by gnawing on s been doing a lot of chewing, he may wear down his front teeth or even break one. Don’t be alarmed. A rat’s teeth can grow up to 5 inches each year, so just make sure he gets soft foods while his broken tooth grows out to its normal length. of light and heavy shedding. If you don’t groom him, he will groom himself, ingesting the fur, which often leads to hairballs or even intestinal obstructions and a visit to the veterinarian. Always provide your bunny with plenty of fresh timothy and oat hay, changed daily, to help keep his system clear of hair build-up. Some rabbits tend to shed their old coat rapidly in just a few days instead of gradually. For these rabbits, you’ll need to not only comb or brush, but gently remove the huge clumps of loose fur. Be especially attentive during the summer months as the more you brush him and remove the old loose coat, the cooler he will be.
Brushes and Combs
You will need a brush (not too hard), one made for cats, and a plastic comb. Be gentle; brushing too vigorously can tear a rabbit's delicate skin. You will find that approximately three times a year they shed tremendously, and it may take you quite a bit longer to groom your pet. In the summer, a damp towel can help keep the hair from flying around your home as you continue to brush and discard the loose fur.
To Bathe or Not to Bathe
Baths are NEVER recommended. Too many bunnies have died in the middle of a bath. It lowers their temperature dramatically, causes undo stress, and is unnecessary. Rabbits in the wild never bathe, and unless your veterinarian directs you to bathe the bottom of your bunny for a medical problem, there is no reason to do so. Often, unscented baby wipes will work if your bunny needs a quick clean.
Fleas
Should you have a flea problem in your home, do NOT flea dip your bunny as this can be dangerous and has been fatal in some cases. A simple topical flea powder for cats, applied just once very lightly, is all that is needed. If you must spray your home, do so when the rabbits are outside for a few hours. House rabbits that don’t go outdoors usually never get fleas. Some of the topical flea products may be safe to use in rabbits. Consult your veterinarian for recommendations.
Special Concerns for the Show Rabbit – Angoras
The Angora rabbit, with his luxuriant coat, needs special care and attention. The tool of choice for Angora grooming is a "blower,” which looks and functions very similarly to a vacuum cleaner except it blows outward. Some shop vacuums have a reverse function of blowing; if the hose is clean, it can double as an Angora blower. Most Angora owners mail order the blower specifically for Angora grooming from pet catalog companies.
Most Angora rabbits are quite tame. Put your rabbit on his back and place him on your lap; blow on his abdomen to look for mats or tangles. If you see any, use your fingers to break them up and use a slicker brush to take out the mat. Then put the rabbit on a grooming stand, point the blower hose about one foot from the rabbit, and use the blower all over the rabbit. There will be loose hair and dander flying into the air, so it is best to do the blowing outdoors. If you find further mats or tangles, again use your fingers to break them up. Continue with the slicker brush to take out the mats. If done on a regular basis, it should take less than 10 minutes a day to groom your Angora rabbit.
Patience is the key for grooming your rabbit. Do not stress your bunny out on a very hot day, but wait until it is cooler and you have the time to spend to make him as comfortable as you can. Always be very gentle.
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http://aolsvc.petplace.aol.com/articles/artShow.asp?artID=2185
Training Your Chinchilla
by: Talia Starkey
Related Articles
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage.
Chinchilla owners have to earn – and keep – their pet’s trust. It may take weeks for your chinchilla to know you well enough to let you pick him up. You’ll see the best results if you move slowly, have lots of patience and visit with your chinchilla at the same time every day. And like elephants, chinchillas never forget: One frightening capture or grab could ruin your chance to make friends with this high-strung animal.
The First Days
The first few days in a new home can be very stressful, so you should give your chinchilla time to get acquainted with his surroundings before you approach him. Remember that he is naturally more active in the evenings and night. When you feed your chinchilla or change his water, approach his cage slowly and directly. Speak to your chinchilla in a soft, comforting voice, but do not try to touch him. It is best for him to get used to your voice while you’re still across cage bars from each other. With time your chinchilla will be more comfortable and may come up to the side of the cage to greet you when you enter the room.
