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Subject: Tips/Techniques Author: Anonymous [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 15:47:31 03/10/01 Sat In reply to: K 's message, "Applique & Embroidery" on 15:46:27 03/10/01 Sat [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Replies:

[> [> Subject: Transferring the design Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 18:18:21 03/10/01 Sat Someone on here had posted a terrific way of transferring the design to the fabric. If you have a Xerox of the design (make sure you have more than one copy), lay it down on the fabric where you want to design to wind up, then stitch over the design with the color thread that you will be using. For instance, if it's a knotwork section, stitch through the paper and fabric, following the line of the knotwork (I stitch down the center). Then, when you have stitched over the entire design, rip the paper away, and you'll have your design already on the fabric in the colors that it will eventually be. I made a solo dress this way and it was SO MUCH EASIER than my first one, where I used a transfer pen. One tip, though, make sure that when you stitch over the design you keep your stitch length short rather than long (no basting). Otherwise, if you baste over the design, when you rip the paper off, you might rip the stitches out too. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Transfer Design for Hand Embroidery Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 21:40:15 03/12/01 Mon I need a good way to transfer the designs to unfinished solo dress to be hand embroidered. I have started a new solo for my daughter, but need an idea how not to destroy the velvet or silk, but still be able to see the design to embroider. Replies: -I have had good luck with a "machine basting" technique for machine embroidering velvet - may also work for hand embroidery. I pin a photocopy of the design to the dress piece, then stitch through the copy in thread that matches the finished embroidery -- medium length stitch and fairly loose tension. Marks are easy to see, won't rub off, and the design is color-coded. -I have also used an iron-on ink, but that is tricky, and I was not overly pleased with the result. It was a black velvet dress and the ink was very sticky-- not a method I would recommend. -I knew a lady who was quite an experienced seamstress and had made dresses for all three of her girls-- he suggestion was to trace the entire design onto Stitch-and-Tear stabilizer, pin it to the panel, and stitch the entire design right through the stabilizer and fabric. Then, when the design was finished, tear the stabilizer away. This is not a method I have tried, myself, but it sounded like a neat one. I am wondering if it would work well to do the above-mentioned with the knotwork, and then stitch-and-tear for applique? -I tried satin stitching through stitch & tear, and every other stabilizer on the market, but didn't find one that would tear away without leaving any "whiskers" or distorting the stitching. I was using dark velvet and medium shade metallic sulky for the embroidery -- after this didn't work I went to the two step process I mentioned above. -The way my mum transfers the design is to put the fabric a glass table with the design underneath it then put a light under the table, and trace it with a white coloring pencil (NOT chalk pencil). Obviously that wouldn't be too affective with velvet though....another option, especially for light colored fabrics is to make a tracing of the design on tracing paper (or greaseproof =0)) with transfer pencil, then iron it on. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: More Transfer Methods Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 14:25:56 03/15/01 Thu I was wondering what transfer methods other dress makers were using for putting the designs on the dress. Replies: -I am not a professional dressmaker but I have made several costumes for my daughter. This is the method I used: I trace the pattern from paper onto a fusible interfacing, I then iron all the applique pieces on to that, cut out the 'holes' in the design and iron the complete thing onto the dress. Then I stitch it on a machine putting some more interfacing in the back of dress. -I use a sulky transfer pen-go over the design and iron on--work great -It depends on the type of fabric and the type of design -- embroidery or applique. For embroidered knotwork onto velvet, I pinned a copy of the design to the dress piece and then straight stitched through the center of the design line using thread that matched the embroidery. Then I tore away the paper, leaving a color-coded design to follow. For an all applique design on poly shantung, I traced the entire design onto a piece of red dot tracing fabric, pinned it very securely to the dress piece and fused the appliques in place one at a time through the tracer. I've also combined these techniques with good results -- usually embroidery first. -I had a friend of mine make me a light box that was 24 by 24 it has a florescent light under a clear plastic sheet, i draw the design on thin paper (the kind that a Drs. offices use for covering their examing tables) and place the design under the material that i need i have already cut out my appliques, i iron them on the material where they should be then i draw with a marker the under and over lines, any questions you can email me at hikiidmoms!