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Subject: Rust In Sprinkler System


Author:
Jerry
[Edit]
Date Posted: 09:27:58 05/10/08 Sat
(adsl-074-170-038-197.sip.mco.bellsouth.net/74.170.38.197)
Is there anything that can be done to prevent rust from a sprinkler system run off of a well?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Jerry

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Replies:
Subject: -Shallow well Troubleshooting


Author:
Wilson (Tired)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 12:41:30 05/05/08 Mon
(NoHost/208.60.35.95)
Hi !

I've started to dig a shallow well and drove 25 feet of a 2 inches pvc pipe. 10 feet is stuck into sand and the remaining 15 feet that I connect through inside coupling came off ungled with the water pressure. Iam able to re-attach it but it comes off when the wahter pressure builds up.

Any ideas on how I can secure it so I can continue the work?

I've tried a few things: Inserted a 3/4 pipe down the hole and added water pressure to see if I could release the 2inches pipe; no luck. The 3/4 pipe went down to 40 feet.

Can I continue to drive the 1 1/4 at this point?

I'd hate to start everything all over again.

Thanks for not laughing.!!!

Wilson

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Replies:
Subject: New Well Project


Author:
Russ Wegner (Russ Wegner)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 14:40:24 05/08/08 Thu
(c-71-236-177-40.hsd1.wa.comcast.net/71.236.177.40)
I called a driller and he said that if I went on the Washington State site for Ecology under well logs that I would find out if I had water or not at 20-25 Ft.

I live near a stream and not far from a Wetland... He suggested I would not.

Anyone know where I can get help with my project around Camas/ Vancouver, WA? Thanks Russ (rwegner@lmi.net)

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Replies:
Subject: Washed Well for irrigation - learning as I go :)


Author:
Tommy
[Edit]
Date Posted: 06:42:47 04/22/08 Tue
(user-24-214-105-142.knology.net/24.214.105.142)
I have washed a 2" PVC down to 26 ft and the static water level is 8 ft from the ground surface. This would give me 18 ft of water in the pipe. The sand looks like a medium grit sand at this level.

Question:

1. Since this well is at 26 ft and the static water is 8 ft, would a 1 1\4 - .010 - 5 ft long well screen be a good choice? If this is not a good choice, what would you suggest?

2. If the static water level were to reach below the 18 ft level, the top of the 5 ft well screen, would the pump stop pumping water?

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Replies:
Subject: Water hammer


Author:
Al Wolff
[Edit]
Date Posted: 15:05:54 05/05/08 Mon
(ip68-229-67-136.ri.ri.cox.net/68.229.67.136)
I have a 14 year old 200 ft well with a submersible pump. Recently it has started making a banging noise about 1 second after the motor starts. The Bladder type air tank is OK with 30 lbs of pressure. There is a 1 inch check valve just before the tee that leads to the house pipes and the expansion tank.
The noise is noticeable throughout the house but no surge or air comes out of the faucets. Will this damage anything and how do I fix it?
Thanks
Al

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Replies:
Subject: well pump size


Author:
jim hess
[Edit]
Date Posted: 18:34:10 05/05/08 Mon
(cache-dtc-ah09.proxy.aol.com/205.188.117.201)
I am putting in a new well for my cottage in northern michigan. The cottage has 3 1/2 baths and am thinking about putting in a sprinkler system at a later date. The well depth has been estimated to be around 120 feet. I have gotten several quotes and the size of the pump varies from 1/2 hp to 1hp. Do you have any recommendations regarding what size pump I would need for this cottage.

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Replies:
Subject: New Sprinkler Pump Pressure Problem


Author:
Jerry
[Edit]
Date Posted: 08:19:18 04/13/08 Sun
(adsl-074-170-038-197.sip.mco.bellsouth.net/74.170.38.197)
I recently installed two wells in Central Florida using the Brady method. Both are 1 1/4" wells about 24' deep with the water level at about 17'. I rented a 5 hp gas pump from Lowes to develop and test them with. They produced very well.