Get a chair and sit quietly next to the cage. If your chinchilla comes over to see what you are doing, offer him a treat or a food pellet through the bars. Raisins are a favorite treat, but you shouldn’t feed your chinchilla more than one a day (split them in halves to spread it out). Your chinchilla will likely bound away when you move your arm to bring the food up to his level, but curiosity will bring him back to your fingers. Repeat this activity every night at the same time so that your chinchilla will begin to anticipate your visits.
After a few days of feeding your pet through the wires, open the cage door and place your hand on the cage floor, palm up. Make no move to try to catch your chinchilla. Allow him to approach your hand on his own. He will sniff your fingers, then bound away, and then return. Chinchillas are jumpy and energetic, but they’re also curious. After each session, reward your chinchilla for his good behavior.
Palm Feeding
Place a treat in the middle of your upturned palm such that your chinchilla has to step on you to get the food. Have patience; he may not go for it the first time. Do not move your hand toward him in the cage, for chinchillas hate to be chased. You’ll knock your whole training pyramid down to step one if you frighten your pet, and he won’t forget the incident easily. Once your chinchilla is willing to take a treat from your outstretched palm, try moving the treat up your forearm. To get at the food, your chinchilla will need to climb up your arms toward the cage door.
Don’t try to lift your chinchilla out of the cage just yet. Allow him to crawl out onto you. Let him explore your arms and shoulders and get used to your smell while you gently stroke his back and ears. When it’s time to put him back in the cage, tempt him back with his end-of-session treat.
On Handling
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage. Place one hand behind him or grasp the base of his tail to keep him from backing away from you and slip your other hand underneath your chinchilla’s body, supporting his full weight. Lift him carefully. Hold your chinchilla securely against your chest or at your shoulder so he can look out behind you.
Never grab your chinchilla’s tail while he is running away or a piece of it may break off in your hand. This is one of your chinchilla’s natural defense mechanisms. He will also release clumps of fur if he is scared or handled too roughly. If your chinchilla is running around, do not chase him. Let him calm down and try to slowly approach him and scoop him up in your hands.
Training Your Chinchilla
by: Talia Starkey
Related Articles
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage.
Chinchilla owners have to earn – and keep – their pet’s trust. It may take weeks for your chinchilla to know you well enough to let you pick him up. You’ll see the best results if you move slowly, have lots of patience and visit with your chinchilla at the same time every day. And like elephants, chinchillas never forget: One frightening capture or grab could ruin your chance to make friends with this high-strung animal.
The First Days
The first few days in a new home can be very stressful, so you should give your chinchilla time to get acquainted with his surroundings before you approach him. Remember that he is naturally more active in the evenings and night. When you feed your chinchilla or change his water, approach his cage slowly and directly. Speak to your chinchilla in a soft, comforting voice, but do not try to touch him. It is best for him to get used to your voice while you’re still across cage bars from each other. With time your chinchilla will be more comfortable and may come up to the side of the cage to greet you when you enter the room.
Get a chair and sit quietly next to the cage. If your chinchilla comes over to see what you are doing, offer him a treat or a food pellet through the bars. Raisins are a favorite treat, but you shouldn’t feed your chinchilla more than one a day (split them in halves to spread it out). Your chinchilla will likely bound away when you move your arm to bring the food up to his level, but curiosity will bring him back to your fingers. Repeat this activity every night at the same time so that your chinchilla will begin to anticipate your visits.
After a few days of feeding your pet through the wires, open the cage door and place your hand on the cage floor, palm up. Make no move to try to catch your chinchilla. Allow him to approach your hand on his own. He will sniff your fingers, then bound away, and then return. Chinchillas are jumpy and energetic, but they’re also curious. After each session, reward your chinchilla for his good behavior.
Palm Feeding
Place a treat in the middle of your upturned palm such that your chinchilla has to step on you to get the food. Have patience; he may not go for it the first time. Do not move your hand toward him in the cage, for chinchillas hate to be chased. You’ll knock your whole training pyramid down to step one if you frighten your pet, and he won’t forget the incident easily. Once your chinchilla is willing to take a treat from your outstretched palm, try moving the treat up your forearm. To get at the food, your chinchilla will need to climb up your arms toward the cage door.
