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Subject: Old vs Older!


Author:
Rich Franco
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 28/ 09, 10:42am

Hello to all,
I'm going to be in the market for one of these coaches and really the question is: Do I get a sorta new coach, 90's or find an older coach and spend some time and money getting it back in shape? I'm in Orlando, Fl and assume that there are a few places to have the work done, if needed. My range would be $20,000 to $80,000 for this coach. And we might spend a year or so living in it.
Thanks,
Rich

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[> Subject: Re: Old vs Older!


Author:
Mr C.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 13/ 09, 5:49am

I would take my time and look carefully. It took me about a year to find a later 80's coach that was and still is in beautiful shape. These coaches are worth the investment. Have fun but don't rush.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Old vs Older!


Author:
Rich
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 14/ 09, 12:34pm

Mr. C,
Thanks for the info. Are there any really good years or any bad years I should be aware of? In your opinion, what the best year/motor/size to look for?
Rich

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Old vs Older!


Author:
Mr. C
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 15/ 09, 7:29am

In my searches I leaned toward 1985 or later. I did not like the FC (forward control/engine up front) models just as a personal preference. The rear pushers seem easier to work on and have more underneath storage. There was a guy in Florida selling an 86 that looked like it was in nice shape. Check Ebay, Craigs list and RV trader. Good luck.

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[> Subject: Re: Old vs Older!


Author:
happyday09 (happy)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 18/ 09, 11:44pm

Agree with Mr. C. -- go with a diesel pusher, mid-late '80s. You won't find a newer one that's also well maintained in your price range. Friend works with a dealer and reports lots of problems with the newer models. Our '88, previously one owner, is amazing!

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[> Subject: Re: Old vs Older!


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 20/ 09, 3:26pm

Hello,

Busses are very expensive to have worked on, if your looking for simular quality as new. And you can be nickel and dimed to death. If your willing to do much of the work yourself, not so bad. The newer the bus is, the greater the likelyhood that the recent owners still could afford to mainetane that bus...

The difference between a 1980, 1987, 1994 can be as if walking through a time machine. The wiring, for example, is much better thought out in my 1987, than my old 1980. The paint on my 1987 is much nicer than on my 1980, price a quality paint job... But some people really liked the rustic look of the 1980 (but one neighbor hated it!)

A FC will get better fuel economy than a pusher, and have less push and more noise up front. There is more storage in a pusher. But FC's can be smaller, which might be desirable.

This is a buyers market to be sure, more so last summer I suspect, even with the bad economy. Money talks, most "Buyers" are in fact dreamers. You could end up with a hell of a bus at the middle of your price range.

Regards.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Old vs Older!


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 28/ 09, 10:42am

I should also add that in my personal experience going from a 1980 FC to a 1987 PT is that service is more involved with the PT. Everything is MUCH larger on a PT from a regular maintenance standpoint(fluid and filters).

Keeping a 3208 serviced is not much different than a powerstroke or cummins on a pick-up truck, but a 92 series detroit is a substantually bigger beast. And is lagistically more involved, so far as adding and removing fluids.

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Subject: Battery System


Author:
Urnie Krueger
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 22/ 09, 10:47am

I have a 1983 FC35 and would like to be able to wire the batteries so one is used only to start and run and the others for the house power. It would be nice to get up in the morning and not have to jump start the unit.
I would appreciate it if anyone could send me a wiring diagram.

Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Battery System


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 25/ 09, 4:40am

One Battery is not going to start your 3208. If you are running your batteries down at night( I assume you are dry camping)you can start your generator to kick your batteries back up enough to start the engine.

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Subject: transmission


Author:
todd
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 8/ 09, 4:40am

my 1982 has been sitting awhile now trans wont shift out of first gear is there any valves or soleniods that get stuck thanks

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[> Subject: Re: transmission


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 20/ 09, 3:05pm

Hello,

Verify with a partner that the shifter does in fact move the shift lever on the transmission; this slipped on my FC 1980 at the transmission. Both levers have detents for the same number of selections; after you've played with it a bit it becomes fairly easy to tell if your in the correct notch or not.

Hopefully it is something as simple as that. Low fluid, contamination maybe, or perhaps something broke. Is this a problem that worsend over time or occured with a bang, or the bus sat for years. A service manual could be a good starting place.

Regards.

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Subject: Radiator or radiator core


Author:
happpyday09 (happy)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 18/ 09, 11:48pm

Any suggestions on where to find a radiator for an '88 Bird 8v92 Detroit pusher? An OEM part number would help. Thanks!

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Subject: Leaking Front Air Bag Leveling Valve


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 6/ 09, 10:28am

Hi all,

My 2 foot stack of manuals is missing the page that tells me what the front air leveling valve is. I know that their are two simular (same?)in the back, but the one up front is leaking badly. Can anyone tell me what part this should be? Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Don
1987 PT-40
Beaverton, Oreong

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[> Subject: Re: Leaking Front Air Bag Leveling Valve


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 19/ 09, 5:40am

Our 88 FC has two height or leveling valves in the rear and one up front, This part works for us and is probably the same,
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/products/product_detail.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1272546788.1237466239@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccadegkgheddfcfkmcgfmdfoldflm.0&oid=149814

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[> [> Subject: Re: Leaking Front Air Bag Leveling Valve


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 19/ 09, 5:44am

You may want to order a few PPV valves they leak around the housing, there are atleast two, or three or maybe four on your Bird.
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/products/product_detail.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1272546788.1237466239@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccadegkgheddfcfkmcgfmdfoldflm.0&oid=48389

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[> [> Subject: Re: Leaking Front Air Bag Leveling Valve


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 6/ 09, 10:28am

Bill,

Thanks for the help, I purchased 3. Took about 1-1/2 hours to replace the valve up front, messy, but straight forward enough. A shop could probably get in done in an hour including paperwork if you handed them the part. Level height stayed the same and the bus will sit level overnight now. $30 each on ebay.

Regards, Don

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Subject: air operated oil fill....


Author:
william (joyful &learning)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 09, 10:22am

does anyone know how the air powered oil fill system works and or what it is suppose to do? I can`t find anything in the books we have about it...

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[> Subject: Re: air operated oil fill....


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 3/ 09, 3:39pm

The bulk oil system uses air and oil. The oil is added to the reservoir by the propane tank. You dial the amount of quarts to add to the crankcase and it is supposed to deliver that amount. I had one on my FC and never used it, as I did not know if the previous owner did not keep it clean and I did not want to dump some nasty stuff in the engine. I always just looked at the dipstick and take the oil inside. Of course, the system was designed to keep oil spills off your carpet. My current PT does not have that.

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[> Subject: Re: air operated oil fill....


Author:
Rich D.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 09, 10:22am

On my 1990 PT40 the switch added air pressure to the oil tank allowing you to use the metered hand held nozzle to add oil to the engine oil fill. On my 1999 LXi43, the filler is plumbed to the engine oil fill. Simply (after activating the pressure switch) push the button to add engine oil.

If you are in doubt of what is in the oil reservoir, open it up when there is no air pressure and shine a bright light into it. You should see clean oil or, as Ernie says, don't use it.

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Subject: A/T switch


Author:
william (learning the bird one switch at a time)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 3/ 09, 7:39am

I`m working on this 1983 bird for my boss,he had just bought it,(needs alot of repairing).the operator manuel shows the dash lay out,and the switch on the upper r/h side of the dash says-(A/T),the manuel says this is the-A/T switch~~~~~DUHHH~~~,Maybe i`m just having a bad day,but does anyone know what this switch is to control. THANKS for any answers...

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[> Subject: Re: A/T switch


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 3/ 09, 4:24am

Anti-theft,
It opens the ignition circuit

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[> [> Subject: Re: A/T switch


Author:
william (happy & learning)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 3/ 09, 7:39am

THANKS Bill,I didnt think of that,now can you answer the one about the (air operated bulk oil system?) or do you know anyone who can?/ THANKS again!!

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Subject: need an engine compartment (view of one all together)


Author:
william clay (head ache,but hopeful)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 30/ 09, 5:40pm

HI all,Ive been working on this 1983 wanderlodge (3208 w/turbo).Its not mine,it was a basket case,wouldnt run etc,,.{got it running!!!!).I need a picture looking down on the engine to see where all the stuff mounts.It has the square type air cleaner(it was also missing) its coming along but to slow for me.... any photos would be a great help

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[> Subject: Re: need an engine compartment (view of one all together)


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 1/ 09, 7:56am

Lots of pictures at this site.

http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/40166049

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Subject: BB,bulk oiler, plumbing & purpose..??


Author:
william clay (getting to know the bird~~~new to bird camper)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 30/ 09, 4:57pm

I`ve been working on a 1983 wander lodge w/a 3208-turbo (getting it to run)-etc,, an does anyone know how the bulk oil is plumbed up and what is it`s purpose?? I think its mounted on the left side infront of the propane tank .. If any one can answer this, i`ll say I learned something today.. & I have some more questions...

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Subject: 1983 PT35


Author:
Ray Daugherty
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 25/ 09, 8:05pm

Hello. I recently purchased a 1983 PT35. The reason for my post is that no matter how hard I try, I cannot locate any info on a 35 ft. PT. All the info I come across indicates 36 and 40 ft. lengths. I am very happy with the coach, has a few minor problems, but we really enjoy it.

Thanks, Ray Daugherty

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[> Subject: Re: 1983 PT35


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 25/ 09, 2:35pm

Ray, If you look in the history section under model changes, it shows `83 PT's in 35' 38' and 40' but when you look at the pictures it shows a PT 36, I think that is one of those cases where the actual length was in between and sometimes it got called a 35' and sometimes a 36'. Maybe somebody else will jump in with more info. I have a FC 31 and it measures 30'10"
Dave,
Mesa AZ
1980 FC31 SB

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[> [> Subject: Re: 1983 PT35


Author:
Ray Daugherty (Ray Daugherty)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 25/ 09, 8:05pm

Thanks for the help Dave. I looked at that section and it helped out. I appreciate your response. Happy motoring!

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Subject: Vertical clearance


Author:
Earl (happy)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 15/ 09, 5:13am

Does anyone know the vertical clearance required for the Bluebird 1987 pusher and the 1987 forward control coaches?

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[> Subject: Re: Vertical clearance


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 18/ 09, 9:46am

A safe number would be 12 1/2 to 13 feet

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Subject: Battery Thoughts on an Old Bird


Author:
rtpn60
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 3/ 09, 8:02pm

I was looking at the limited room in my old 78FC35 for batteries. The original location is pretty good for the four 6v batteries in series-parallel, well vented easy access, and not a bad deep cycle "house" bank. But I want a seperate starting battery too. The area under the passenger side looks like a good place for an 8D starting battery and is located right next to the starter, and would still leave storage room for windshield washer fluid, and spare oils & anti-freeze.

The inverter mounted under the drivers couch would be a short run to the deep cycle batteries and keep my very expensive ProSine 2000 clean, dry, and safe. The only other bays I have is one under the kitchen with the old chargers, and one on each rear side of the bedroom. So my options are limited.

BUT, I do have some "extra" space between the holding tanks and front wheel on the drivers side and between the entry door and propane tank on the passengers side. Just needs an access door installed and I could expand my deep cycle bank if needed. OR I could use a couple of 12 volt starting batteries in the original 4x 6v bay under the drivers seat and put the 8D in the new location to free up the front passenger bay for the Prosine?

My only other variable is that i'm adding a Jacobs Retarder and it can draw up to 275 amps. On the school bus I'm removing this from it has a dedicated 8d battery and uses another 8d for starting with a 160 amp alternator. I'm wondering why they didn't just share the starter battery? Could be for longevity as maybe this large continous load can shorten the life of a starting battery? Could I run this from my house bank while in motion? Or should I also install another 8d in one of my new found spaces to copy the original school bus design? The small bay under the kitchen that housed the old chargers could be a dedicated batter bank for the retarder? Being mounted in the middle of the drive shafts the run wouldn't be too long.

Looking for other thoughts and opinions to see if I'm missing anything here? If 2 heads are better than one then this should be a real Picaso when completed!

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[> Subject: Re: Battery Thoughts on an Old Bird


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 6/ 09, 8:22am

Mike,
I don't know if you have a Redi-Line generator in the passenger side front compartment like I do, but I just read in the Redi-Line manual a few minutes ago that Batteries should NOT be mounted in the same compartment.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Battery Thoughts on an Old Bird


Author:
Michael
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 09, 10:45pm

No Dave I do not. They put those in after my 78 was built. The only thing in there now is a resevior for the windshield washer (that doesn't work) so I'm pondering what to do in that bay. The starter is about 12 inches from the bay so it seems a good place for a starting battery. Then use the normal battery spot for the house deep cycle batteries.

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[> Subject: Re: Battery Thoughts on an Old Bird


Author:
mike hohnstein
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 8/ 09, 7:35am

I have an 8D in the road side front, 4 6v AGMs and the Heart inverter/charger in the battery boiler bay and two Optima 12v on the gen set tray. They are all tied together going down the road, a battery combiner solinoid seperates the 8D when the ignition is off.
The original 'bird set up was only 4 6v and the retarder operated OK. Make sure you have lots of grounds, I cannot over emphisize the need for effective grounds, lots of them.
Last summer, I lost the ground path to the AGMs and the alternator went to 16 volts, not good at all. I had to unhook the alternator cable and run on the gen set to make it home. Turned out the faulty cable was @ the original battery box, wasn't easy to see. Cleaned up the connection and all was good. Of course this was after I replaced the two hundred dollar LeeceNeville voltage regulator.
Watch All the grounds my friend.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Battery Thoughts on an Old Bird


Author:
Michael
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 9/ 09, 7:39am

Thanx Mike. So you're not using your factory battery trays under the drivers seat or is that different on an '83? I'm thinking of the same arrangement but in diffenerent locations. Are you happy with the 4-6v battery setup for house? Do you boondock often?

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[> Subject: Re: Battery Thoughts on an Old Bird


Author:
Mitchell
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 3/ 09, 8:02pm

You should keep in mind that batteries often "leak" while being charged. If one battery is weaker than the others it may cause the alternator to over charge the others causing a boil over. Just be careful as to where you install them, consider where it "might" leak into. Just food for thought.........Bro ;}

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Subject: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Frank K
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 24/ 09, 12:07pm

Cost of ownership- routine repairs and maintenance
I have my sites set on a 1991 wanderlodge. I have reviewed all of the maintenance bills for the past ten years and I have "sticker shock".

It appears that routine maintenance has been about 3,000 per year, with an occasional bill running $5,000 and one even hitting $12,000.
Tune ups and with an oil change hit nearly $2,000. If something was wrong, start at $200 to write up the order.
If you are not at a Blue bird dealership, hit another 500 to $1000 to fabricate tools to work on the engine. It looks like a coach costs a minimum of $6,000 in repairs and maintenance. Factor in depreciation and maintenance, puts another $6,0000 on the number. More troublesome, the CAT engine manual promises a cheap rebuild, which is required at 100,000 miles for an engine with heavy use. Another 15,000 repair bill. The heat system, Primus, is no longer made and parts are not available. Another $5,000 to replace.

I cannot write a $12,000 check without a major cut into my standard of living, (like the current owner). Anyone want to share ownership cost for the 1987 to 1992 36 foot pushers?

Frank

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
PATRICIA SHANNON (HAPPY)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 18/ 08, 7:31am

I HAVE A 92 SP36 BLUE BIRD WANDERLODGE SINCE 1999 AND HAVE SPENT A FORTUNE ON THIS COACH BUT LOVE IT! HOWEVER, THERE HAS ONLY BEEN ONE DEATH IN A WANDERLODGE SINCE THEY STARTED BUILDING THEM IN 1963 WHILE ON THE ROAD. IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO BREAK INTO A WANDERLODGE THEY ARE BUILT SO GOOD SO AS A SINGLE WOMAN, I FEEL SO VERY SAFE IN BOTH RESPECTS PLUS MY MOTORHOME DRIVES LIKE ON A CLOUD.

MOST OF MY FRIENDS HAVE COACHES - A WIDE VARIETY AND EACH ONE OF THEM TAKE A TRIP AND UPON RETURN, PLACE IT IN THE SHOP. ALL OF MY MOTORHOMES FRIENDS TELL ME THAT IT COSTS A FORTUNE TO OWN A MOTORHOME REGARDLESS OF THE MAKE, MODEL AND YEAR SO WHO KNOWS?

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 28/ 08, 6:26pm

WOA, Frank, take a deep breath. First, any diesel shop has tools to work on either a Detroit Diesel, Cummings, or Cat engine. No fabrication required. You stated that the Cat engine has to be rebuilt with over 100k miles with heavy use. I hardly suspect that our coaches qualify for heavy use. Primus parts are available. Lets talk more about your perspective purchase. We can always talk about repairs- if needed, later. Tell us about the coach you are interested in.
Ernie- 83PT40-- 350,000 miles- no tools needed

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 3/ 08, 7:04am

Yep, That can happen.
Some times folks have too much $$$ and are afraid to get their hands dirty. (An opinion only).
At about $100 per hour and a few parts replaced , it will add up to about $1000 per day in a truck or RV repair center.
If you are handy with taking care of you own house, the RV part is just some occational plumbing, heating, electrical, If you can change your own oil, & all filters once per year this is a great saving. Have new tires put on every seven years. and you are good to go.
So a 15 year old BB and about 10 to $15K over the first three year period , and you will have lots of fun and a great dependable Motorhome.
Our Cat purrs like a Kitten at over 100,000 miles.

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Stephen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 3/ 08, 4:10pm

Primus parts are available

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Bruce
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 08, 3:01pm

Frank,

Six years ago, I knew very little about RVs and what it took to maintain them. Then I came across a '95 Safari Trek that a friend of mine was selling as part of an estate sale. His father had became terminally ill three years prior and the RV sat unused since. I agreed to help my friend get it ready to sell. With what little knowledge I had at the time, I educated myself. I ended up buying that RV. Today, it is running fantastically. All systems go!

