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Date Posted: 18:28:18 04/09/01 Mon
Author: znailady
Subject: Nail Lacquer: How It Drys; What Affects It


As published in April 2001 Amera View



Numerous studies have proven that solvents in nail lacquer must dissipate in order for the lacquer to adequately dry.

Manicurists have long been led to believe that cold air, freezing, or cold water accelerate this drying process. This is wrong information. Coldness will "gel" the outer layer of "skin" of the lacquer, which forms a tacky (less-than-dry) outer surface.

With time, the solvents will dissipate, but the inner layers'-those closest to the nail-drying time will have been greatly retarded;thus, affecting the adhesion of the lacquer to the nail surface. Drying of the "gelled" coat also takes a little longer. For example, clothes on a line will dry in freezing weather. It just takes longer.

Technical analysis of nail lacquer shows that three major components need to evaporate for the lacquer to dry: butylacetate, toluene, and nitro cellulose. For optimal results, each of these solvents must dissipate or "dry" in a predetermined order. Coldenss or too much heat interrupts this order. As lacquer dries, a film is formed that we see as a glossy, colored nail.

Nail lacquer is formulated to dry at temperatures betwen 70 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Normal body temperature is 98.6. However the ambient temperature of the nail itself is normally 5 to 15 degrees lower than the body temperature.

If the nails are artificially heated to a temperature over 118 degrees prior to lacquer application, the surface of the nail lacquer dries almost immediately, making a smooth, even application of the lacquer nearly impossible. As multiple coats of lacquer are applied, each coat starts to dry almost immediately...to the touch. As layers are added, solvents and gasses continue to be released.

Optimum nail temperatures for lacquer application range from 70 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

Trouble begins with the fourth or final coat. Now there are four coats drying at different rates. Bubbling occurs when the extreme outer layer forms a "skin" or dry surface that "traps" the unreleased gasses/solvents. As these trapped gasses try to escape, they form microscopic bubbles under this "skin".

To eliminate this problem, more time must be allowed for the gasses to escape between the applications. Also, the nail must be completly dry and oil free prior to applying the lacquer coats. The first burst of drying occurs within the first 20 to 30 seconds. If a little extra time is allowed between coats, bubbling shoud not occur.

Most nail lacquers are made for a two-coat application. If the first coat is applied too thick, the release of solvents is inhibited by the "skin" formed on the first coat, which again retards drying of subsequent coats and may cause bubbling. It is always better to apply thinner coats to the surface of the nail in the first and second applications.

Fans and blowers, when used in dry environments give some beneficial results as long as they don't blow too hard. In humid environments, the blowing of damp air may actually inhibit the drying of the nail lacquer.

In summmary, correct application of nail lacquer wll produce a smooth, glossy-colored sold that will adhere to and protect the nails and yet, can easily and safely be removed with a proper solvent.

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