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Subject: Fabrics


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:41:14 03/10/01 Sat


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Replies:
[> Subject: Sports Fabric?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 17:49:04 03/10/01 Sat

Somebody emailed me saying that they were making a dress lined in some kind of fabric that wicks the perspiration away. What is the name of that stuff, how much is it a meter or a yard and where do you get it? Also, if I can't find it over here would someone be willing to ship some to me if I paid for the fabric and the shipping?

Replys:
-It was probably Bernie, with MtnTop Studios. She brought the samples of the Coolmax by here, and they look interesting. I'll give her a call.
-There is also a fabric called Wickaway. Will these fabrics work as linings though? Or will they just end up wicking the fabric to the silk or velvet and get it wetter?

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[> Subject: How much fabric for a dress


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:30:15 03/11/01 Sun

about how many yards of velvet would you need for a size 14 (girl) dress? I am thinking of making a dress but have not yet bought a pattern (still researching) but there are some good sales around right now and was thinking of taking advantage of them. I just need to know about how much fabric I might need.

Replies:
-It depends on the width of the velvet. For 60" wide, I get 4 yds. This is usually more than enough, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Also, this way you can change the sleeves, cape, or side bodice panels as style and size demand.

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[> Subject: Silk


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:37:54 03/11/01 Sun


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[> [> Subject: Persperation and fabric damage


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:44:57 03/11/01 Sun

I am an adult dancer, and have been looking into getting a solo dress. However, I have some concerns about fabric and colour, because I sweat -- a lot. Thing is, my sweat seems to be rather acidic, and has been known to alter certain colours, mostly reds. Is there something I can do to prevent this? Are there certain fabrics that are more likely or less likely to be affected?
I thought it would be best to go to the experts with this question.

Replies:
-Is it your persperation or could it be body oils? I have had clients with a body oil problem before. Second linings and singlets helped. Has anyone tried the new Coolmax as mentioned below?

--(OP)It appears to be the sweat, as the colour only changes where the sweat has soaked through and dried. I have changed the colour of bathingsuits, and have been known to rust hooks and eyes. I don't want to ruin the dress after only the first couple of wearings, especially one that someone has worked so hard on, and has cost so much.

-In my experience, perspiration disintegrates silk. Could someone who has tried the polyester silks or the new microfibers comment??

-The real problem with perspiration is the salt content. Silk itself is a very durable fabric. As long as it doesnít have interfacing and applique on it, you can actually wash silk in the washing machine. This is recommended by the company in India that I deal with. However, when silk and the salt in sweat are combined and the salt isn't washed out, the silk rots. FAST! And changes colour. Actually, most fabrics will change colour when exposed to sweat over a period of time, and some people have a higher salt content than others. My recommendation would be that if you like silk and the poly alternative, have your dresses made so that the silk is on the skirt and maybe down the front, but stay away from the under-arms. At least until we figure out a way to keep the sweat from reaching the outer layer of fabric.

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[> [> Subject: Durability?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:34:13 03/15/01 Thu

Can anyone tell me how these silks are holding up in the dance costumes? Also, some of the girls perspire quite a bit. Does the silk stain, especially under the arm?

Replies:
-I have found that the raw silk with fewer "bumps"in it holds up better than the bumpy kind. Also, it seems to wear in the areas that get rubbed alot (where the sleeves hit the sides, etc)

-To prevent staining, I fuse a synthetic backing to the side bodice panels. I use a heavier weight broadcloth in the bodice and I recommend dress shields and/or a tight short sleeved t-shirt.

-I have a silk dupioni dress!....... My mum mad me a solo dress entirely from silk earlier this year....and so far it's held up really well. We also lined it fully in the bodice and sleeves which has probably strengthened it. The colours havenít faded (yet, it's only a few months old).

