扮蟹節（2004/10/23） -- 舒展超之大玩派

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Subject: 扮蟹節（2004/10/23）

Author:
舒展超

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Date Posted: 17:56:55 10/25/04 Mon

十月份，商場店子都是橙色黑色（萬聖節裝飾），書報攤都是紅色黃色（運程書）；但十月最能引我注意的，不是色，而是食。
說起來，這種引我注意的食品，倒也是橙色黑色加紅色黃色的。橙色，是它熟透時的外殼；黑色，是用來蘸它食用的醫醋；而紅色黃色，則是它那豐富口感的羔──說的正是：大閘蟹！
現時，市場全年都有大閘蟹供應，但大家吃蟹還是非等到秋天不可的；就如月餅，其實釵h餅店也是全年有售的，但不到農曆七、八月又怎會有人買月餅吃？
每年中秋過後，大閘蟹開始大批大批上市；而近年各大小食肆，為了迎接蟹季，常會把大閘蟹化成古靈精怪的菜色，以吸引食客光顧。今年嘛，我就在雜誌報章中看到以下的新蟹菜：酒香火燄大閘蟹、鹽焗大閘蟹、蟹粉蘆薈炒蛋白、蟹粉過橋乳酪、蟹粉蒸蛋糕……
乜話？蟹粉蒸蛋糕？看到不禁失笑。大閘蟹在給人吃之前，還要如此「扮鬼扮馬」，真如萬聖派對一般！其實，最簡單的、最基本的清蒸大閘蟹，就已經是最好吃的了，何必「扮蟹」呢？反而蟹本身的質素，才是最重要的。

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