Don’t try to lift your chinchilla out of the cage just yet. Allow him to crawl out onto you. Let him explore your arms and shoulders and get used to your smell while you gently stroke his back and ears. When it’s time to put him back in the cage, tempt him back with his end-of-session treat.
On Handling
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage. Place one hand behind him or grasp the base of his tail to keep him from backing away from you and slip your other hand underneath your chinchilla’s body, supporting his full weight. Lift him carefully. Hold your chinchilla securely against your chest or at your shoulder so he can look out behind you.
Never grab your chinchilla’s tail while he is running away or a piece of it may break off in your hand. This is one of your chinchilla’s natural defense mechanisms. He will also release clumps of fur if he is scared or handled too roughly. If your chinchilla is running around, do not chase him. Let him calm down and try to slowly approach him and scoop him up in your hands.
Training Your Chinchilla
by: Talia Starkey
Related Articles
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage.
Chinchilla owners have to earn – and keep – their pet’s trust. It may take weeks for your chinchilla to know you well enough to let you pick him up. You’ll see the best results if you move slowly, have lots of patience and visit with your chinchilla at the same time every day. And like elephants, chinchillas never forget: One frightening capture or grab could ruin your chance to make friends with this high-strung animal.
The First Days
The first few days in a new home can be very stressful, so you should give your chinchilla time to get acquainted with his surroundings before you approach him. Remember that he is naturally more active in the evenings and night. When you feed your chinchilla or change his water, approach his cage slowly and directly. Speak to your chinchilla in a soft, comforting voice, but do not try to touch him. It is best for him to get used to your voice while you’re still across cage bars from each other. With time your chinchilla will be more comfortable and may come up to the side of the cage to greet you when you enter the room.
Get a chair and sit quietly next to the cage. If your chinchilla comes over to see what you are doing, offer him a treat or a food pellet through the bars. Raisins are a favorite treat, but you shouldn’t feed your chinchilla more than one a day (split them in halves to spread it out). Your chinchilla will likely bound away when you move your arm to bring the food up to his level, but curiosity will bring him back to your fingers. Repeat this activity every night at the same time so that your chinchilla will begin to anticipate your visits.
After a few days of feeding your pet through the wires, open the cage door and place your hand on the cage floor, palm up. Make no move to try to catch your chinchilla. Allow him to approach your hand on his own. He will sniff your fingers, then bound away, and then return. Chinchillas are jumpy and energetic, but they’re also curious. After each session, reward your chinchilla for his good behavior.
Palm Feeding
Place a treat in the middle of your upturned palm such that your chinchilla has to step on you to get the food. Have patience; he may not go for it the first time. Do not move your hand toward him in the cage, for chinchillas hate to be chased. You’ll knock your whole training pyramid down to step one if you frighten your pet, and he won’t forget the incident easily. Once your chinchilla is willing to take a treat from your outstretched palm, try moving the treat up your forearm. To get at the food, your chinchilla will need to climb up your arms toward the cage door.
Don’t try to lift your chinchilla out of the cage just yet. Allow him to crawl out onto you. Let him explore your arms and shoulders and get used to your smell while you gently stroke his back and ears. When it’s time to put him back in the cage, tempt him back with his end-of-session treat.
On Handling
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage. Place one hand behind him or grasp the base of his tail to keep him from backing away from you and slip your other hand underneath your chinchilla’s body, supporting his full weight. Lift him carefully. Hold your chinchilla securely against your chest or at your shoulder so he can look out behind you.
Never grab your chinchilla’s tail while he is running away or a piece of it may break off in your hand. This is one of your chinchilla’s natural defense mechanisms. He will also release clumps of fur i
Training Your Chinchilla
by: Talia Starkey
Related Articles
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage.
