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Subject: SS well screen


Author:
Mark
[Edit]

Date Posted: 13:44:02 02/06/10 Sat
(ip68-2-128-212.ph.ph.cox.net/68.2.128.212)

Hi

When you have an 6 inch well drilled the driller always recommends a stainles steel scree at the bottom (for obvious reasons) Does this need to be ss or can it be PVC. I see they usually want to charge 1,000.00 dollars or more.

Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: Where to buy a sand point??


Author:
Mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 15:19:40 02/05/10 Fri
(63-231-243-124.mpls.qwest.net/63.231.243.124)

I hope you can point me in the right direction.

My well is an older sandpoint and needs to be replaced.
I plan on pulling it when it gives out. Its only 16' down, will pulling it be a problem?

Where can a person buy a sandpoint????
I've only found Northern Tool and TSC.

I'm located on about 30-40ft of sand, is there a certain gauge mesh that would be best ????

I thank you for your time. Its great that you help people out.
Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: Size of submersible pump?


Author:
rman
[Edit]

Date Posted: 16:23:49 02/04/10 Thu
(ool-44c50883.dyn.optonline.net/68.197.8.131)

today my well driller completed a 250 foot deep well that is producing 25 Gpm. He suggests setting the pump at 125 feet. What size submersible pump do i need for a single family home with two people most of the time. Is a 1/2 hp 10 Gpm a good start? Also how do i drill the hole in the casing for the pitless adapter?
Thanks
Rm

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Replies:
Subject: Damaged threads


Author:
Ace Blinko
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:18:51 02/01/10 Mon
(adsl-77-67-11.mia.bellsouth.net/98.77.67.11)

I have recently dug a new 30' well using a well point and 5' sections of 2" galvanized pipe. My heavy handed brother drove in the last section and damaged the threads between the top and next to top joint. What is a good way to seal that joint 5' down? The well is sound otherwise. Thanks, Ace

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Replies:
Subject: Cleansing a well


Author:
Paul T.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07:29:35 01/05/10 Tue
(linkbelt.com/65.163.62.2)

I've heard somewhere about the process of "cleansing" an existing well. It had something to do with pouring clorine bleach down the well, then pumping water out, putting the bleach water back in the well, and repeating the recirculation process for a while.

Can anyone explain the truth or rumor of this process?

Thanks,
Paul T.

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Replies:
Subject: water well will lose pressure


Author:
steve
[Edit]

Date Posted: 17:58:32 01/31/10 Sun
(69-29-110-178.dyn.centurytel.net/69.29.110.178)

I live in evergreen,la. I have a private water well which will lose pressure. I have to pour water down this little valve until pressure is restore. The times that I am losing pressure are starting to become more frequent. Also I have the smell of rotten eggs in my lines sometimes. What must I do to correct both problem?

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Replies:
Subject: very low flow


Author:
william Ruple
[Edit]

Date Posted: 13:37:15 05/15/08 Thu
(NoHost/206.123.217.138)

I live in new mexico.I have a well that was on my property when I bought, 25 years ago. It used to supply the 1 acre site, with plenty of water.When we got city water, I quit using it. Recently I installed a submerged pump, but after 6 minutes, it quits producing. i CAN UNPLUG IT FOR 10 MINUTES,then it will have lots of pressure for 5 minutes then quit.About 20 years ago, I had this problem, and found a man that put a blasting cap down the well, after it exploded, I had water again. Could this be done again? I welcome any advice.

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Replies:
Subject: no water


Author:
Maurice Bachus (sad, and confused)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11:55:44 01/23/10 Sat
(adsl-67-192-250.shv.bellsouth.net/98.67.192.250)

we had a freeze a couple of weeks ago. an we have a well, now we have no water

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Replies:
Subject: Digging deep w/ augar, can I still send down a wellpoint?


Author:
Kaiser in SLO
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07:16:08 11/08/09 Sun
(adsl-66-122-72-117.dsl.snlo01.pacbell.net/66.122.72.117)

I'm determined to get water out of the ground for our landscaping needs around our home. Our municipal bill is staggering if I use as much water as needed to keep the grass green, and the on-line county website (SLO county in CA) reported "significant" groundwater throughout our area. I followed very carefully the instructions on the your website how to proceed with a wellpoint, but trying to push it down through our dense clay soil became a formidable task. So I kept at the auger and at 16’ broke through into the aquifer. I want to keep digging until about 23’ then put down the wellpoint on 2” pipe. Can I still use the wellpoint? Do I backfill the hole with pea gravel after it’s in place? Please leave some feedback.

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Replies:
Subject: winterizing a well


Author:
Don Robertson
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:56:56 12/19/09 Sat
(adsl-93-35-186.owb.bellsouth.net/98.93.35.186)

We have a Central Machinery well pump, Model 47906. It's a 1 HP, bladder type, shallow well pump. I've disconnected it and removed it from the wellhouse, but I'm not sure how to store it for the winter. Would it be safe to fill it with RV antifreeze and let it sit in my storage shed until spring? Also, how do I know when the bladder is empty? I can't find a drain plug. Thanks for the help.

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Replies:
Subject: water smells


Author:
Dick Reiser
[Edit]

Date Posted: 15:42:30 12/09/09 Wed
(71-217-222-229.cdrr.qwest.net/71.217.222.229)

Water from my jet pump stinks ( rotten eggs ) untill I get it pumped out of the psi tank & recycled with different well water. Then it smells fine. It is only on the cold water side. I would think it would have to be a sulfer problem with the well but am confused because I only smell it at the first part of the cycle. I did put some chlorine in the well. What do you think?

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Subject: Points sticking


Author:
Gavin
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07:12:48 12/08/09 Tue
(199.147.32.89.4k.usda.gov/199.147.32.89)

The points are sticking and the well will not come on. What can I do? Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: recommended HP for 100ft well


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 22:15:33 12/05/09 Sat
(adsl-99-130-175-71.dsl.ipltin.sbcglobal.net/99.130.175.71)

Hello, I am trying to buy a house with a double drop jet pump. In order for it to pass inspection it has to run for 20mins. with two faucets runnig without loosing pressure (in central IN). It made it about 15mins. before sucking air. The sellers said they replaced the 1/2hp pump set 20-40 psi, 20gal. bladder tank with a draw down around 6 and jet/check valve 6 years ago and had always had a problem with running out of water if someone flushed a tolit while the the shower or washer was running and the pump would run the entire time. A plumer buddy of the inspector said it sounded like a hole in the tube down in the well. Sellers, doing all the work, replaced all the tubing and made it worse. Then replace the jet/check valve assembly which is at the end of the tube with no pig tail. Things got a little better. With the system bleed off they checked the pressure in tank and filled to factory specs and bumped the cut in-off upto 30-55 and said it went 25mins. before sucking air. But the pump came on 2-3mins in to the trial run and ran the entire time and then some. I was out there today to see how thing were going when the prime cap sprung a leak (over tightend). We bleed the pressure off, checked cap and gasket, snugged cap, turned power on and no problems. The gauge jumped to about 45 and the pump ran for around 30mins before shutting off. We didn't bother it the remainder of the time we were there (hour) and checked it before we left and it was still setting on 55psi. We were both wondering if the 1/2hp motor is big enough for the 100ft well. The static level is about 25ft. I've also thought, from what research I've been doing, if it's possible that the well is not flowing as good as it did back in 58 when the house was built if not flowing the same. I know regulations and codes have change sence then. Neither of us know anything about wells. Just trying to fix it cheap. Thanks in advance for any help. SamE.

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Replies:
Subject: New Well Stopped?


Author:
Ron
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:19:25 12/04/09 Fri
(c-71-60-189-52.hsd1.pa.comcast.net/71.60.189.52)

We drilled a well 185 Ft deep. Hit small streams at 51 ft & 74 Ft. It was only producing 1 Gpm. The next day I had a water level at 60 Ft down or 125 Ft of water.

