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Roofing and Siding since 1985
Sat, May 16 2026, 1:48amLogin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1[2]3 ]

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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 17 2002, 6:32am
Author: A Roofer
Subject: Re: Flat roof repair- torching it - rubberizing HELP
In reply to: Maryanne 's message, "Flat roof repair- torching it - rubberizing HELP" on Thu, Nov 14 2002, 6:48am

You have gotten a bunch of estimates and you think they are all outrageous? You mean there is a conspiracy among all roofing contractors to rip you off? Why didn't you tell me what the estimates came in at for this? Would I have been astonished that you would find them to be outrageous? I might have told you to continue shopping?

What paper? Torchdown has a cap sheet nailed down to the deck then the torchdown is torched onto the cap sheet. Do you own a torch? You can ruin torchdown if you get it too hot with the torch. Yes, you should go to the wood! Replace all the scuppers. The most important thing is that you repair the deck once you get to the wood where I'm pretty sure you'll find water damage. If it had only one layer on it I could say go over it but not with how you make it sound. Is it possible that under the top layers there might be a hot mop roof under all this? I think you should pay someone to do it right! Make sure they state everything they will do in writing and give a WRITTEN workmanship warranty. Its a pretty good rule that the most defined proposals get the best work. I don't think you should do this yourself.

Tim Soth / A Roofer

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Replies:

[> [> Re: Flat roof repair- torching it - rubberizing HELP -- homedude, Tue, Nov 19 2002, 3:15pm

Two years ago I hired out my low pitch dormer roof. 30 x 24, 1/12 pitch. Had rolled roofing, one layer. Leaked like a sieve. I looked at torch-down asphalt, but liked the durability of EPDM. I went with full adhesion fibre re-inforced 1/16" thick EPDM. This was a two day job for 2 pros. Strip of 1 layer rolled, clean the deck, attach substrate ( a spongy wood/paper board to provide support and impact give/resistance) and glue and stick two 12' wide passes of EPDM. Only had 1 protrusion to go around. Total cost was $3500. Not cheap, but a professional job that will last at least 10-15 years and is way easier to patch ( i.e. more EPDM and some rubber cement ) than torch-down asphalt ( i.e. tar and pray ). Looking back I could have done the EPDM myself, but the artwork was the metal flashing to secure it at the edges where it is most vulnerable. That was best left to pros with more patience with metal forming than I. Good Luck!


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