#1 produced 26 gpm at startup and went down to 19 GPM after 1 hour of continous pumping.
#2 produced 18 GPM at startup and went down to 12 GPM after 1 hour of continous pumping.
Then I purchased my pump a 1 1/2HP Flotec Plastic sprinkler pump. I then Teed the two wells together into an 1/1/2" brady check valve (It appeared to be the best check valve).

I then tested it again right at the pump, with the combined wells and the new pump and I was able to get 20GPM. So that seemed plenty.

I then fed this into my existing sprinler system. My largest zones are 6 x 3gpm heads or 18 GPM. It appeared that the 1 1/2 HP Flotec should be plenty.

However here is the problem:

#1 Should it take 4 to 5 minutes to produce water after the pump has been primed?

#2 When running on the large zones the sprinkler pressure surges. It goes from full power down to just a small spray. It will cycle like this over and over about every 30 seconds. It does not do this on the small zones. If I try to start it up an hour later it will take it another 4 to 5 minutes to start producing water. Then the surging starts again.

Is this a suction leak?

If so how do I find it?

If it is a suction leak, do you think it is before the check valve or after it? Since it is taking 4 to 5 minutes to start producing water.

My pressure guage is only showing about 29 to 30 lbs, shouldn't this be higher?

Do I need a bigger pump?

Thanks for your help.

Jerry

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Replies:
Subject: Well Re-use


Author:
Tom
[Edit]
Date Posted: 12:01:27 04/28/08 Mon
(adsl-233-198-145.mia.bellsouth.net/74.233.198.145)
Again, I want to thank you all for your help. Reading this board and your answers has helped me greatly understand how wells work, and make me undertake a new project. Setting a well. I have several questions before undertaking this, so here they are. I like to try and Think through everything prior to doing.

The quote for a new well was $1200.00 I Love to do projects, and this seems like a cool one. Should I just pay for this? It is for sprinklers only, so it is never potable.

1. Can I reuse the existing well? If I pull the pipe, can I simply sink a new pipe in the existing hole.

1a. If I cannot reuse the existing well, I believe that I should pour concrete down the pipe. Since the well is 30', and the water table is at 9', do I need to put 21' of concrete down the pipe? Can I cut the existing pipe off beneath the ground once this is done, or how do I properly cap the well off to abandon it.

2. How far away should the new well head be from the old one?

3. Should I use the same depth for the new one as the old one?

4. How should I set? I'm a little worried about coral since I'm within 3 miles of the coast. If I go an inexpensive way, I don't mind trying two or three times (Washing v driving)

5. Any thoughts from anyone of anything I haven't thought about?


HD and Lowes both sell all types of points and screens and what not, and the guys there aren't sure how to even use them. I've read the Brady method, and the parent page to this site, and either seems good to me.

Again, Thank you all for your help.

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Replies:
Subject: Need Direction-New Well used for Irrigation System Poor Performance in one of the sprinkler zones


Author:
Marc Stewart
[Edit]
Date Posted: 10:04:05 05/03/08 Sat
(c-68-60-38-48.hsd1.mi.comcast.net/68.60.38.48)
I would appreciate any guidance or direction anyone could provide me. I am lacking much of the technical information at this point that would be required to hone in on an actual 'root cause' however I am hoping that someone can help me get pointed in the right direction.

BACKGROUND:

I had a house built two years ago. At the time the city had not run water to my subdivision (new development). In order for people to move into their new homes the builder had wells dug. Once the city had run water to the homes the homeowner could decide to seal the well.etc. Most homeowners kept the wells to run their irrigation systems.

PROBLEM:
I had my sprinkler system put in after city water was available and hooked it directly to my well. I live on a small 1/4 acre lot and have 5 sprinkler zones. The first summer all of the zones seemed to have enough pressure to allow the sprinklers to run properly (40PSI I recall). The second year most of the zones are peforming adequately, however 2 of the zones are not working well at all. These zones are a bit larger than the others but not by much. I have had the sprinkler company out 3 times. They have said that the well is either running dry, not pumping water out fast enough...or that they don't know, however the sprinklers themselves are tuned and running perfectly. The neighbors to the left and to the right me me (and all that I have spoken to in my sub) all have good pressure on their sprinklers.