The driller didn't put in the case or pump for a week. By this time the water level was at 130 Ft or only 55 Ft of water in the well. We pumped it out and waited an hour and got about 10 - 15 gals. Originally I could litterally hear the water going in the well when I removed the cap without bending over and putting my ear to the well. Now I can barely hear a trickle.

Should he have cased the well and put the pump in immediately instead of waiting a week?

What happened? Is it possible the well sitting full and being new that a good stream had not been developed and now it found an alternate path other than my well?

It took about 3 hrs right after he drilled it to be able to hear the water running in the well. Will it come back?

The plan is to install a Pumptec and fill a cistern. I can live with 1 gpm for that but now I have almost "0". I had no contract but feel the driller dragging his feet had something to do with the wells perormance now.

Please, any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Replies:
Subject: need help


Author:
lou
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:40:32 12/01/09 Tue
(24-171-0-246.dhcp.stls.mo.charter.com/24.171.0.246)

I live in st. louis mo. much to old to put this pumpinp sys.in. Is there anyone you know that can be of help to me on my lake side prop.Can not afford 6000 dollars plus to have it done by a drilling co. Thank You Lou

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Replies:
Subject: artificial gravel-packed wells


Author:
Mark
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:30:33 11/17/09 Tue
(ip68-2-128-212.ph.ph.cox.net/68.2.128.212)

Hello

From your experience do you think this will work

I have an area on my land that either has springs or just a lot of water. Always Wet. Sometime flowing. Not sure if there is sand down below or just clay and dirt. There was an old dug well years ago that has since been decomissioned.

Again since I don't know if there is sand, then driving a well point might be a waste of time.

So what if I dug down say 20 x 5 feet wide (example) dropped in an 6" pvc well screen back fill the sides up half way with appropriate sand. If this area is clay or other than sand will the sand filter properly and provide water to the casing or will it be dirty water (not clear)

Have this been tried that you know of?

Thank You in advance

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Replies:
Subject: air in water lines water supply is deep well


Author:
david buehrig (happy(I have water) confused (what causes air))
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:01:53 11/20/09 Fri
(173-20-96-181.client.mchsi.com/173.20.96.181)

my deep well (subermursible pump @80 ft) will push air through the lines also the bladder tank does not appear to hold as much water as in the beginning. the system is 12 yrs old. the 4" casing is to 180' . it was drilled to 400'
water has been clean and clear,oderless and colorless since day one.I live in south walton co. in the NW FL panhandle. what could be my problem

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Replies:
Subject: Water Well in Australia 1880


Author:
Christine (absolutely exhausted and in dismay)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 00:59:31 11/15/09 Sun
(CPE-121-220-73-171.lnse2.win.bigpond.net.au/121.220.73.171)

Hello All,
Our house was built 1860, our water well I only just found out we had 3 weeks ago was built about 1880. It took me a whole day of digging up my front garden 9am to 5.30pm then SUCCESS I found it. I thought it would be about 3 foot diameter. The old lady next door told me it was in the rough vacinity, her great grandparents built this house. I knew she had a well in her garage, it is our bushfire season, we may not have mains water in the event of fire, with 3000 homes lost earlier this year, Im not taking any chances. After moving a giant tree fern and diggin out another stump we found the well is about 8feet diameter. We have dug down about 4-5 feet. There is a pipe in the well which apparantly has a filter on the end. Today out of desperation to have my water supply going so I can put up my sprinkler system on the outside of the house, I tried to clear the pipe by flushing and prodding to the bottom.
I then hooked up my swimming pool pump to see if I could get any water up, to no avail, I didnt really expect that to work as I understand I need a strong pump to get the water up. I feel confident the bottom of the well is about another 4 feet down, although the pipe seems to go about a foot further. The well is fully bricked with hand made bricks which slope inwards at the top to where the beehive top used to be, a dome made of bricks. The well was filled in with bricks, concrete, rubbish, soil and gravel. So it has been very hard work by hand to get as far as we have.
I am just a little confused about the pipe and how the well works.
Anyone who can explain to me further I would really appreciate it. A drivepoint, Im not really clear on that either, would our pipe have a drive point on it? is the water supposed to come up the pipe which stops about half way up the well wall to feed the well? Would the well have holes in the bottom between the bricks, from prodding the floor seems to be solid.
HELP, I DONT HAVE MUCH TIME, MAYBE JUST WEEKS TILL WE HAVE A CODE RED CATASTROPHIC DAY, WE HAVE HAD 38 DEGREES ALREADY AND ITS ONLY NOVEMBER.
I would be forever greatful to anyone who can give me the best quickest way to finish this project and get it operating. I had planned on buying a petrol powered firefighting pump to start with then an electric pump for if we just want to water the garden or whatever.
Advice on the pump would be good too.
We dont have much money, or I really would pay someone to do all this, IM A GIRL, with my teenagers helping me, we have worked so so hard.
Thanks in advance.
Christine.

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Replies:
Subject: replacing existing Craftsman Deep well convertable jet pump


Author:
Brendan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:35:26 11/12/09 Thu
(179.213.118.70.cfl.res.rr.com/70.118.213.179)

Hi , I have a well pump that is at least 10 years old, it has worked without problems and I believe it is a good product. But recently it began leaking around the clamp. I have been told that if I replace the O rings and seals that this should solve the problem. I am not a plumber and I would rather pay someone to do this but I cant find a well or pump person who will go anywhere near the project, they say I must bring the pump to them. Which brings me back to my Original question, If I want to simply replace the existing pump with a new one of the exact model, is this something a non- plumber like me can do, or should I just pay Sears the $200.00 plus to have them do the work. Can some one please give me instructions regarding replacing the whole pump. Or is it worth the money to avoid the hassle. I can handle the electrical part no problem. Thanks , any help would be greatly appreciated. Brendan- Orlando, FL

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Subject: 2" well


Author:
Tommy Buck
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08:48:07 11/10/09 Tue
(NoHost/69.171.164.246)

The water well help line showes two images of the jet pump setup useing a 2" pipe. One image is useing the packer system which has 1 pipe installed inside the 2" pipe. The other image shows a deep well jet with 2 pipes going inside the 2" pipe.Please tell me how they are doing this.what size or the pipes installed inside the 2" pipe.

Thank You Tommy Buck

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Replies:
Subject: Help trying to rejoin a Glavanized Pipe spear


Author:
Rob
[Edit]

Date Posted: 15:14:09 11/07/09 Sat
(124-169-176-21.dyn.iinet.net.au/124.169.176.21)

Hi Folks

I have an old Well liner that goes down approx 50 feet and at the bottom of that a 2 1/2 inch galvanized Spear going into the Sandy soil with an Old 3 Phase Pump to draw the Water. What has happened is this old spear has Rusted through at a Joint at ground level. Its a 2 1/2 in Galvanized pipe spear and has some build up inside the pipe meaning I have approx 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 in of internal cavity inside the pipe left.

I can also dig down around the pipe so have approx 12 inches of pipe I can access sticking up from the soil.

I have a couple of ideas regarding repair I would like advice on please what you think is best.

1 - Try to re-join the Pipe with a Rubber Coupling of some sort. I will need some sort of glue / binder to apply to the outside of the galv spear casing as it has Sand encrusted rust all over it so is not a smooth / clean surface

2 - Put a smaller PVC pipe down the centre of the existing spear. Not sure how far down I can run this but I can see the Water table only a few feet down the existing spear. Prob with this is it will need to be a smaller Pipe to go down the hole

My Question is what do you think would be the best method to take?

ie Try to rejoin the pipe? If so any ideas of Epoxy resins that would suit such a Join ie Rusted Sandy Metal to Rubber?

Or Put a smaller spear down the existing casing?

