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Subject: Vilene Basics

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Date Posted: 19:16:52 03/15/01 Thu
In reply to: K 's message, "Vilene" on 17:43:53 03/10/01 Sat

My youngest is growing out of her solo costume that I made last May. I am going to use Vilene on the next one(my first time using it). I have some questions about it. On the last costume I used a very stiff interfacing and it has held up well. I used 3 layers of it on the front and 1 on the back. I did my embroidery through the interfacing and the appliques and the velvet. That made it extra stiff, but the Vilene sample I saw once didn't look like you could really sew through it. The Vilene also was an iron-on product and I'm sure that would gum up the needle anyway. So here are the questions: Do you put your Vilene on after you've done the appliques? Is Vilene an iron-on product? I always use a stiff iron-on interfacing for my appliques, but how do you stabalize the velvet for embroidering on the appliques? I could really use any help you can give. The reason I make my daughters solo and school costumes is to save money, so I really can't afford to experiment on velvet and satin.

-Vilene is another name for interfacing. The name is commonly used in Europe and there are many types and manufacturers. I have used several types from several sources and here is what I've found.

1. I use a medium weight interfacing on every piece of fabric in the dress. When I begin to embroider and applique, I use a heavyweight stabilizer (found at Joanns) behind the piece I am working on.

When all the design work is done I apply 1 layer of vilene (from Irish threads) to every piece of the skirt and pleats. I baste it along the seam line. Then I use the fusible vilene (from Irish dancer's catalogue) as a second layer on the front panel and the side panels. Cut this to fit just inside the seam lines so that you are not sewing through it. Hope this helps, it seems to be the best solution for me, but everyone has their own ways and different clients want different looks.

-A bit on what vilene actually is . It is a name given to all the non-woven products made for the manufacturing industry,. They called all products made for the home sewers pellon. Other than that each product is numbered. The company is changing and eliminating the word pellon,
I would not use an iron on interfacing behind your embroidery as it can easily bubble.

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[> [> Subject: Vilene in Skirt

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Date Posted: 19:38:25 03/15/01 Thu

I'm using the Irish Threads pattern and also their Vilene. The bodice is all done (Yeah!), now to assemble the skirt.
Should I follow the instructions which say to baste the Vilene to the velvet, sew the panels together, then trim out the Vilene from the seam allowance? Or is there a better way? I read once on another board (www.sewnews.com/bboard) that you should "float" the Vilene within the sewn panel, i.e.: not to do what is mentioned above, but hang or anchor the Vilene with long stitches from the seam allowances into the four corners of the Vilene. (hope this makes sense) Has any one tried this? I made a little sample of two panels and put the Vilene in following the Irish Threads instructions, and the "skirt" popped so the seam would have been close to the imaginary body and the panels went outwards like wings! Help. What method have you found works the best?

-I baste the vilene. I've tried many methods and this is the one that I have found the most reliable, at least for me. Every seamstress has their own little quirks, so hopefully you will find what works best for you

--(OP)Could you please explain more fully? Do you mean you would follow the instructions from Irish Threads, or ??

---I basically follow the Irish Threads instructions, however I only baste in 1 layer of vilene. The second layer I trim inside the seam allowance and fuse it to the first layer. Irish dancer's catalogue also has a fusible stiffener that I have tried for this second layer. I hand baste the bodice to the skirt. I also use a dressmakers form to check the hang sometimes.

-I hand baste the second layer of Vilene to the first layer of Vilene then trim the second layer of Vilene's seam allowance to just inside that of the first layer of Vilene's seam allowance. That way only one layer is caught in the seam. I only do two layers of Vilene on the two front (split skirt)panels of velvet, or the center box panel in velvet. I put one layer of Vilene in the two inside side kick panels (the ones only in satin) and the the next to side panels of velvet.e skirt and I have not put any Vilene in the whole back side of the skirt. You can use another interfacing that is not nearly as stiff. This prevents the Pippy Longstocking look (wings at the hips or the Bustle look (big derier look) completly and has worked successfully for me. Not to mention that the dancer and actually sit down in the dress without folding the Vilene into an odd shape in the back.

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