With that in mind, another good friend of mine recently purchased a '79 33' Foward Control Wanderlodge that had been sitting in a state of rot for the past five years. Keep in mind that anything that sits, has a tendency to stay that way. As Newton's First Law states, objects at rest tend to remain at rest. With that in mind, we know that when getting into used RVs, the first couple of years can seem to drain the wallet like a money pit. Think boats. As they say, holes in the water into which one pours money.

That said, there's value in both knowledge and Wanderlodges. These are no cheap rigs. Folks who see them still ask questions about them. There is a certain "cool factor" in owning one. But owning one doesn't come without a certain cost of ownership. They do have to be maintained.

When I bought my Safari Trek, I knew very little about RVs. I work for a major airline so I know a thing or two about airplane systems and the physics behind those systems. RVs aren't really all that different than airplanes, believe it or not. While that made it somewhat easier for me to grasp the concepts of RV systems, anyone can learn them. I don't do diesel engine repair so that work gets farmed out at as Bill wrote, $100 an hour. My buddy who just bought the '79 33' FC recently dumped almost $5,000 in the engine side of the RV. But then there is still the house side to consider. We just replaced the refrigerator ourselves. While there was an expense, we saved a lot of money by knowing a thing or two about RVs. I feel that all owners of older, pre-owned RVs should know how the systems work and how to repair and maintain them. Great places to start are Woodall's RV Owner's Handbook by Gary "The RV Doctor" Bunzer and Trailer Life's RV Repair and Maintenance Manual by Bob Livingston. Both books are very handy and informative. To a point. If you want to know more, I suggest checking out what I did. I took a distance learning course on RV repair and maintenance. It is taught by Gary Bunzer. Check out:

http://www.northampton.edu/distancelearn/programs/rv_default.htm

for more information. I believe that the more you can do yourself on RVs, the more affordable and enjoyable having an RV becomes. Maintaining your RV yourself brings the whole RV lifestyle full circle. You not only get to enjoy your RV when things work, troubleshooting and correcting becomes a hobby itself. Think about how you can help your fellow RVers while on the road! I got into this thing full speed. If my airline job tanks, I have RV repair to fall back on.

If you decide to check out the distance learning course, write to Gary Bunzer and mention my name. Bruce McCoy. He knows who I am!

Anyway, Frank, you can either afford this rig or you can't. You'll have to decide that for yourself. I always like to tell people that there is an RV for every budget. Everything from the smallest pop-up camper trailer to the largest diesel pusher. Only you will know what you can afford to purchase, operate and maintain. I hope that you can snag this 'lodge you are looking at. Keep in mind though, it will need to be maintained.

Best of luck,
Bruce. (For Tom the owner,)
'79 33' FC

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Stephen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 19/ 08, 3:06pm

primus parts are still availble
an oil change should cost around 75.00 if you want to do the work yourself Cat engines will last longer than 100k miles if treated properly

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
DALE HALL
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 23/ 09, 8:40pm

Just purchased a 92 SP36. Like most used RV's it had a few bugs. I have done the best i can without a manual of the systems. Can anyone where i can find a manual of the systems or if i can possibly copy someones, its a 1992 SP36,with a Taytronics inverter. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Mr C
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 24/ 09, 12:07pm

I have had my 86 38' pusher for a year and because it was well cared for before I purchased it I have not had to spend much. I have had it serviced (oil/filter, air filter, lubed) and have spent less than $700. It runs well and I think if a person keeps up with it, like anything else, it should not cost huge amounts to keep it rolling down the road. This is the best RV I have ever had.

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Subject: monitor panel knob


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 12/ 09, 2:49pm

does anyone have # for wanderlodge parts or service the ones ive got just give a busy signal 24/7. also does anyone have those lock down knobs that hold the monitor panel down above front of driver on 1985 wanderlodge and what years did they use this style i would like to put back together original if not im open to sugestions thanks

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[> Subject: Re: monitor panel knob


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 11/ 09, 5:30pm

Mike,
Apparently you haven't heard the sad news.
Blue Bird is shut down.
There have been notices on this and other forums.
For your question, I don't have an answer for you but I'm sure if you ask in on the Wanderlodge Owners Group forum, (link on previous page) you WILL get an answer in a short time.
You will probably get an answer here too but things seem to happen faster on W.O.G. Many of us belong to both and to other forums too.
With the factory gone these forums are all we have to get information and help one another.
Dave

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[> [> Subject: Re: monitor panel knob


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 12/ 09, 2:38pm

Dave im so sorry for all to hear this my heart sunk while reading your replie, it seems that with all these gov bailouts and business incentives something could be done. ive always believed that if there is a will there is a way but maybe those involved just lost there will, it would be easy during trying times as these. there are more resources than just banks grants are given for these cases but one has to know where to go and how to write it also. im just a construction worker in the nuclear industry if ive learned nothing else is 1 can make a dif! but the true strength is in numbers!!!!!!

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[> [> Subject: Re: monitor panel knob


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 12/ 09, 2:48pm

i found the latch not shure of size will contact co the latch is a pawl style compression latch and below is the copied description of the product on ebay i will send link in next msg so just copy from lft to right and down and paste in address bar then enter hope this helps someone

SOUTHCO ADJUSTABLE COMPRESSION LATCH 16-10-311-14

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: monitor panel knob


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 12/ 09, 2:49pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SOUTHCO-ADJUSTABLE-COMPRESSION-LATCH-16-10-311-14_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ170178782697QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

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Subject: couch for bluebird


Author:
Betty Smith
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 6/ 09, 4:09pm

I have looked everywhere for a new couch for our 1988 motorhome and cannot find any sites for the kind of couch that was put in them. I find the Jacknife sofas, and possibly they fit. Does anyone know where I can look or would the cost be about the same to have it reupholstered. Thanks Betty

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[> Subject: Re: couch for bluebird


Author:
Bruce
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 8/ 09, 6:26pm

We just had our couch recovered. It is similar to the one you described. There are no couches on the market that will work if yopu have the heaters under the sofa. The entire couch can be disassembled and removed in pieces. If you send me your email I will send you some pictures of our sofa.

Bruce
birdshill123@yahoo.com

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Subject: fan motor bb98 w 500detriot


Author:
jack gallagher (desperate)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 09, 4:55pm

desperatly need fan motot for 1998 BB wander detroit 500hp engine..if u have one dont hesitate to call me 254 934 2525.bb parts not yet avaiable i tried. any sugesttions greatly appreciated

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[> Subject: Re: fan motor bb98 w 500detriot


Author:
Bob Lawrence
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 8/ 09, 3:21pm

Have you tried a school bus supply parts house?

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Subject: 87 BB 35'


Author:
Dan Sullivan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 6/ 09, 10:50am

Looking for A driver side windshield installed around Houston.

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Subject: Windshield Moter Question


Author:
Steve Purdy
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 26/ 09, 2:22pm

I have a 1994 BB BMC 37' The windshield moter on the drivers side has quit working. Are these units seperately fused? Are they connected by a rod to one moter that may of fell off or are they seperate moters? Is there a place to purchase them still or are they pretty much standard like school buses?
Thank you in advance

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Subject: Ft. Valley Closed


Author:
Tommy Rountree (Urgent)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 09, 4:21pm

All:

I know that rumors have abounded over the last several weeks concerning the demise of BB and Coachworks and from what I have read on this group and others that the "end" has arrived. There is a wealth of information in the possession of CCW that could be in danger of being lost forever. Those of us who have BB coaches are represented by three strong groups: Vintage Birds, Wanderlodge Owners Group and Wanderlodge Owners On-Line.
The members of these three groups represent hundreds of talented individuals from all walks of life. It seems to me that the time has arrived for everyone to come together and try to put together a unified group to attempt to acquire the data and make it available for all of us.
We may have only one chance to obtain and preserve the wealth of information that exists somewhere between Ft. Valley and Riverside.

What do you say, folks - that we collective start getting together a group to approach CCW's creditors, bankers, liquidators, etc. to try to preserve this information?

Three catastropic things could happen if we do nothing: 1) Some company will buy the BB name and assets (whatever they are) and produce an inferior product. 2) Somebody will obtain the data and profit from it at our collective expense. Or, 3) some liquidator will come in and destroy forever almost 40 years of knowledge that could be available for everyone to use for years to come.
__________________
Tommy
1994 WLWB 40
FMCA #31522

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[> Subject: Re: Ft. Valley Closed


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 09, 10:08am

The wanderlodgeforum.org has 1500+ members. I guess you could call that a significant number of owners and wannabees?

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[> [> Subject: Re: Ft. Valley Closed


Author:
tommy rountree
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 09, 4:21pm

Ernie I have posted now on all four groups - if there are any more out there, let me know.

Tommy in Alabama
1994 40' WLWB
FMCA # F31522

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Subject: slide seal for M380 Bird 2003 model


Author:
Jamie Erwin
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 11/ 09, 10:06am

does anyone know where I can purchase a seal for the galley slide on a 2003 Bluebird M380? or does anyone know who makes these seals, they are not HWH seals Thanks in advance.

Jamie Erwin

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[> Subject: Re: slide seal for M380 Bird 2003 model


Author:
wayne (driven)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 21/ 09, 6:04am

Hi Jamie, the air seals are supposed to be made by Bottoms & Associates and they are located in Georgia. They are still in business and the seals are available. Supposedly HWH also makes a seal to the same specs that could be used.
Jamie, how long have you had your M380 and how do you like it? I am looking at coachs and that model is one I was thinking about.
Wayne

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Subject: cat belt conversion


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 18/ 09, 1:59pm

1985 FC 3208 cat turbo, does someone make a serpentine belt conversion for our older cats, seems would be more reliable but maybe not cost worthy.appreciate any input. mike.

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Subject: water lines


Author:
mike bresnehen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 12/ 09, 9:10pm

hi everyone, i just want to thank ernie for the input the jacks work fine since topping off it still leaks but havent gotten under yet. anyways in trying to save a buck i never hooked up electric last winter and didnt drain system well weve got a leaker now ive got the accumulater that broke under the single bed drivers side and also broke the large filter under the kitchen sink i talked to bb last yr and they said would try and find and never called back and i havent been able to find on net either its about maybe 18 inches tall and has a 45 fiting at top and bottom. if anyone knows where to get these items i would appreciate i spliced it with water line i still have leaks but ill just hav to track down 1 at time mike(miami ok) nukelabor@yahoo.com cl #918-320-1464

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[> Subject: Re: water lines


Author:
Darrell Hicks (Southky)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 11/ 09, 11:33pm

Recently purchased 88 fc from Tenn Rv . I Believe quite possibly that unit was not winterized correctly because of two leaks already found . While filling with fuel a quite large amount of water came out from bottom of coach in the area you described, but because of the weather have not had a chance to pinpoint. In the next few days I hope I have a chance to examine where water came from. In any case, if you find out anything else about replacement, or a fix, it would be greatly appreciated to send me info, or maybe I could call you if ok. Thanks Darrell

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[> Subject: Re: water lines


Author:
Ernie
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 12/ 09, 5:25am

Most of these accumulators have been bypassed. mine does not work and do just fine without it. Ernie

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[> [> Subject: Re: water lines


Author:
mike bresnehen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 12/ 09, 9:10pm

thg accumulator has an air valve was its original purpose to pressurize lines to flush, thats all i can think of also if not need then it would be a good place to replace qith a good filter. do u have any suggestions as to a preferred filter. i believe there is the original manuals for my unit but i cant find them at this time the coach has been in dry dock so to speak last couple yrs as my dad had a return battle with cancer, he has just finished his final course of chemo and has done well plus hes 87 we all have been amazed. anyway im ready to try and get back on course i love this rig and am eager to get her back in use my next biggie is replace the dry rotted michelin on back its a shame cause they still have full tread but cracked bad. u haven't lived until you have a front tire blow out on you actually dissintegrate thank god for all those belts the rim never touched the ground. mike

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Subject: Water Heater Element


Author:
Dave Ward
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 9/ 09, 3:41pm

I need to replace the electric heating element in the water heater of my 1980 FC-31.
Nameplate says Raritan Engineering, Millville, N.J.
It is a 1250 watt element, looks fairly normal but is old style 4 bolt mounting rather than screw in element. Any help appreciated.
Dave
VB-1508
1980 FC-31

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[> Subject: Re: Water Heater Element


Author:
Michael
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 9/ 09, 8:33am

Hey Dave, so you found out the element was bad? I think Raritan Engineering is no more? I ended up replacing mine with a Kuuma Products 11 gallon water heater from Randy Dupree at www.dupreeproducts.com for about $242 plus $55 shipping to Mesa.

It's almost a direct replacement but due to mounting issues it interfers with my 50amp power receptacle. I'd really like to keep it in the recessed space but am considering raising the bed 1/2" so the water heater can be adjusted anywhere under the bed to accomodate easier plumbing.

I'll have the bus over at the house this Wed & Thur if you'd like to stop by, Camino & Santa Barbara.

Cheers,

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[> [> Subject: Re: Water Heater Element


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 9/ 09, 3:41pm

Mike,
I found a web site for Raritan and I can buy the element direct from them but am going to see if there is anyplace that has it locally before I order it.
I did get a reply from John Finn on the other board saying that Dupree products is a Raritan dealer.
I'll definitely try to come by while you have the coach at the house.
Dave

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Subject: leveling jacks


Author:
mike bresnehen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 09, 5:22pm

hi everyone, ive got a 1985 35fc rb, could someone advise me as to what type of oil is used in the jack system and how full is reservoir to be filled and also is there a rebuild kit for jacks as 1 is leaking but still works but all will not extend far before recycling im assuming because of low fluids but not shure.

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[> Subject: Re: leveling jacks


Author:
Ernie
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 09, 5:47am

Mike, transmission fluid is in your hydraulic system. Retract the jacks, and fill the tank. The tank does not have to be full. Is the jack or the actuator leaking? Ernie-83PT40 in Texas

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[> [> Subject: Re: leveling jacks


Author:
mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 09, 5:22pm

ernie, thanks for the reply in reference to the leak i havent isolated it other than its the drivers rear leaves puddle. i believe the cause was my fault as i drove bb for about 150 mile before noticing i had not turned of jack pump switch and levers were all in retract position if trans fluid what type should be used dexron 3 seems most common

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Subject: BMC 1994 Hydraulic jacks


Author:
Steve Purdy
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 09, 12:43pm

Couple of questions about a 1994 BMC Bluebird 37.5 ft. I just purchased the unit with 43,000 miles with a 8.3L turbocharged diesel. Unit had been sitting for a few years
1. ECU on the transmission is bad. Are there any used parts suppliers for these
2. Brakes will not build up pressure to unlock parking brake. Compressor is working. Any suggestions
3.Cannot get the hydraulic jacks to operate No power to control panel from what I can tell. Are they fused<
4, And lastly it has a combo washer/dryer splendid model and I can't figure out how to open the door.
Unit was inherated to the person I purchased it so he has no information of the unit. I have always wanted one and this was one way I could do the work and enjoy the benefits. I am mechanically inclines just need some guidance on where to go from here.
Thank You for your time,

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Subject: general


Author:
CARY BROOKS
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 5/ 09, 2:15pm

Hi guys, I'm a 1st time poster, but I've follow this site for a number of years. I'm in the market for a coach (3-5 years)& I've decided on a Bluebird. I even have my wife on board with the whole idea! But my questions are many. I have looked at the coaches for years and I'm pretty familar with years, models, powertrains etc. My budget has me in a mid to late 80's coach. Problem ONE is, I've never driven one. I grew up with a Newell (please don't hate me it was an awesome bus) in our family, and was bitten by the coach bug at a very early age. I'm very certain I can handle one; But would really like to drive one to know what I'm in for. Secondly, I would really like to hear some thoughts on what I should be looking for in a coach. Far beyond "Clean inside & out" and "only driven on Sundays to church and back". I mean questions like, Cat VS Detroit, 8V92 VS 6V92, Allison VS Zf trans. I undersatnd that the year and model will have a great deal to do with powertrain combo's.I've been thru "Buzzy's checklist" which is helpful. But are there any combo's that are an "Ideal" set up in the rigs? What I'm hoping to find is a PT40. Any thoughts would be a great help. I have lot's and lot's of questions; Hope it will be OK to pick everyone's thoughts.
I've noticed that none of these bad boys have spare tires.?
So..... Whattya do? I'm all over the tire maintenance thing; but you're in Hells Half Acre and you lose a tire.
Looking forward to hearing some thoughts Cary Brooks Valparaiso IN

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[> Subject: Re: general


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 2/ 09, 3:30pm

Cary, the first thing to look for in a perspective coach is mileage. If it has low miles and is 20 years old, that may be a problem. Second I would look at if there are any body fluids leaking on the ground. 6v's- which I have a PT40 is underpowered. I can live with that. 8v's are more powerful and can pull hills without downshifting. BMC's are nice, also but were built in the 90s.
AS for a blowout- get Coachnet roadside assistance. It is available from around $125+ a year. Money well spent. Ernie

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[> [> Subject: Re: general


Author:
CARY BROOKS
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 2/ 09, 4:41pm

Ernie, Thanks for the input. Not real sure what the BMC is. I've seen them for sale labled as Bluebirds but I noticed they are built on a Spartan chasis, and they don't look like a Wanderlodge. Were these a "budget coach" line? I've also noticed alot of Wanderlodges for sale that show rebuilt or replaced powerplants, but the total mileage on the coach in most cases is under 150K miles. It has me a bit suspicious; I've always heard that diesel engines were barely "broken-in" until 200k miles. Could it be a sign of neglect/abuse? Thanks in advance, Cary

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: general


Author:
Ernie
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 5/ 09, 2:15pm

The BMC's were introduced as the "affordable" way to own a Wanderlodge. They are built just as well, not as many features, but on a Spartan chassis. I would not hesitate a bit to own one of these.As to the powerplants. Yes, with more hours and days of just sitting, things deteriorate rather quickly.