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[> [> Subject: Raw Silk Dry-cleanable?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 22:35:50 09/18/01 Tue


-Yes, raw silk is dry cleanable. However, I would caution you to make sure all the *ingredients* are dry cleanable as well. Lots of the newer hologram fabrics and confetti dot fabrics are not drycleanable. I have been spraying my dresses with quilt guard making them a little more resistant to stains and dirt. Just a light brush with a clothes brush or lint roller will handle most problems. The beautiful lames and other sparkle fabrics can melt when they come into contract with the cleaning solutions that are used in a *dry clean*.

-I just finished my first dress -- velvet with lame appliques and confetti dot sleeves and skirt lining. Are you saying the only way to get it clean is to keep it clean? =-( I'm already planning my daughter's next dress -- are there similar but more "easy-care" fabrics available?

-If it is tissue lame, it can generally be cleaned. The confetti dot can't. You might get away with one or two cleanings, but don't count on it. Take fabric samples to a cleaners that does the cleaning "on site". They can dip them for you so you can see what will happen. Some fabrics get dull. Others disappear...

--There are diiferent qualities of confetti dot as well as lame. Some are drycleanable and some are not . I use all cleanable . The difference on the confetti dot is whether the dots are applied with glue or a high heat process.

-I do know a mom who has washed a silk dress. She fills the tub with water and immerses the dress, swishing it is sudsy water several times. She then rinses in the same manner until the water is clear and suds free. You might want to check with the person who made your dress. If the color is very intense there is more danger of bleeding. Be especially careful with red or purples.

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[> Subject: Poly Shantung


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:38:56 03/11/01 Sun


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[> [> Subject: Would you recommend Poly Shantung?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 14:41:49 03/15/01 Thu

I'm an advanced beginner and have plans to make my solo dress when i get into novice so that it will be done hopefully by the time I get into prizewinner. I'm going to do mostly applique and use the seven gates design book. Anyway I saw on Antonio Pacelli's webpage that a new fabric for dresses is shantung satin. I've seen this material before and liked it a lot but am wondering how it would come out for a solo dress.

Replies:
-Poly shantung is a nice fabric to work with. There are a wide range of colors available, but not as many as in silk. It is a fashion fabric and is limited to some degree by what is "in". It is a washable fabric, and does not stain as easily as silk. It has a nice sheen, and a shine on the reverse, that is nice for an accent. It is longwearing ang relatively inexpensive. It is made to resemble silk, which is why I have been comparing them. The silk comes in a wider variety of colors, which are very rich. This is their most appealing feature. The silk is also easier to steam any imperfections out of. I do not think that the silk wears as well, it can stain terribly if sweat gets on it.

-I agree with the above post. My daughter's newest solo dress is poly shantung and I've been very pleased. Easy fabric to work with, wears well and looks great on stage. Color selection is limited in local stores, but a wide variety are available on special order. Will be ordering some to make a new solo dress for my younger daughter in time for next year's oireachtas. I don't plan to go back to velvet anytime soon.

-Where do you get your poly shantung? I've tried to find some sources, but can only find it in silk. I made my daughters dress in raw silk and had a few problems with it "buckling" when I did some applique..I probably didn't put enough backing. I can't say how the "silk" is wearing because she has only worn the dress three times. I'm not sure I'd use silk again, but the range of colors is tempting.

--Joann Fabrics often has poly shantung. The quality is nice and is consistent, something that cannot be guaranteed in silks. Also, as to the wear, I have heard of silk dresses showing wear after three times, so you must have gotten a good one!

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[> [> Subject: Stabilizing Poly Shantung and Silk


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 17:06:18 09/15/01 Sat

I'm making a velvet and poly shantung dress. Since I haven't used the poly shantung before much less together with velvet, I was wondering if I should back the shantung with cotton or not (like I would an applique). It will be the middle of the princess on top and center section on the skirt as well as the bottom of the skirt and cape. Thanks for any help you can give!

-You will definitely need to stabilize the shantung. I use a 'sew-on' interfacing on all pieces of fabric, even the pieces I don't do any applique/embroidery on.......serge the two layers together so your working with one layer. I've tried the iron-on interfacing but found that it 'bubbled' as I worked my applique etc.

-I use HTC cotton fusible and haven't had any problems with it. I use it for silk also.