@aol.com (kathi) -Alot of people are saying they iron on their transfers. If you are using those fabrics with the glued on dots for appliques how else could you attach them? Whenever I tried to iron them on the dots all come off on my iron, even at a low setting. --try using a thin piece of cotton over the fabric when ironing. It keeps the dos from coming off onto your iron --You need to use the LOWEST setting your iron has for these delicate materials. --I never iron directly over the appliques onto the material, I always use the thin paper to cover and iron on top of that, that way if it gets sticky from the appliques residue, i throw it away, and cut a new one. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Is it possible to remove transfer lines made with Sulky Pen? Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 22:33:03 09/18/01 Tue I used a Sulky pen to make a transfer for the embroidery on a dress. I have the embroidery all done, and there are two small lines that will not be embroidered. Does anyone know how I can remove the white sulky pen transfer lines without damaging the existing embroidery that is all around it? The dress is Royal Blue Gaberdine. The sulky pen lines are white. I tried plain water, and the transfer lines didn't even begin to budge. -I haven't had any luck at all with the colors, but white is different. Try some on a scrap and see if rubbing alcohol will take it out. As I remember it is sort of "clumpy". Scatch as much off as you can first. -Maybe if you buy one of those gel pens in the color of your dress and color in the line that might work. No one would know you did that but you -I called Sulky once to ask this question. They told me to call the store where I had purchased the pen. The store couldn't tell me. If you have ironed it on, rubbing alcohol and scraping work. If you did not have to iron it try dry cleaning solution. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Needle size & tips for lame Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 15:00:12 03/11/01 Sun I'm wondering what needle size everyone uses when they satin stitch lame. On the first dress I made, the needle sliced the lame while satin stitching. On the second dress I doubled the lame and don't seem to have as much of a problem with the slicing, but I noticed in a few spots the needle did slice the lame. I'm wondering if it's the needle. Replies: -I usually use a size 10 needle to embroider, when using the lame' I also put a layer of soly water soluble stabilizer over the lame and embroider over the two, I will help on the slicing, also you may if it is the tissue lame you may want to back the lame with that ARMO WEFT stuff. it helps also good luck --I still have a couple of questions....does the water soluble stabilizer tear away neatly? I'm assuming you don't use water to dissolve it when appliquéing lame to silk or velvet. Also, I've never heard of Armo Weft..what is that and where would you get it? ---YES THE STABLIZER TEARS AWAY NEATLY IF THE IS ANY RESIDUE YOU JUST TAKE A DAMP CLOTH AND WIPE THE LITTLE BITS AWAY, I KNOW THAT HANCOCK AND JOANN FABRICS CARRY THE ARMOWEFT, ALSO TROY CORP IN CHICAGO CARRIES IT ALSO BUT YOU MUST BUY IT BY THE BOLT THERE. -I always back lame with prewashed cotton broadcloth in a matching color, fusing the two together with Heat & Bond Light. I then use a size 12 schmetz embroidery needle for the satin stitching and have not had problems with splitting lame. Kathleen [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Tear Away Stabilizer-source Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 15:10:26 03/11/01 Sun What would be the best type of stabilizer for embroidering on velvet? Where can I get it? Replies: -I use 2 layers of heavy tear away or 1 layer stick on and 1 tear away. It depends on how you tension is set. Experiment until you stitching is just right. I got mine from Irish Threads. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Tips for Beginners/Stabilizer Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 21:18:44 03/12/01 Mon -Use plenty of tearaway stabilizer when you embroider the front panel. This prevents puckering. -I'm also a beginner but have found that embroidering with buckram (?) underneath instead of tear away stabilizer works really well for me. The buckram holds the fabric;kind of grips it and the whole thing turns and glides through the machine better. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: How scary is embroidery & applique? Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 20:19:48 03/15/01 Thu I'm just finishing up putting together my first attempt at a solo dress, and though it's had its share of setbacks (it's one of those dreaded Celtic Image kits -- wish I knew then what I've learned by reading all your posts!) it's finally coming together pretty well. And it hasn't put me off doing my daughter's next dress. In fact.... I'm wondering how difficult it is to do one's own embroidery/applique. I've never really done much machine embroidery before, so obviously I'd practice a lot before beginning, but I love the idea of having complete "artistic control" over design, colors, fabrics, etc. Is this a totally foolish and unrealistic hope? Should I just start looking right now for an embroiderer? Cost is, of course, a consideration, but as I said, I mostly like the idea of putting the whole dress together myself. But I certainly don't want to have a nervous breakdown in the process, or have my daughter looking like Dork of the Dance! =-) Replies: -The embroidery and applique are time consuming, but not terrible difficult. Just buy a good book on machine embroidery and applique -- the Singer Reference Library one on Decorative Machine Stitiching is good, and PRACTICE !! Use the same fabrics and threads for your dress to practice on. I have found that the Polyster Shantung is easier to embroider on than velvet, so it might be a good choice for a first attempt. A few hints -- use plenty of stabilizer;if you use metallic threads, Sulky is good, use a metallica needle;loosen the upper thread tension a couple of notches; use the lightweight bobbin thread for all the embroidery and applique - no need to change colors; lighten your presser foot pressure a couple of notches to make it easier to pivot along curves; back your applique fabrics with cotton fused on with Heat & Bond Lite; use Heat & Bond Lite to fuse your appliques in place before stitching the edges. Good luck, and please ask us questions as you get going. -Embroidery and applique can be as easy or as hard as you want it to be. I have found that using HTC cotton woven interfacing on the back of the applique fabric works much better that any of the fusible glues. I teach machine embroidery as well as artistic sewing on top of making the Irish dresses and have found that when you are using metallic threads, a size 90 topstitch needle is the best, and that making sure that you have your thread on an upright spool pin will keep thread breakage down. You want to use a light thread in your bobbin (YLI makes bobbin and lingerie thread) and you want to make sure that your thread needle thread tension is reduced by at least 2-3 numbers--needle thread should pull slightly to the backside of the work. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Needle Gumming Up Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:46:34 03/15/01 Thu I use a fusible web to attach my applique pieces but quite often the needle ends up with adhesive residue on it. Is there anything out there that can fix this? Replies: -I use a "light" sewable heat and bond , anything else I tried gummed up the needle. -I have had tis problem with some of the adhesive backed item, but not with wunder-under. Also there is a product called "sewer's Aid" that seems to help. You can put it on the needle. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Pressing Cloth & Heat Seal Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:50:24 03/15/01 Thu I'm in the midst of a new solo dress for my PW U13 daughter, very little embroidery, mostly lame' applique. Stumbled upon a very helpful notion while buying a new ironing board cover at Target. It is a see-through press cloth that prevents scorching. Looks like a piece of tent screening with bias tape bound edges. Has been great to position and fuse the appliques -- I finished the skirt panel and bodice without frying a single applique, or ending up with one in the wrong place. Thought I'd pass on the info. Replies: -I use a Teflon sheet that I bought at Clotildes. It basically does the same thing, and you can even put it in your oven to use for cooking (not that I would). -I use one also but it does not have a binding. They are definitely a necessity,. The other thing is the heat seal tool, which is like a miniature iron. --The heat seal iron can be bought on the Madeira website. I think they recently changed the name of it to an applique iron. It is a small iron ( 1 5/8" by 5") with a long wooden handle. Beats putting a large iron on those little applique pieces. It is also sold in hobby shops that sell model aircraft supplies. I think it was made to apply heat sensitive appliques to the models. It is worth its weight in GOLD!! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Using new fabrics-lame & silk Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 14:00:40 03/15/01 Thu I have made many dresses using velvet and gabardine but my customers are now asking for silks and roc lame. Is there a technique for sewing/embroidering these delicate fabrics? Also I have noticed that roc lame is being used for the main body of some dresses - how? Replies: -What's roc lame? Never heard that term before. How's it diff from regular old lame? -Is "roc lame" the same thing as "satin lame' "? I just altered a fairly new dress with the sides made out of it. It's definitely the "flash" that some people want, but they won't last very long. I won't make one using it, except for appliqués. -I use a lot of raw silk. The first thing I do in interface every piece. It helps it hold up as well as keeps it from unraveling while sewing. Also, look for the silk without too many "bumps" in it. Upon wearing, the smoother the raw silk, the less it will pill up. Putting a dress together with the silk is so much easier than dealing with the velvet, butt I don't think the dresses will last as long. --What kind of interfacing do you use? ---I use a fusible medium weight interface -I have done my appliques using heat & bond light to fuse them into place, then satin stitching around the edges. I always pre-shrink all applique fabrics, lame, satin, metallics etc, then fuse them to pre-shrunk matching all cotton broadcloth. Then I trace the design onto heat & bond light and fuse to cotton side of applique, cut out and fuse into place. On the appliques make sure nearly all the satin stitch is on the applique fabric, with just the "zig" going over the edge into the base fabric. Prevents pull-outs which can be very difficult to repair in a completed dress. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Embroidery on Silk Dupioni Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 19:55:23 03/15/01 Thu I'm planning to embroider a silk dupioni and noticed on a practice sample that silk rips easily if you make a mistake. I wondered if I should use some type of stabilizer on the back of the sections I plan to embroider? If so, what kind should I use and how should I adhere it? Is it OK to iron on silk? Replies: -First I use a med weight fusible interfacing and then I use a heavyweight stabilizer behind that. It works great on the dupioni. -I have sewed and embroidered on Silk Dupioni for several years now. I have found that the woven fusible interfacing by HTC workd great with the silk. Make sure you steam shrink it as you fuse it to the silk. You also need to use a good stabilizer while doing the embroidery. -Iron Away! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Interfacing for Silk Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 20:36:03 03/15/01 Thu Can anyone please tell me what they use to back the dupion silk with to provide a bit more strength for the applique & embroidery I have been told that solidot is not suitable as it can stain the silk. Replies: -I just use a fusible interfacing on all the silk pieces and then use a heavyweight stabilizer in the areas that have applique and embroidery -I've been using a 'sew-on', woven interfacing on all pieces. Then a couple of layers of 'tear away' stabiliser behind the applique and embroidery........I have used 'iron-on' in the past but was unhappy with how it 'bubbled' in places as I worked on the embroidery! -When you use the sew-on interfacin on all pieces, do you actually sew or serge it to the silk? Do you still use heavy weight vilene after that? -I serge all my silk pieces to the interfacing, then I'm working with one layer! I work on all my applique and embroidery and still use the vilene to stiffen the skirt as you would with velvet, gabardine etc..... -(Do you ever have a problem with the serged layers "shifting" when you turn for the the embroidery? --No! I haven't found that to be a major problem......I do however use alot of pins to hold the 'tear-away' in place and I try to work from the inside of my design outwards, always starting with the applique then doing the embroidered knotwork. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Applique pulling away after wearing Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 20:24:09 03/15/01 Thu I have a brand new dress (worn only 3 times, approximately 1/2 hour each time. Stored flat). There are places where the satin applique is pulling away from the stitches that hold it in place. 1. What, in your opinion causes this? 2. How do I remedy the situation? 3. Will anything stop this process? Replies: -If the applique is done properly it should have been stitched down all around with a straight stitch first, before the satin stitch.Does not sound like this was done at all. This holds the applique in place so it cannot come up. Also the satin stitch should be completely on the applique with the needle just dropping off the edge. -What is the applique fabric? Some are like paper and tend to tear. You can try putting a little jewel glue around the areas that are tearing. This may prevent more damage. --from OP: applique fabric is satin, dress fabric is velveteen -The applique material may have been applied correctly, but in the process of doing the appluiqe, if the stitch count is high (the threads very close together) then the needle may in fact have "cut" through the satin. you may want to "fray check" the edges of the satin (becareful, some satins stain, and then with needle and thread, catch the satin into some of the stitching by doing your own "satin stitch" -I have had this problem and I have seen dresses coming from the best dressmakers in Ireland with the same problem. If the satin stitch around the applique piece is narrow, at certain parts of the applique piece you are stitching on the bias and there is bound to be some fraying. I have tried Fray Check and that doesn't seem to help much either. The piece won't come off, it just will look a little ragged. Aggravating though, isn't it? Not much you can do. -If the applique was stitched down first with a straight stitch even with narrow satin stitch it should hold. Sometimes when the needle is too large, stitches are close together and the fabric is poor quality it can cut . I have seen several dresses from Ireland where they shortcut steps. Try a little of the jewel glue under the applique piece by sticking it under with a tooth pick and then pressing it in place. -A straight stitch will not make a difference if the fabric