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Subject: Power steering pump (How do you check fluid level)


Author:
Joseph Smith
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 9:05pm

I have a 1979 wanderlodge with 67000 miles on it and have never checked the power steering fluid, Does anyone know how and where to check it? It has the Cat.3208 turbo diesel.

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[> Subject: Re: Power steering pump (How do you check fluid level)


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 9:54am

Joe,
The PS reservoir is a can mounted above the engine in the doghouse. In my 1980 3208 NA it is just left of the latch at the back of the hood when opened. Looks like an oil filter can in a real old car before spin on filters. There is a hex head on the top that is the dip stick.
Dave
1980 FC 31
VB1508

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[> [> Subject: Re: Power steering pump (How do you check fluid level)


Author:
joseph
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 8:29pm

Thank you, It was sitting in front of me the whole time, I thought it was something to do with the oil.Thanks again..Joseph

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Power steering pump (How do you check fluid level)


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 9:05pm

Don't feel bad, I thought the same thing myself for quite awhile `til I started tracing lines.
Dave

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Subject: Rallys for 2009


Author:
Al Scudder (Lookin for a party)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 10:13am

Can anyboby email a list of rallys that are planned for Vintage Birds for 2009 Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Rallys for 2009


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 10:06am

Good idea Al, I'd like to see a list too. Maybe it could be posted on the website and/or included in the next newsletter.
Dave
1980 FC31
VB1508

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[> [> Subject: Re: Rallys for 2009


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 31/ 09, 10:13am

Give me an e-mail and I can send a picture.
Dave

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Subject: Mileage Question


Author:
Steve
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 30/ 09, 7:14pm

Can anyone tell me the aproximate mileage to expect from a Cummins 300 hp 8.3 liter turbo charged diesal 1994 37 ft Blubird Wanderlodge. It has an allison trans with 43.000 miles

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Subject: no heat at chassy


Author:
gene (good)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 30/ 09, 12:30pm

both valves at hot water tank and heater system have power when i switch from summer to winter at dash like there meant to work. how do know the valve to heat is opining. It is cold in the coach and system doesent
work. Is there a way you can turn on the valve for the coach heat manealy. Is there a way to check If the valves are good or are working. thanks gene

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[> Subject: Re: no heat at chassy


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 09, 5:32am

Gene, what year and type coach do you have? It would help to know that to help and troubleshoot your problem better. My 83PT40 has 4 valves and they must be all on. In some instances, the handle turns but the insides of the valve have remained in the closed position. Hope to heasr from you, Ernie

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[> [> Subject: Re: no heat at chassy


Author:
GENE
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 09, 7:00am

Ernie, The coach is a 82 FC33 all valves are open at the motor,valve at hot water tank is open and has power when switch is on summer.When I go to winter position I have power to chassis heat valve but heaters dont get hot.Both valves are in rear of coach under the bed.The to lines that feed the system are hot the return line is cold.Can you manually open the valve? how do they work? thanks gene

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: no heat at chassy


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 30/ 09, 6:53am

THere should be maybe two or more red handled gage valves
under the bus near the engine in the coolant lines.
These need to be open, If you have a Winter/Summer switch in the cockpit, there are several Sporlan valves ( electric solenoid valves) These valves are troublesome and need to be rebuilt (not a difficult job). The trick is to find them under the bus. One may be up front between the first chassis heater and the first gate valve , one in the rear near the last chassis heater and hot water tank plumbing

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: no heat at chassy


Author:
GENE
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 30/ 09, 9:09am

THANKS BILL,All gate valves are open I have located the sporlan valves. One up front two in back in the worst possible locations. The boys at the factory im sure chuckled while installing the valves. Thanks Gene

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[> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: no heat at chassy


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 30/ 09, 12:30pm

Gene:
Stephen Birtles has the Sporlan valve repair Kits.

888 668 4288
Or go to dupreeproducts.com
Stephen 77 fc 35

Also there is lots of info on this chassis heating issue at this web site
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/

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Subject: tire replacemt; balancing??


Author:
Mel Mellinger
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 09, 9:38am

I'm replacing 6 tires on my '85 PT36--4 drives and 2 tags are yr 2000 & 2004--I'm getting mixed information from tire folks re whether or not balancing is required for the drive and tags; anyone here with experience that can advise ?

Mel Mellinger

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[> Subject: Re: tire replacemt; balancing??


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 9/ 08, 5:18am

Most folks just use the balancing on their steer tires.

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[> Subject: Re: tire replacemt; balancing??


Author:
ed leamon
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 09, 9:38am

have had many tire changed on my 85 pt36 with bags added at the time the tires were put on every thing is smooooth the balance bags are cheap and used by many truckers good luck

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Subject: Bluebird Paint


Author:
Don Meyer (sanding,sanding,sanding!!!)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 25/ 09, 1:07pm

Hello fellow Bird owners,

I have a 1986 PT38. I am prepping it for some paint work. Does anyone know where the best place to buy original BB colors from. I have the Dupont numbers, but would like to buy from a supplier that is familiar with BB/Dupont paint codes.

Thanks,
Don Meyer

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Subject: 79 FC35 XV SB on board safe location


Author:
Dan Rowell
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 25/ 09, 6:36am

As a new BB owner,I have studied all of the past entries to this site. Can anyone tell me the location of the on-board safe if my 79 FC35 XV SB had this option? thanks Dan R

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[> Subject: Re: 79 FC35 XV SB on board safe location


Author:
keith carpenter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 14/ 09, 6:43pm

yes I had a 79 xv it is located on the left side of the entry steps as you enter open the door and it should be there

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> [> Subject: Re: 79 FC35 XV SB on board safe location


Author:
Dan Rowell
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 15/ 09, 10:36am

Keith, thanks for the info. I guess mine doesn't have that option. The only thing in that compartment on mine is the shore power switchbox. thanks again for the reply,Dan R

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: 79 FC35 XV SB on board safe location


Author:
bob maloney
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 25/ 09, 6:34am

the safe in my 79 was under the forward ding tabe seat

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[> [> Subject: Re: 79 FC35 XV SB on board safe location


Author:
bob maloney
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 25/ 09, 6:36am

DINING got hang over my speller is not working

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Subject: Insurance


Author:
Lionel Fram
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 22/ 09, 9:49am

I could use some ideas on insurance Please I am not full time but would like to be down the road Thank you

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Insurance


Author:
Tommy in Alabama (good choice)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 21/ 09, 3:19am

Lionel: My choice is Progressive which was recommended by my carrier USAA. Haven't had a claim and hope I don't but reasonably priced for the coverage.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Insurance


Author:
Bob Lawrence
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 21/ 09, 6:07pm

We use Foremost. Have the fulltimer rider. Cost $700 per year.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Insurance


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 22/ 09, 9:49am

There could be significant ranges in price based on location, State, County Etc.Then coverage limits and contents covered, Then payment plan discounts for full payment up-front.

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Subject: floor plan


Author:
Larry Orr
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 17/ 09, 12:16pm

Trying to find out the floor plan name for a 1986 35' FC 250 Cat Wanderlodge. It has the rear queen corner bed. I am trying to sell it and can't find the model number in NADA. 1-800-594-9043. Thank you.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: floor plan


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 18/ 09, 11:29am

Larry,
I wonder if that is what N.A.D.A. is calling the 34 1/2 in the 1986 Model? If it is I think what you have is the M-34 1/2-SB (Side Bath).
Other than that it is a mystery to me, the History Page on this Forum does show a 1986 FC-35-SB.

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Subject: Wanderlodge floor plan model name


Author:
Larry Orr
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 17/ 09, 10:48am

I am trying to sell a 1986 Wanderlodge and it is the front engine 250 Cat and 35'. Can you tell me what the floor plan number is called? The NADA does not have this model it seems. Thank you.

Larry Orr
We are a family owned business for over 40 years and our motto is we do whatever is right!
Through Our Integrity Attitude and Teamwork, We Deliver Premium Care. We don't just sell fun, We Guaranty it!
Guaranty RV Super Centers
93636 Hwy 99 So. Junction City, Oregon 97448
1-800-594-9043
Fax 541-998-4297
M-S 8-5 Sunday 10-5

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Subject: Wanderlodge repair


Author:
David lean
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 15/ 09, 7:02pm

Can anyone recommend a great mechanic in the Wisconsin area ?

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Wanderlodge repair


Author:
Mike Hohnstein
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 16/ 09, 6:10pm

Hello there. Mike Hohhnstein here, I may be able to help you in you Wanderlodge adventure. I have a 83 FC that I restored and have bought and sold a few FC's over the years.
I'm familiar with all the challenges.
Feel free to call @ 414 303 7079 or email mhohnstein@wi.rr.com or web site; AutoTransDesign.com
I'm in Germantown, northwest of Milwaukee.

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Subject: Aquired 1967 WanderLodge


Author:
jasperalden
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 27/ 08, 12:34am

Hello people, I finally got my hands on this Blue Bird, it's a 1967 with a retrofitted 6V53 Detroit up front. It needs some cosmetic attention. I would like to obtain info on where to find model numbers and stuff like that. Your help will be extremely helpful. I plan for this "ride" to be my retirement home, I'm gonna see America and go to Alaska.

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[> Subject: Re: Aquired 1967 WanderLodge


Author:
gregory (Parts)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 30/ 08, 3:26pm

i have a restored 1968 bird, I am looking for windshield wiper motors have any info you may share? If you have any questions for me please email i will try to advise.
thanks and good luck with the restoration

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Subject: paint codes for '82 brown paint scheme


Author:
John C
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 28/ 08, 10:37pm

Does anyone know the paint codes for the brown paint scheme on a 1982 Lodge? The colors are the root beer metallic brown, cream and some striping colors.

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[> Subject: Re: paint codes for '82 brown paint scheme


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 30/ 08, 5:34am

Lee Condosta knows about paint. His email is lcondosta@hotmail.com

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Subject: Engine Swap


Author:
Rob Robinson
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 17/ 08, 7:26am

Randy Dupree and his buddy Woody have taken on a major project. Two days ago they began an engine and tranny transplant on Woody's 1990 Bluebird Wanderlodge SP. The original 300hp Turbo CAT 3208 and ZF tranny are being swapped out for a 300hp Turbo Cummins 8.3 and 6 speed Allison trannny. Work began at 1030am Monday and by 3pm they had the engine and tranny out. It would have been out earlier if they hadn't stopped to argue how best to do it. This project will require serious fabrication including new designs for exhaust, motor mounts, radiator mounting etc to accomodate an engine that is 8 inches longer than the original. Pictures and write-up are available now at

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2063

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Subject: ignition


Author:
Richard Carter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 14/ 08, 10:30am

Hi all, Rich here from decatur, Il., have a 89WB40' with an ignition problem, don't have the drawing, but looking for the rear igntion box, thought problem was the ignition , that checked out OK, any ideas welcome.

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[> Subject: Re: ignition


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 10/ 08, 10:55am

More info needed. Does it turn over, is it making any smoke. What is the color of the smoke, mostly black, mostly white? Have you lost your prime, this time of year, leaves can get sucked into the air filter and you'll crap when you see the black smoke and have only about 75 hp of power. Could be your engine cpu too. Keep it simple first. Does it turn over, ug. No smoke no fuel, ug. Lots of smoke no run, can it breath, ug. Has your emergency shutdown device been activated, how obout your A/T anti theft switch on the dash, did a kid flip it. Still suspect the rear ignition switch, a know problem, but only if it turnes over w/o smoke, or runs only if held in the start position. Once you've gone over these basics, then move on to your engine CPU, gulp!

Don

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[> [> Subject: Re: ignition


Author:
Richard Carter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 13/ 08, 10:09am

I can start the coach from the back ignition, not the front, going to replace the switch in front--Pollak #31-158-100, nolonger available, can it be one of the continuous solianod going to the starter, from the back ignition everything sounds good

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: ignition


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 14/ 08, 10:30am

The problem may be in that rear switch box. Mine would not start from front and come to find out there was something wrong with back box. You might take that apart and see what might be wrong.

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Subject: Generator


Author:
dctrcarter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 5/ 08, 7:09pm

Just replaced 12.5Kvw in my 1989 WLWB, it wasn't bad to do, just like the book say, any way tryed to start an some rely has kicked in cause it will not start from any of the three generator starter switch. Motoer stared the first time I try it, but shut of real quite, Switch would not work after that first time, thats why I think I've burned out a solanald or kicked rely out. Anyone with ideal on how to get this thing running again.

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[> Subject: Re: Generator


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 10/ 08, 10:31am

If it runs while you hold the run switch in the start position, it is likely the voltage regulator on the gen head. When you start the genset the relays are activated with battery power, when you release the switch the gen head dc power now holds the relays. If all is well...

The round barrel connectors with many pins can get corroded (use deoxit), sometimes when you couple those connectors, some of the pins are pushed out of the way and end up being real iffy.

Don

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Subject: appliances are dying


Author:
Phil Rogers
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 10/ 08, 10:23am

I have an 88 FC side bath model. Recently something has killed the bedroom tv, the micro/conv oven, and a vcr/dvd player that was hooked to the front tv. Can not find anything else wrong in the coach. Anyone have any ideas as to what could have caused these things to all go down in the same time frame?

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[> Subject: Re: appliances are dying


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 23/ 08, 10:59am

I would check to see if they are all on the same leg, check the front over head Volt meters, Amp meters, and I would then guess it was the main circuit breaker.
Or is the problem on both shore power and generator power???

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[> Subject: Re: appliances are dying


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 10/ 08, 10:23am

Can't say about the microwave but on my bus all the tv/vcr stuff and icemaker can be ran by the inverter too. That means there is a voltage sinsing relay somewhere. If that is not working, or power is fed through an inverter, some do that, and its' breaker has popped that would explain some of your woes. If you have a larger inverter, the micro would likely be on it too.

Don

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Subject: 81 FC wiring diagram


Author:
Bob
[Edit]

Date Posted: 12/ 8/ 08, 9:05pm

I just bought a 1981 33' FC, I was wondering where or if I can get a wiring diagram or any of the other documentation that orginally came with it. I have the book on the generator, and the chassie operators manual. I have called Blue Bird Coach Works a couple of times and left messages with thier technical services, nobody has returned my calls

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Subject: height of average Blue bird


Author:
Greg Smith
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 25/ 08, 1:45pm

Trying to find the average height of the Blue Bird 35' coach--I don't currently have a Blue Bird but hope to in the future and am planning a car port for my existing motor home and want to make sure it is high enough for a future Blue Bird

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[> Subject: Re: height of average Blue bird


Author:
Bob Lawrence
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 25/ 08, 4:51pm

Our 84 PT36 is 12ft 3 in. with the roof air.
14 foot door will clear the antenna's also.

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Subject: fresh water pump


Author:
Brian Roth
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 21/ 08, 12:32pm

My fresh water pump in my 1981 35 ft BBWL isn't working and I can't find it. I was told it is under the bed. I am probable looking right at it but can't find it. Can anyone help?

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[> Subject: Re: fresh water pump


Author:
Ernie EKberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 21/ 08, 1:51pm

Brian, your water pump is under the kitchen sink behind the pegboard.

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Subject: Insulating a bird


Author:
Lou
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 20/ 08, 5:47am

I would like to know if their is a way to insulate a 73 blue bird or do you just have to live with out it.I was thinking maybe if I could get the plans I could raise the roof 24inches and widen the sides 12inches any input or advice would be appreciated thank you.

Lou

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[> Subject: Re: Insulating a bird


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 17/ 08, 9:41pm

I think those dimensions would be prohibited in just about every state. There is a reason the Wanderlodge WB (wide body) is only 8'6" wide, that is the maximum width by federal law, height is regulated by states but highest I know of is 14" and most are 13'6".

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[> [> Subject: Re: Insulating a bird


Author:
Lou
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 18/ 08, 12:35pm

Dave thank you for your response to my inquiries I measured a couple of semi tractor trailers and found that 8'6" is the norm so this now gives me 3" on each side of the bus the roof stands at 10.5' so I should have plenty of room to go up I am wondering what would be the best insulation to use and were I could obtain constriction plans of this bus.

Lou

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Insulating a bird


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 20/ 08, 5:47am

I believe that sprayed in foam is the insulation for your coach. Now, the generator and dog house can have insulation added

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Subject: Generator


Author:
dctrcarter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 10/ 08, 4:41pm

Update on the generator, found fuse blown in control panel, 10a- replaced an switches are working again at all three spots, engine is not turning over, getting a clinking noise from engine, replaced the solenold behind the fuel solenold, book don't say what solenold, some call it a continueous solenold. Still looking for help

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[> Subject: Re: Generator


Author:
Michael Davis (No such thing as bad weather; ...just bad gear.)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 08, 5:32pm

I am looking for parts dealers for Kohler generators, ...the older ones; Model 7.5C61 that is power plant for a 1981 31' FC.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Generator


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 28/ 08, 10:04am

Here you go Michael, Engines Service, Inc. located in Milwaukee... ask for Phil...414 353 7340

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Generator


Author:
mike hohnstein
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 10/ 08, 4:41pm

And you may want to tread softly over there. Kinda pricey.
On the other hand, little chance of a smokin' deal on Kohler parts. There are times a new Onan makes sense.
M Hohnstein
Germantown, WI
83FC35rb

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Subject: Suspension dump


Author:
Joe
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 3/ 08, 6:07am

I just purchased a 1982 33 fc. I dumped the suspension last night and this morning it wouldnt come back up. All other air systems seem to be ok, the air pressure came up on the guages but not the bags. Anyone know what I have done wrong??