Thanks for your advice

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Replies:
Subject: Well vent


Author:
Lecdoc
[Edit]

Date Posted: 16:57:28 10/29/09 Thu
(dpc691914037.direcpc.com/69.19.14.37)

I am planning to install a 3/4 or 1hp submersible punp in 4" pvc casing. The well is partially astesian and will free flow (until the current drought). It is in the flood plane and I want to completely seal it and not use a typical two piece well seal. Is a vent required or will this cause problems?
Legdoc

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Replies:
Subject: shallow well pump


Author:
Bud Hart
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11:19:18 10/17/09 Sat
(rrcs-67-78-187-242.se.biz.rr.com/67.78.187.242)

I am trying to build an inexpensive shallow well 15-20' to cover a nursery 40x60'The well you have on the first page of your example is perfect for what I need. the question is the best pump to draw the water for the spritzer system.
Please Help

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Replies:
Subject: Driving near well site


Author:
Debra Cortez
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05:27:13 10/14/09 Wed
(c-98-208-167-162.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/98.208.167.162)

We are buying some property that has a well. The drive way curves past the well site and we want to go straight out to the road. Is there any reason you should not drive on the well site or near it?

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Replies:
Subject: when I pump with the hand pump the water goes dirty


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06:48:44 10/12/09 Mon
(mctnnbsa51w-142162121084.pppoe-dynamic.High-Speed.nb.bellaliant.net/142.162.121.84)

just paid to have a 100 ft well drilled at my cabin no electicity.Installed a submerg pump for 3500 watt generator then installed a deep well hand pump.pumped water for 2 days until water was clear and did a water test.sorry water is at 32 ft,60ft of 6 inch casing .my problem is water is clear when using submerg pump with generator but when I use hand pump the water turns dirty.I continue to use both pumps until water clears up because when hunting season come on I don't want to use generator .submerg pump is at 80ft and deep well hand pump is at 55 ft.My question is why does the well go dirty when I use hand pump

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Replies:
Subject: No comment


Author:
Brett
[Edit]

Date Posted: 16:44:00 09/20/09 Sun
(cpe-127-185.andycable.com/64.130.127.185)

Guess the question I posted on Monday 9/14/09 didn't have enough merit to get an answer.

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Replies:
Subject: well installation


Author:
a. staudt
[Edit]

Date Posted: 13:31:56 10/11/09 Sun
(ool-18bd33da.dyn.optonline.net/24.189.51.218)

I,m installing a 2'' dia. pvc well. Static water level is 14'. Total depth will be about 25''.Formation is sand and gravel. I want to use an air compressor instead of washing it down with water. Anyone have experience with this method? I have a 80 cfm compressor. Thanks
Andy

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Subject: Rehabilitating a little used dug water


Author:
Ralph Tulis
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:58:49 12/11/08 Thu
(24-177-252-31.dhcp.nwtn.ct.charter.com/24.177.252.31)

I have a rental property with a hand-laid stone lined dug well (about 3-4' diameter x 20' or so deep) that was the home I was raised in, and where my Dad lived until he died about 5 years ago. Since Dad's death, the well has hardly been used, until last Spring when I was able to rent the house. These tenents have left, leaving me with a well that I think got contaminated with dog excrement, based on the water test results and evidence found near the uphill side of the well. Iron and turbidity levels were high based upon CT potable water standards. The ground surface around the well shows evidence of either tunneling critters or rain water infiltrating the well. I have disinfected the well with 2 gallons of chlorine bleach, and will be taking new samples for testing next week.

Is there an economical way to rehabilitate a well like this and bring it back to the water quality level that I remember as a kid?

I expect to have to construct a concrete "seal" or collar at ground level around the well, extending out about 4' or so, to provide a better block to the infiltration of surface runoff. I will also replace the wooden "well house" cover with a gasketed & vented concrete cap. I would also expect that I'd have to find someone to suck out whatever "muck" has accumulated at the bottom of the well. I should note that the upper 3-4' of the stone lining had mortared joints, though the joints have opened up over time, hence my desire to construct the concrete collar.

Given these facts and and fact that ground water is relatively high in the area, are there methods to rehabilitate this well? This well is on a 14 acre site with no nearby (say within 750') homes or other probable sources of pollutants.

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Replies:
Subject: pressure tank won't hold pressure


Author:
Dawn Bray
[Edit]

Date Posted: 20:00:55 10/01/09 Thu
(cache03.vgs.untd.com/64.136.26.227)

our pump fills the pressure tank fine but as soon as it turn of the pressure rapidly decreases until the pump kicks on again. If we turn the water off to the house it stays fine but when we turn it back on up it looses pressure really fast. help!!!!

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Subject: loss of pressure.


Author:
charles lauterborn
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:50:42 09/16/09 Wed
(rrcs-24-39-108-146.nyc.biz.rr.com/24.39.108.146)

when pump is satisfied why does pressure on well side of check valve drop to zero. why does water suck back to well. my cousin who is a plumber put the gauge on other side of check valve to test the problem. thank you

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Replies:
Subject: 2" Sand Point


Author:
Gary
[Edit]

Date Posted: 19:50:33 09/18/09 Fri
(h75-100-105-31.waunwi.dsl.dynamic.tds.net/75.100.105.31)

I have a 2" sand point well in the woods with a hand pump attached. I wanted to attach a shallow well pump instead of the hand pump and attach a gernerator to the pump. How large of a generator would I need for a shallow well pump and how would I wire the pump so I could plug it into the generator ??

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Replies:
Subject: slow water flow from old shallow well


Author:
Gabe Torok
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05:08:21 09/19/09 Sat
(ool-44c43525.dyn.optonline.net/68.196.53.37)

Hi,

This is on behalf of a friend of mine who has a 15 year old driven shallow well, high water table and it takes now 8-9 minutes for the pump to draw water before it shots off. He thinks that perhaps the screen is clogged, preventing sufficient water flow. If he is right, is htere a method to rejuvenate this well? perhaps injecting high pressure air or something else?

Thanks,

Gabe

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Replies:
Subject: Sandpoint well


Author:
scott
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12:51:23 09/17/09 Thu
(ip-209-242-228-30.netwurx.net/209.242.228.30)

Hey to all, just ran across this site and thought i would weigh in with my problem. I have a few acres in Northern
Wisconsin with a camper on it. I have been hauling jugs of water for the past 4 years and would like to put a well in. My neighbors have put their own sand points in but I was wondering if there is a better way than the long hours they talk about to hand pound one in. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks to all!

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Subject: clean well of iron


Author:
Tom (wonderment)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:01:20 09/14/09 Mon
(h167.55.130.174.dynamic.ip.windstream.net/174.130.55.167)

I have a well that has alot of iron. I was advised that I could pressure pump water down into the well to stir it up and then pump the water and iron back out. Thus cleaning the well of the iron. I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this being performed or ever had it done?

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Replies:
Subject: drive point well


Author:
Brett
[Edit]

Date Posted: 16:40:36 09/14/09 Mon
(cpe-127-185.andycable.com/64.130.127.185)

I am thinking about putting down a drive point well to water livestock. There is no electricity close by so I quess it will have to be a hand pump of some kind. I know nothing at all about doing this. How do you know when you have driven the point far enough? Also any other advice you think would be helpful!

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Subject: Shallo jet well


Author:
Danno
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:57:12 09/07/09 Mon
(75-129-132-146.dhcp.fdul.wi.charter.com/75.129.132.146)

I have a shallow jet well. 1 1/4" and point driven down approx. 15 feet. Have had no problems with this well for many years. The lake I am on and the surrounding lakes have dopped numrous feet over the past few years. This is when the problems started. I am loosing the prime in the pump. I can get it reprimed and get the water up the pipe but it comes with lots of air. It also can not hold the prime. I have dropped a bob down the pipe and now am only in 18" of water. Have retightned all the pipes above ground to ensure no airleaks. Does the screen have to be completey submerged into water? Could the pipe be cracked below grade? What other causes could there be that would cause this problem????Please help with any advice you may have.