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[> [> Subject: Which side to use?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 12:58:40 09/20/01 Thu

This is a silly question but I've been checking out the poly shantung at local fabric stores and some have a real shiny side and then a duller side. Which side do you use--I like both.

-When I finish My daughters dress -- the next dress is for a girl who INTENTIONALLY selected the dull (magenta side) of the Blue Sassy Silk Shantung for the main body of ther dress --with the sleaves using the blue ... kinda threw me for a loop but the combo actually works nicely.

-In my opinion, the dull side of the shantung looks more like silk than the shiny side. I usually go with the dull side and use lots of color in the applique and embroidery.

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[> Subject: Sources


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 21:47:50 03/12/01 Mon


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[> [> Subject: Poly Shantung


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 21:52:25 03/13/01 Tue

-Troy Corp. in Chicago had some left --
www.troy-corp.com , or 1-800-888-2400
I bought up a bolt since it seems to be a hard color to find. The poly shantung wears so much better than the silk I just wish the color selection was as good.

-there are quite a few sources for this poly shantung the brand name is montego shantung by rosebarr, they have a lot of colors thur troy and i have found several other vendors in chicago that carry it

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[> [> [> Subject: Poly Shantung online?


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 18:06:41 03/15/01 Thu

I'm looking for this fabric in either a deep purple or sapphire -- any suggestions on who carries or where I can purchase online?

Replies:
-Someone on this board recommended Joann's. They seemed to have a good collection, but go soon before they put in the spring materials

-I got my shantung from Irish Threads . They have several colors and the price was good

-JoAnn's can special order the poly shantung in a wide variety of colors -- I just ordered some at my local store in the colors I need for my daughter's new solo dress.

-Try Troy Corporation in Chicago, price is around $7.00 for a bolt price of 17 yards or around $10.00 cut

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[> [> Subject: Gabardine


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 21:54:02 03/13/01 Tue

I just found this info. It won't be formatted prettily, but I think you can use it.

Gabardine
Company Contact Phone Fax Email
Avondale Mills, Apparel Fabrics Louis Pedraza 803-663-2838 803-663-5088 louis@avondalemills.com
Burlington Performance wear Lou D'Lando 336-379-2571 336-379-2498
Cleyn & Tinker (1989), Inc. J. Longlade 514-339-1919 514-339-1616
Cone Mills Corporation Douglas W. Hart 336-379-6544 336-379-6576 sportsw r@cone.com
Galey & Lord Industries, Inc. Seymour Thompson 212-465-3057 212-465-3024
Greenw ood Mills, Inc. Joe Jankow ski 800-228-6344 212-382-9170
Inman Mills, Inc. Pete Dutoit 212-704-0006 212-921-8358
Johnston Industries, Inc. Trish Philips 212-398-9850 212-944-9581 philipst@oppmicolas.com
Milliken & Company Matt Richardson 864-503-2326 864-503-2407
Mount Vernon Mills, Inc. R. M. Turner 864-233-4151 864-370-2315 richt@mvmills.com
Southern Mills, Inc. Robert H. Chiostergi 770-969-1000 770-969-6846
Springf ield, LLC Len Fishman 917-421-6002 917-421-6009 len.f ishman@springf ieldllc.com

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[> [> Subject: Holographic confetti squares


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:49:09 03/15/01 Thu

Looking for holographic metalic confetti square material does anyone know of a source for this I need both silver and gold Not sure if this is the name of the material could also be called something else but that is what it looks like.

Replies:
-Joannes fabric stores carry it.

-Have you tried Threads of Green? I think they carry it.

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[> [> Subject: Bronze sequined or sparkly fabric-UK


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 19:42:08 03/15/01 Thu

Please does anyone know where I can get some Bronze sequined or sparkly fabric, pref someone in England or Ireland?

Replies:
-Have you tried Borovick's, in London, yet? E-mail borovickfabrics@btclick.com

-Moores in Derry have a website and will send you out samples. They have some fantastic metallic silks!