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[> Subject: Re: Suspension dump


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 4/ 08, 6:17am

You've done nothing wrong, probably a stuck or bad valve. Sometimes if you shut the engine off and dump the air and retry to air the bags up it will work. It's been a while since anyone has responded to your question so maybe you have figured it out by now.If you did fix the problem,let us know what you ended up doing,if you don't mind.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Suspension dump


Author:
Henry Pozzuoli
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 6/ 08, 7:31pm

Hi

Mine gives me a hard time now and then when the step dose not retract all the way. I push it in or sometimes work the switch on the dash. Once the step is in -- no air leak. The auxillary tanks will fill.

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[> Subject: Re: Suspension dump


Author:
Dave (Still Lookin)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 15/ 08, 6:23pm

This may seem too simple but while looking at a BB this past weekend as a potential buyer, I learned the system will not air up with the dump valve still in the dump position. Like I said, sounds too simple but if you are not familiar with the systems...

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[> [> Subject: Re: Suspension dump


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 16/ 08, 9:18am

Dave, you're right, I didn't even think of that, maybe Joe doen't know that you have to flip a switch to bring the airbags up. We may never know though, seems like Joe posted a question and then has decided never to return

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[> [> Subject: Re: Suspension dump


Author:
jim riordan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 1/ 08, 8:49am

You are incorrect about this being a normal condition. With engine running air tanks should air up to operating pressure.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Suspension dump


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 3/ 08, 6:07am

Jim, I'm not wrong, I said you need to flip a switch to have the AIRBAGS air up ( which was Joes problem ), not the AIR TANKS. I know the airtank starts to air up when you start the engine.

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Subject: Manual


Author:
dctrcarter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 12/ 08, 8:30pm

Looking for a 1989 Wanderlodge Silver Ed. Replaced my side Landing lightd, #4415, 12v, can I get the hole side light some where? The insides are corroded, the metal ring is shoot, plastic holding buld in are broken, I believe I'm going to need alot of parts.

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[> Subject: Re: owners Manual 1979


Author:
Patrick
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 21/ 08, 5:24pm

Anyone have a manual for a 1979?

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Subject: Where is the VIN number


Author:
Bob Neary
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 17/ 08, 5:22pm

I just sold my 1977 33.5' FC BlueBird Wanderlodge. The VIN on my title is: 09433437005. The fellow I sold to is going to license it in Ohio and he cannot find the VIN anywhere on the vehicle. I have had the vehicle licensed in Oregon, Montana, Utah and it came from Washington and has always had the same VIN on the titles. WHERE IS IT? PLEASE!!!!!!!! Bob Neary (435-668-3456)

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[> Subject: Re: Where is the VIN number


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 4/ 08, 2:30pm

There should be a plate on the dash just above the engine cover and left of center. Behind the table that sits on top of the engine cover.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Where is the VIN number


Author:
Bob Neary
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 4/ 08, 2:46pm

Thanks for the reply. The plate you are talking about has the Bluebird numbers but not the VIN. There are two plates where you suggest but neither is the VIN. There is a plate on the windshield post passenger side but it also is just the Bluebird number. Bob

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Where is the VIN number


Author:
Dave Ward
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 17/ 08, 5:22pm

Bob,
I don't know if you ever got an answer to your question or not but I have one now, at least for a 1980. I just bought a 1980 FC31 and found the Vin. on a plate above the left windshield. It only has the last 6 digits of what is on the title but that was enough to satisfy the DMV inspector in AZ where I live.

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Subject: To buy or not to buy


Author:
James Mantonya
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 8/ 08, 9:00am

Ive talked with a few of you b4 regarding buying a rv to use while on furlough for a year. with the economy as it is now, is it a good idea?
James

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[> Subject: Re: To buy or not to buy


Author:
ernie ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 9/ 08, 5:23am

If you have the resources to purchase and maintain the coach, go for it-- life is very short

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Subject: 6-92 starter


Author:
Robert
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 25/ 08, 7:28pm

I have a 83 PT35 with a 6-92 DD. I am having a problem with the starter and am trying to remove it. I have the bottom two bolts out but I can't feel or see the third bolt which I assume is between the solenoid and the block. Any ideas on how to access this last bolt?

Thanks
Roert
83PT35

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[> Subject: Re: 6-92 starter


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 27/ 08, 9:52pm

Go to a good auto parts store (N.A.P.A.) or a good mechanics tool supplier and ask for a "Starter Wrench". It is a box end wrench made in a "C" shape to reach around the starter.

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Subject: 1993 Blue Bird


Author:
Bob
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 25/ 08, 6:45pm

I would like to know if the 1993 Blue Birds had an option on cabinets to be white or off white, or do they all have white cabinets?

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Subject: Wanderlust *DR004877*


Author:
Lydia
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 22/ 08, 7:30am

Hoping someone may be able to give me more info on motorhome i recently acquired, unfortunately it was involved in a fire-front drivers area is totaled and the only indentifying mark i have been able to find is a metal tag on the first step on the left side - Wanderlust *DR004877*. I have searched all over the internet, and called Wanderlodge several times and to no avail. Can anyone give me any information? It a gas motor Flat-head V-8. Thank you

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[> Subject: Re: Wanderlust *DR004877*


Author:
Dave
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 22/ 08, 6:01pm

Doesn't sound like a Wanderlodge as any gas engine would have been overhead valve. Have you talked to any mechanic who might be able to identify the engine and approximate age. I think the latest flathead V-8 would be a 1953 Ford.
Maybe if you coulod post a picture or 2 somebody might have an idea.

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Subject: street water intake


Author:
Roland Condon
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 21/ 08, 10:44am

I have a 1986 PT 40. It is taking as much as a half a day to fill the reserve water tank. I have replaced the fill switch control valve inside the coach under the bed. I still didn't get an increase in water flow. I also put 100 psi of air pressure on the street intake valve, but did not see any improvements. I found where the outside street water fill is connected under the bed, but can't get to it without removing the pressure tank. When I try to run water from the street straight to the faucets, I get a reduced volume of water and pressure. With a half tank of water, I can turn the pump on to draw from the storage tank, and everything works OK. I found a Jabsco replacement regulator and water intake. I don't know how to remove the female hose connector to see if the strainer/filter is plugged. I need some help.

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Subject: water system purge for wintewrizing


Author:
John Stuchlik
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 10/ 08, 11:19am

I have an 87 40'bbwl that has a purge system for winterizing. The micro valves are leaking and I'm trying to figure out how to eleiminate them altogether, the purge system never really worked. Also looking for advice on winterizing.

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Subject: Electrical/wiring


Author:
Brian Roth
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 4/ 08, 8:20am

I have a '81 35 footer with a 3208 cat. I have serious wiring problems both 12 volt and 110 and need a good electrical shop in the L.A./ Orange County area. Any ideas?

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[> Subject: Re: Electrical/wiring


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 9/ 08, 1:27pm

Hi Brian and others,

I had an '80 and now an '87. Before you have someone look at it besure that you have the AC & DC electrical diagrams for it; best if their blown up and as a working copy that can be written on. Have a list availlable that clearly states where all AC and DC load centers are physically located. Also list where the battery chargers are located, relays, load switches on and on. Go through the manual for them.

A shop could easily spend 1/2 hour looking for the battery chargers, and get sidetracked for much longer. Tackle a single system at a time, and read up on it. If the bus is new to you then thing might be working correctly. For examply, if the A/C units are not working, did you bump one of the switches by your left knee while driving. A/T switch if it won't start and so on.

There are typical problems for both the AC and DC system, a search of this site and others will make them apparent. Touch the various DC connectors when in use, if hot, a repair is needed and so on. Generally, splice points/barrel connectors become poor connectors in the DC systems, wires get chaffed, dirt and grime provide new electrical paths to ground, rubber parts fall apart and fail to insulate or provide physical protection.

People make changes to the original factory install. These can be for the better, or mind bendingly stupid, even unsafe. Just be awary that a few idiots have probably touched your bus before.

Be nosey, if you see a poor termination, see to it that it is not energized and returminate it. If copper is exposed, re-insulate if it is ok, or replace. Remember, it is very simple, one termination at a time. You don't even have to understand the circuit. Get a few descent tools if you do this, don't go cheap here, and use quality parts. You could pay an electrician w/a service van to spend an hour or two to show you the correct ways to do these thing, even tell you what tools to get, or you could figure it out yourself by doing some reading.

Except for things like new battery cables, you probably can't have this thing worked on in an economical fashion. Maybe you can if you have clearly stated what the specific problems are and can walk him through the systems. But don't be surprised if your charged for 8 hours shop time and see little for it; for this reason, some shops won't want to touch it.

I found on my 1980 that anything I took apart, someone had been there before and only put it partly back. But generaly any non-factory electrical work was third rate at best. Usualy these poor installs will stand out.

Again, some problems you don't really need to understand to repair, especially at first. If there is a poor looking connection, replace it and at the least one eventual problem will go away. If a connection gets hot, replace it, magically a light gets brighter, a heater now lights etc.

Hope this helps.

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Subject: Kohler 12.5 kW


Author:
Richard Carter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 9/ 08, 7:25am

Have a 1989 40' wlwb with a 12.5 Kohler generator, will the back half burned up an looking for a new one. Please call with information 217-433-0159

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[> Subject: Re: Kohler 12.5 kW


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 8/ 08, 6:09am

Not exactly sure but i think you are saying that the Kohler 12.5KW generator that is in your Blue Bird burned up and you need to replace it with a new generator, right?

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[> [> Subject: Re: Kohler 12.5 kW


Author:
Richard Carter
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 9/ 08, 7:25am

Thats right, looking for new or rebuild, an cost

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Subject: Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement


Author:
Michael Putz
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 5/ 08, 2:53pm

Hello All.. just picked up a 78FC35 and found the fresh water tank bad and water heater shot. I'm thinking about replacing the small water heater under the bed with an electric tankless type, has anyone tried this? If this would work I could replace the original fresh water tank with a larger one as I haven't found a stock replacement anywhere.

Michael

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[> Subject: Re: Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement


Author:
Rich D.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 23/ 08, 9:58am

I believe you will find that a tankless electric water heater will be less than satisfactory for RV use. Even if you have a 50 amp 120/240V service available you will be severely limited by the fact that you will have to wire the unit for 120V operation or it will not function when connected to a 30 amp 120V shore connection. At 3.4 BTU's per watt of electricity you just can't get enough heat to heat water on the fly. With a 30 amp hookup devoting just 10 amps for battery charging, microwave, TV, etc. (and NO air conditioning) you leave 20 amps or 2400 watts for heating the water. That's only 8184 BTU's. Not enough to heat more than a trickle. Most tankless heaters are about 60,000 BTU's for a max of 2 GPM. You will need to go with a gas or diesel tankless or a tank type electric.

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[> Subject: Re: Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 9/ 08, 12:26pm

Hello,

Replacing the freshwater tank is a pretty involved undertaking. Expect having to tear out much of the surrounding structures to get to it. The flooring might be rotted to the consistency of barkdust under that tank. The steel studs holding the old flooring down might be waiting to puncture the tank even more unless removed, their tops rusted away and now present themselves as nails. The rubber sheet that the tank sat on is probably dried out an no longer offers a non-slip surface that it originally did to keep the tank in place. You may find that other structures that alway sat on this flooring have also sufferred structural setback and need attention, shimmed or materials added/replaced.

Don't be surprised if a tank replacement is not redilaly located (INCA made the original and they were not interrested in making a replacement). Or that no local plastic shops want to take on the repair or fabricate a replacement. Your tank is weldable and repairable, go airless, it is low density PE (polyethelene, spelling is something like that). This is something that you can do yourself.

You could go with a simpler tank design, smaller, but if you install your overflow differently, end up with about the same effective capacity. On my 1980, I lost probably 20 gallons on the first steep hill.

If your tank still has original copper tubing to tank fill, this is to rigid and the tank will crack their. Swap this out with flexible plastic tubing. Stock on later busses.

I also beefed up the bed supports, rebuild the fridge shelf, added modern computer fans for the fridge. In general improved upon the factory design, with future access a consideration.

Don

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[> Subject: Re: Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement


Author:
dave powell
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 5/ 08, 2:53pm

hello michael:
if you haven't found a replacement fresh water tank by now,i have a good used
one from a 1980 35 fc bb my bird had 2 one under each bunk bed.
docpowell34@yahoo.com

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Subject: Pulling of Engine 8V-92


Author:
Rolf Larson (Exited)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 23/ 08, 7:30am

How hard is it to pull the engine *V 92 out of the chassi to do a repair .Is there a rail you can slide the engine out on ???? Thanks I bought this 89 42footer with a bad engine I need to have it pulled to get it to thr my shop ???

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[> Subject: Re: Pulling of Engine 8V-92


Author:
Ed Allison
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 4/ 08, 11:02pm

Please let us know what you have found out. I plan to pull a 6v92 from a 1985PT 40.(fire damage to cabin) Any info most appreciated

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Subject: 1980 wanderlodge air conditioners


Author:
dave powell (help)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 4/ 08, 2:44pm

does anyone know where i can get replacement shrouds for the kaiser 714h
model air conditioners the units work fine but the covers are falling apart?
if not what would be a good replacement?
thanks dave

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Subject: Interior headroom


Author:
Paul
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 22/ 08, 12:35pm

I have recently become interested in the Wanderlodge Motorhomes and have looked for some specification for the interior headroom on these units. I am 6' 2" and have to be careful not to get involved with something that will cause me to stoop whenever I move around. Some feedback is appreciated.

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[> Subject: Re: Interior headroom


Author:
Brian Roth
[Edit]

Date Posted: 09/ 4/ 08, 8:27am

I'm 6'3' and have been motoring around for 5 years in my '81 with only on e ducking point and that is the bedroom divider door. The frame drops a couple of inches from the ceiling. After the second smack upside the head, you remember!!!

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Subject: Towing capacity


Author:
Mike Lyons
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 21/ 08, 6:08am

I am looking for a motor home that will tow a trailer weighing about 10,000 lbs. Can anyone recommend which engine trans combination in a Blue Bird will do the job. I'm not looking for speed, but it must be capable of highway speeds. Thank you.

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[> Subject: Re: Towing capacity


Author:
bob maloney (towing cap)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 22/ 08, 5:13am

i have a 87 fc 35 my son and i tow our race car in and i am sure it weighs more than 10 with car and spares it cruises at the speed list except mountians it has 300 cat and zf 5 speed hope this helps bob

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Subject: winter water use


Author:
Jim Simko (Help)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 11/ 08, 6:37pm

Am considering a buying a very nice 1976 md with the cat 3208. Question is how or can I heat tanks and lines for (Alaska) winter use? The tanks look plastic? Thanks, Jim

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[> Subject: Re: winter water use


Author:
Jim (Hello)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 18/ 08, 7:02pm

How difficult is it to heat water lines and holding tanks for winter use in Alaska? Also what av milage can I expect from a non turbo 3208 1977 md 133K actual. Thanks, Jim

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Subject: 84 BB


Author:
Mike
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 17/ 08, 6:04pm

Just aquired a nearly new 84 35' BB 8,000. Ran perfect until today. Wont start. Engine Warning lite came on. checked all fluid levels. Still won't power starter.

Any suggestions??

Mike Z

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[> Subject: Re: 84 BB


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 1/ 08, 6:17am

Bluebird 8,000?

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[> [> Subject: Re: 84 BB


Author:
Mike Z
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 1/ 08, 10:16am

8,000 miles

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[> Subject: Re: 84 BB


Author:
Mike Z
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 17/ 08, 6:04pm

Got it. Wireing to the A/T broken. Repaired wire works great!!Thanks

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Subject: my 82 fc omly goes 55 mph at 2700 rpms


Author:
Gene Mehr (slow rider)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 5/ 08, 8:06am

I have a 82 fc 3208 nc for about 2 years When I bout it and test drove it, seemed slow 55 mph at 2800 rpms. I ask seller what cruising speed they travelled at and said 60 to 65 mph. We want on a trip this spring 5hrs into trip after pulling a pass tranny shifted into drive and locked up really good and was runing at 2650 rpms 60 mph hour. for the rest of day worked great. ON way home back to old runing speeds. took to trany shop for service and test. Road test with pressure gauge 135 psi at full trottle 125 psi at part throttle. Trans goes into lockup in 3rd 4rth. The shop said looks good. Sugested to rebuild for 3500.00 could not garrentee that my rebuild would make my bird faster than 55mph and i was imagining things when the bus was going 60mph at 2650 rpms. Tire size 11r 22.5 axle ratio 5.29 Motor 3208 na Trany allison mt 643.HELP

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[> Subject: Re: my 82 fc omly goes 55 mph at 2700 rpms


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 08/ 6/ 08, 4:32pm

Governed speed limmit should be 64-ish. Is your tack and and speedometer accurate? A GPS can give you accurate speed as a reality check. Your tack should be steady as you modulate the throttle somewhat, to prove that the transmission is truly in lock-up. Your transmission has a throttle position sensing cable that assists the transmition as far as shift points and I think lock-up; make sure this is in adjustment.

Your 82 is pretty heavy for a 3208NA, under certain load conditions 55 miles per hour will be as good as it gets, but if your at 2700 RPM and locked up, that should be about 61 mph. Consider changing the transmition fluid if you've never done that.

Don

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Subject: Nice bb Plates


Author:
Tommy Rountree
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 28/ 08, 4:51pm

Where do y'all get those nice bb logo plates some of you have on your bumpers. I would like to have one to place on the opposite side of the FMCA plate on the front and rear of my my coach (1994 PT40)

Tommy Rountree FMCA #31522

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Subject: Towing a Honda Pilot


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 24/ 08, 3:23am

I have a 2004 Honda Pilot that I am going to be towing with all 4 down on a short trip for the first time in about a week. All I have heard about towing a Pilot is that you need to start the engine and shift it though the gears after 8 hours of towing. Is there anything else that i should know?. Do they rack up miles when being towed? Also I'm hearing that the 2005 Pilot is the latest model that can be towed or is this Honda just being overly cautious because in the past some people would not bother to do the start the engine routine after 8 hours of towing and burn up some gears that need to be lubed by running it though the gears. Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Towing a Honda Pilot


Author:
Robert Loomas
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 16/ 08, 2:33pm

Sam Be sure to read your manual I no for my Elemnt it is listed in the book.