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Replies:
Subject: water well


Author:
roy (happy roy)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07:37:23 09/05/09 Sat
(adsl-70-241-16-152.dsl.hstntx.swbell.net/70.241.16.152)

Everything is above ground

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Replies:
Subject: Galvanized "T" on pipe going down in well has leak


Author:
Roy (Happy Roy)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 21:31:03 09/04/09 Fri
(adsl-70-241-16-152.dsl.hstntx.swbell.net/70.241.16.152)

I have a submerable pump approx 60' down in a 6' casing PVC.
The Tee that connects to the pipe going down into the well has developed a leak in the body of the fixture. Is there a way to hold the pipe in place or a tool to keep the pipe from dropping down the well when replaceing the tee?

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Replies:
Subject: Well problem


Author:
Irene
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:33:56 08/24/09 Mon
(nat1.jo-annstores.com/208.83.32.101)

Hi,

I have a well setup in a crawl space with the pump and then the holding tank and then the hot water tank. My husband has passed away so now it is just me. My pump would keep kicking on and I could see the pressure drop. Called the well guy and he stated it was the foot valve but the well is all underground. He installed a foot valve on the line coming into the house before the pump and all seems to be working great.

Talking to my neighbors they seem to think that this will not last and since winter is close I just need to know. The well man said it would last and work fine but I am just scared of being without water this winter since I am under treatment for cancer.

Thanks all

Irene

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Replies:
Subject: problem with new sand point well and pump installation


Author:
waterless
[Edit]

Date Posted: 17:10:40 08/18/09 Tue
(hlfxns0169w-142177155054.pppoe-dynamic.ns.aliant.net/142.177.155.54)

Perhaps someone can help us interpret the puzzle we created in the back acre while trying to put together a basic sand point well and pump for irrigating a greenhouse. Any advice would be very appreciated. We have checked over all the posts, and although similar to some, none are exactly like our little situation.

Here's the story:

We drove a 30" x 1-1/4" sand point and coupled on 1-1/4 galv pipe down almost 10' through rockless clay soil, which became increasingly sandier as we went.

As we had dug down earlier (trying to retrieve the first sand point that had snapped off at the threads), we at at least got to learn where the static water table is: it's at 5'.

So, the sandpoint is well below the static water table and has at least two feet of water above it.

When we flush water from the hose down the pipe full open, the pipe does not fill. We figure this means we are in a good spot below.

Now the pump: There is a run of 1=1/4 pipe of 8 ft from the water table to a check valve that I installed on the vertical just above the 1-1/4 galvanized tee with a boiler cock for back flushing. AFter the check valve, there is a 90' turn and then it reduces to 1" for the connection to the pump. The pump is a 1/2 hp two-pipe jet of questionable condition (we just got it used). I capped off the top line, making it a one-pipe.

We flushed out the sand point without problem.

When we turn the pump on, it just cycles and clicks. When we slowly open the discharge valve, it spits up a little water (very little) and then doesn't. It almost sounded a few times like it was thinking about running (it stopped clicking), but eventually it would just overheat and stop altogether. The pressure gauge never shows any increase in pressure. We changed the gauge, no change. We checked the pressure in the tank and although we couldn't get a reading, when depressed the valve lets air out.

We are at a loss. Any advice we be greatly appreciated.

thanks.

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Replies:
Subject: Pump losing prime


Author:
Garland Bryan (perplexed)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:20:13 08/08/09 Sat
(adsl-69-148-210-249.dsl.bumttx.sbcglobal.net/69.148.210.249)

I have a shallow well that is about 6 years old. Until this year I have not had any problems with the pump/well staying primed and suddenly I am haveing continuous problems. I have bought a new pump and also pulled the downline to make sure the check valve is working properly. Does anyone have any suggestions.

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Replies:
Subject: loosing water


Author:
mike (what to do?)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 21:15:55 08/08/09 Sat
(adsl-33-119-53.shv.bellsouth.net/67.33.119.53)

I DRILLED 70 FT.-DROPPED A 4 in. casing with a 10 ft. screen in the hole. lowered a 25 gpm submersible pump to the top of the screen attached to a 1.25 water pipe. water only comes out for about 15 seconds then shuts down. After a 3 minute wait I try again and the same results. I think my water table isn't quite high enough and can't keep the scereen full.
Any ideas.

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Replies:
Subject: Priming Problems On Sprinkler Pump


Author:
Jerry Hutcheson (Jerry Hutcheson)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 14:23:56 08/01/09 Sat
(adsl-074-170-038-197.sip.mco.bellsouth.net/74.170.38.197)

I have a 1 1/4" well down 35 feet. Water level is 15', it is in Central Florida. I have a 1 1/2 hp sprinkler pump with a 10' pvc well point. The pump produces a lot of water about 40 GPM at 35psi. I also have one of the No rust suction systems "sprinklerite" from home depot to control the extreme rust in this area.

It does not affect the performance of the sprinklers. My checkvalve is just in front of the pump, and I always have water.

However sometimes not all of the time it does not prime. It only takes about a quart of water to prime it and it is off and running.

My question is do you think it is a leak from the no rust system? Or do you think it is from the fittings, or checkvalve? I was very careful to ensure all connections were clean and carefully glued.

Where do you think I should start looking?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Jerry

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Replies:
Subject: Jetted Well


Author:
John
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:06:08 07/31/09 Fri
(107.68.188.72.cfl.res.rr.com/72.188.68.107)

I have been reading the forums and was hoping I could ask for a little help. I live in Central Florida and I have jetted down a shallow well, I put down a 2inch casing and dropped a 1 ½ inch point. I hit water at about 9 feet and went down to 19. I had mine and my neighbors hoses tee’d to the jet pipe and the well took everything I could give it, I pulled the casing and ran ~ 30 foot of 1 ½ PVC to the pump, I put the spring loaded check valve vertically a couple of feet before the pump. When I frst primed the pump and got suction I had a lot of water, then after the 2nd watering the water dropped off considerably. I back flushed the well with mine and the neighbors hoses and tried again with the same results so I pulled the well up about 4 feet (length of the point) and the results are the same. I checked the bladder tank and it’s pre charge, the check valve for proper operation and all the connections I can get too. Do You have any suggestions? As I am running out of idea’s. Thanks in advance for Your help - John

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Replies:
Subject: Ran sprinklers now no water


Author:
Tamra Raiche-Skibsted (UGH...)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02:32:38 07/23/09 Thu
(12-32-45-5.static.blackfoot.net/12.32.45.5)

I'm in trouble... first of all we have a well that according to the water right certificate is 275', static level of 212.50' with a casing diameter of 4". Although the paper does not tell me how many gpm's it puts out. bummer... it does say that we aren't allowed to exceed 35 gpm's or use up to 10 acre-feet of groundwater though..????

So this is my story, I forgot about the sprinklers after changing hoses around with new rain birds. Well, it wasn't hoses that were the problem really, it was one of the rain birds that isn't working, but I digress... one problem at a time. The water was on for about 4 1/2 hours, one hour being on one rain bird, 1/2 on another and the remaining amount of time on a sprinkler hose that I put extra holes into with a nail, I know..., so that it would water more of that corner of the lawn where the rain bird that wasn't working was supposed to water...

The day before, I had each of the four spots, (had to move one rain bird to the broken one's spot, this was why the sprinkler hose came into the picture) on for about 1 1/2 hours one at a time. My husband told me we'd run out of water if I watered them all (four) at the same time for 2 hours total so I made the adjustment. I'm not good with math but thought it would have been about the same amount of water in all, but I guess not.

So you'd think if I was over watering it, the lawn should be nice and green green green, but the stupid thing still attracts the grass hoppers in flocks. Especially over the septic tank where the ground is not as deep. We are on a hillside of rock and more rock so the ground tends to soak up and filter the water back down, somewhere, obviously not back into the well.