I had guy come out (independent sprinkler company) and winterize my system last year and he just fired it up for the summer. He tuned my holding tank to increase the pressure. For the most troublesome zone he has it set to 50PSI, however when the zone kicks in drops to 30 and I get very poor performance (ie heads won't lift up all the way......etc). He said flat out that I need a more powerful pump.

I know I need to pull my well log. The driller who put the well in 2 years ago for the builder won't come to see me for less than 500 bucks to perform a flow test. If I have to pay I have to pay but am looking for some insight here before pull out my check book.

Any help would be appreciated. Thx Much

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Replies:
Subject: PSI won't go above 20


Author:
Pat Warren
[Edit]
Date Posted: 06:33:13 04/26/08 Sat
(74-32-63-64.dsl1.mdl.ny.frontiernet.net/74.32.63.64)
We replaced our pump and water tank. Cut in is at 20 Cut off is at 40 as manufacturer states. We don't know how to check if that is correct. The tank was set to 38psi when we first turned it on and the pump was going on and off. Then we set water tank to 18 psi and the pump goes on. We have water pressure in the faucets when on, but the tank psi won't go above 20psi. And the pump doesn't shut off. Husband thinks the problem is in the well - cracked line or faulty foot value. Although instructions say if faulty value the pump will go on and off. It doesn't. We have a 86 gal. tank. Could it be that it is taking too long to fill? Could it be air in the line? We have a positive well so with nothing on the pipes the water just flows out so we know the pump is primed. Help please, my husband needs a shower bad!!!!

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Replies:
Subject: Air in the line


Author:
Mike (nervous)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 13:12:36 04/28/08 Mon
(24-183-176-70.dhcp.oxfr.ma.charter.com/24.183.176.70)
I have replaced the pressure tank and all fittings in the house about 4 months ago and everything was fine until last week. I started getting air in the lines. After checking out what I could I am thinking its a foot valve in the well it self. Any advise? Oh here are the symptons

Air the longer it sits so in the morning the shower spits at you and when you flush

water pressure has not changed

I have disconnected the foot valve in the house and it seems fine

Checked the pressure tank and is hoplding at 38PSI

When I have the foot valve off in the house and just the plastic pipe coming out of the wall from the well and the pump off you can hear it draining back to the well. Is that normal?

Water is clear and no dirt or sand.

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Replies:
Subject: Well Problems


Author:
Tom
[Edit]
Date Posted: 19:35:58 04/25/08 Fri
(adsl-233-198-145.mia.bellsouth.net/74.233.198.145)
I've read the messages here, and am seeking the help of all here, with the hope of repairing our well.

We are in South Florida, and have a well with a pump. The pump is a 2hp centrifugal pump, and the well head appears to be 2-1/2". When we moved in, the well would run all the sprinklers, but has steadily trickled down.

Today I opened up the lines, and ran a line directly to a bucket to measure the pressure. we are getting apprx 6GPM, where looking at our old zones, they were designed for 20-22 GPM. Needless to say, we are not watering very well here.

I have a few thoughts, and want to see where everyone here thinks I should start from.

1. Disassemble the pump to evaluate the condition. We get a lot of orange crap (I think it's rust?) in our lines, so the pump may be clogged.

2. remove the check valve and check the water depth. (I do not know the depth, or who tapped the well.) if the well has water
a. Take our hose and flush the well as best as I can.
Should I create a custom wand depending on the depth(Such as using a jet point on a piece of pvc pipe to scrub the well.
b. Find the pills that folks talk about to acid wash the screen.

3. I am concerned that the well pipe leaks. is there a way to re-line a well, or would I be better off simply setting a new well and capping off the existing well.

Thanks all for you thoughts on how to improve our well.

