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Subject: Can embroidery be repaired??


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 23:00:37 09/18/01 Tue
In reply to: K 's message, "Tips/Techniques" on 15:47:31 03/10/01 Sat

Well we enjoyed all the exhibitions that my daughter danced on St. Pat's but she caught the embroidery on her dress on a nail while going on and off stage. It's not much just a few threads but very noticeable. So my question is can the embroidery be fixed? or does the entire front panel have to be replace? can that even be done?? What can we do? My daughter is heartbroken. Is it OK to wear the dress in competition this weekend... yikes, I just thought of that.


-Contact your dressmaker and get a spool of the thread that tore and then it can easily be fixed by hand

-you may also want to try to temporarily fix it by using jewel glue -- put on a SMALL amount, spread it around the area, let it get tacky then press the embroidery threads back into position

-clear nail polish works too!

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Replies:
[> [> Subject: Embroidery thread


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 13:23:02 09/20/01 Thu

I am about to begin a dress for my daughter. Is Sulky thread a good choice for the embroidery? Which is better, 30 or 40 wt? I have been reading over your shoulders for months and have gotten lots of useful info. Now I am taking the plunge

-Sulky is a good thread. 30 wt. is thicker so it fills in better. Stay away from sliver unless you are a very patient person. Also remember to use a good metallic needle with the metallic threads.

--Also I mentioned that Sulky was good looking at a one time dressmaker and did not have problems with it in the past. I personaly use Madeira (lots of supertwist)but purchase large spools wholesale and have no idea if it is available easily on the retail market. It is not here.

-The 30 weight is thicker. The threads get finer as the numbers go up. I use a 60 wt for silk batiste christening gowns.

-If you are near a store that carries Ackerman thread, it sews beautifully. IT is a touch more durable than sulky, Also the metallics sew wonderfully too, and as posted earlier, if you use a metallic needle, you will not have any more difficulity than sewing with regular thread.

-I am going to throw my 2 cents worth in here. I used to use the Sulky brand exclusively, but I have changed to Robinson-Anton Rayon thread when doing applique and embroidery. Sulky thread is good to a point--my sewing machine dealer has stopped carrying it because of the amount of thread breakage lately. Now--about those metallic threads--I just happen to teach artistic sewing as well as sew costumes. I can tell you from experience that these threads are easily used if you know how to set up the machine. Superior threads makes a wonderful metallic that is quite user friendy. I prefer the Supertwist metallic thread by Maderia. It is a little heavier and has a beautiful effect in the sewing. The key is to use all metallic threads on an UPRIGHT spool pin and have it feed off the front of the spool to the first thread guide. You can use a metallica or metafil needle but I have found that a size 90 Topstitch needle is even better since the groove in the shaft is deeper and the eye is larger than a metafil or metallica needle. When doing your satin stitching, make a test run and make sure that the metallic thread is being pulled to the back of your work. If it isn't, adjust your needle tension to a lower tension. Last but not least--slow down a little. You need to drop your speed a little. Going at a steady medium rate of speed is much better than going at top speed. Hope you find this a little helpful.

--I too love the Supertwist by Maderia. I did try Superiors holograph thread, and I did not have much luck with it, Have you tried Maderia's new thread Spectra? I am told it needs to pull off the spool horizontally vs, vertically????? I think convience of what your local thread store carries also play a big role in what thread you use if you are not ordering by bulk.

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