-Have you used the metallic silks yet? I ordered a swatch card from a company, and there's a disclaimer on it about ANY kind of cleaning methods. They said since the silk will shrink but the metallic part doesn't, you'd end up with an extremely crinkly fabric........

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[> [> Subject: Confetti Dot


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 20:07:42 03/15/01 Thu

Does anyone know a good site online where I can order confetti dot fabric. I am looking specifically for a turquoise hologram dot.

Replies:
-Has anyone seen dot in a plum color? I saw it once in a local store but am driving myself crazy trying to find it again.
--Saw it in a store in downtown LA fabric district. You can get absolutely any color down there.
--I found the smaller sized dot in plum in JoAnn Fabric. Hancock Fabric carries it in purple in the larger sized dot-the size that you see on most dresses.

-There are 3 sources that I use for confetti dot. They are as follows:

Murielle Roy http://www.murielleroy.com
G Street fabric http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/
Britex Fabrics http://www.britexfabrics.com

The last company has a swatching service and will send you a small piece of the fabric for approval before sending an order.

-I have the regular turquoise confetti dot @ Irish Threads

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[> [> Subject: Dublin Sources


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:04:45 09/15/01 Sat

I am going to Ireland next week and would like to pick up some vilene and some neon fabrics etc. Can anyone recommend a place in or near Dublin? I will have limited time as I am going for business.

-Rainbow Fabrics which is just off O Connell St is a good place and there is a shop further down the same street going towards the railway station on the left hand side.

-Irish Dance Wear is in Cabel Street in Dublin and has every possible colour for a costume and every material.

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[> [> Subject: Metallic Silk


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 12:45:01 03/14/02 Thu

Metallic dupioni. Does anyone have a source in the US for metallics other than Super Silks? I have found a few in the fabric district of LA, but that is hit or miss. I need a reliable source.

Replies:
-Try Britex Fabrics in San Francisco (415) 392-2910 and also try www.equilter.com go to home dec and click on silk. They have a beautiful metallic gold and one or 2 others
-I don't know if you don't like Supersilks or ...? But, I have happily ordered from them, as well as Boroviks fabrics in England. They were both great and had material in my hands from both in just a few days.
--Don't get me wrong, I like Supersilk and have ordered from them, I'm just looking for some other colors, like metallic black, green, red etc
---Boroviks has some great metallics. And, surprisingly quick delivery considering it's in England.

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[> Subject: Cool Fabrics


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 21:23:35 03/13/01 Tue

I am looking into having a dress made for myself (i'm an adult dancer) and I will DEFINATELY need to have it made from a fabric that will breathe a little, and NOT show sweat stains (so silk is out). Any suggestions? I LOVE the look of the velvet, but I'm thinking that must be awfully hot.

Replies:
-100% cotton does breathe if you line the bodice with cotton. The polyesters are lighter weight but do not breathe.

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[> [> Subject: Best Fabrics to Select


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 14:20:26 03/15/01 Thu

I'm going to be getting my first solo dress for championships next year and the hardest part seems to be deciding what fabric I want. I tend to get hot very easily and sweat *alot* plus I'd prefer the dress to be fairly lightweight. I love the way velveteen looks (how it absorbs the light) but that's going to add weight. I also love the championship styles that are now in but raw silk will be way too fragile for me. Shantung is synthetic, I think, so it won't breathe. What are the best breathable, nonsynthetic, medium to lightweight fabrics to use for a dress? The dress body itself will be two-toned: black and medium green with gold sleeves and gold skirt lining. The black and green would look great in velveteen but I don't know what else.

Replies:
-Definitely not silk!. Perspiration stains do not come out. The only other breathable fabric is the 100% cotton ..velvet or velveteen. Unless you go with 100%wool gabardine. Also remember to line the bodice with 100% cotton. This is the only part of the dress that can breathe because the synthetic on your sleeves wonít. Then think about the rest. All the applique on the front bodice and the shawl on you back. What is actually left to " breathe"? The polyester shantung is very light weight and you can wear an absorbent cotton lycra top under it and save the dress.