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Replies:
Subject: Seeking advice on adding irrigation system


Author:
Jim (Southern NH)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 14:26:46 04/24/08 Thu
(pool-71-168-118-219.cncdnh.fios.verizon.net/71.168.118.219)
My home has a dug well. The water flow in the home has always been good. The flow via a 1/2 copper pipe to a faucet head then through a garden hose, is about 6.5 gallons a minute. In 20 years, the well has never run dry. I've just had two estimates done to add a lawn irrigation system. One contractor recommends a 5-6 zone system with two spray heads on each zone. He said, I can then switch between different zones and not overtax the(1/2 hp)jet pump or well. The other contractor said all I need is a two zone system with 6 spay heads each. He would install a regulator that will monitor the water pressure and shut the water flow off if the water pressure drops to a set point then start the flow again when the presure has rebuilt.
I could use some unbiased advice on what would be the best option.

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Replies:
Subject: Quality of WaterSource well points?


Author:
Ellen
[Edit]
Date Posted: 09:21:00 04/24/08 Thu
(66-162-201-130.static.twtelecom.net/66.162.201.130)
I am about to buy materials to drive in a well to a depth of about 25 feet. When I go the Northern Tool Site their well points are made by WaterSource. The 2 inch diameter one gets lousy reviews and the 1 1/4 inch one gets great reviews. The main complaints were the 2 inch ones were flimsy and broke or bent when driven. Anybody have experience with them that they can share with me? It makes no sense to me that one would be better than the other. Also, cast iron has been mentioned as an alternative to stainless steel for well points. Any thoughts about this?

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Replies:
Subject: Seeking advice on adding irrigation system


Author:
Jim
[Edit]
Date Posted: 14:23:06 04/24/08 Thu
(pool-71-168-118-219.cncdnh.fios.verizon.net/71.168.118.219)
My home has a dug well. The water flow in the home has always been good. The flow via a 1/2 copper pipe to a faucet head then through a garden hose, is about 6.5 gallons a minute. In 20 years, the well has never run dry. I've had two estimates done to add a lawn irrigation system. One contractor recommends a 5-6 zone system with two spray heads on each zone. He said, I can then switch between different zones and not overtax the(1/2 hp)jet pump or well. The other contractor said all I need is a two zone system with 6 spay heads each and a regulator that will monitor the water pressure and shut the water flow off if the water pressure drops to a set point then start the flow again when the presure has rebuilt.
I could use some unbiased advice on what would be best.

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Subject: Water well for sprinkler system and house


Author:
Kyle
[Edit]
Date Posted: 20:00:13 04/13/08 Sun
(NoHost/72.171.0.139)
I am in the process of moving into out new house and was thinking about a water sprinkler system. The well should be drilled plumbed etc in the next 2 weeks or so.

My question is, can I run my sprinkler system off of the same well as the house? How do I regulate the pressure, and how much pressure usually goes to the house and how much to a sprinkler system.

I have researched a little, but can't really find this info.

Thanks,
Kyle

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Replies:
Subject: 2" sandpoint sprinkler system well - planning


Author:
Chris (Learning)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 19:23:55 04/08/08 Tue
(c-68-60-160-71.hsd1.mi.comcast.net/68.60.160.71)
I am in the planning stages of my irrigation well. My neighbors have wells 25-28 ft deep. Based on this I believe I will have to use a deep well system (to be safe). From going over the site and reading the posts - I am guessing the packer ejector deep well setup is my only option with a 2" sandpoint driven well. Am I correct in this assumption? Thanks for your help.

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Replies:
Subject: What type of well point to use


Author:
Tommy
[Edit]
Date Posted: 15:44:49 04/09/08 Wed
(user-24-214-105-215.knology.net/24.214.105.215)
I'm in the process of making a shallow well to irrigate my lawn. I need your advice on what direction I should go.

So far, I have taken a 10 ft. metal pipe and taped a 4" diameter arger with duck tape to the end of the pipe. I put this in the ground and twisted the pipe about 3 turns, then pulled the pipe out to dump the dirt. I hit water about 7 1/2 ft. down. I have been able to go about 1 1/2 feet more but all I get now is very wet sand. I am at 9 feet but can not go any deeper using this method.

I would like to go about 20 to 25 feet down with a 2 inch 5' long PVC .010 well point. To do this, I would use the Brady system if I use a PVC drill point. The other method I could use is the drive method with 3/4 pipe with a stainless steel drill point not sure what gauge 60 or 80 would be best. I'm not sure which method would be the right way to go.

