蟹宴（2005/11/05） -- 舒展超之大玩派

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Subject: 蟹宴（2005/11/05）

Author:
舒展超

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Date Posted: 13:11:12 11/05/05 Sat

說起大閘蟹，總會想起多年來赴過的釵h「蟹宴」。
其實早年（七、八十年代）吃大閘蟹在港並不普及，大閘蟹只在一些稱為「南貨店」的上海雜貨舖有售，幫襯的都是上海人。我有幸生於上海家族，故自小就愛到「蟹膏」的薰陶。每年秋冬交接，家中定必有幾次「蟹宴」，齊集各房家族成員，大快朵頤。
後來香港經濟起飛，售價頗貴的大閘蟹得以大舉襲港、擴展市場。九十年代，我在某大報館任職時，大老闆就曾派人直接到洋澄湖採購，把好幾十籮大閘蟹空運到報館食堂，舉行盛大的「蟹宴」，以慰勞全體員工。
當時情景，至今仍歷歷在目。我那桌坐了十二、三人，廚師端來了一大盤大閘蟹，少算也有三十來隻！只見大家一擁而上，每人先取蟹兩大隻！然而大閘蟹陸續有來，廚師不久又端來第二、第三盤！
正所謂「老細出錢、伙記出命」，吃到後來，只見有些人明明已吃不下了，竟也照樣取蟹，只吃蟹膏、棄掉蟹腳！搏命如此，實則乃十分折墮也！
我那次，吃了五隻蟹，但保證隻隻落肚，絕無浪費。後來香港經濟走下坡，這種「蟹宴」也成了絕響。

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