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[> Subject: Re: Towing a Honda Pilot


Author:
Bluebird Bob
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 23/ 08, 5:26pm

We have an 05 Element. The Pilot and Element have the same powertrain.
05 is the last year for Element towing and I would assume Pilot also.
Honda regional office told me reason is people didn't follow directions for running cars thru gears and they were replacing a lot of trannys.
06-08 have same drivetrains, as do Pilot, and if you tow these years and have tranny problems and have tow bars on front, Honda won't cover expenses.
Also on the Element, milage doesn't rack up with the electronic milage meter.
Hope this helps.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Towing a Honda Pilot


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 24/ 08, 3:23am

Bluebird Bob and Robert,sounds like to me that the 06-08 models can be towed if you do the right thing and run them though the gears. The reason I wanted this info is I will probably end up with a 08 or 09 Pilot in the near future. Thanks for the info guys.

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Subject: battery charger


Author:
Ralph Wilson
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 9/ 08, 8:14am

I have just purchased an 89-99 BB LX. the former owner ,trying to safe money, has put lead core batteries in. not deep cell, just lead core. he said when he went to charge it he could smell something, and he turned the charger off. then he used a portable charger to charge the batteries when not plugged in. my question is; do i do something to that charger to let it charge lead cell batteries? i realize that they are supposed to be gel cells. until i can get that done ,i am wondering if there is a switch to switch it. it does not seem obvious on that charger.
thanks
Ralph
i have named her "orchid"

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[> Subject: Re: battery charger


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 6/ 08, 6:07am

Get rid of those batteries now!...there is no switch. the charger is designed to charge deep cell batteries only. the lead cell batteries are not designed to be wired together like the deep cell batteries. The previous owner must have been in over his head to try and save money by doing that. Good luck

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[> Subject: Re: battery charger


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 9/ 08, 8:14am

If your saying he installed regular lead acid batteries, or better, deep cycle lead acid batteries rather than gell cells, that in and of itself is not the end of the world. A gell cell peek charging voltages are a bit lower than what is normally used on a lead acid battery. It will take you longer to charge your lead acid batteries. You will need to add water which could be a hassle. You need to figure out what is causing that smell etc.

Don

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Subject: cat engines


Author:
jim
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 8/ 08, 3:19pm

I have been looking a BB and it seems that most of the cat engines have been overhauled, or replaced at low mileage,
can someone tell me if these are undersized, underpowered,
or have just been abused. I hesitate to invest in one if I am going to have to replace the engine soon after I get it. Or should I look for one that has been replaced already and hope it lasts.

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[> Subject: Re: cat engines


Author:
Tim
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 13/ 08, 10:52am

I have wondered the same thing. I had a mechanic tell me to stay away from the Cat engines and stick to Detroit. I wonder why so many Cats get rebuilt when they should go for several 100K miles.

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[> [> Subject: Re: cat engines


Author:
Bill Garamella
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 18/ 08, 7:06pm

I am a relative newbie but, I have been following the various Wanderlodge formums for over a year. Based on this, I certain see reference to DDs being rebuilt as often as Cat's. The difference seems to be that the DDs can be overhauled in place (in-frame).

I also see comments about many coachs sitting around too much and some coach owners not maintaining them properly.

For example, I think overhead adjustments (valve lashing) on the 3208 is supposed to be done at 1,200 hours. This reguires removal of the dog house which is inconvinent. I suspect some people don't bother.

I have heard many stories of the 3208s being every bit as dependable as the DDs if they are serviced properly.

NH Bill 1983 FC SB

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[> Subject: Re: cat engines


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 20/ 08, 10:55am

Yep many motorhome engines are rebuilt with low milege,
This could be good or bad meaning; some owners of old Cat or DD did not take proper care of their machine and one must wander what else was not cared for...????/
Our 3208 purrs like a Cat should and 20 years old.

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[> Subject: Re: cat engines


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 8/ 08, 4:06am

Harvey's Column:
Among the Bluebirds produced and still on the road, there are a goodly number still with the 3208 in use and in several versions. They range from the 210 hp naturally aspirated 3208 to the turbo charged 300 hp and a couple of versions in between. The engine was originally designed by Caterpillar for use in medium sized work vehicles such as dump trucks, and busses, and other items like road repair machinery. It is often called the “throw away engine’ because it does not have the piston sleeves larger caterpillars have, and lacking these, if you have engine problems and badly score your piston walls, the engine block may have to be discarded and replaced. The engine can however be successfully overhauled and many hours of service has proven that it really is a tough one! Tough as it is however, the cat 3208 needs tender loving care to be a long performer and to maintain its full power though its service life. Most knowledgeable will quickly tell you that the service life is around 300,000 miles if care is given.

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[> Subject: Re: cat engines


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 8/ 08, 3:19pm

The simple truth is that 20+ years after new, on many coaches, there is no way of knowing for certain what level of care has occurred over the history of the rig; or if there were years with no use or service. Let alone if something bad has occurred and not corrected. You have to be nosey, check and look at everything, and know that it still could go badly wrong. Even well cared for rigs do brake down. The difference between then and now is that most of us on this forum are not millionares...

Don

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Subject: Questions on Detroit Diesels


Author:
Kent Slater
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 2/ 08, 4:15pm

I am in the market for a 1980's PT-40 and looking for some input on the DD engines. I see that most of the early PT-40's came equipped with the 6V92 engines verses the later models equipped with the 8V92s I have seen many positive comments on these motors but would appreciate any feedback on: a) how noticeable is the horsepower difference between the two engines, b) how much fuel consumption difference is there, c) what is the engine life expectancy (I see some Birds with engines being overhauled starting at 50-100K. My F-350 is at 300K miles and still strong), d) when inspecting a pre-owned bus, what are some signs that an engine overhaul might be required? Appreciate everyones insight. Kent

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[> Subject: Re: Questions on Detroit Diesels


Author:
Bruce Morris
[Edit]

Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 06, 11:03pm

Kent, check out the articles on the WOO site (wanderlodge.us). There is a very good article about the Detroit Diesels used in the Wanderlodge.

I think it will probably answer any question you have.

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[> Subject: Re: Questions on Detroit Diesels


Author:
Jim Scoggins
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 12/ 06, 4:35pm

Here is some info I got somewhere. I forget the source.

Quote

"The 92-series Detroits are two-cycle engines.

All current production diesels are 4-cycle.

Detroit stopped production on the 2-strokers due to EPA requirements - and for no other reason. They simply would not meed EPA emissions requirements on or off-road, no matter what they tried - and try mightily they did, with their DDEC and then DDEC-II (electronic control) systems.

Ultimately, they were forced into 4-stroke production.

It is true that modern electronic engines get better fuel efficiency. However, there is a LOT to be said for a basic engine design that goes back to WWII!

I have 6V92s on my boat (two of 'em.) Detroit's basic design was simplicity itself, and ingenious. The supercharger on these engines is necessary; they will not run without them. There is no intake valve system at all. The valves are all for exhaust; as the piston moves down on a power stroke, the exhaust valves open and at the same time the piston uncovers a port, much like a 2-stroke outboard motor, that leads to an airbox that is pressurized by the blower. The clean air forces out the exhaust. When the piston moves back upward the valves close and the ports are covered; compression occurs, and fuel is injected at the appropriate time. Injection is performed by a cam-driven unit injector. The design is extremely simple - ingenious, really. The emissions problem comes from being unable to perfectly scavenge the exhaust. However, these engines tend to run very low EGTs compared to 4-stroke turbodiesels due to the overabundance of air that flows through them on a given power cycle.

The nice thing about Detroits is that there is no high-pressure injection pump or electronics. They will run, once started, so long as they have fuel and compression. You can also replace the entire fuel system (the injectors) for about $100 a hole and the low pressure fuel lift pump for a couple hundred bucks - these are unit injector engines. With under $200 worth of special tools you can keep a Detroit running in tip-top shape for a loooong time, and properly maintained they are great motors. They have a reputation (somewhat earned) as oil leakers, which is due to the fact that Detroit made the blocks so they could be "doubled" - thus, you have 6V92s, 8V92s, 12V92s (two 6V92s end-to-end) and 16V92s (two 8V92s end to end!) This, however, means there are oil ports and such on the ends of the blocks that have plugs in them and thus they tend to leak oil....

The other thing to be aware of is that Detroits are quite inexpensive to get parts for. A cylinder kit, for example, is about $600 - that's the liner, piston, con-rod, rings, etc - the whole shot. One new hole, coming up. So for about $5k in parts you can do a complete kit replacement, and it can be done "in-frame" - without pulling the motor.

Detroits have no glow plugs and "off the shelf" no starting assist. They are ENTIRELY dependant on engine compression to start. They also require (not recommend, REQUIRE) straight weight 40 grade Cx-II oil. Multigrade oils are strictly forbidden due to the high shear strength required by the injector followers - you WILL destroy cams if you run a 15W40 in them, for example, and you'll also get incessant low oil pressure warnings and probably a spun main to go with it. Unlike "modern" diesels its not uncommon (nor a problem) to have oil pressure readings as low as 10psi at idle when fully warmed up! Normal oil pressure at power (1800 rpmish) is in the 45-50psi range though, just like modern engines. What this means is that in cold weather you need STOUT batteries or you will not be able to roll them over at a high enough RPM to get 'em to light. Block heaters are strongly recommended for the winter months. Ether is very dangerous to use on these engines; I know people who have and do, but my recommendation is "never" on a Detroit.

The nemesis on the 92 Series Detroits is overheating. This is a wet liner design with elastomer (O-ring) seals at the top and bottom of the cylinder liner. If you overheat these engines, even just a bit, the liner seals will be compromised. The result will be oil to cooling system leaks, and if not caught very quickly, damage to the mains or even worse, a spun main and damaged crank. Cooling system maintenance is THE big deal on these motors. Keep them running cool and all is well. Let them get hot and you will be rebuilding them.

Also, later versions of these engines in "turbo" trim used aftercoolers, which are under the blower. That needs to be kept clean; getting to it requires removing the blower, which requires disturbing the governor and fuel rack. Its not a tough job, but it is a pain in the butt. Thus, its important to avoid exhaust leaks and use a good air cleaner so that becomes an infrequent problem rather than a frequent one.

Finally, there is the matter of airbox drains. The airbox on a Detroit is where the blower "accumulates" the charge for scavenging and the new combustion cycle. The blower seals, as the blower ages, and turbo seals will eventually leak small amounts of oil, and the compression and then cooling of the air charge causes water to condense. The airbox drains allow this accumulated crud out of the airbox instead of having it sucked into the cylinders where it will cause abnormal wear. On turbo motors there are check valves located at each drain; these must work properly. If they stick open or closed its bad news; many people neglect these service items. They should be pulled and cleaned at every oil change, and if you have motors where Detroit routed them back to the oil pan (they did on some motors, as the EPA had a kitten about the original design which just allowed the slop to go onto the road) you will do your engine a huge favor by removing that and routing them to a "crap can" that you then empty once in a while (at oil change intervals is a good choice.)

I'm very much "up" on the 92-series engines, since I own two and maintain them myself. Set up for reasonable power levels (500HP from an 8V92TA is reasonable) and proper maintenance they provide extraordinarily good service. The 8V89TA CAN be "hot-rodded" to as far as 750HP quite cheaply just by changing injectors and a few other things - don't be tempted, as the service life in that configuration can be as short as 1500 hours or less between overhauls!

The DDEC and DDEC-II versions of these engines replace the mechanical fuel rack with electronic control of the injectors and a bunch of sensors in an attempt to get cleaner and more fuel-efficient operation from them. Its mostly successful, but now you're into the computer-controlled realm and simple mechanical maintenance procedures go out the window.

If I was going to own a Detroit-powered coach, I'd want one with mechanical injection - if I'm gonna buy an electronic engine, I want one of the new design ones, as if I'm gonna get the warts I want the benefits too. With a handful of parts and a few tools on board I can fix these things by the side of the road if necessary so long as I haven't spun a main or something equally catastrophic - something you simply won't be doing with "today's technology".

End Quote

Regards,
Jim Scoggins

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[> [> Subject: Re: Questions on Detroit Diesels


Author:
pedro lopez (? question)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 30/ 08, 11:38am

what is the cause that the exhaust alarm to go on ?
on a 12v92 marine engine.

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[> Subject: Re: Questions on Detroit Diesels


Author:
Jim Scoggins
[Edit]

Date Posted: 11/ 14/ 06, 6:02am

Here is another article I picked up. It is focused toward yacht applications but is sgenerally germane for our usage.

Quote

Diesel

Comparing Diesel Types

Two Cycle, Four Cycle
by David Pascoe

Check out the Internet forums and you will see these questions asked over and over again: What is the best diesel engine choice for a boat. In a way, that is sort of like asking what woman you should marry, since the question is posed without any parameters. Or at least parameters that questioners are capable of defining.
Currently, there are three major diesel competitors, Detroit Diesel, Caterpillar and Cummins. Engines like M.A.N., MTU, Yanmar and Volvo have a much smaller market. Moreover, the differences between the engines offered by the three companies could hardly be much more different. Experience has shown that, like most manufacturers, they make some good ones, and occasionally some not-so-good ones. In terms of overall reliability, I’d rate them about the same -- all parameters being equal. Of course, that is an utterly useless appraisal. There are a huge number of variables that come into play, that can make engine selection something that requires very careful consideration whether you're buying a new or used boat. So, I’m going to explain in detail why this is a difficult question to answer, and why it is that choosing a particular manufacturer shouldn't be the only decision criteria. An awful lot depends on how you are going to run your boat, and the kind of performance and service life you expect.

WEB INFO UPDATE It's taken them awhile, but most engine companies now have engine technical data posted on their web sites. Last year, most did not, so this is good news for buyers wanting to do technical comparisons.

There are two basic engine types, two cycle and four cycle. The former is represented by Detroit Diesel alone, while the later by both Cummins and Caterpillar and virtually all the others, for only DD makes two cycle engines. The differences between the two types is very substantial, with each having their pros and cons depending on the application of the engine.

Before I get into this, let me first dispel some myths about diesels. These engines developed their reputation for reliability and very long engine life beginning over a hundred years ago, a reputation that, for the most part, no longer holds. That reputation was based up very unsophisticated, slow turning, low horsepower engines. Except for sailboat auxiliaries, you won’t find many such engines in existence today. Today we have a "need for speed," and everyone wants to go fast. Going fast is what negates the virtues of those engines from a by-gone era.

The modern diesel is very sophisticated, complex, lighter weight and very powerful. Hence, their life span is often no more than that of a gas engine, often times even less. To say that they are delicate is not an overstatement. There is a very simple rule today that the more power you try to squeeze out of a given engine block, the less service life it will give. People can argue all they want to, but that is a fact.

Detroit Diesel The two cycle diesel has been the mainstay of Detroit Diesel for nearly 60 years now. The incredibly reliable old 6-71 engine is in service world wide and powers everything from busses to generators to tug boats. Its service record is unparalleled.

Two cycle and four cycle engines each have their pros and cons. The operating system of the two cycle is radically different than the four cycle, which operates more like an ordinary gas engine without spark plugs. The Detroit Diesel engine is unique and is not offered by any other manufacturer. This engine utilizes a moderately heavy cylinder block that is quite complex in its casting. Compared to a MTU or Volvo, it is light; compared with Yanmar or Cummins, it is heavy. It is a long stroke, smaller bore engine than most four cycles. The Cat 3208, for example, has a fairly short stroke, as do the Cummins V-8’s. This gives the Detroit engine considerably higher torque at lower speed ranges, but limits its top RPM range: the longer the stroke, the slower the engine has to run. Thus, higher power at lower speeds.






Credit: Detroit Diesel Allison

The Detroit injector system is just one of the major differences over four cycle engines.The two stroke cycle.




The push rods of these engines are also about 33% longer than most 4 stroke engines, creating more rotational mass and therefore more rotational torque. Altogether, the engine delivers more power from less displacement, lower speed, but higher casting weights, while fuel consumptions remain approximately the same.

The typical V-8 Detroit engine today has more than double the number of internal parts as say a Caterpillar V-8, making it a more sophisticated, but remarkably not more costly engine. Why not more expensive with all those extra parts? Well, there is a very good reason for that, which is that DD is the largest diesel engine manufacturer in the world. They sell a lot of parts, and higher production means lower cost. Typically, DD engine parts are considerably less expensive than Caterpillar parts. But there’s more to it than that. Most of all 71 and 92 series (can) use interchangeable parts. This interchangeability also has a tremendous effect on parts costs. It also means that world wide, there are more mechanics trained to work on DD than any other. Stocking costs are also much lower because of the interchangeability.

The downside to this engine is that these numerous parts do create something of a more serious wear problem over the four cycle with fewer and less delicate parts. This situation becomes magnified with poor maintenance, and therefore they do require more care, though not necessarily at significantly higher cost.

How It Works The DD four exhaust valves and a blower, compared with a four cycle with only two valves and no blower. Each cylinder liner has a row of 14 oblong holes near the bottom. After the compression stroke, the piston travels downward, past this row of holes. This is similar to the way an outboard motor works. Except that once the piston goes below the holes, called scavenging ports, the blower forces air in at high pressure from what is called the air gallery cast into the block. Thus, the DD has not only water jackets, but air galleries cast in the block as well. This one thing that makes DD blocks more complex.