The stainless steel well points that I have seen online are 36" long. Which would give the most water?

I'm looking at 3 wells and use one 1 hp jet pump.

Your advice would be helpful.

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Replies:
Subject: sta rite pump


Author:
gordon (stumped)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 15:19:43 02/24/08 Sun
(cblmdm72-241-112-150.buckeyecom.net/72.241.112.150)
I have a sta rite pump on a 12 gallon tank that lost its prime and quit working about two weeks ago. i have the same pump and tank for my garden so i'm using that now with no problems. I bought a rebuilding kit for the first pump. when i took it apart everything looked fine but I replaced it anyhow. darned if it still won't prime. motor sounds fine. any ideas before I by a new one would be appreciated!! thanks

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Replies:
Subject: Mud pump


Author:
Tommy
[Edit]
Date Posted: 20:42:32 04/07/08 Mon
(user-24-214-105-215.knology.net/24.214.105.215)
Is there another name for a mud pump. I have heard people using a mud pump when washing a well. After you have drilled down to wet sand or as deep as you need to go, you use the mud pump to pump out sand at the bottom of the well. The sand caves in and you pump the sand out creating a reservior for your wellpoint. I have been unable finding such a pump for the rental stores. They have a trash pump for dirty water only but not for pumping sand.

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Replies:
Subject: Sanitary hand pump


Author:
Scott (help)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 12:27:58 04/01/08 Tue
(NoHost/24.248.158.103)
I have a Baker Monitor force-type hand pump on a well where I'm building my house, where I hoped to live without electricity. I've learned that the county health department requires a pressurized water system for dwellings. Can I adapt a hand pump to do this, or to otherwise satisfy the code's aim of preventing contamination from air when water flows back through the weep hole below the frost line?

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Replies:
Subject: Washed Well Help


Author:
Tommy
[Edit]
Date Posted: 12:51:24 04/01/08 Tue
(user-24-214-105-215.knology.net/24.214.105.215)
I live in Montgomery, AL. I want to drill a washed well to water my yard. I have read a number of web sites on how to drill a shallow well. Brady had good instructions on the way to do this. I'm not clear on (1)how deep the well should be (2) what type of wellpoint with slots and how many to place on the final PVC pipe (3) what does the 2-3 GPM per foot mean? Is it the feet of the slotted wellpoint? The slotted wellpoint is 4', therefore I should get 8 to 12 GPM of water if I have a good well?
(4) what type of pump should I use?

Thanks,
You advice would be helpful.

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Replies:
Subject: installing a well by using an air compressor


Author:
r staudt
[Edit]
Date Posted: 16:56:12 03/31/08 Mon
(ool-18bd33da.dyn.optonline.net/24.189.51.218)
does anyone have experience installing a small diameter(2") well using a large capacity air compressor(125 cfm) They refer to it as blowing in a well and I'm interested on how its done
Thanks

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Subject: help, advice please


Author:
nick devonshire (struggling)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 02:50:40 03/25/08 Tue
(B94_acl1.gw.smartbro.net/203.84.185.154)
Hi everybody,
I am building a beachfront house in the philippines, i have to create a well but cannot buy proper fitting so i will have to improvise, i can create a drive point easily enough but the only joiners are iron with a re'enforcing ring around them,

I'm worried that the oversize joints will make it difficult to drive in, if i machine them off i'm afraid they will be too weak,

Also will ordinary galv pipe be ok for the point and screen, and how long a section should be perforated.

Many Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: old well


Author:
rob roberts
[Edit]
Date Posted: 13:44:30 03/24/08 Mon
(d149-67-28-150.col.wideopenwest.com/67.149.150.28)
I have an 2in. well hasn't been used in 20 years its 25 feet deep and water sits in it at about 15feet. It was powered by an old piston pump I replaced the leathers on the rods fired it up but no water came out. I tried a hand pump but still no water.Any ideas would be appreciated.My son and I started to drive a new well right next to the old one only got to 12 feet driving very difficult (1 1/4)so I thought I'd go back to the old well. thanks rob

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Subject: how to pull submerged pump to make it non-electric


Author:
Daniel (hopeful)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 00:03:24 03/16/08 Sun
(adsl-227-14-253.jan.bellsouth.net/74.227.14.253)
My parents have an old submered pump well. the pump quit several years back, since they also had city water they never fixed the well. How would you cheaply pull the pump and use as a bucket well. I believe the caseing is 3 or 4". It has a tank so I assume it is a deep well. Over a hundred feet. thanks for any help.