You can see why I'm in trouble now? No water anymore, or more like a trickle and I'm afraid to flush the toilets! I've tried turning the power off to the pump at the electrical panel in the house and waiting, not my strong point, for 30 secs or more, but no luck. Don't hear the pressure pump in the downstairs coming back on at all.

The only reason I know this much is because last year after 5 years of having the stupid pump on almost 24-7 at a gentle roar or loud hissing at times, we found that when (we think it was the phone company) filled in one of the ditches to cover the lines, they hit the galvanized pipe with the blue handled thingy that goes into the ground. We had it replaced sometime last fall before the snow hit and figured that we had gotten rid of our low summer water problem since it wasn't leaking into the ground at the pump/pipe connection anymore. 5 years of water loss... and the lower pasture was the only thing that stayed green all summer, Go figure...

This blue handle that sticks up from the pole that the water hoses are attached to is down, meaning off, and it's been about 5 hours going on six now and still no water pressure to speak of in the house. And might I add that I went outside to test the sprinklers and got barely a trickle as well? pretty blond of me huh?

All this to ask, how long does it take for a well our size to refill itself? and doesn't the pump automatically shut off when the water lever reaches below a certain amount so that it doesn't burn up? And should I leave the pump off at the electrical unit for a longer period of time for it to reset itself?

I'd be asking my husband these things but he's in Canada dropping and picking up a load. I'm usually ok by myself but lately it seems to be one drama after another. I'd rather not have to tell him about this one. It's not like he can rush home on his lunch hour and fix it... attempt at humor.

Please help me as I'm a big fan of help forums and participate when I know about things, which are usually about computer stuff or indoor plants.

Oh and by the way, every hose and connection to water is turned off inside and out. I double, triple checked. And we have a water softening system too. (not on either, well no sound coming from any of the pipes down there)

It's late and I'm pretty stressed out about all of this. I'm not a very good liar and I just know my husband is going to call tomorrow when he hits the border with cell service to ask how I'm doing... Thanks guys for saving me here with some wisdom and husbandly knowledge! I'm checking my email before my voice mail tomorrow, that's for sure!

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Replies:
Subject: pulsating well water pressure


Author:
Sheila (sad)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:39:56 07/03/09 Fri
(207-225-154-201.mpls.qwest.net/207.225.154.201)

I have a 425' deep well that is now 16 years old. Recentely, the water pressure has started pulsating. What does this mean?

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Replies:
Subject: Well and water softener


Author:
Michael
[Edit]

Date Posted: 20:17:48 07/22/09 Wed
(71-34-78-55.ptld.qwest.net/71.34.78.55)

A water softener is hooked up to my well. The softener was used at one time, but is no longer needed because no one lives on the property any longer.

Would my water pressure increase if this was disconnected?
I am using the well 99% for keeping grass green around the park their. The pressure is set to 40-60 right now, but the water pressure isn't that good and seems to have convulsions of air and water spurts. Anyway, what do you think about the softener?

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Subject: Dug well casing repair


Author:
Dana
[Edit]

Date Posted: 19:16:54 07/20/09 Mon
(c-76-28-12-144.hsd1.ct.comcast.net/76.28.12.144)

I have a dug well, about 15-20' depp, with the typical concrete casing. The concrete above the ground (both the casing as well as the cap) is crumbling, so there are growing holes in it. I noticed it last year but couldn't deal with it at the time, so I tied a plastic tarp over it to seal it off for awhile. Now it's worse and really needs to be repaired, especially as the water has taken on an odor. What are my options for repairing it? Any motion of the cap and pieces crumble off and fall into the well. The damage is all above the ground level, so far. One thought is to dig down a bit around the casing and repair it with concrete and rocks, giving an appearance of an old stone well, along with greater strength... but my free time is such that I may just need to hire a contractor to do it.

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Replies:
Subject: LOW RECOVERY RATE IN FINE SAND


Author:
Bob Grona (Suggestions!!!)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:21:22 07/14/09 Tue
(r74-192-182-217.htvlcmta01.hnvitx.tl.dh.suddenlink.net/74.192.182.217)

I am in Southeast Texas next to a sandy lake. When we were building, the 15 ft test hole for the foundation piles was all FINE sand and caved in on itself within a day. Years later I have gone back to this spot and water jetted a 4 inch PVC casing to 14 feet with a water level at 5 feet. I flushed a hole below the casing down to 20 feet where I ran into a white clay level which continues down to 30 feet where I gave up. I backed out, flushed the hole to clear water and filled the cavity and casing back up to 13 feet with pea gravel. Started pumping at 12 feet and all was fine at 1, 2 and 3 gpm with only a foot or so drop in water level. At 4 gpm lots of white sandy silt began to appear. At 5 gpm I sucked the well dry. Moved 20 feet but got the same results at 3 gpm. Any suggestion to increase recovery rate will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob Grona

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Replies:
Subject: new well that keeps going down in production


Author:
Libby Riger
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07:03:42 07/15/09 Wed
(99-196-132-185.cust.wildblue.net/99.196.132.185)

Hi,

We just drilled a well at 460' deep. We were sad to see that when we pumped it out at 12 hour intervals it was producing about a half gallon per minute. The driller set us up with a pumptec that pumps ever 2 hours. We have been running it now for about a week and each day it drops about 20 seconds a pump on average a day, which does amount to something over time. The driller is anxious to plumb it in saying it will never go dry. We are very concerned about this because it is not a stable pumping. It is running about 653 seconds now as we pump today. But, what will tomorrow bring and would you plumb this in to the house?? What do you suppose is happening? We drilled to about 100 ft. below a creek that runs mostly on run off water (Colorado)

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Replies:
Subject: well pumping sand


Author:
Nathaniel Jones Jr. (Tired and still tring)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:48:51 07/10/09 Fri
(c-24-129-47-12.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/24.129.47.12)

Hello I need help my well is now just pumping white course sand and stopping up my checkval every thing is working fine I opened up the pump and cleaned out the sand and when I tried to restart up the pump it started pumping sand again trying to get it to prime is it possiable that i can run a water hose down to free it or a handpump or try to slide another pipe in the caseing if the other casing has a hole in it.Please help Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: Jet Pump


Author:
Peter Karpe
[Edit]

Date Posted: 20:04:12 07/08/09 Wed
(208-110-238-234.usfamily.net/208.110.238.234)

Thank you for your willingness to answer my question.
I installed a shallow well 18'. 9' being in water and have a Jet pump of 1/2h.p. I started out this spring with 50#'s of pressure and was able to use 3 sprinklers at a time which gave me a radius of 36' each. It's July and I can only muster 2 sprinklers at 25#'s pressure which is reducing my out put and volume. Also noted that the pump does not build enough pressure to shut off the pressure valve at 40#'s. My pump is new. Any ideas will be most helpful. Thank You. Pete

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Replies:
Subject: wellpoint in clay


Author:
Jim Aldrich
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06:00:15 07/07/09 Tue
(99-51-155-233.lightspeed.livnmi.sbcglobal.net/99.51.155.233)

I dug sown 6 feet to my basement foundation, postholed another two feet and then drove a 11/4 wellpoint another 7 feet - 17 feet total. I have 10 feet of water in the pipe. When i hook up city water pressure, I get water flow out of the hole. When I hook up an air compressor at 90 psi, I get water and air out of the hole. But, when I hook up my pitcher pump to draw in the other direction, I only draw a deep suction with no water. Am I past the water line?

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Replies:
Subject: check valve on deep well pump


Author:
Stephanie Powell
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:34:02 07/06/09 Mon
(adsl-76-252-23-32.dsl.ipltin.sbcglobal.net/76.252.23.32)

What does a check valve do?