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[> Subject: Dying Fabric


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:42:55 03/15/01 Thu


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[> Subject: Satin


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 18:14:22 03/15/01 Thu


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[> [> Subject: Best Satin Types


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 18:16:30 03/15/01 Thu

I am trying to decide what kind of satin to use for a dress lining and cape and cuffs. The dress is Gaberdine and I am TRYING to make it hand washable. It is a fairly simple school dress, (blue) with white lining. In the past the dress maker has used Bridal Satin, which says it is washable. It seems fairly heavy. Will that be hard to work with as I try to line the skirt? should I possibly use the bridal satin for the cape and cuffs, but a thinner material (also much cheaper) like acytate (spelling?) for the skirt lining? The Bridal Satin is $20 a yard at our local Joann's. Is that a reasonable price? Someone suggested that I use "slipper satin" but I can't find that around here. Is there another name for "slipper satin"? It seems that the people who work at the Joann's here aren't any better informed than I am.

Replies:
-$20 is way tooooooo much to pay, Walmart sometimes has it and so do home decor fabric stores. Use the heavier weight because it helps the skirt hang better.

-Don't use acetate lining if you want to wash the dress. Polyester ONLY. The heavier weight is better for applique because your base color can show through the light weight. $20.00 is too much . we don't spend that much even here in Canada

-Avoid the acetate -- totally unwashable! Look for a fairly heavy weight polyester satin -- you should be able to find it for 8-10 dollars a yard. Heavier weight will help the skirt and cape fall better and avoid show through. $20.00 a yard is way too much to pay -- perhaps the price is high as it is designated Bridal. JoAnn's has a few different satins -- look around the store and you'll probably find a better choice.

-I pay $5.99 a yard for our satin. The biggest problem with satin is that it "water stains" making it hard to press with an old iron like mine. You can, however, wash the whole peice and eliminate most of the staining. I have lined our beginners dress, gaberdine, lined in satin and the soft satin shawl in the washing machine in cold water, and then hung it up to dry...it looked perfect!

-Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, Il (on Main Street) has slipper satin in tons of colors for less than $5.00 per yard. It is what I use for the dresses that I make and it works and hangs very well. (It's heavy.) I plan on dry cleaning mine, but you should ask them if it is washable. Can't hurt to ask and I would not be supprised if it is because our school uses it on the simple school dresses. You do have to iron it!

-Slipper satin is also called baroque satin. It's usually around $9.99/yd at the JoAnn's in our area (S Florida). You might also try the dutchess satin from bridalfabric.com. I ordered from them. The service was prompt and the material fabulous!!

-Does Vogue Fabrics have a website? Will they send a swatch card?

-Vogue Fabrics does have a website. They are located in Evanston, Illinois, which is a suburb just north of Chicago. They told me their website is www.myvoguefabrics.com If you have other questions, their phone number is (847)864-9600.

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[> Subject: Weight of the Fabric


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 13:08:08 09/20/01 Thu

Does using a lighterweight material, like silk, really make a difference in the weight of the dress? Have you ever weighed a velvet solo dress and a silk dress to see how much they weigh? Everyone talks about how much lighter the silk dresses are. I understand that the silk would weigh less than the velvet, but when you add all those layers and stiffening and appliques, etc. I wonder if their is a measurable difference. The dresses I made my daughters are much lighter than the solo costume that we bought, but I used a different stiffener. I used velvet though and it is noticably lighter than the bought costume. I am considering the poly shantung, but I really prefer the velvet. It looks so lush and rich. If it really makes a major difference in the overall weight though, I'll consider switching for the sake of my daughters.

-My daughter has a new poly-shantung dress that she feels is much lighter and easier to dance in than her old velvet dress -- both home-made with same pattern and stiffener. I've now started a poly shantung dress for my younger daughter.

-I lifted one of the other girls' dresses made of silk by our dressmaker, and thought it must have fallen off the hanger--my daughter's dress could be used to do curls to keep your biceps in shape! Both made by the same dressmaker, and I think generally using the same stiffener. The sleeves on the silk dress are unlined glitterball material, so that may be a fair portion of the lightness, but even the body of the dress is much lighter.