Chinchilla owners have to earn – and keep – their pet’s trust. It may take weeks for your chinchilla to know you well enough to let you pick him up. You’ll see the best results if you move slowly, have lots of patience and visit with your chinchilla at the same time every day. And like elephants, chinchillas never forget: One frightening capture or grab could ruin your chance to make friends with this high-strung animal.
The First Days
The first few days in a new home can be very stressful, so you should give your chinchilla time to get acquainted with his surroundings before you approach him. Remember that he is naturally more active in the evenings and night. When you feed your chinchilla or change his water, approach his cage slowly and directly. Speak to your chinchilla in a soft, comforting voice, but do not try to touch him. It is best for him to get used to your voice while you’re still across cage bars from each other. With time your chinchilla will be more comfortable and may come up to the side of the cage to greet you when you enter the room.
Get a chair and sit quietly next to the cage. If your chinchilla comes over to see what you are doing, offer him a treat or a food pellet through the bars. Raisins are a favorite treat, but you shouldn’t feed your chinchilla more than one a day (split them in halves to spread it out). Your chinchilla will likely bound away when you move your arm to bring the food up to his level, but curiosity will bring him back to your fingers. Repeat this activity every night at the same time so that your chinchilla will begin to anticipate your visits.
After a few days of feeding your pet through the wires, open the cage door and place your hand on the cage floor, palm up. Make no move to try to catch your chinchilla. Allow him to approach your hand on his own. He will sniff your fingers, then bound away, and then return. Chinchillas are jumpy and energetic, but they’re also curious. After each session, reward your chinchilla for his good behavior.
Palm Feeding
Place a treat in the middle of your upturned palm such that your chinchilla has to step on you to get the food. Have patience; he may not go for it the first time. Do not move your hand toward him in the cage, for chinchillas hate to be chased. You’ll knock your whole training pyramid down to step one if you frighten your pet, and he won’t forget the incident easily. Once your chinchilla is willing to take a treat from your outstretched palm, try moving the treat up your forearm. To get at the food, your chinchilla will need to climb up your arms toward the cage door.
Don’t try to lift your chinchilla out of the cage just yet. Allow him to crawl out onto you. Let him explore your arms and shoulders and get used to your smell while you gently stroke his back and ears. When it’s time to put him back in the cage, tempt him back with his end-of-session treat.
On Handling
Your chinchilla will soon trust you enough to allow you to lift him out of his cage. Place one hand behind him or grasp the base of his tail to keep him from backing away from you and slip your other hand underneath your chinchilla’s body, supporting his full weight. Lift him carefully. Hold your chinchilla securely against your chest or at your shoulder so he can look out behind you.
Never grab your chinchilla’s tail while he is running away or a piece of it may break off in your hand. This is one of your chinchilla’s natural defense mechanisms. He will also release clumps of fur if he is scared or handled too roughly. If your chinchilla is running around, do not chase him. Let him calm down and try to slowly approach him and scoop him up in your hands.
f he is scared or handled too roughly. If your chinchilla is running around, do not chase him. Let him calm down and try to slowly approach him and scoop him up in your hands.
Throughout history, the lure of owning something different and the desire for status symbols has created a demand for exotic pets of all kinds, including wolves. Some feel that by owning a wolf, they own a piece of the wilderness or are helping an endangered species. Unfortunately, this is not true. There is no domestic situation that can fulfill the mental, social and physical requirements of a wolf, no matter how much he/she is loved. Wolves require many miles of territory, very specialized diets and specific and complicated social family structures. Regardless of how large of a backyard you have, the area is too small for a wolf. Other things to consider are the fact that inherent wild nature of a wolf cannot be removed. Wolves cannot be tamed or domesticated. They can however be socialized, which means they are wild animals without the fear of man and this leads to a dangerous situation. Another consideration is that many veterinarians will not treat wolves due to various state laws.
Lone wolves kept as pets often become stressed and neurotic due to confinement, lack of proper diet and lack of a pack social structure.
Wolves are predators and you will not be able to teach them that the neighbor’s poodle is not a prey item. Also, if allowed to run with dogs, the wolf will try to discipline the dogs as though they are part of a pack. This may result in severe injury or even death to the dog.
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