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Subject: well broken pvc


Author:
Rowland I Bush
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01:45:02 07/05/09 Sun
(pool-71-98-186-163.tampfl.dsl-w.verizon.net/71.98.186.163)

I was pulling up my jet well pipe and just as I got the well point to the top it broke off and fill back down into the well .

Question:How do I get this out of the well.

thanks.

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Replies:
Subject: wells


Author:
cynti (curious)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:07:46 06/28/09 Sun
(97-118-37-70.hlrn.qwest.net/97.118.37.70)

Does the government charge the land owner for having a water well?

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Replies:
Subject: Well in my basement


Author:
Matthew
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08:19:25 03/31/09 Tue
(ixrdemo.opm.gov/205.131.188.5)

I have a well in my basement and I was wondering if anyone knows how to fill this in. One problem is that my new well is about 25 ft. from this well and is only about 40' deeper than the one in the basement. I don't want this enormous concrete pipe in my basement for fear of children getting curious and falling in (it's covered but not hard to get open). Please any ideas?

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Replies:
Subject: Hand pump


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 23:51:50 06/20/09 Sat
(cache-mtc-ae09.proxy.aol.com/64.12.117.13)

I have a 500 foot drilled well with 120 feet of 6" steel casing surrounding 220 feet of 4" PVC casing housing a submersible which rests at 300 feet + with a 1" pipe. Static level is approx 160 feet. I am trying to install a hand pump alongside my existing electrical pump. Drop pipe for hand pump is 1 1/4", cylinder is 2". Things were going good until I dropped to 120 feet. I hit something that gives like rubber, but can't pass that point. I applied limited pressure, but was afraid to force.

Any knowledge or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

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Replies:
Subject: pressure and volume problem with well pump


Author:
Mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:51:42 06/28/09 Sun
(75-104-192-54.cust.wildblue.net/75.104.192.54)

We have a submersible pump (do not know HP) and one bladder tank. We recently installed a Culligan water softening system. We are attempting to provide water for 2 households but are having difficulty maintaining pressure and volume. Any suggestions?

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Replies:
Subject: Deep well in sand in Florida


Author:
Harry (help)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 16:43:33 06/21/09 Sun
(c-98-244-227-204.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/98.244.227.204)

If I have water between 17' and 19' (19' during the dry season) in sand, and I want to install a deep well jet pump with the two pipe system, how far down should the 4" casing be and how far down should the foot valve be?

Thanks

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Replies:
Subject: Hand Pump


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 00:57:38 06/22/09 Mon
(cache-mtc-ae09.proxy.aol.com/64.12.117.13)

Thanks for the great advice Vey. I think you nailed it on the arrestor. I wish I would have bought a gen rather than this pump!

With the $ investment already made in the pump....what do you think my risk is of attempting to push past the arrestor and finishing what I started???

Thanks again!

Dave

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Replies:
Subject: Which is better a 2 wire or 3 wire submersible pump?


Author:
CARLENE MILLS
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11:16:03 06/21/09 Sun
(ip72-199-203-175.sd.sd.cox.net/72.199.203.175)

Hi, I need to replace my submersible pump. I'm wondering which is better a 3 wire or a 2 wire pump. I have always used a 3 wire with the control box and all. But, I see that 2 wire pumps are much cheaper. Is there a down side to that?

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Replies:
Subject: Basic Information


Author:
Larry Johnson
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12:44:11 06/17/09 Wed
(adsl-69-209-124-66.dsl.klmzmi.ameritech.net/69.209.124.66)

I have installed a 1 1/4" well in my yard about two years ago and could never get it to work. I have about 21 1/2 feet of pipe in the ground. I have measured about 1 1/2 feet of water in the bottom just today. I would like to give this another try. I did purchase a new pump from my local farm supply store. Am I too deep for this pump! Since it's only 1 1/4" pipe, is it two small pipe for a deep well pump? How much water is needed in the pipe to make it work? I know, lots of questions. Any answers out there?

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Replies:
Subject: Point Cleaner


Author:
Jeffrey Stevens
[Edit]

Date Posted: 15:07:18 06/15/09 Mon
(dialup-4.159.50.81.Dial1.Chicago1.Level3.net/4.159.50.81)

My point is clogged and I am looking for a product called Johnsons Well Point Cleaner. Do you know where it can be found? Is it still on the market?

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Replies:
Subject: advice for working in a hand dug


Author:
David Whitesel
[Edit]

Date Posted: 13:31:20 06/09/09 Tue
(COX-DEDICATED-64-42-238-82.fuse.net/66.42.238.82)

I have an 18' deep hand dug well that is lined with stones. On the inside of the well there is a line that feeds water up into the house that goes through the side wall of the well and the other end of the pipe elbows down into the well and I believe there is a foot valve on the end of that pipe that needs to be replaced. To get this pipe loose, I am going to have to get into the well and loosen that pipe where it is connected at the elbow.

I have a ladder that is long enough to get me into the well to work, what advice can you give me about working inside that well? The pipe I have to get to is under water so I am thinking about pumping the water out to that connector so I am not working under water. What do you think?

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Replies:
Subject: Florida well challenges


Author:
Harry (wont give up)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06:17:21 06/14/09 Sun
(c-76-29-144-202.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/76.29.144.202)

I am having some real challenges with getting water out of the ground here in Orlando. Soil is sand and the water table is at 17'. I tried a shallow well with no success (tried two different shallow well pumps). Went to plan B and sunk a 4" sleeve 19' down. I currently have a 1Hp deep well jet pump with a two pipe system. The top of the 1 1/4" dia 5'long s/s well point is at 23' (6' below water). on top of the well point is a check valve, then 2' of PVC then the deep well device. Then the two pipes up from there. I have made sure the entire system if full of water and tried the priming process over and over. It will pump a little (maybe 1/2 gal) then slow to a trickle, pump a little more, slow until it finally stops.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Harry - Orlando

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Subject: low water pressure had new pump installed


Author:
paul
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:32:49 06/08/09 Mon
(29.91.203.68.cfl.res.rr.com/68.203.91.29)

hello. was wondering if anybody could help with this problem. 5 days ago, my pump quit working(submersible 1/2horse 2 wire). thru friends found a guy who works for his dad replacing pumps. he(not the father) pulled the old pump(truck crane)and in that process the old pump/motor broke @ the end of the pipe where its connected. he didnt act surprised and says that happens. he said best solution was to hammer it down further into the well then set the replacement a few feet above it. the well is 85 foot deep and the motor was set @45 feet. anyhow he did beat it down a few feet. he put in a gould used 1 horse (3 wire 03 model). then proceeds to reinstall all the 1" down pipe(galv)back down the well. once he arrived @ the top of the well he put the seal on ,a 1" m/a connects to the "joint" above the seal then procceeds as follows from right to left meaning from the right= my casing, to the left= my tank(bladder type is about 3 1/2 feet tall he said it was small). anyhow from the casing it goes to a 1"tee where my supply line to my home is located, next it goes into another 1"tee (back to back)this tee is pointing up with the pressure switch attached(we replaced the pressure switch and also added the controller for the 3 wire pump/motor.)from the end of the second tee it drops 6" to the tank. anyway bottom line is everything works but water pressure is funny..takes toilets longer to fill, washer, sinks. he did let it pump all the iron build up out or most i should say, but my question(finally) is, is the configuration of my house supply line location and pressure switch ok?he didnt put a tank fitting kit on so it basiclly runs from top of casing to tee(supply to house)
to another tee (pressure switch) then drops and deadends into the tank. so the pump pushes the water back thru the pressure switch to the supply to home then its only a few inches and its back down into the well it goes..does this configuration matter is this the reason the water pressure is lowish? im an electrician so i can assure you its not the pump or controller or switch or anything electrical. with that being said im dumb as a plum when it comes to wells.....ive tried to include everything i can remember in this but im sure i left something out..oh yeah there is no cycle stop valve or check valve above ground only the one on the motor,also the well casing is 4"...everything new except motor/pump...the whole set up looks very simple with the distance between the casing and tank being about 1 1/2' apart. was thinking i should put a tank fitting kit in and reconfigure set up....i dunno any advice is appreciated. also i understand that i got what i paid for but whats done is done.please post ur opinions!++++remembered this after i read the preview..i went up 1/2 a horse and also the configuration that i explained was very close to what was there before.well has been operational for 27 years(with crappy pressure) up to a few days ago. t/y