-Have any dancers complained about the difference is weight? My daughter's school dress is quite heavy, and her soon-to-be completed solo is velvet/shantung combination. Just wondering if anyone has had problems or heard anything regarding this.

-I've made several costumes with poly shantung and Raw Silk and it makes a big difference to the weight of the finished costume.....even with the vilene and lots of applique!
Both my daughters have combination costumes of shantung with velvet front and at this time I don't think I'll ever make them all velvet costumes again..........

-For the past 7 dresses I've had, they've all been velvet. My most recent dress is silk and until I felt how light the silk dress is compared to my last velvet one I hadn't realized how heavy the velvet dresses actually are. I don't think I could ever go back to velvet now!

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[> Subject: Gabardine


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:19:23 10/10/01 Wed


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[> [> Subject: Price


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 16:27:07 10/10/01 Wed

While looking at purchasing fabric w/the embroidery done for a school dress someone else will put it together besides the schools normal seamstress (i need it quicker!!). The fabric price was at $80 for a navy gab. That's JUST the fabric. Does this seem expensive for gab.? It'd be just to make an adult sized dress, I thought it was a little pricey....is it?

-Yes, it is expensive. We pay $3.99 yd. for gabardine for our school dresses. The fabric, lining and embroidery floss comes to $75 all together.

-Where I'm at, Gab costs about $6 Canadian, at the most. $80 IS a lot, unless they have to import everything... but even still, that's still very expensive.

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[> Subject: Dress Shields


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 12:37:26 03/15/02 Fri


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[> [> Subject: Basic Info


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 12:41:28 03/15/02 Fri

I know these are talked about a lot, and I believe they are called dress shields ( the things that I guess protect your dress from sweat and the like) but what exactly are they, and where can they be found and for how much?

Replies:
- They are a crescent-shaped (sort of) piece of material. There are stick-on ones, which you throw away after wearing once or twice, or more permanent ones, which are sewn in. You can buy them at most fabric stores.
- I buy the permanent ones at JoAnn's and just pin them in, take them out to wash after each wearing, my daughter doesn't like the stick-on ones, they tend to bunch up

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[> Subject: Sequins


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 09:08:49 11/08/04 Mon


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[> [> Subject: Mod Podge to help secure


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 09:13:31 11/08/04 Mon

Some dressmaker's use Mod Podge over sewn and glitterdot sequins to help secure the sequins and prevent sequin loss. Test on a sample first.

Where do I get Mod Podge and what type?

--Paint it over the sequins and let dry. Test on scraps firstógoes on white but dries clear. Some dressmakers apply to the appliques before sewing, others do it after.

--You can get it at Michaels, Rag Shop, Jo Anns--use the glossy kind

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[> Subject: How To Put Fabric Swatches in a Computer Drawing


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 08:58:30 05/19/05 Thu

On a previous post in Dance.net, someone asked me how I was putting actual fabric in my drawings. I figured this might be helpful for other dressmakers too!! (For a better idea of what I am talking about, check out this, www.dancinirish.com/LightGold3.jpg)

First you need Adobe Photoshop 7.0 to do it. I don't think the previous versions have the function you need (I could be wrong).

1. Take a picture or scan in your fabric swatches.

2. Crop it so no frayed edges show and you only have a square of just that fabric. You can use the images found on websites too.

3. Go to Image and then Image Size. Make sure the resolution is 72 dpi.

4. Then go to Filter and Pattern Maker. Your swatch will be in the middle of the page. Click and drag a marqueed square around it and click generate. The pattern maker will scramble up the image so keep clicking it until you find one that matches the original best. Click OK and it will ask you what to save it as. Name it and click OK.

5. Now go back to your sketch of your dress. Click on the pouring paint bucket and up top in a drop down box, it will say "Foreground". Click down and choose "Pattern" and choose your swatch. Now you can fill in your picture with the fabric swatch you chose.

This way you can get a better feel for what a dress will look like when done and nothing permanent can be started. You might start and realize that those colors look like crap together. This way, it will save you the headache.

from MT

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