The pressurized air then "scavenges" or forces out the burned gasses up through the four exhaust valves. This enables the engine to make only two revolutions to complete the combustion cycle rather that the four required of the four cycle engine, which relies on a second upward stroke of the piston to exhaust the cylinder of burned gas. In theory, this makes the engine more efficient. In reality, all the friction caused by all those extra moving parts eats up some of the efficiency gain. Why? Because of the drag created by the non-compression stroke, and the power to drive the blower and extra cam shaft. Even so, there is a major power gain through this design.

So the DD engine is left with certain advantages such as more immediate power delivery and higher power at lower speeds. This is one of the things that has made these engines more popular with the commercial boat industry. The four cycle engine has to throttle up to a higher RPM before a similar amount of power is delivered to the propeller.

The fuel systems are both very different and yet similar. The DD has no fuel injector pump, but rather each injector is it’s own fuel pump. An injection pump is sort of like a small engine with 6 or 8 cylinders and pistons that pump and supply fuel to the injector which, in a four cycle engine is nothing more than a spray nozzle like on the end of a garden hose, albeit a bit more refined. On a DD engine, each injector is operated by the dual underhead camshafts that are immediately below the head.

A Detroit Diesel uses its fuel as part of the cooling system to the cylinder head and injector. It returns a LOT of fuel back to the tank, and it is very hot. Thus, a DD has a fuel oil cooler, whereas the four cycle does not. With Detroits, you have to worry about the state of fuel return to the tank when, for example, you decide to run off of one tank only. Detroits for the most part are self-priming fuel system. Woe to the captain who gets air into the fuel system of a four cycle engine system. You got to get that air out, or it will not run.

Now here is where the DD gets all those extra working parts. Each cam shaft has three lobes per cylinder. Two to run two pairs of exhaust valves and one to run the injector. All are actuated by roller followers placed in the head with a very short "pushrod." This actuates the injector plunger that pressurizes the fuel and squirts the vaporized fuel in the cylinder.

Unlike a 4 cycle, the fuel metering is all controlled by the injector and a throttle control lever on the injector actuated by the "rack," just a long bar that controls all injectors simultaneously. "Adjusting the rack" is how you tune a DD fuel system. If the rack is not adjusted properly, the injectors will get either too much or too little fuel and the owner won’t have a happy face. Between the two engine types, the injectors are the main show on DD engines; the fuel pump is the big deal on 4 cycle engines -- i.e. the gizmo that eats the most greenbacks. On a DD individual injectors can go bad without jeopardizing the whole system. With a 4 cycle engine, when the fuel injection pump goes, its lights out. Two advantages of the DD fuel system is that it is considerably less sensitive to fouled fuel, plus the injectors are self-priming so that you don’t suffer the priming problems often encountered with 4 cycle engines. While the injection pump system is more reliable and requires less frequent service, the DD injectors are more efficient.

The blower and turbocharger aspiration system constitutes another major difference. The four cycle engine is aspirated through intake valves next to the exhaust valves; the DD engine has only exhaust valves, but twice as many of them. The DD cylinder heads are very complex and expensive to replace if one gets damaged, such as cracking from overheating. All those extra working parts make for more potential trouble, but also increase efficiency considerably. This why, pound for pound, DD squeezes quite a bit more horsepower out of their engines than CAT does.

Cummins Model QSM11 Marine Engine Crankshaft power (high output) 474 kW 635 hp
Crankshaft power (intermittent) 433 kW 580 bhp

Crankshaft power (high output) 399 kW 535 bhp

Rated speed 2300 rpm 2300 rpm

Bore x stroke 125x147 mm 4.92x5.79 in

Displacement 10.8 liters 661 cu in

Number of cylinders Inline 6

Engine weight w/o gear 1125 kg 2,475 lb

Fuel consumption Liters per hour 124.9

Gallons per hour 33.0

Compare the specs of this Cummins engine with that of a Detroit of comparable power rating. Isn't it interesting that this new Cummins engine only turns 2300 rpm? Note that the Detroit weight includes gear, while Cummins does not, typically another 400-600 lbs depending on engine size.
Other significant differences include the large auxiliary drive housings on the Detroit. As mentioned, these are basically commercial engines, and the drive housing is designed to drive other components such as pumps, air compressors, even alternators through a gear drive rather than the belts you get on a four cycle. This is the large housing you find on the back of the engine and is full of gears. This becomes significant in larger yachts where you may want to drive a powerful hydraulic pump for things like stabilizers and bow thrusters. With a four cycle, you have to go through a lot of rigmarole setting up belt drive pumps, whereas there is a ready made pump to do whatever job you need from your Detroit. Need an air compressor? No problem, just buy it and bolt it on. No muss, no fuss.

Turbochargers and Blowers Turbochargers are similar to jet engines. It has two sides and two turbines. The exhaust side has the turbine immediately after the exhaust manifold and uses the rushing hot exhaust gasses to turn it. The other turbine is attached to the same shaft, and pulls fresh air in and forces it into the air induction system. Because the turbo gets hot, it also heats up the air on the intake side, which is why you have to have an intercooler to reduce this air temperature. Remember, we said that the higher the intake air temperature, the lower the engine performance? Ergo, when you’re intercooler gets dirty, you loose engine performance.

You might wonder why, if the Jimmy already has a blower (which I have described as doing the same job of evacuating exhaust gases), why do they put turbochargers on it? Well, simply because the blower can only blow so much air. The turbo will increase the air flow proportional to engine speed. It simply forces yet more air to the blower, thereby increasing the speed and completeness with which the exhaust gasses are evacuated from the cylinder. They call it "boost," and it doesn't kick in until the turbo pressure exceeds the blower pressure.

The turbocharger simply adds more air pressure to the "Jimmy" blowers. You know, those big things sticking up on the top of the old time drag racers made famous by the likes of "Big Daddy" Don Garlits, and how they took an ordinary car engine and squeezed 1,000 hp or more out of it for about 15 seconds. That’s all the longer the engine would last! What a diesel blower and turbo does is to evacuate the exhaust gasses faster and more completely. And it also greatly reduces the internal cylinder temperature. A diesel has no spark plugs. The fuel is ignited by compressing it until it explodes under extreme pressure, about 550 psi. It explodes because the pressure causes the fuel and air to heat up. This heat has to be gotten rid of or we have a big problem on our hands. The blower is a big help.

You can probably appreciate that if the cylinder is not cooled down before the next compression cycle, the temperature inside the cylinder is going to be rather hot. Thus, when the piston comes up and starts compressing the atomized fuel, it is going to exploded SOONER because the cylinder air temperature is higher. It's a matter of timing. This is bad news because the detonation is going to occur a few nanoseconds before the piston reaches top dead center. This throws the engine timing off and can result in acute loss of power and other serious problems. Like connecting rods through the block.

Now, this can happen in both 2 and 4 cycle engines, so now you know why maintaining the intercooler and heat exchanger in tip top shape is of extreme importance to your engine’s health and longevity. Neglect it and Big Bill is going to knock on your door sooner rather than later.

The bottom line is that the Detroit Diesel gets more power from a slower turning engine with fairly light weight engine castings (by yesteryear's standards). Keeping the engine speed down is very important to longevity.

The four cycle engine doesn’t have this abundance of extra parts. It is a simpler and more basic engine. You might think, aha, that’s great, simplicity is good. Yes, it is, as long as you don’t want to go fast. Problem is, you do, and so now we are going to subvert the benefits of simplicity to achieve more power. This is done by pumping in more fuel and turning the engine faster, usually around 400 to 600 RPM faster than a DD. That may not seem like much, but to a diesel it’s around 25% faster. Now all your benefits of simplicity and long life have just gone down the drain because you want to go fast.

Now we’re back to square one with the Cat and DD engines evening out on the overall scorecard except for one thing. All things being equal, engine longevity between the two averages out to about the same. But you get quite a bit more power out of the DD than the Cat for each cubic inch of displacement.

Probably the most outstanding feature of the DD engine is its versatility in terms of power ratings. Any DD engine can be run at a broad range of power ratings by making relatively minor changes at fairly low cost. This is not possible with four cycle engines, and is one of the things that has endeared DD to the marine industry. For about $1200 you can just change injector size and change the power rating, particularly downward if you want to depower. Increasing injector size, of course, is going to reduce engine life. Again, this is possible because injectors are self-metering and a wide range of sizes is readily available.

Caterpillar DD engines tend to be large due to the long stroke, complex engine block and more components. You won’t find many 6V71’s or 92’s in the 30-40 foot range boats because it’s a hard fit. The short stroke Cat 3208 engine is one of the most popular in this size boat because it has a very low profile: it fits, allowing boat designers to create low profile boats with adequate headroom.. Given your druthers, you might take a pair of 500 hp 6V92’s over a pair of 400 hp Cats any day. Problem is, on smaller boats, you have to give up some interior space to make the DD’s fit. Mama don’t like that, so you end up with lower power. Such is life in the fast lane.

So why can’t you get a higher powered Cat? Well, they tried running the 3208 up to 475 hp and that smaller block just couldn’t handle it. Best it can do is 425, and even then they had to lower the compression and ended up with a smokier engine. This engine does best at 375 hp.

Yes, Cat does make the long stroke, inline series engine but now you are back to the same old high profile engine again. To make matters worse, with say the 3176 rated at 500 hp, you now have a bigger, heavier engine running at a higher speed and more fuel to give the same power as the little 6V92 does with the same space requirement. So which would you want? Pick ‘em.

The Cat 3208 is a good, reliable engine that, like all engines, will give you good, reliable service as long as they’re not souped up. They will do very well at pushing boats in the 32-38’ range, and do fairly well at pushing larger boats that have flatter bottoms and running at lower speeds, say around 20-22 kts. Where they will fall down is in a larger boat with a deeper vee, simply because of the inefficiency of the hull. Using a pair of 425 hp 3208’s to move a heavier, deeper vee 40 footer is not a good idea. At this point the boat will need the heavier 3176 engine or DD’s.

These tables show the relative weights and power ratings of MAN and Detroit Diesel. Note that in most cases, the Detroit is a heavier engine.
Now take a look at the Caterpillar 3208 specs in the table below. Notice that it's displacement is is 636 cu. in., more than 100 cu. in. greater than the 6V92 at 522 cid. So why is it that they're squeezing 550 hp out of the Detroit, and only 435 hp out of the Cat? Why can't they get 600 hp out of it? Here is where my 1:1 displacement/hp rule takes a dump. Why? Well, again, compare engine weights. The Cat is a light weight engine at only 1740 lbs WITH GEAR. It does not have replaceable liners and is a throwaway block. Plus it runs 500 rpm faster. That very light weight block cannot handle either the increased stress and heat increases that more power puts out.

Where's the beef? Well, it's not there. If you could see a 3208 and 6V92 sitting together side-by-side on the floor, you'd be blown away at the difference in overall size. The smaller displacement 6-V92 is ONE THIRD physically larger than the Cat. Beef is one of the key ingredients to higher power and reliability. The amount if iron contained in the block makes a difference. This is a problem we have with all automotive conversions. Lightness is fine for automotive use because it doesn't need those high powers, whereas in marine engines, we do. The Cat big block engines have always performed better because these were built for industrial applications. It's been much the same for Detroit. Except for the 6-71 in busses, their engines are rarely used in on-road applications. Heavy equipment, yes, trucks, no. Cat and Cummins have the automotive market, which they serve well.

The bottom line is that the 6V92 and the two cycle engines are substantially more efficient engines, but you pay a premium in weight and the space to mount it in. In terms of power out equivalency, the 3208 and 6-71 are similar, though the edge for endurance goes to the 6-71. Both engines in their non-turbocharged versions will darn near last forever with good care.

The Effects of Turbocharging A four cycle diesel relies upon piston suction to draw air into the cylinder. This creates a lot of drag, but is much better at dissipating heat. For all performance engines, getting rid of the heat of combustion is a major problem. When a turbocharger is added, it eliminates this suction and forces air into the cylinder at a much faster rate, as well as being under pressure. Problem is, that turbo air is hotter, so it results in a temperature increase, even with intercoolers. Even though the turbo creates extra drag itself, it also allows each cylinder to get a large shot of fuel. This results in a disproportionately large increase in power, which is why they do it.

But you've already figured the downside, haven't you? Yep, more fuel results in even more heat. Increased heat AND power is a double whammy that causes a net reduction in engine life. Never mind the effects of just increased strain alone. This is no different than the human body. You can work it just so hard before it begins to break down. Another effect is that the higher the power output, the more critical maintenance becomes. The neglected maintenance that you could get away with on the lower power engine won't be tolerated at all with the high performance version. Minor injuries will put these babies out of the game fast. That old 6-71 at 250 hp that would chug along for decades with total neglect, will fly to pieces at 435 hp with a minor cooling system problem. Why? Because it was never designed to dissipate those kind of heat build ups. With that kind of power, there is no such thing as a minor overheat. Every little deficiency becomes a major fault.

Which to Choose? For smaller boats -- under 15,000 lbs or so, it probably doesn't make that much difference because the available choices are so few. The one critical feature should be the hp/displacement ratio of not more than 110% or so.

For boats at 20k lbs and above, pushing those weights without excessive engine strain becomes a major issue. Here's where the big, beefy blocks really stand out. I write all this stuff so you can understand the why's and wherefores of making good choices. There's nothing like knowing the reason why you should spend more money for something. There are lots of places you can cut corners, but engine selection shouldn't be one of them.

The Cat 3208 remains a good choice for medium size boats where high speed is not the issue. These engines definitely do better in lighter boats at lower speeds. They're a lot less good for pushing one of those 40k Taiwan trawler types at 21 knots.

The other little Cats? Un, uh. Someone's gotta prove to me that we're not going to be seeing any more of them yanked out and sitting on the docks. I just tripped over a less than one year old 3116 engine yesterday.

For high speed in a moderately light, express type mid sized boat, the Cummins seem to be performing well. As I've said, they've not been around long enough to know for sure.

For your larger boats, and very heavy smaller boats (e.g. small Hats, Berties, etc.) I still think the Detroits are the best way to go, both from a cost and reliability stand point. Here your choices expand to MAN and MTU, but when considering both initial cost and repair and maintenance costs, these engines are enormously expensive. Nor are these German engines quite as reliable as many people are led to believe. These engines have had their fair share of design faults also.

Engines such as the 12V92 have not compared as favorably as the 12V71, though the later is capable of less power. Former has had considerably less average engine life than expected between overhauls. In part, that has had to do with the hot rod applications they're subjected to, so it's hard to know how they fare in something other than hotrods. This basic engine was initially offered at 850 hp @2300 but is now up to 1110 hp. The 1040 hp versions have done fairly well when properly matched to load. 2000 hrs between overhauls is not uncommon.

The 6-71, 6V92 and 8V92 perform well at reasonable horsepowers. For overall longevity, I'd opt for the 6-71 in any boat where the power range is applicable. Reliability is without parallel. In the hot rod class, I'll take the 6V92 at less than 550 hp while being prepared to follow the maintenance guide religiously. This is a spectacular little power plant for those that like to push the 30 knot envelope in a mid size boat.

The 8V92 would fall into the same category, except that the modifiers like JT, S&S and Covington try to squeeze too much power out of these blocks. A good deal at 735 hp and below. A poor choice above that.

For lightweight or smaller hotrods, the 3208 will do fine, with the same caveat as above.

When money is not the issue, by all means play around with the German diesels. Just beware that you're not going to get them fixed for the price of a Detroit. As with Mercedes (to whom they are related), those people aren't shy about pricing. They stick it to you good.

What about the others? Well, another year has gone by and all we've seen are the Big Three. It's always been the case that big diesels are too expensive to fool around with. The best choices are those with the best track records. Especially when buying used boats where the warranty is signed by your own name.

Load Matching The criteria discussed above are not the only factors. Of late we have been running into a lot of propellering problems. If the builder puts the right size on, the owner starts fooling around with exotic propellers trying to make it go faster. Engines become overloaded and accelerated wear takes over. When this happens, all bets are off. Other factors include badly balanced boats which don't trim out properly, resulting in engine overloads.

Repowering We get a lot of questions about how to go about repowering a boat. Particularly the conversion of gas to diesel. Let me just say that to do this properly requires a degree in higher education, particularly engineering and naval architecture. If you think you can just slap a pair of engines in there with only a few, inexpensive modifications, you are mistaken. If you're not willing to pay the cost of an expert engineer, then you're on your own. But be prepared for some very major and expensive disappointments.

Current Trends In recent years there has been much talk about light weight, higher power diesel engines. We all thought that Yanmar was going to lead the way with their little truck engines with all those aluminum parts hung on them. This hasn’t happened, and it’s a good thing, too. A few years ago, Caterpillar introduced their 3100 series of new 6 cylinder engines. These are moderate weight engines with as low profile as one can get with an inline six.

Yet nearly every one of this line has experienced severe cylinder head design problems with these souped up applications. Cummins, with a similar type engine, has been grabbing their market with their record of better reliability, at horsepowers considerably beyond what I would have thought they could get away with. However, even the Cummins late models haven’t been in use long enough that we’ve had time to get a handle on general service life.

The problem with diesels, you see, is that unless an engine has design problems, it takes about 15 years before we get a handle on longevity. Only a surveyor gets to see a hundred or more set of engines per year closely, and in actual service. The design problems we learn about in a hurry, as boat owners start making a bit of a fuss when engines crap out early. On the other hand, if we had judged the 6V92 by its first few years in service (it had beaucoup problems), it wouldn’t exist today. Unfortunately for Caterpillar, they’ve allowed their cylinder head problems to hang around too long. Whatever one might have to complain about Detroit Diesel, at least whether it be GM or the Penske group, they’ve managed to keep their customers happy. Their response to problems has been excellent over the years.

Fortunately, ideas about light weight, hot rod diesels are dying a natural death. It’s hard enough making the moderate weight engines last a reasonably long time. Moreover, the reduction in weight is not needed, as people are discovering that ultralight boats make for unpleasant experiences on rough water.

There’s just no getting away from the fact that if you want reliability and economy, keep it heavy, and keep it slow, and around 1:1 on the hp/displacement ratio.