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Replies:
Subject: augered well w/ casing stopped at water table


Author:
Matthew
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:11:30 06/03/09 Wed
(adsl-241-59-85.sdf.bellsouth.net/74.241.59.85)

Hello,

I've been working on a well to build a compressorless geothermal cooling system for my house and I could use some advice. Here goes: Using a hand auger with extentions that a friend and I built, I've dug down to the water table (32'). Along the way, we had some problems with cave ins and I happened across some soon to be discarded pvc pipe (6 inch internal diameter and very heavy duty). We've used this as well casing with the bottom 10' cut to serve as well screen and it now lines the full 32'. However, I seem to be stuck. Every time I send the auger down and pull it out the suction at the bottom of the well pulls more sand and gravel up into the tube so that the net result is that I am no longer getting anywhere though I presume I'm creating a cavity around the bottom of the pipe. Additionally, the casing may be bound up some and doesn't seem to be moving any further down (this may be because the casing is bound or because there is no where for the casing to drop down into since the vaccum draws up more sand and gravel under and into it). Ideally, I'd like to get the casing and screen another 20' down so that I have alot of water column. I have a submersible deep well pump that needs a minimum of 4'' casing but if I can't get the well casing down any further I'm not sure what my best option is. Finding a way to get my casing and screen down further would be ideal and driving a 2'' well inside my 6'' casing is a second best option. Any advice on what and how to proceed would be helpful. By the way the soil is all loose sand and gravel where the gravel is mostly less than 1'' in diameter but occasionally larger. Help?

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Replies:
Subject: cleaning old pit-dug well


Author:
Bernie (Thirsty)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 21:22:15 06/02/09 Tue
(69-57-92-31.dsl.dynamic.nccray.com/69.57.92.31)

I built a cabin overlooking the juncture of three coulees (ravines) and have discovered at the foot of the hill (80 feet below us) there is an old hand-dug brick lined pit well about 15-18 feet deep with 7-10 feet of water in it. There is electrical power nearby as well as a stock tank, so I dropped a sump pump down to 20 inches below the top surface, and turned it on - day & night - for three months at 1100 gallons per hour, and it only dropped the level 6 inches. Now the problem: The bottom of the well has 3 feet (perhaps more) of black slimy muddy muck (stinks) that I would like to clear out. Ideally, a sewar sucking truck would work perfectly, but the site is inaccessible to trucks. What if I bought a "dirty water" pump that can handle solids up to 5 mm, and pumps at 1800 gph, and just re-cycled the water in the well to "stir it all up into a soup, then pump it all out into the nearby creek,(if I can get ahead of the in-flow rate), or until it runs clear, then drop in 3 or 4 wheelbarrows of crushed inch rock onto the bottom? Would this hopefully eliminate the black stinky slim? Any suggestions? Would it be counter-productive to just drop the wheelbarrows full of crushed rock onto the existing black muck? I was told by an old well driller to NOT use pea gravel, as it can bind up and shut off any water in-flow. I don't know if the in-flow is coming from the bottom or sides. Of course I would then have it purified and tested, and also would rely on an expensive filter if I were ever inclined to drink it (which right now I'm not).

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Subject: How to make a drill


Author:
B.a. (thoughtful)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 23:15:38 06/01/09 Mon
(pool-71-115-114-180.sangtx.dsl-w.verizon.net/71.115.114.180)

I have been wanting to drill my own water well but I need to do it cheap but effective.I have seen several videos where people are drilling them in there own backyard with homemade expansion chambers and drills and they show you how to make everything you need but the expansion chamber and drill.So I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how one could be made for cheap?

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Replies:
Subject: How big does the Sandpoint need to be for sprinkler


Author:
Jeannie S (HELP)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07:59:30 06/02/09 Tue
(NoHost/198.204.44.3)

I need help, I'm getting conflicting stories from Fleet Farm. I just put in a sandpoint 18 feet deep, I have 5 feet of water in the pipe. I used a 1 1/4" stainless sandpoint that Fleet Farm sells per instructions by one of the Fleet guys. Now I went to get a pump and another Fleet guy tells me I can't use that sandpoint to pump a sprinkler system of 40 heads and 8 zones. He said it is too small and I won't get enough water through that. It only pumps 7 1/2 gallons per minute and I can't use anything bigger than a 1/2 hp pump for that size pipe because it will suck it dry. Does anyone know, do I need to get a bigger pipe? The Fleet guy says they don't sell what I need and I need to go to an irrigation company and get a bigger Sandpoint pipe.

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Subject: Shallow well problems in Florida


Author:
Harry Armstrong (challenged)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 17:39:28 05/27/09 Wed
(c-76-29-144-202.hsd1.fl.comcast.net/76.29.144.202)

I sunk a shallow well here in Orlando Florida and am having problems getting water out of it. Let me describe my situation. I used a 5', 1 1/4" dia stainless steel well point designed to be driven into the ground. I used PVC pipe on top of the well point (washed down, not driven)My water level is at 19' below the surface. The top of the well point is at 27' below the surface (8' below water level). Right on top of the well point is a brass check valve. I can fill the vertical pipe with water due to the check valve in the bottom and obviously fill the pump before running. I have tried a Harbor Freight shallow well pump:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47906
and a 1Hp sprinkler pump from Lowes. I have not been able to get water out of either of them. I know I am priming well, I have water in the entire system from the well point to the pump.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Harry

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Replies:
Subject: Well clanking


Author:
M. Moldan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 20:49:49 05/27/09 Wed
(NoHost/76.164.5.141)


The pressure guage doesn't appear to move at all when water isn't running. When my sprinkler system is on the guage hits 40 and the pump turns on until it gets to approximately 70 and then turns off. It clanks 4 times when it shuts off.

Any idea what is wrong with my well?

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Replies:
Subject: No H2O


Author:
Mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 13:07:17 05/19/09 Tue
(pool-71-115-187-33.gdrpmi.dsl-w.verizon.net/71.115.187.33)

I have went through the process of sandsucking a 3" casing...got to very, very wet sand and sunk my 2" point into the 3" PVC and pulled the 3" up 4'! Got my pump hooked up and hard wired into my breaker box and turned her on....the h2o I put in the pump came right back up, but it took about 15 minutes for a bigger burst of H2O to come up and only ran for about 10sec and then nothing. This has happened 5 times after priming the pump. Any suggestions as to why it wont continue to pump up the H2O?

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Replies:
Subject: good advise needed


Author:
Richard Marsh (in waiting)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 17:41:45 05/17/09 Sun
(62.206.166.190.f.sta.codetel.net.do/190.166.206.62)

Dear friends.

I live in Republic Dominican , in the north coast , i have a house in the side of a mountain, the land is made up with a light colloured cream clay .
I have found a water vein near to my house , the nabour land is a little lower then my place , he is at a point where the water comes out of the land, so hes luckey he can tap into it, & it supplies him with all the water he needs .
Now above his land they constructed a road ,& all the time in line with his water suplie is part of the road is wet , i belive that when they scraped the area, with a bull dozer they cut the top part of the water vane, now for me to conect into this water, i have to go further up the mountain, about 80 mts the land is steep, so i recond that to be at the same hight of the road 8 to ten meters diffrence , thats if the water vain the leval or it might slope the same as the mountain , in that case the water would only be about 2 to3 mts below the surface .
My question is do i dig a well, & line it untill i get to the water , or if i use your system a drive a 2 or 3 inch pipe into the ground , if i do that what happens then i reach the water, & go further will it break the base of the water vane then nobody has water , because i see that everybody is talking about water tables but this is diffrent , Please pass some advise .