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Replies:
Subject: Driving Point Well


Author:
Lou
[Edit]
Date Posted: 07:13:02 03/12/08 Wed
(static-72-85-254-141.bstnma.east.verizon.net/72.85.254.141)
I'm interested in driving a point well, my area of interest per the Web Soil Survey is 100% "freetown muck". I live on the edge of a lake and most of the year it is full of water (we currently have a pvc line submerged and are pumping out only for lawn irrigation nothing more). By the end of the summer this area dries up, but I'm wondering if I drive a point well at the edge, if this will sustain water? The area is about 10' below the grade of the home/shed where the pump is located now so we pump uphill by priming the line first.

Thanks for any replies
Lou

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Replies:
Subject: no water


Author:
janet
[Edit]
Date Posted: 10:33:54 03/11/08 Tue
(cpe-65-185-105-6.woh.res.rr.com/65.185.105.6)
My husband and bought our house about a year ago,we have a well but we run out of water very easily.Ican do 1 load of laundry and a shower and it will be out.It takes about 3-4 hrs to come back does any one have any suggestions.Please Help. Thanks janet

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Replies:
Subject: Which rig would you reccomend


Author:
Richard
[Edit]
Date Posted: 18:52:59 03/02/08 Sun
(NoHost/144.226.230.37)
I have been considering drilling my own water well and have been researching different portable rigs that are available. I was wondering if anyone has any reccomendations as to which one if any is better to use. I have looked at the Rockmaster tx 450, the hydra 2000 by Hydrafab, the ls200 very little info found on this one, as well as a few others. Any input regarding this would be greatly appreciated and very helpful in making my decision. Thanks, Richard Fleming

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Replies:
Subject: setting up pump & old style pressure tank


Author:
Richard
[Edit]
Date Posted: 10:21:44 03/05/08 Wed
(70-41-174-143.cust.wildblue.net/70.41.174.143)
I'm setting up a pump and an old style pressure tank (non bladder type)for my outside watering needs. We just happened to have one of these tanks my dad gave us when he got city water sitting around.Although I feel the bladder tank is more efficient, I would prefer to not have the additional expense of buying one. It's already got the air chuck installed.

Can any body give me any advice on setting up the system? Do I need to add any air to the tank initially?

Thanks

Richard

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Replies:
Subject: water wells


Author:
john
[Edit]
Date Posted: 16:20:24 02/21/08 Thu
(CPE704b2e8ecd34-CM00111adf89d4.cpe.net.cable.rogers.com/99.243.126.247)
i was going to build a water well model for a university project, i was just wondering if you fellow people can give me advice on how to build the model of a water well and what to use :(

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Replies:
Subject: water table


Author:
Nancy (help)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 11:52:28 02/22/08 Fri
(24-178-32-135.dhcp.rcpt.tx.charter.com/24.178.33.135)
My husband and I are using a sand point and we are down 17 feet and have hit water,I think we are in the second round of clay.My question is where can we find out about the water table for Aransas County(Rockport)Tx.?If anyone can please help us...The water will not be used for drinking...

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Replies:
Subject: Sprinkler Well problems


Author:
Mike Thomas (Angry)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 18:56:07 02/17/08 Sun
(c-66-177-247-189.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/66.177.247.189)
Hello,
I live in Florida. I have a 2" well driven to about 120 ft. The static water level is about 20' now. For some reason, after a year of good service, I am getting sand into my heads. I installed a in-line sand filter, but it quickly clogs with very fine sand; thus, the system clogs.

