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Subject: Inverted Pleats construction

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Date Posted: 17:56:07 08/14/03 Thu
In reply to: 's message, "Pleats" on 17:51:58 08/14/03 Thu

Is there anybody out there who could step me through inverted pleats? I"ll be honest...I don't even understand some of the sewing lingo. But, I have made a number of dresses (which look ok if you don't go too close LOL) and want to attempt inverted pleats.

-I will try to walk you through it as best I can. I have made one split front panel and it uses an inverted pleat and this is how I did it. I will walk you through how I inserted the front pleat for the split panel. It works the same no matter what style you are doing.
1. Cut all pieces to size. On the two front panels I inserted the vilene and boning as normal.
2. Cut the inverted pleat as normal. Cut one full layer of vilene and then cut a second layer that will fit between the fold lines of the pleat. This is the area I used boning--from the fold to fold to hold the lining stiff.
3. Sew the pleat into the two panels. Fold to shape and let sit with some books on top of it overnight or use a press cloth with a good iron to get a good stable line for folding later.

Finish constructing the rest of the skirt as usual. Add lining and fold all pleats. Baste aross the top of the pleat to hold in place while attaching to the bodice. I hope this has helped a little. It is much easier to do that we try to visulize it. Take it one step at a time and do not let it intimidate you!! - Necia

-My method for inverted pleats, fast becoming my favourite sort of pleat!
1. I cut out the pleat in fabric and stabiliser, with fold and seam lines drawn on stabiliser. Overlock all edges.
2. I straight stitch along the fold lines with sewing machine.
3. Cut out 2 pieces of fusible stiffening - 1 for each of the narrow side sections, with the pieces 0.5cm less wide on each side than the section it has to be fused to.Iron on to stabiliser side of fabric with a steam iron.
4. Cut out 2 pieces for the middle section of the pleat, again 0.5cm less wide on both sides like before, iron them on one at a time with a steam iron. (This section needs more reinforcing than the sides)
5. I then attach the pleat to the front panel and side panels with 1" seam allowances.
6. When I attach the lining to the skirt I stitch down the fold lines of the pleat, going over the stitching line of before.
7. I hand sew the pleat in place securely at the waistline before attaching the bodice to the skirt.

I found that by following this method I did not have to press the dress at all for the pleats to sit perfectly.The secret is in the little gaps between each piece of stiffening. They are sitting so well that I can't see a need for any boning at this stage. However, it is a small size dress, so my method may change for a larger size. This has been the easiest dress to make so far! I love inverted pleats! - Alywen

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[> [> Subject: Reversed back pleats like Gavin D

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Date Posted: 09:34:02 11/08/04 Mon

I was noticing this at Garden State Feis Sunday. Instead of the center back going over the sides, the side goes over the center. Am I making sense? It was almost like the panel was flipped inside out (construction wise)

Also I observed that the side seams of the skirts are not in the "center" of the side of the dress, they are pushed forward so the front panels were flat across the front and the back panels sort of wrapped around the sides of the dress. A mom and I were discussing his construction and how the skirt sits well, which is why I paid particularly close attention. Very interesting...and I wonder if this is what makes the dresses sit so nicely.

-I had posted below about this and am about to attach a skirt like this on the dress I am finishing this week.
-It was like the whole back section of the dress was flipped inside out and the panels were extended so the back skirt met the front skirt more toward the front of the dress. I don't know if there is less movement or not. The girls have no problem dancing in them...one of our champs won and places often and she has one. You may be right though. I don't know it just seemed strange to me to have the back like that. I can see how pushing the seam forward may make the skirt sit more straight across in the front though. OP

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