Look foreward to reciveing the info Richard Marsh/

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Replies:
Subject: jet pump keeps recycling


Author:
Rick Allen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11:01:19 05/17/09 Sun
(adsl-153-239-184.jax.bellsouth.net/70.153.239.184)

Jet pumps cycles all the time. My pressure switch is 20/40.
Once the pump hits cut-off, the guage keeps going down until it hits cut-in pressure. I have pulled the pipe out (40 ft), replaced foot valve, replaced pressure switch, and bladder tank. Problem continues.

I pulled the the pipe out twice to make sure the foot valve was put in properly, but I didn't check to see if there was a leak or crack in the pipe itself. Could this be my problem?

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Replies:
Subject: Cleaning the well?


Author:
Alandheer (curious)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09:19:14 05/17/09 Sun
(99-53-219-111.lightspeed.gdrpmi.sbcglobal.net/99.53.219.111)

ok...got the well point down to about 22 feet ( I have about 5 feet of water in the pipe ) and put the pitcher pump on top. Began by priming the pump and started pumping. Got muddy, silty water up as I pumped but I began building up pressure in the pipe and I had to actually hold the pump handle down or else it wanted to suck right back up because there was so much pressure built up in the pipe. At first I thought there was something wrong with the valves in the pitcher pump, but now I just assume that I need to take some time to surge out the well? I have found that I have drilled into a fine sand and that the pounding of the point has probably clogged up the drill point mesh. With that being clogged I am creating a vaccume in the pipe by pumping it with the pitcher pump. This is a reasonable assumption?
This is a very remote area with not other hose to surge the well (or electricity). Which method of surging might work out best for me in this sandy well? Simply churning it till it cleans the mesh point...should I use the check valve on the end of a smaller pipe to surge it to help pull the small particles out...or just churn it and clean it out? I could rent a gas powered compressor to push air down the well to clean the point out too I suppose.

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Replies:
Subject: Broken pipes when pounding well.


Author:
A. Landheer
[Edit]

Date Posted: 16:22:11 05/11/09 Mon
(99-53-219-111.lightspeed.gdrpmi.sbcglobal.net/99.53.219.111)

ok...here is the problem. Pounding a 1 1/4 well pipe and sand point. I need to get down to about 20'. After hitting water the FIRST time, I realized that the pipe had split at the threads that had not gone into the coupling. I pulled out 10' of pipe and chalked it up to learning. I started over and got to the same depth (no rocks...just nice sand) and the SAME thing happened. It seems strange to me that the threads of the pipe do not totally twist into the coupling...there is plenty of space. What I fear is happening is the threads are taking all of the beating inside of the coupling. Shouldn't the two pipes in the coupling meet togather in the middle to help "cushion" the blows and transferr the pounding down to the sand point? I screwed teh pipes as far as they would go into the couplings! The exposed threads outside of the coupling are the weak point. I am using a 50 pound post driver over the top of the pipe to drive the whole thing. I was not pouring water into the pipe to soften the sand, so I will do that; but otherwise...what the heck am I doing wrong? Lighten up on the pounding?

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Replies:
Subject: primitive well digging


Author:
micah landry (determined)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08:37:52 05/09/09 Sat
(99-195-4-133.dyn.centurytel.net/99.195.4.133)

I want to drill a water well like the settlers did, by hand. There are several methods I am finding out. I like the driven point system. How will I know when I have hit water?

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Replies:
Subject: Rookie well driller can't find water!


Author:
Kevin Williams
[Edit]

Date Posted: 18:45:10 05/08/09 Fri
(adsl-074-236-178-028.sip.shv.bellsouth.net/74.236.178.28)

I hope some of you can offer some advice - I think I may be in over my head. I live in central Louisiana. My neighbor and I went together and bought a portable well drilling rig which uses a 6 hp engine and 5' joints of 1" steel pipe along with a centrifical pump to drill wells at our homes. I have heard from some neighbors that the "good water" is deep - 200+ feet. So we embarked upon our project on a Thursday morning a couple of weeks ago with everything we needed to drill a 200' well. I have 200' of 4" casing and 10' of 4" PVC well screen. I drilled a 3" pilot hole with plans to ream it out to 6". The first day I drilled my pilot hole to 170' with relatively no problems. I found 15' of red dirt, and then fine, yellow sand until I hit 110'. Then I hit bluish gray clay. Friday I had all kinds of trouble with the mud pump, the deeper I got into the clay, the less circulation I had. Finally in the afternoon I rented a stronger pump. End of Friday, 210' still in the clay. On Saturday morning, I started drilling again having to go very slow to keep circulation and occasionally having to thin the drilling mud by wasting some and adding water. I would see a small amount of sand occasionally but still more clay. I ran out of pipe, determination, daylight and energy at 245' and still in the clay. I pulled all the pipe out of the hole, cleaned up, plugged the hole, and have been scratching my head ever since. I talked to a commercial well driller in my area who suggested I make a well in the sand that I found down to 110'. I am considering doing this, but I didn't notice anything that would suggest there was water in this sand. Of course I was mixing drilling mud into my water so maybe I sealed the walls? I would love to just stop at 100' but I'm not sure there is water there. Has anyone of you had a similar problem that can shed a bit of light on this? By the way, I found 2 wells within 5 miles of my house that are 300' deep (of course I find this out after). I don't think my small rig will go much deeper than 245'. The drill string is very heavy. Thanks for any advice you can give.

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Subject: how do i find out how deep my water table is " City hall ? " Maybe ?


Author:
mike honkoski
[Edit]

Date Posted: 13:07:33 05/07/09 Thu
(pool-71-109-74-147.lsanca.dsl-w.verizon.net/71.109.74.147)

I know that the city where i live " San Gabriel valley, ca. " has a ground water table but is there any way for me to find out how deep it is before i start. No one else on this street or anywhere else in the entire area hss the slightest idea. But i can see the san gabriel valley water department pump stations here and there around town, possibly i could ask one of them?

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Replies:
Subject: whats the next step


Author:
Jake
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10:29:47 05/02/09 Sat
(adsl-222-96-49.jan.bellsouth.net/68.222.96.49)

I have a different situation than most on this site. I live in south Mississippi and want to put in an irrigation well. I got a post hole digger and dug a hole in my front yard just to see what kind of soil was under there. I got three feet down and hit sand and water. What kind of well should I install? How do I know that I will have enough volume of water out of the well. I know there is water down there and it's not far, just don't know what the next step is. Thanks for your help.

Jake

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Replies:
Subject: Hand dug, brick-lined well full of dirt.


Author:
Darby Kane
[Edit]

Date Posted: 14:21:38 05/02/09 Sat
(h226.34.255.206.cable.lngv.cablelynx.com/206.255.34.226)

I live in East Texas in a 1930's house. I have a hand-dug, brick-lined well that some genius decided to throw yard clippings and dirt in 2 decades ago. This post is only about getting the dirt and muck out, the pump issues I will save for another day. So, the depth right now is 15 feet (the well is about 3' across). I can see water, but it's shallow. I want to know if anyone has a better idea (or has tried) to clean a well from the surface with a bucket or mud auger? The type that is turned by hand and pulled to the surface to clean it out. Yes, this is labor intensive, but I have time. I don't want to go down a ladder or pay someone to do it for safety/liability concerns. So, got any ideas about something that would do this job if not the hand auger? I am pretty sure it's just dirt down there, it's not like we are drilling a new well. The well must have been a producer at one time because it has a sizeable pump and tank. I just want to water the yard and flowers on the cheap.

Thank you in advance,

Darby Kane

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