Someone told me a drop pipe would help the problem (I am drawing off the casing) So, I purchased a 2 4' sections of PVC well points ( 1 1/4) and 40 ft of pipe, connected it all, and dropped it into my well. The pressure went to half of what it was.

Now, I am at whits end. Is there a way to clear the well of sand? Anyone have some ideas?

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Replies:
Subject: help please


Author:
anne mcfarland (really scared)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 21:04:14 02/02/08 Sat
(Kinde-78-232.dyn.avci.net/66.211.78.232)
I live in michigan and we had a relly bad storm that took out everything. forze everything. it has froze before so no biggie well my husband went out to get it working andnoticed the water pump was cracked so they replace the motor and everything and now they cant get it working is there something he can do to make it work so we can have water that wont cost very much. is there anyone out there that can help me? please i would appreciate it.

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Subject: Brown Water from our Faucet suddenly


Author:
Sandra Gagnon
[Edit]
Date Posted: 20:02:27 02/01/08 Fri
(NoHost/204.72.180.250)
My husband just ran the water from the kitchen sink and it was reddish brown. I have let some sit to see if there is sediment. No result yet.
What could it be...we are clueless.
We are on a well and have a Kinetico water softener. The hot water is still clear. We are at a loss of what to do.
Please help...Thank you.
Sandy and Jack

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Replies:
Subject: Shallow well pump shuts off


Author:
Mike (confused)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 14:46:43 02/02/08 Sat
(12-218-67-154.client.mchsi.com/12.218.67.154)
I have a 1/2 hp myers jet pump with a 7 mo old well which is 25' deep. Sometimes when I run water for a long time (shower) etc. the water will stop. After anywhere from 5-15 minutes of no use it will come on again. I have a galvanized (not pressurized tank) that never has had an air volume control and the tank is not waterlogged. Can anyone offer any suggestions.

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Replies:
Subject: New well problems


Author:
Dan
[Edit]
Date Posted: 23:18:49 02/02/08 Sat
(NoHost/166.230.140.178)
I had a new well drilled, 140ft. 4" 1hp pump. While flowing well to clean it out the pump will run for 40 minutes and shut off. Disconnect power and turn it back on there is no clicking sound from motor control box. If it is off for an hour or so and restarted it works fine for another 40 minutes. Then the same thing. Is the motor control bad or is the pump overheating? It is a Pentek CSIR box with a Pentek 3 wire 230V pump.

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Replies:
Subject: Overflowing well


Author:
Mike
[Edit]
Date Posted: 12:34:19 02/02/08 Sat
(cpe-24-24-93-234.stny.res.rr.com/24.24.93.234)
I have a fairly new well driven at my camp. The well is 125' deep and is in bedrock. The water has been tested and is potable. In the springtime, when the water level of the camp lake is high and the ground is saturated with spring rains, the well overflows at the top of the well casing (18" above ground and sealed) causing somewhat of a mess around the well casing. Once the spring rains are over and the lake level is lower, the overflow stops. Can someone explain why this is happening and what can be done to divert the excess water when the well overflows ?

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Subject: wells in Las Vegas, NM


Author:
Marlene Rodarte
[Edit]
Date Posted: 09:41:39 02/01/08 Fri
(NoHost/67.61.153.127)
If anyone can give me some advise that would be greatly app.
I want to by a fixer upper house in las Vegas NM, property has a well that does not work not sure what the problem is. Can anyone refer me to a honest well contracter/driller/trouble shooter. What is the honest going rate to have a new well drilled. Whom do I ask about well drilling regulations/permits ects? I am clueless.
Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: deep well pump hole in casing


Author:
michael johnson (verry sad help???????)
[Edit]
Date Posted: 18:37:23 02/03/08 Sun
(24-247-204-171.dhcp.bycy.mi.charter.com/24.247.204.171)
i have a deep well pump and my pump runs all the time. we hade a well guy look at it and he said that it hade a hole in the casing i thank it is a to pipe system it is about 40years old. i was wondering if i could put pvc pipe down in side the casing around the to pipe to stop the water and shut of my pump ps i need help thank you michael

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Replies:
Subject: air in water


Author:
marsha baker
[Edit]
Date Posted: 08:32:45 11/25/07 Sun
(pool-71-186-79-94.chi01.dsl-w.verizon.net/71.186.79.94)
Put in a new sand point well,28 ft. down 11 ft of water in pipe , new pump and tank. problem alot of air in faucets after pump has run. water looks very milky for a minute are so .