And one more thing. Don't power your boat on the margin. Give it a bit more power than you think it needs. That way engines don't strain as much to give you the speed you want. You're going to pay for what you need one way or the other, be it on the front end, or on the back.

Posted December 11, 1999

end quote

Regards,
Jim Scoggins

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[> Subject: Re: Questions on Detroit Diesels


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 2/ 08, 4:15pm

Hello,

I have an 8V92 450HP (California Emissions -vs- 475). I drove an 6V92, same size of bus that I thought was a real dog; I also though it did need an overhall...very high mileage and lots of white/blue smoke that got better but would not go away. Both busses have/had a fuel delay mechanism to slow off the line acceleration; don't let that shock you. But the 6V92 would slow at a rumor a hill, maybe worse than a 3208NA.

Any engine that sits with the same coolant in it for 3 to 6 years for how many times(?), is due for some costly work. Figure the same if there have been no oil changes, filters, rust, and on and on.

Depending on how much driving you'll be doing, unless your concerned w/catastrophic failure (and you have reason to believe that may be the case: clank, clank, clank..., fluids in where they ought not be and so on), for many of us a bit of smoke is not that big of a deal considering how few hours we actually log in a year.

Many DD engines get rebuilt as a sort of insurance. So long as fuel economy is not insane, or you can't get over the hills; generally these will be hard to start, lots of smoke, blue rings, white injectors. A DD due for overhall w/a decent past can last the RVist a long time.

Keep an eye on rubber. It gets old and brittle.

Regards, Don

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Subject: Windshield Replacement (Driver Side)


Author:
willie green
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 1/ 08, 12:06pm


I need to replace the Windshield (Driver Side) on my 82FC-33 and would appreciate any info in locating a replacement...

Thanks, Willie

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[> Subject: Re: Windshield Replacement (Driver Side)


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 1/ 08, 10:34am

Had passenger side replaced at BB Fort Valley last Fall.
Only about one hour repair.
Contact your local School Bus garage , they will know a local installer.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Windshield Replacement (Driver Side)


Author:
willie green
[Edit]

Date Posted: 07/ 1/ 08, 12:06pm


THANKS!!

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Subject: Light ballast


Author:
Don Meyer
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 25/ 08, 8:47am

Hello all,

I have a 1986 PT38. The 12 volt light ballast for one of the bedroom lights went out. I'm having a hard time finding a 12 volt ballast that will produce the 56 watts (or more) required for the 6' flourecent tube. There is no usable part number on the old ballast and BB was no help. Anyone out there know where to find the proper ballast?
Thanks, Don Meyer 561-703-7907

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[> Subject: Re: Light ballast


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 23/ 08, 7:43pm

Stephen Birtles has the ballasts

http://www.dupreeproducts.com/

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[> [> Subject: Re: Light ballast


Author:
Don Meyer
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 24/ 08, 2:52pm

Thanks for the info. I called Steve and he does not have the right ballast. It's turning our to be a very dificult part to find. From what the "experts" are telling me, it has to be the proper ballast or it will not work. It must be 50 watts or more output (powers a 56 watt bulb) and obviously has to be 12 volt input. The bulb it powers is part # F72T12. single tube, one pin on each end.
Anyone with ideas, please let me know.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Light ballast


Author:
Rich D.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 25/ 08, 8:47am

Expensive but they have it here:

http://www.goodmart.com/products/541349.htm

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Subject: Light ballast


Author:
Don Meyer
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 23/ 08, 1:49pm

Hello all,

I have a 1986 PT38. The 12 volt light ballast for one of the bedroom lights went out. I'm having a hard time finding a 12 volt ballast that will produce the 56 watts (or more) required for the 6" flourecent tube. There is no usable part number on the old ballast and BB was no help. Anyone out there know where to find the proper ballast?
Thanks, Don Meyer 561-703-7907

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Light ballast


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 24/ 08, 6:30pm

It may be time to change to a more available ballast and two pin light bulb, If it is the long bulb, try two shorter bulbs & ballasts. The light tube sockets are available at Lowes / HomeDepot. Tie the two pins together.

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Subject: Jim Scoggins


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 9/ 08, 4:27pm

Dan Sunderland just posted that our friend and fellow Bluebird owner, Jim Scoggins passed away today. Details will be forthcoming. A great friend and a great loss. Ernie

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[> Subject: Re: Jim Scoggins


Author:
Ernie
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 8/ 08, 5:18pm

If anyone has info about funeral arrangements, please post here. Thanks, Ernie

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[> [> Subject: Re: Jim Scoggins


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 9/ 08, 4:27pm

Jim is at Mullins & Thompson Funeral home, 186 Shelton Shop rd, Stafford, Va 22556 540-659-7690
The funeral will be at Quantico Base Chapel, Fri June 13 at 1pm.

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Subject: Alan Jackson


Author:
Mr Borr
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 8/ 08, 12:47pm

After working on my parents 1980 wanderlodge, i found a signature in the "builders book" of an Alan Jackson. Does anyone know if THE Alan Jackson ever worked at the factory?

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Subject: help w/ Wanderlodge valuation


Author:
Howard
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 4/ 08, 12:10am

I am trying to find valuaton for 1982 wanderlodges.
I have looked in bluebook but canot seem to locate the 1982 FC35 or PT40 values.
can anyone help?
thanks, howard

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[> Subject: Re: help w/ Wanderlodge valuation


Author:
Ed Wimberley
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 6/ 08, 6:07pm

I purchased a 1982 35ft pusher with tag axle 6v/92 Detroit
in March 2008 Was listed 40k by owner offered 35k settled on 35.5k. Very pleased with Bird feel it was good price.
I guess the value truly depends on condition and preference.
Yes we have some issues with unit but nothing abnormal or unexpected with an older Bird.
Very pleased with road driveability already driven about 1500 miles

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Subject: 85 PT36 6V92TA oil pressure indicator sender


Author:
Robin (help)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 06/ 1/ 08, 11:16am

I have an eratic/intermittent oil pressure sender unit.
Before I climb in there can anyone tell me
1. Exactly where the sender is located on this engine
2. The mfg & possibly the mfg part #, or are these senders just generic.

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Subject: 1979 FC-35


Author:
Rae
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 30/ 08, 4:55pm

Hello!

Am I glad I found you.... Until two days ago, I wouldn't have given a Bird a second look and now that's all I want (I blame the cockpit). Being in Canada and not wanting to go through the hassle of importing from the US, I expected to search for my Bird for a long time. Then, I found a 1979 Wanderlodge located in Windsor, Ontario. The owner sent me the following specs:

1979 Blue Bird FC-35 Wanderlodge motorhome with 210 hp Cat 3208 diesel, 4-speed Allison automatic transmission, King cruise control, Telma electromagnetic drive-line retarder, 12.5 kw diesel generator. EXTERIOR: brown over cream base, 20 ft. Zip Dee curb-side awning, street-side window awnings for living room and bedroom, 2 docking lights per side. INTERIOR: dark wood-grain laminate cabinetry, cream quilted vinyl ceiling and walls, light oak laminate flooring, all furniture re-upholstered, new curtains and mini-blinds. LIVING ROOM: twin fabric sleeper sofas, overhead storage cabinets, storage cabinets adjacent to sofas, half high closet/pantry/TV stand with hook-ups for antenna and cable TV. BATHROOM: private side bath with cultured marble sink/vanity top, Thetford Aqua-Magic toilet, fibreglas shower stall, linoleum floor. KITCHEN: laminate countertop and stove cover, stainless steel double sink with separate drinking water spigot, food center, Dometic 2-door 110V/propane automatic refrigerator with wood-grain door panels, 110V ice maker, 4 burner propane cook-top and oven, microwave oven, half-height slide-out can pantry, cushioned dinette booth. BEDROOM: rear side bed (street-side), vanity, stool, and drawers (curb side), carpeting, overhead storage cabinets (sides & rear), under-bed storage drawer, TV connection, accordion privacy door, 2 full-length closets, 1 half-length closet. GENERAL: this coach has most Blue Bird options – 3 roof A/C’s, 3 propane furnaces, 110V electric heater in bathroom, power vents in bath and kitchen, indirect lighting and miniature spots throughout, 3 station intercom system, central vacuum (new motor), double-cartridge water purifier under kitchen sink, HWH leveling jacks, roof storage pod, spot light, air horns, new batteries, new front tires, spare tire, plus 3 vinyl wheel covers and an entire coach cover.

Does this sound like a Bird that would be worth driving 18 hours (round trip) to see? What questions could I ask the current owner prior to committing to a viewing?

He sent some pictures, but they don't really tell me that much, other than to confirm that the '70's was seriously lacking in decorating taste. :-D They did, at least, install nice laminate flooring throughout the coach.

He's asking 29,500$. NADA puts the high-end value at 15,000$. Which is closer to reality?

Anyone know someone in the Windsor area (including Detroit, Michigan) whom I could reasonably trust to perform a mechanical inspection on this Bird?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Rae

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Subject: Fuel gauge wiring diagram


Author:
Dale Taylor
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 26/ 08, 1:35pm

I was wondering if someone knew where I could get a copy of a wiring diagram for my fuel gauge of my 78' Bluebird?

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Subject: very interested first time buyer (Canada)


Author:
Ray Hackney
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 19/ 08, 7:56pm

We are very interested in a 36to 40 foot pusher. we think a 1986 to 1990 is about what we are looking for.we were wondering if the resale on a bird this old would be a problem in say five years. We would like to find one that would not cost a pile of cash immediatley after purchase.

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[> Subject: Re: very interested first time buyer (Canada)


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 21/ 08, 8:16am

A 10 to 15 year old BB is probably depreciated down to its lower valve, its' value is based on condition, condition, condition, past maintenance and what upgrades have been already performed. This is a much better value than any other plastic Motorhome at a much later model year.

So, My "guess" is that it will be worth the same or less, given that 10 to $20K is invested to keep it safe, in good condition and up to speed mechanically, over the next 5 years. During this economy, this is a great time to shop.
Now, Do not forget this is great fun, adventure and recreation, Not much in return for your fun. Not an investment, just an expense for travel & more fun.
But no expense $$$ for air fare, rental car, motel, and lesser $$ spent in restaurants.
If an RV is in your future, do investigate a BlueBird Bus Motorhome, You will get quality, safety, and dependability, and peace of mind. Review the classified section of this Forum and the several other Wanderlodge forums, Vintage Bird Forum members are usually very contentious of repair, maintenance and condition.
It would be a good idea to attend a BB Rally, several are held each year through-out the States. As it is difficult to roam around to see feel and touch a Bird.

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Subject: need electrical help


Author:
Rick Moomaw
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 21/ 08, 8:13am

I have a 1973 FC 31 and have an electrical question. On our last outing in the fall I noticed the driving lights go dim every few seconds. I realized that a circuit breaker was tripping every few seconds due to a heavy load. I unhooked the breaker (in the compartment above the driver), and that solved the problem, but I can't find anything not working. Does anyone have a schematic showing what each breaker does? I cannot find it in the manuals that I have. Thanks for any help. Rick

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Subject: Pre-Purchase Inspection - 1982 M35 Wanderlodge


Author:
Bob Tenges (Apprehesive)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 16/ 08, 5:02am

I am considering the purchase of a vintage 1982 Bluebird M35 Wanderlodge with a non-Turbo Cat diesel. I live in southeaster Wisconsin where the unit is located and need a reliable inspector to go over the chassis, drivetrain and all systems. Any recommendations? Thanks.

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[> Subject: Re: Pre-Purchase Inspection - 1982 M35 Wanderlodge


Author:
Mike Hohnstein
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 15/ 08, 7:25pm

Hi, Mike Hohnstein here. I'm very familiar with Wanderlodge and I'm willing to discuss your situation.
My contact number is 414 303 7079. I live in Germantown and presently own a restored 83FC and I have done extensive service and maintenence on various RVs for years. Call anytime if interested.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> [> Subject: Re: Pre-Purchase Inspection - 1982 M35 Wanderlodge


Author:
Bob Tenges
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 16/ 08, 5:02am

Thanks for your offer, Mike. I live in Mequon, not far away and I will give you a call.

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Subject: 534 Ford industrial engine


Author:
Mark
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 13/ 08, 7:16pm

There is a 77 BB in the For Sale section with a 534 Ford Ind Engine. Does anyone have any experience with these motors?

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[> Subject: Re: 534 Ford industrial engine


Author:
Mike Hohnstein
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 15/ 08, 7:17pm

Good old engine, but impossible to find parts for if any thing serious happens. There are those that will question this position, so I would investigate the availability of parts, in your area for such an engine. The industrials were available in 391,477 and 534. They are not the same as automotive and light truck FE type engines. More similar to what is referred to as a MEL, or Mercury, Edsel, Lincoln.
Had to try and find a pair of heads for a 534 TWENTY years ago, it was real tough then. I doubt it would be any easier today. The other thing is the lack of fuel efficiency, or lack of same. If the engine is tuned perfectly and the carb is working right, you might expect 5 mpg @ 55 mph. More than likely you will get 4. Ya gotta remember, this was a current engine when fuel was a little cheaper. Same era as the V-6 GMC truck engine, another strong runner, but hard on fuel consumption.

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Subject: Driving Lights


Author:
Hector Gomez (Happy)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 12/ 08, 10:31pm

I have a problem locating a replacement lens for my driving lights. The glass lens is shattered from highway debri. Hella is the make and I have a 1990 Silver Edition. Hope someone can give some info. where to purchase a replacement lens. I am also looking for a wiring diagram for my Bird. I have not had much luck with Bluebird in GA. I also am looking for an actuator for my Genset. My actuator is hit and miss. I have removed it a couple times to check it out. It pushes the genset out but sometimes can not pull the genset back in, the motor keeps running but nothing happens. A new one cost about $400.00. Thanks, Hector

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Subject: 82 Bluebird,( A Newcommer) Lots of Questions


Author:
Don Dempsey
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 12/ 08, 11:52am

Hey All,
Its me again with BB questions,if anyone can help.I GOT The Bird running Yahoo!!!! She aired right up as well.How can someone ever let these get to this point I will never undersatand.Question #1 Does anyone reside in the Delaware area that may be able to help me undersatand how all the workings are on a 1982 33 foot WL? #2 Does anyone know if this thing has a nutral saftey or a safety on the tranny.#3 When I attempt to place the ground wire,(from battery to frame ground on the front of bus&front of steering)it starts to arc as if somethings on,cant find anything on.See at this point it will not start with the key,Had to jump it the old way,(starter) to make sure it ran first. Now that I know it runs I will get on with what ever it needs. These things are first class. Any help would be wonderfull Thanks Don.D

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[> Subject: Re: 82 Bluebird,( A Newcommer) Lots of Questions


Author:
Bruce
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 08, 3:28pm

Don,

Check to see if on the right side of the dash panel, there may be a switch labeled "A/T." We went through this on a new to us '79 33' FC. Lot's of starting with a screwdriver against the starter terminals. Found out the hard way (paying people to figure this out for us) that there is a switch. Flip the switch up (toward the windshield). According to the manuals that came with Tom's "lodge," A/T stands for "anti-theft." The ignition switch is wired through that switch. Flip the switch down when arming the alarm system (something we haven't tried yet!).

Hope that helps and still applies to your '82,
Bruce (for Tom the owner)
'79 33' FC

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[> Subject: Re: 82 Bluebird,( A Newcommer) Lots of Questions


Author:
Ed Wimberley
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 12/ 08, 11:52am

Don
I own an 82/35PT with 6v92 Detroit it has a transmission neutral switch in the start circuit.
Send email or fax and I will send print of circuit if needed.
Ed

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Subject: HWH Leveling jack pump location? '79 33' FC


Author:
Bruce
[Edit]

Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 08, 1:09pm

Hello Group!

I'm working with a friend who recently purchased a '79 FC 33' Wanderlodge. This past weekend, we installed a brand new Norcold refrigerator to replace the old Dometic RM100 which had a blown cooling unit. Installing the refrigerator required some modifications to the cabinet opening and running a new wiring harness along the frame rail to the battery bank for 12 VDC. I also fabricated a new LP line to the refrigerator. Everything should work fine now except that we need to level the coach in order to test the refrigerator. Here's the problem:

When we attempted to level the coach, two of the four jacks did not deploy at all. One came down already partly extended and ended up jambed onto the pavement. The other one leaked hydraulic fluid all over the ground. I was able to disconnect the hydraulic fittings at the jack that was wedged on the ground and get it to retract. The lift piston is still extended.

It is clear that the HWH leveling system will need to be overhauled and serviced. The problem is that I can't find the pump and reservoir. I can hear it running but I can't find it. My biggest fear is that it is stowed above the waste tanks. We have nothing in the paper package we have found so far that tells us where BlueBird hid that pump. Any help in locating it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Bruce (for Tom, the owner)
'79 33' FC, Cat 2830

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Subject: Wanderlodge vs Tornado


Author:
Jerald Peterson
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 19/ 08, 7:30pm

I know that wise men say that one should abandon vehicles in case of a tornado. Has anyone ever been through a tornado in their Wanderlodge? Which would be better shelter, a 12 Ton Bird or a sturdy pole barn art studio? We have our 83FC35RB parked in front of our 30x50 Studio, and we live in Oklahoma. It is that time of year again.

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Subject: Paint Job


Author:
Steve
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 22/ 05, 7:20pm

I just bought a 1982 35' FC Bird. How do I find the right place to have the outside painted and have it done right. Also, what should I expect to pay for a really nice job? I live in West Palm Beach, FL. I will travel to have it done right. Thank You

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[> Subject: Re: Paint Job


Author:
PATRICIA SHANNON (HAPPY)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 18/ 08, 7:34am

SAGON RV CENTER IN JACKSON, GA HAS A PAINT AND BODY MAN THAT WORKED AT THE BLUE BIRD FACTORY IN FT. VALLEY FOR YEARS. HE HAS DONE WORK FOR ME AND HE DOES EXCELLENT WORK AND THE PRICE IS VERY RESONABLE. THE NUMBER IS 1-800-433-6626 AND HIS NAME IS MIKE HARRIS.