is cut by a too dense stitch. I have seen this in even the very expensive, high quality fabrics. Acetates and lames especially will cut like leather when too many stitches are in a small area. -There is a glue called Fabric-Tac that will work to keep it from coming apart any more. I always use new , sharp embroidery needles to keep from cutting. Also, I fuse the appliques to the fabric which also helps hold the applique fabric together. Most of the satin stitch should be on the applique, rather than on the base fabric. This helps make sure the edge is covered with your stitch. -I've seen this happen on several dresses. I always back all my applique fabrics - satin, lame, glitter ball - with iron on interfacing or matching cotton fabric fused w/ heat-n-bond lite. Seems to seal the fibers and make it more resistant to fraying. To correct the problem on an existing dress you could try to push some fusible webbing under the loose area and fuse carefully with a mini-iron. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Can embroidery be repaired?? Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 23:00:37 09/18/01 Tue Well we enjoyed all the exhibitions that my daughter danced on St. Pat's but she caught the embroidery on her dress on a nail while going on and off stage. It's not much just a few threads but very noticeable. So my question is can the embroidery be fixed? or does the entire front panel have to be replace? can that even be done?? What can we do? My daughter is heartbroken. Is it OK to wear the dress in competition this weekend... yikes, I just thought of that. -Contact your dressmaker and get a spool of the thread that tore and then it can easily be fixed by hand -you may also want to try to temporarily fix it by using jewel glue -- put on a SMALL amount, spread it around the area, let it get tacky then press the embroidery threads back into position -clear nail polish works too! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Embroidery thread Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:23:02 09/20/01 Thu I am about to begin a dress for my daughter. Is Sulky thread a good choice for the embroidery? Which is better, 30 or 40 wt? I have been reading over your shoulders for months and have gotten lots of useful info. Now I am taking the plunge -Sulky is a good thread. 30 wt. is thicker so it fills in better. Stay away from sliver unless you are a very patient person. Also remember to use a good metallic needle with the metallic threads. --Also I mentioned that Sulky was good looking at a one time dressmaker and did not have problems with it in the past. I personaly use Madeira (lots of supertwist)but purchase large spools wholesale and have no idea if it is available easily on the retail market. It is not here. -The 30 weight is thicker. The threads get finer as the numbers go up. I use a 60 wt for silk batiste christening gowns. -If you are near a store that carries Ackerman thread, it sews beautifully. IT is a touch more durable than sulky, Also the metallics sew wonderfully too, and as posted earlier, if you use a metallic needle, you will not have any more difficulity than sewing with regular thread. -I am going to throw my 2 cents worth in here. I used to use the Sulky brand exclusively, but I have changed to Robinson-Anton Rayon thread when doing applique and embroidery. Sulky thread is good to a point--my sewing machine dealer has stopped carrying it because of the amount of thread breakage lately. Now--about those metallic threads--I just happen to teach artistic sewing as well as sew costumes. I can tell you from experience that these threads are easily used if you know how to set up the machine. Superior threads makes a wonderful metallic that is quite user friendy. I prefer the Supertwist metallic thread by Maderia. It is a little heavier and has a beautiful effect in the sewing. The key is to use all metallic threads on an UPRIGHT spool pin and have it feed off the front of the spool to the first thread guide. You can use a metallica or metafil needle but I have found that a size 90 Topstitch needle is even better since the groove in the shaft is deeper and the eye is larger than a metafil or metallica needle. When doing your satin stitching, make a test run and make sure that the metallic thread is being pulled to the back of your work. If it isn't, adjust your needle tension to a lower tension. Last but not least--slow down a little. You need to drop your speed a little. Going at a steady medium rate of speed is much better than going at top speed. Hope you find this a little helpful. --I too love the Supertwist by Maderia. I did try Superiors holograph thread, and I did not have much luck with it, Have you tried Maderia's new thread Spectra? I am told it needs to pull off the spool horizontally vs, vertically????? I think convience of what your local thread store carries also play a big role in what thread you use if you are not ordering by bulk. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Applique backing Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 16:09:19 10/10/01 Wed When making the applique, is it necessary to fuse the satin to cotton fabric before fusing to the velvet, or can the satin be fused directly to the velvet (using wonder under)? I can understand where fusing to a cotton backing would be useful if a light satin were being placed on a dark velvet, but in other situations can the satin go directly on the velvet? I hope to start on this dress in the morning. Yikes! -I think you will find that using HTC (Handler Textile) woven cotton fusible interfacing on the back of your applique fabric is useful. It will make the fabric a bit stronger and I have found that the heavy satin stitching will not tend to *shred* the edges of the fabric as easily. I use it with all my applique work and have had great success. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Thread/Needle Tips Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:20:32 03/06/02 Wed [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Metallic Thread Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:26:03 03/06/02 Wed I am having trouble using metallic threads on my machine. They keep breaking! Also one particular thread has broken 3 needles! Does anyone have any tips, hints or suggestions to prevent this? It is very frustrating. Replies: -I've done a lot of embroidery with metallic threads on the two dresses I've made for my older daughter -- she loves the look of metallic embroidery to set off the appliques. A few suggestions -- always use a "metallica" needle, they are specially constructed to accommodate the threads; try a different size needle; only use the best quality embroidery threads (I use Sulky); make sure your machine is threaded properly; clean the lint from between the tension discs; try reversing your spool of thread so the thread feeds off the spool differently; loosen the upper tension a little; always use lightweight bobbin thread; sew more slowly. - Metallic thread problems?? Well, here are a few tips I hope will help you. 1.Use the metallic thread on an upright spool pin only and have the thread feed off of the backside of the spool only. 2.Use only a size 90 TOPSTITCH needle as the groove down the shaft is deeper and the eye larger than even a metallic needle. 3.You need to loosen your top needle tension considerably with metallic threads. Take a sample of fabric and play with the tension until you can see the metallic thread being pulled through to the backside of the work. Use a lightweight thread (60 OR 70 weight) in the bobbin. 4.If all this has failed to help, e-mail me with the brand and I can be a little more specific. 5.You can also use sewer's aid with your thread but only if you know that you do not have any plastic or nylon parts in the tension paths. Sewers aid is made with silicone and I think it is safe for use in a Bernina, but a quick call to you dealer can give you the answer. 6. Last but not least--slow down. You don't want to sew as fast as you normally would--go about 1/2 to 2/3 normal speed. - One more thing is to make sure your needle plate or the hook of your bobbin do not have any rough spots. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Black Thread Type Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:18:40 03/15/02 Fri Does anyone have any tips on how to embroider with black thread. The problem we have been having is it snagging and breaking very easily. We have tried practically every brand on the market. We have been told that black is the most dyed colour so the thread fibre has taken more abuse. Any ideas? Replies -I use Madeira and have never had a problem -try using a polyester embroidery thread instead of rayon. It snags less. I use Madeira brand as well., -This is my area of expertise as I used to teach decorative sewing with metallic/decorative threads. You have to make sure that your machine is clean--the bobbin area needs to be cleaned often as it collects lint and metallic fibers from applique. You need to check your bobbin and stitch plate for burrs as well--every time you run over a pin, you run the danger of creating a scratch or a nick in these areas. You can get emery cloth at the hardware store to take care of these problems. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: How much to buy Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:33:58 03/15/02 Fri About how many meters of thread does it take to applique and embroider a solo dress? I want to order enough so that it all comes from the same dye lot. Replies: -Are you talking about hand or machine embroidering? For one dress, 1000m spool (machine) of each color should be plenty. If you are hand embroidering, get 5 - 6 skeins of each color. -There are so many variables that it is almost impossible to give an actual recommendation. The size of the dress, amount of embroidery, width of the stitching line, and number of colors all must be factored in before making a recommendation. The best solution is often to purchase the maximum amount you could imagine needing, plus 10% from a store that would allow you to return unused, unopened spools of thread. That way you are assured that the dye lots match, while not having to pay for unused thread. -I am currently working on a dress for my daughter, a complex design -- all applique outlined in black, and have already used 4 1000 yard spools, and I'm about 2/3 done. This dress is for a 5'4" tall 12 year old who wears a size 7-9 in most clothes, so I'd consider it a "medium" size dress. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]