VoyForums
[ Show ]
Support VoyForums
[ Shrink ]
VoyForums Announcement: Programming and providing support for this service has been a labor of love since 1997. We are one of the few services online who values our users' privacy, and have never sold your information. We have even fought hard to defend your privacy in legal cases; however, we've done it with almost no financial support -- paying out of pocket to continue providing the service. Due to the issues imposed on us by advertisers, we also stopped hosting most ads on the forums many years ago. We hope you appreciate our efforts.

Show your support by donating any amount. (Note: We are still technically a for-profit company, so your contribution is not tax-deductible.) PayPal Acct: Feedback:

Donate to VoyForums (PayPal):

[ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: [1], 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ]

[ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Date Posted: 14:30:36 11/30/01 Fri
Author: FW Shark
Author Host/IP: 209.52.194.37
Subject: Re: Baffled by chatter/rattle
In reply to: Ben T. 's message, "Baffled by chatter/rattle" on 11:47:11 11/29/01 Thu

RE: Tube Rattling...
If you take a rubber mallet and hit the driveshaft mounted in the torque tube, it rattles like crazy as if you plucked a guitar string. The front bearing of the drvieshaft is mounted over the catalytic converter. The heat from the CAT increases wear on the bearing by affecting the grease. Wear=play. The more play the greater the rattle. Any engine vibration is transmitted to the driveshaft. The combination of a not so smooth engine (e.g mounts, lumpy idle) or play in the steady bearing will invoke this rrrrattle.

I think there should perhaps be two bearings up front or a beefier one to stabilize the shaft. I also would like an arrangement that uses an external grease nipple so that you can grease this front bearing, and extend its life. It's only the front one that is at most risk.

I almost think that the S4's (AT's) should have the "cut" to drop the tube without trans removal. The GTS's are at greater risk - more heat. This bearing on my GTS failed real early - at 40,000 miles, and was replaced with a new OEM tube at a cost of ~$2400 USD.


Paul Jager
www.jageng.com/auto_1.htm

[ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Replies:

[ Contact Forum Admin ]

Forum timezone: GMT-8
VF Version: 3.00b, ConfDB:
Before posting please read our privacy policy.
VoyForums(tm) is a Free Service from Voyager Info-Systems.
Copyright © 1998-2019 Voyager Info-Systems. All Rights Reserved.