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Subject: Headlight lens cover '01 LXI


Author:
Mike Shulamn
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 17/ 08, 4:32pm

Has anyone ever removed the outer plastic sheet that covers the headlights? Mine has yellowed and would like to remove them.
The coach is a 2001 LXI
Thank you kindly
Mike

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[> Subject: Re: Headlight lens cover '01 LXI


Author:
Rich D.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 15/ 08, 10:47am

Mike,

I removed mine ('99LXi) as they were yellowed and also a PITA to clean out the dirt that accumulates between the lens and the lights. They have been out for several years with no problems.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Headlight lens cover '01 LXI


Author:
Mike Shulman
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 15/ 08, 4:25pm

Might I ask, how did you remove the covers ?
Thank you for your response.
Mike

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Headlight lens cover '01 LXI


Author:
Rich D.
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 17/ 08, 8:11am

Remove the plexiglass wrap-around panels by unscrewing the 4 "T" nuts on each side. (You can see them on either side of the generator behind the "bumper area". Pry the clear plastic lens covers away from the plexiglass panel and re-install.

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: Headlight lens cover '01 LXI


Author:
Mike Shulman
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 17/ 08, 4:32pm

Thank you so much for your help. You have been most kind!
Mike

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Subject: How to list my bird for sale ?


Author:
Kenneth Kamrath
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 14/ 08, 11:55am

How do I access the for sale site to list my bird.
The list your bird at the end of the sale site dos'nt work.

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[> Subject: Re: How to list my bird for sale ?


Author:
ernie ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 14/ 08, 5:13pm

Ken, on the home page scroll down and click on where it says webmaster. That should fix you up. Ernie- 83PT40

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Subject: Used WL values


Author:
Alan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 13/ 08, 7:59am

Hello;

One question I have is when you are looking to purchase a used WL, where can you find a book value for some of the older ones or do you just keep your nose to the grind stone looking for clues as to what one is worth? Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Used WL values


Author:
Bob Gregg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 6/ 08, 10:52am








I looked up my 86 40 last month in NADA on the web.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Used WL values


Author:
Alan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 27/ 08, 8:00am

Thank you for your help, I will check NADA for sure

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[> Subject: Re: Used WL values


Author:
Don McHenry
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 13/ 08, 7:59am

I'm on my 3rd used Bird. Call a Dealer for Blue Birds and ask them what they would charge for a certain year, type, etc. Their price will probably be the highest. Next find out what they would give you on trade in for that model. A fair price would be in-between depending on the condition of the coach you are interested in. Sometimes owners will price high expecting to have to lower the price during dealing. Sometimes their coach is truly superior due to maintenance and re-decorating.

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Subject: 90 SP Air system


Author:
Donald McHenry
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 13/ 08, 7:31am

Bought a 90SP from a previous owner last spring. No books except a water stained owner's manual. It's parked in our stone driveway and won't air-up. Hard to get under and search for problem. We need a contact that can help us find out how the air system is laid out on this model.

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[> Subject: Re: 90 SP Air system


Author:
ernie ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 12/ 08, 6:41am

Donald, have you flipped the suspension dump switches? Also- if you hear air excaping when the coach first starts up, then you might have an air governor that is faulty.
Ernie- 83PT40 in Montana

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[> [> Subject: Re: 90 SP Air system


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 12/ 08, 8:29pm

Thanks will attempt. I will get back to you with results
Don

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[> Subject: Re: 90 SP Air system


Author:
Robert Glover
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 12/ 08, 9:52am

The easiest way to locate any leaks is to do the following...

Turn your engine off so you can HEAR any leaks.

Connect a good shop air compressor to the port in the rear engine compartment. In my 91 SP36, the port is located on the right side, right next to the power steering container.

With your shop air compressor running, does your coach air up? If not, listen for leaks. If the coach DOES air up, the problem is probably your engine compressor or governor.

Hopefully, it is a minor leak somewhere that is easily corrected.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 90 SP Air system


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 12/ 08, 8:32pm

Thanks Rober will attempt these and let you know how I made out. Thanks again Don

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[> [> Subject: Re: 90 SP Air system


Author:
Don McHenry
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 13/ 08, 7:26am

You're helping 2 Dons! The other guy said thanks and so do we. Will try your suggestions.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 90 SP Air system


Author:
Don McHenry
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 13/ 08, 7:31am

Can you tell us where the air tanks are located?

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Subject: Bluebird


Author:
Don
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 12/ 08, 12:55pm

Hey all,
After a long long long time looking have found and purchased my dream blue bird.(one that needs lots of attention but could buy in my price range) #1 can anyone tell me how you can get the gen.set to slide out without air.#2 same thing with the steps. #3 does anyone know of a good place to purchase,(buy) air bags. See this bird sat for a long time after purchased and was used like a cabin. I new this and am well awere of all that is needed or can be needed. i look at this as being better to restore then a hot rod and when done you have somthing more. The bird has a 3208 cat none turbo 73000 miles 35 ft. diesel koler. At this point Im not sure if it is going to need air bags but am starting to gather info. Thanks for your help Don

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[> Subject: Re: Bluebird


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 13/ 08, 4:35am

Try this link, They seem to have good prices and the best web site for finding the part numbers and descriptions.

http://www.truckspring.com/indentification-tips_1000.html

The air bag number should be in your blue box or on the air bag.,

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Subject: max feul preasure light on


Author:
Gene Mehr
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 7/ 08, 9:37pm

Have 82 fc 3208 na had tranny sevice done and tested looked like machanech ran coach hard on test drive. when i picked it up the max fuel light was on, replaced filters no change. looked for loose wire on sending unit no luck. What does this lite mean? cant find info in any of my books. Thanks Gene

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[> Subject: Re: max feul preasure light on


Author:
ernie
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 7/ 08, 5:24pm

Gene, that lite tells you that the fuel is maxed out. It is just a Bluebird add-on and does not affect your performance. My FC worked sometimes, my PT does not work. I'm more concerned about the Racor gauge going into yellow, then red. Thats when you need to change your filters. Someone must have messed with one of the zillion wires when they were working on your coach. Ernie

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[> [> Subject: Re: max feul preasure light on


Author:
Gene Mehr
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 7/ 08, 9:26pm


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[> [> [> Subject: Re: max feul preasure light on


Author:
Gene Mehr
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 7/ 08, 9:37pm

Thankyou were is that wire located and i did notice today that the last owner removed the racore filter and never replaced it. I have a new one know that i will put in. Racore gage has always been zero. Is that bad? THANKS

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Subject: 91 Wonderlodge SP36 need parts


Author:
Oliden Ortiz
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 6/ 08, 6:32am

Hi, i just bought a 91 Wonderlodge SP36, my first RV I love it, i don't know anything about this. Where can i find parts & accesories for it? Miami 305-335-5740 Oliden Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: 91 Wonderlodge SP36 need parts


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 13/ 08, 10:49am

Wanderlodge is now owned by BB Coachworks, Fort VAlley Ga. still has parts and tech support. 478-825-0330
All RV parts are available and most chassis, air, brakes etc. are truck/bus parts, all easily available at truck part suppliers and NAPA etc.

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[> Subject: Re: 91 Wonderlodge SP36 need parts


Author:
Stephen
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 6/ 08, 6:32am

Dupree Products also has Wanderlodge Parts

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Subject: Air Dump Valve Repair


Author:
Lance Crowley
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 3/ 08, 7:38am

I've got a leaky air cylinder on my dump valves for my '93 WB. Talked to Earl at BB and they want to sell me the whole valve and air cylinder assembly for ~$400.

There is an old post by a Randy Dupree talking about his replacement, tried the number listed and it's been disconnected.

Does anyone have any ideas on a fix/repair?

Lance

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[> Subject: Re: Air Dump Valve Repair


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 4/ 08, 6:00am

Call this number 905-328-0162 between 8:00 and 4:00 CST....it's the number to dupree products

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Subject: Temperature Guage Readings


Author:
Leroy A. Eckert
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 28/ 08, 1:00pm

1990 Wanderlodge WB 40

On a recent trip we lost the alternator. It had a 135amp installed but the coach prints called for a 160amp unit. A 160amp unit was installed. Alternator works fine but the following guages have different readings than before. Nothing was changed or disturbed except the alternator itself.
before after
Engine water temp 190 170
Engine oil temp 230 210
Transmission oil temp170 125
Retarder temp 230 210

I haven't been able to detetmine the problem. Sounds like a common ground, yet no other wires were disturbed.

Thanks, Leroy Eckert

1990 Wanderlodge WB 40

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[> Subject: Re: Temperature Guage Readings


Author:
Harvey Lawrence
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 29/ 05, 5:38pm

I wonder if you knew the voltage registering on you dash volt meter at 1850 RPM with the old alternator and if it is lower with the new alternator?? It sound like the new alternator voltage regulator might not be set as high as the old one and therefor might show in your gauge readings. Another thought is that if you have several batteries and your 130 amp alternator is trying to do the job charging them that the 160 did you might have a load heavy enough to drop charging volts a little. Just a guess
Harv

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[> [> Subject: Re: Temperature Guage Readings


Author:
Leroy A. Eckert
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 3/ 05, 4:06pm

Thank you sir for your reply.
I am pulling my hair out on this deal. Voltage readings have remained the same at the dash guage about 14v. 50 amps on the output. I have gone to checking voltage at all of the subject guages and all are within millivoltes of each other. I ran a seperate ground from the house batteries direct to each guage with no change.(ie: Looking for a faulty ground) This was done with the subject components hot.
I did read temperatures at the engine thermostat with a heat gun and it registered 168 on both thermostats. The next time I run it I will take heat gun readings at the retarder, transmittion pan, and engine oil pan. I have checked grounds and have found nothing haywire. I have contacted Bluebird without success. The only thing that I have not tried is to change the ground cable on the subject alternator. I do not know why, desparation maybe, but I will change it tomorrow. To add to this mystery, it was very cool last evening. I turned on the Primis systems, both of them, nothing! They have been working perfectly. These systems have new pumps and have been recently serviced.

Frankly, I do not have a clue. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks so much.

Leroy A. Eckert
1990 WB 40

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[> [> Subject: Re: Temperature Guage Readings


Author:
Leroy A. Eckert
[Edit]

Date Posted: 04/ 25/ 05, 2:30pm

Thanks for your previous reply. The guages started working after I changed the ground wire on the #1 alternator. I still do not understand why, but thought I would pass it along.


thanks again,
Leroy Eckert
Niceville, FL.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Temperature Guage Readings


Author:
Gene Romo (interesteing)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 28/ 08, 1:00pm

My late great uncle August always said "Always check your grounds first" "90% of the time your problem lies there."
His words have proved true more times than I can remember.
just a note to remember.
Gene & karen Romo
Oxford, NC.
www.jerseytomatas.blogspot.com

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Subject: 2 Cycle Diesel Engines


Author:
Bob Oats (Wondering)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 24/ 08, 7:04am

I am looking into a purchase of a 86 Bird with a Detroit diesel which is 2 cycle. Anything to be aware of on the 2 cycles?

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[> Subject: Re: 2 Cycle Diesel Engines


Author:
ernie ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 22/ 08, 5:50am

The 2 strokes have been around forever. The parts are readily available. Use straight 40 weight oil- no blends. Where is the coach located? One of us could check it out for you. Ralph Fullenwider does PDI's on Bluebirds. Ernie-83PT40- 6v92 Detroit, 2 stroke

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[> [> Subject: Re: 2 Cycle Diesel Engines


Author:
Bob Oats
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 24/ 08, 7:04am

Thanks. I am going to see the rig soon. Thanks for the offer.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]


Subject: FC Noise


Author:
Steve C
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 13/ 08, 6:05am

I am considering purchasing a 1988 FC diesel and was wondering about the possible noise up front while going down the road. Anyone have any experience? Are diesels located in the front harder to work on than a pusher?

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[> Subject: Re: FC Noise


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 13/ 08, 11:00am

88/89 FC's are last years produced, Late model FC's are a bargain, 300 HP turbo, 5 speed w/trans retarder, 12R225 tires, queen walk around bed. better steering, Imron paint, and more. Plus 7 to 8 MPG, some claim more. Normal conversation is easily possible, it has better insulation and the turbo and remote under the front bumper air filter helps quiet the diesel. It is good to be able to hear the engine drone. Still 35 ft fits into most State and National Parks.
Front accessability is a little difficult, 30 to 45 minutes, (after the first time of learning), to open the grill. But this is not often necessary.
Bill 88 FC owner

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Subject: NADA book prices versus asking prices


Author:
Dan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 8/ 08, 3:02pm

Hello. I have been looking at the Wanderlodge for a while. One thing I noticed, was the huge difference in the asking prices on this website and others like the bird connection, and the average retail prices listed in NADA, anyone have any opinions or theories as to why this is so? Bluebird owners know their stuff, So I can't think of a better group to pose this question to. Cheers.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: NADA book prices versus asking prices


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 6/ 08, 3:36pm

Dan, perhaps the classifieds on this site are more realistically priced as there is no fee for this service. Ernie

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[> Subject: Re: NADA book prices versus asking prices


Author:
Dean
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 7/ 08, 7:21am

I too have been comparing prices on NADA and have found their prices drastically lower than what is listed on this site and other FSBO Bluebirds. Anyone have input on what is realistic pricing?

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> [> Subject: Re: NADA book prices versus asking prices


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 03/ 8/ 08, 3:02pm

It is very difficult to put a price on a coach and then compare it to another coach. All these coaches were manufactured to owners specs. They aren't cookie cutter mass productions models, for sure. If anyone has a coach they are interested in, let us know. Perhaps we can check it out for you.

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Subject: wanted


Author:
Marion Flemming
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 26/ 08, 7:17am

I'm looking for and owners manual for a 32ft 1973 Bluebird bus conversion 390 Ford engine
If anyone has one or knows where to find one please contact me. Thank you

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]


Subject: LX vs LXI


Author:
Greg Haag
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 25/ 08, 5:48am

I am looking to purchase a 1998-2000 LX or LXI and was trying to find out the pro's and cons of the 450-500 cummins vs the Detroit 60. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg

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Subject: FC Operators Manaul


Author:
Doug Doyle
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 08, 10:12am


[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: FC Operators Manaul


Author:
Doug Doyle
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 12/ 08, 2:11pm

I have and Operator's Manual for a FC if anyone is interested in it. It is 6" X 9", 73 pages and looks brand new. Contact me at dougdoyle@charter.net and I will send it. First come/first served. Doug

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> [> Subject: Re: FC Operators Manaul


Author:
Doug Doyle
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 13/ 08, 11:02am

The manual has been given away to Bill Pape FC88-FL. Doug 83PT40 Oregon

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[> [> Subject: Re: FC Operators Manaul


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 08, 10:12am

Thank you Doug Doyle for sending me the operator's manual for the Forward Control BB.
Possibly I can return a favor someday.
Thanks Again, Bill

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]


Subject: Newbie Questions


Author:
Lizzy B (Question?)
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 08, 4:37am

My family and I are looking to purchase an older/Wonderlodge - as beginners...we have many questions.
I have found a seller that seems very honest - but still have questions for a third party. Help!

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Newbie Questions


Author:
ernie ekberg
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 22/ 08, 2:47pm

Lizzy- ask away. Ernie

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: Newbie Questions


Author:
Bill
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 08, 4:37am

Lizzy,

What year? What model?? Where are you and the Bird located?? Someone may know this Bird. It may be located near a Forum member, Many Bird owners volunteer their time for a first pass look or there are several very qualified Bird Experts that will charge an inspection fee.

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]


Subject: New Wanderlodge owner


Author:
Robert Glover
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 23/ 08, 8:39pm

Hello to all. I am now the proud owner of a 1991 SP36. While this is my first coach, I am quite familier with Blue Birds, because my parents have owned a few in the past.

So, now I get to enjoy our frigid Michigan winter fixing minor issues, updating features on the coach, and getting her ready for spring!

One question: Does anyone have an original "Blue Bird clock" they'd be willing to sell?

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> Subject: Re: New Wanderlodge owner


Author:
Marty Morgan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 08, 8:35am

Hi Robert, I too was looking for a Bluebird clock, but found them to be very rare. The man, I believe his name was Mr. Bradshaw, that made the clocks for Bluebird, died some years ago. He was a bluebird factory worker that made the clocks for bluebird on his own time. I contacted the factory and was able to obtain all of the original pictures, patterns and dimensions for the clock and have since found a clock company that sells the movement and letters. The clock spelled WANDERLODGE counterclockwise with the old style bluebird emblem for the 12. They are made from 1 1/2" thick mahogony wood and the bird looks to the right. I am going to make myself a clock, I would be willing to make you one as well. If you are interested, let me know, Take care, Marty

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[> [> Subject: Re: New Wanderlodge owner


Author:
Marty Morgan
[Edit]

Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 08, 8:40am

Above message should state "Bird looks to the LEFT". Thanks

[ Post a Reply to This Message ]
[> [> Subject: Re: New Wanderlodge owner


Author:
Richard Tapp
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 23/ 08, 8:39pm

I might be intrested in a replacement clock what is involved? Cost, shipping, timeframe?

Thanks,

Richard

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Subject: ????


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 22/ 08, 4:18am

Where did all the messages go?

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[> Subject: Re: ????


Author:
Dave Ward
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 21/ 08, 5:58pm

Go to the top right of the page and click on Archive #1.

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[> [> Subject: Re: ????


Author:
Sam
[Edit]

Date Posted: 02/ 22/ 08, 4:18am

Thanks Dave,You would think that when they archive all the on going message pages someone would explain that. oh well no big deal.

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