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Replies:
Subject: pump slow to kick in


Author:
T. Prexhurst
[Edit]
Date Posted: 06:40:15 01/28/08 Mon
(75-168-79-7.mpls.qwest.net/75.168.79.7)
I have an 85 foot deep well. It has an above-ground jet pump. Lately, when using a lot of water - say to fill 4 5-gal buckets, or taking a shower, the flow will stop, and after about 5-10 seconds, the pump will kick in (I can hear it) and we have full pressure immediately. There is a relatively new bladder-type pressure tank. What is wrong?
ex

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Replies:
Subject: Broken well pipe/valve


Author:
Ron Cozart
[Edit]
Date Posted: 20:14:41 01/26/08 Sat
(c-76-110-47-19.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/76.110.47.19)
I live in Florida and have an old well that I use for yard irrigation only. Recently I accidently ran over my well PVC pipes. The pipe comes out of the ground and goes through a check valve and immediately returns to the ground and then to my pump. The pipes stayed broken for about 3 weeks. I replaced the piping but reused the check valve. I am not sure what the check valve is for but would imagine it is to prevent back flow. I turned the pump on and let it run for about 30 minutes but could not get any water pressure to my holding tank. I was afraid to run much longer because I was not sure that it would not damage the pump. What do you think? Does it take longer to create the suction (prime). It is about 75 feet from the pipes to the pump. The well is probably about 100 feet deep. Thanks for your help.

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Replies:
Subject: No Water


Author:
Samantha Gordon
[Edit]
Date Posted: 07:17:12 01/16/08 Wed
(NoHost/12.145.213.67)
Our neighbors had a new well dug. From the day they started drilling we haven't had water and nor have other surrounding neighbors. They've been done drilling for 2 days now and we still don't have water. What happened?

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Replies:
Subject: Buzz in Control Box


Author:
Rick
[Edit]
Date Posted: 07:36:29 01/23/08 Wed
(208-73-197-2.dyn.rystec.com/208.73.197.2)
3/4 Sta-rite sub pump. Works fine, just a buzz in box while pumping. It's an electronic box, not the older style. Did not used to make any sound. ???????? Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: R/O system tapped into 3/4" water line before filter and holding tank...OK?


Author:
rich tremblay
[Edit]
Date Posted: 06:32:11 01/20/08 Sun
(cpe-76-179-152-9.maine.res.rr.com/76.179.152.9)
I am considering installing my RO system to my 3/4" well water line before the the house filter and holding tank. Is this OK? The reason being is the pressure after the tank fluctuates between 20-50 psi when we are using non drinking water and the pressure before the tank and filter remains constant The RO sytem wastes alot of water to get the final product to the RO holding tank so it takes alot of time to fill it. I figured the installing the RO system this way would save time filling the RO holding tank. Am I on the right track. We are only going to use the RO for drinking water and ice for the fridge.

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Replies:
Subject: Convertible Pump


Author:
Joe Honeycutt
[Edit]
Date Posted: 18:02:38 01/12/08 Sat
(h142.39.134.98.ip.windstream.net/98.134.39.142)
I just installed a convertible pump to replace my shallow well pump. My father in law told me to not install the ejector on to the pump, but rather plug the bottom hole and just use the one inlet to the pump. It does pump but, I do not have a lot of pressure, I think it is because of the ejector not being there causing it. Can somewhere verify whether or not you have to install the ejector on the convertible pumps or can you just plug the second hole.

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Replies:
Subject: pump kicking on without turning on any water


Author:
john carper
[Edit]
Date Posted: 13:02:16 01/04/08 Fri
(adsl-99-164-42-106.dsl.akrnoh.sbcglobal.net/99.164.42.106)
my pump is kicking on about every hour without running the water ? and i can find no leak !what is up please help

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