VoyForums
[ Show ]
Support VoyForums
[ Shrink ]
VoyForums Announcement: Programming and providing support for this service has been a labor of love since 1997. We are one of the few services online who values our users' privacy, and have never sold your information. We have even fought hard to defend your privacy in legal cases; however, we've done it with almost no financial support -- paying out of pocket to continue providing the service. Due to the issues imposed on us by advertisers, we also stopped hosting most ads on the forums many years ago. We hope you appreciate our efforts.

Show your support by donating any amount. (Note: We are still technically a for-profit company, so your contribution is not tax-deductible.) PayPal Acct: Feedback:

Donate to VoyForums (PayPal):

[ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1, [2], 3, 4 ]

[ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Date Posted: 15:57:41 09/20/02 Fri
Author: Sue
Subject: Re: rabbit hucth design
In reply to: ahmed 's message, "rabbit hucth design" on 18:58:16 08/06/02 Tue

>Can you carry your existing hutch outside to let your rabbit eat the grass without having to build a new cage? What about a rabbit harness so you can walk the rabbit around? If you do build a new hutch a harness may be a good idea anyway so you can safely transport your rabbit out of the house and into the new area.

I would say that you have two choices - a movable cage up to say 4 or 5 feet long on each side (which you'll need soneone's help to move) or a more permanent fixture which could be larger. Either way you'll need to consider keeping the wire base to prevent the rabbit from tunnelling out. The site of such a cage is important too, as you'll need to place it where it gets some shade, protection from wind and not near the road or shed where it may be exposed to exhaust fumes.

Tp prevent stray cats from attacking you'll need the cage wire to be fairly heavy and with very small holes, as a cat can slip it's paw through quite narrow holes. If you have the funds you could consider putting a barrier around three sides and very small wire at the front, at least to the height the rabbit can stretch, and if it's a big rabbit the minimum cage height should be about 3 feet. The roof could be partly covered with roofing iron for shelter and the exposed section will also need to be covered in fine wire to prevent cat attack from above. The rabbit will need an enclosed area under the shelter which can be built off the ground and a small ramp used to lead up to it. If it's made out of wood it will need to be untreated pine or something similar which the rabbit can safely chew on, and you'll also need to be able to access this area no matter what it's made of for cleaning. Don't forget to check the ground area for poisonous plants and provide a non-tippable water dish plus some unsprayed fruit tree (apple is best I'm told) branches or other safe wood to gnaw on to protect the cage. Also be aware of the weather and ensure the rabbit is not left out in the heat or other weather extremes. If you think it's going to get warm have at least 3 or 4 two litre plastic bottles of water in the freezer and place one or two in the cage under shelter for the rabbit to lie against if it wants. These can be replaced as they melt and refrozen for next time.

If your rabbit uses a litter tray inside then use one in the outdoor cage also for ease of cleaning.


I hope this helps you.

Sue

[ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]
[ Contact Forum Admin ]

Forum timezone: GMT-8
VF Version: 3.00b, ConfDB:
Before posting please read our privacy policy.
VoyForums(tm) is a Free Service from Voyager Info-Systems.
Copyright © 1998-2019 Voyager Info-Systems. All Rights Reserved.