| Subject: Re: type 4 into type 3 |
Author:
Darth Searoy
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Date Posted: 16:07:06 06/18/02 Tue
Author Host/IP: 206.231.13.11
In reply to:
smartmo
's message, "type 4 into type 3" on 07:44:05 06/03/02 Mon
>does anyone know what are the main considerations when
>putting a type 4 lump (poss 1800) into a type 3?
>any kind of advice would be good.
>
>cheers,
>Pete
I'm doing it now. I kn ow others who have done it and are driving around (fast).
If you don't have the Next Generation conversion manual Joe Joe Cali you should get it. It's mainly for converting the Type 4 engine to upright to go in bugs, but there are some good bits in there for us Darksiders. I will, of course, summarize.
- Remove the stock mechanical fuel pump if you have one. It gets in the way of early trans mounts (with frame horns). You'll have to use an electric one.
- Remove the stock lower bellhousing studs from the engine case and replace with Type 1/3 studs. Same stud, only shorter. Makes installing the assemble engine easier.
- EFI or carbs? Neither clear the lid. Custom EFI parts can be made to fit. Dual Webers of all kinds (not IDAs) have shorty manifolds available that fit under the lids. DCNFs are good for fit. IDFs/DRLAs are better for flow/power.
- Use stock bus exhaust with or without heat. Muffler might not clear stock. I don't know, my Notch was cut already when I got it. You might need 411/412 exhaust to fit better, or mod your stock bus parts (shorten the exhaust stub tubes).
- US spec being different than Euro I don't know exactly what parts are what years. The "late style" clutch with the input shaft sleeve is required. Use a late tranny with the sleeve or buy an adapter that replace the rear oil seal in the tranny to allow the use of the late clutch parts, including throwout bearing. I have the early swing axle with no sleeve. I bought the adapter for $28 US (what, about 18 quid?) the late throwout bearing, a 71 only throwout shaft (Euro may vary) and a late clutch kit.
- The rear engine hanger must be fabbed. I have the stock bus hanger and brackets. I plan to weld up the brackets to the Notch with some pre-load in them, and use the stock bus rear hanger. I may need to modify my plan after mock-up. The rear hanger is not an option. You will break something expensive if you don't do this.
Let's see, clutch, pump, intake, exhaust, rear mount. Ah, flywheel.
Use only a 210 or 215mm flywheel the outside diameter is only slightly more than the stock 200mm unit. Stock bus clutch parts work great. The bell housing might need the slightest clearancing, so since you have to remove the flywheel anyway for the next step, hold it up to the bellhousing and clearance where it might hit. Only do as little as you must.
Remove the input shaft bearing (pilot bearing) from the crank. I had to destroy mine to get it out. Buy a new bearing. Have the flywheel machined to accept the flywheel bearing press fit into the center hole. It must be flat side to clutch face and flush on that side. If the bearing is still in the crank it will interfere. Use red Locktite when pressing in the bearing. The input shaft of the Type 4/Type 2 is longer than in the Type 1/3 and won't reach the bearing in the crank, so we have to move it to the flywheel.
Porsche flywheels won't fit. Wrong starter ring offset.
Same starter can be used with the 200, 210 or 215 flywheel. The late 228 requires special starter and too much clearance for Type 1/3 use.
If you run an auto, the stock Bus parts all fit, and the transmissions are all almost the same, so it's good.
If you find a very early 411 it might have a 200mm Type 4 flywheel. Even better, but too rare to try in the US.
*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Darth Searoy
Escondido, CA, USA
65 VW Notchback
70 VW Fastback
"I prefer a tighter gap and a looser skirt,
A little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West.
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