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Subject: Tear Away Stabilizer-source


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:10:26 03/11/01 Sun
In reply to: K 's message, "Tips/Techniques" on 15:47:31 03/10/01 Sat

What would be the best type of stabilizer for embroidering on velvet? Where can I get it?

Replies:
-I use 2 layers of heavy tear away or 1 layer stick on and 1 tear away. It depends on how you tension is set. Experiment until you stitching is just right. I got mine from Irish Threads.

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Replies:
[> [> Subject: Tips for Beginners/Stabilizer


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 21:18:44 03/12/01 Mon

-Use plenty of tearaway stabilizer when you embroider the front panel. This prevents puckering.

-I'm also a beginner but have found that embroidering with buckram (?) underneath instead of tear away stabilizer works really well for me. The buckram holds the fabric;kind of grips it and the whole thing turns and glides through the machine better.

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[> [> [> Subject: How scary is embroidery & applique?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 20:19:48 03/15/01 Thu

I'm just finishing up putting together my first attempt at a solo dress, and though it's had its share of setbacks (it's one of those dreaded Celtic Image kits -- wish I knew then what I've learned by reading all your posts!) it's finally coming together pretty well. And it hasn't put me off doing my daughter's next dress. In fact.... I'm wondering how difficult it is to do one's own embroidery/applique. I've never really done much machine embroidery before, so obviously I'd practice a lot before beginning, but I love the idea of having complete "artistic control" over design, colors, fabrics, etc. Is this a totally foolish and unrealistic hope? Should I just start looking right now for an embroiderer? Cost is, of course, a consideration, but as I said, I mostly like the idea of putting the whole dress together myself. But I certainly don't want to have a nervous breakdown in the process, or have my daughter looking like Dork of the Dance! =-)

Replies:
-The embroidery and applique are time consuming, but not terrible difficult. Just buy a good book on machine embroidery and applique -- the Singer Reference Library one on Decorative Machine Stitiching is good, and PRACTICE !! Use the same fabrics and threads for your dress to practice on. I have found that the Polyster Shantung is easier to embroider on than velvet, so it might be a good choice for a first attempt. A few hints -- use plenty of stabilizer;if you use metallic threads, Sulky is good, use a metallica needle;loosen the upper thread tension a couple of notches; use the lightweight bobbin thread for all the embroidery and applique - no need to change colors; lighten your presser foot pressure a couple of notches to make it easier to pivot along curves; back your applique fabrics with cotton fused on with Heat & Bond Lite; use Heat & Bond Lite to fuse your appliques in place before stitching the edges. Good luck, and please ask us questions as you get going.

-Embroidery and applique can be as easy or as hard as you want it to be. I have found that using HTC cotton woven interfacing on the back of the applique fabric works much better that any of the fusible glues. I teach machine embroidery as well as artistic sewing on top of making the Irish dresses and have found that when you are using metallic threads, a size 90 topstitch needle is the best, and that making sure that you have your thread on an upright spool pin will keep thread breakage down. You want to use a light thread in your bobbin (YLI makes bobbin and lingerie thread) and you want to make sure that your thread needle thread tension is reduced by at least 2-3 numbers--needle thread should pull slightly to the backside of the work.

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