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Subject: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 11/ 9/ 07, 4:51am

We,re the new owners of a 1983 PT35BB with a DD6V92T diesel 160Miles and runs great. After a couple trips the BB is in storage and I've been running the Bird weekly to keep charged up and ready to go. Yesteday the motor cranked up and run great, but there was was about 1/2 gal of black oil and water that come out of a round tank under the engine where several hoses run from the engine.
This is my first BB and exsperance with DD6V92T, but this don't seem normal, but tank appears to be designed to collect discharges.

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[> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 12/ 3/ 06, 10:33am

It appears you have noticed a discharge from the air dryer. Based on the discharge you describe it is vitally important you have the airdryer serviced quickly. In all likelihood your dryer is a Bendix Model AD-2. Since a new dryer can be purchased for near the cost of a professional service, I suddest you consider replacing the existing unit with a Bendix AD-9 model which has a screw on canister to ease future servicing.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 12/ 3/ 06, 1:11pm

Thank you for the info.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 12/ 3/ 06, 4:06pm

That might be also, your spitter tube accumulation tank. Mine is located close to the rear bumper. Ernie- 83PT40

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 12/ 3/ 06, 6:11pm

Is it normal for oil and water to come out of the tank with the plug missing.There is not any treads in the hold so I assumed it was to be left open since the waterand oil seems to be under a little pressure like spitting. There was about a 1/2 gal of water and oil came out of the tank and then it stopped. Check oil level which was OK, the water was clear so I assume it was condensation for some where. The engine starts and runs great, but I dont like the engine spitting out the oil.

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[> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 12/ 15/ 06, 5:54pm

What tank are you talking about? If oil and water are discharged together it sure sounds like the air dryer. Its very purpose is to remove those items from the pneumatic system. I cannot stress too greately the need to service this unit. I have never heard of a half gallon of oil and water being discharges but if the dryer is failing and you end up with oil and water in your air brakes plus all you pressure guages, air horns, water purge, step slide, etc there likely isn't enough money around to make you happy again.

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[> [> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 12/ 16/ 06, 2:37am

I think the 2 hoses going to the tank is from the air box on the 1982 DD 6VT92 to the spitter tank. The service manual shows a pressure releave valve on the hoses from the engine air boxes, but I've not been able to locate them. The oil is black so I assume it is from the engine. The water is clear so I would assme it is condensation. I did read small amounts of water and oil may come from the air box on the 82 DD 6VT82 engines. The engine runs great and the oil level has not changed, but I'm concerned about the oil discharge. The last time I run the engine only a small amount of black oil came out when I frist started the engine.

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[> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 12/ 23/ 06, 9:11am

I noticed you are running the engine every week to keep the coach charged and ready to go. Unless you are prepared to drive your coach about 40 miles you should not start the engine. Weekly start ups will only add water to the engine that will not be evaporated by engine heat produced by an hour's drive. It is far better to let a diesel engine sit that start it without an extended drive. So far as keeping your coach charged, you should leave that up to the battery chargers.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 12/ 24/ 06, 7:30pm

Thanks for the advice, I noticed the spitter tank on the bottom has what appears to be some type of removeable bushing that extends up into the tank about 2". It looks like it is designed to be removed to drain any oil or water in the tank below the 2". I plan to remove the bushing to determine if the oil and water is below the bushing and has accumulated over time above the 2".

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[> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Rich Expert Diesel
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Date Posted: 03/ 26/ 07, 3:04am

That is a air box discharge collector. It should be serviced (emptied) at each oil change. It keeps air box discharge from hitting ground. When it's full is will spill over. If it fills up to quikly you should have engine checked.
Richard

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[> Subject: Re: 1982 DD 6V92T


Author:
Rich - Expert Diesel
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Date Posted: 11/ 9/ 07, 4:51am

That tank is a air box discharge tank. It collects condensed
fuel vapors and water ( anytime you compress air you will get some water from the supercharger) The tank is over full.
You should service it a every oil change. The tank is to keep air box discharge from dripping on ground. Yours is over full. It;s a good system, but only if you know about it.
Rich

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Subject: Burning a few quarts of oil per 1500 miles


Author:
Mike
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Date Posted: 11/ 9/ 07, 4:42am

I've just seen a beautiful 35 ft. 1981 Blue Bird Wanderlodge FC and I'm thinking about buying it. It looks like it's in great shape (although I haven't seen it in person) but my only concern is that it burns a few quarts of oil every 1500 miles. According to the owner, it doesn't leak any oil though. Is this something common or something to be concerned with? It has about 160k miles without a rebuild on a 208 CAT Diesel FC (forward control) engine, 210 HP.

Any advice would be great!

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[> Subject: Re: Burning a few quarts of oil per 1500 miles


Author:
Harold Prescott
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Date Posted: 05/ 13/ 07, 7:49am

According to Caterpiller, 2000 miles to a gallon of oil is verging on excessive oil useage.

Harold Prescott
'85 FC35
Northern California

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[> Subject: Re: Burning a few quarts of oil per 1500 miles


Author:
Dave Pujals
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Date Posted: 05/ 30/ 07, 9:43pm

It is not uncommon to consume oil in a CAT 3208 NA or Turbo. Recently I switched from Shell Rotella to Mobil Delvac 1300 Super. In this process I noticed that the engine smokes considerable less and I am consuming far less oil. I own a 1982 FC with a CAT 3208 210HP NA (Naturally Aspirated) engine. I think that keeping the oil real fresh is vital... How many miles are on the engine? and has it ever had a the rings serviced? what oil is being used?... Back in the early 80's diesel had far more sulfur in the fuel and that pitted and ate rings and sleeves, this is why when you notice much smoke, a loss in power as well as large oil consumption -- it's usually ring and/or sleeve time...

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[> Subject: Re: Burning a few quarts of oil per 1500 miles


Author:
Rich - Expert Diesel
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Date Posted: 11/ 9/ 07, 4:42am

I remanufacture lots of these engines. They are parent bore engines (no clyinder liners). Your piston to wall clearance is excessive. Block must be bored for over size pistons. While you sre at is install a roller cam and roller lifters
reduces friction and increases power.
Rich

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Subject: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Henry Claeys
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Date Posted: 10/ 27/ 07, 4:17am

(1) Are there any middle class, perhaps lower middle class, bird owners out there that can afford to maitain a Bluebird? If so, how do you do it? (2) As I approach a final decision on the purchase of a 1979 F35, I am envisioning the practical everyday problems of finding, I mean physically locating without an act of God, service at reasonable prices. For example, when it's time for an oil change and lube, can I go to your typical oil change place, i.e., Walmart or GreaseMonkey, or do I have to locate a an 18 wheeler service center and pay a minimum $100.00 "howdy" charge. I imagine that most of those truck places deal primarily with companies that are in business and are used to paying top dollar for "service now." I, on the other hand, 'am not a corporation and can't afford to be shelling out $500.00 here and there for simple service. (4) Another example: A "simple flat tire." The bird doesn't carry a spare so what to do if you get a flat out in the Boonies, or anywhere. It looks to me like I could be out hundreds just to fix a flat! (5) Any input appreciated...Henry at claeys@rgv.net

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[> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
L Longcrier
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Date Posted: 07/ 3/ 03, 11:21am

I would not trust just any grease Monky to change My oil, Most of the cut rate places are not equipped to do the job correctly. If there is a Speedco near you I think you will find that they have all the filters needed and the experteese required to do the job. otherwise it is a case of doing the job yourself. Filters can be obtained from NAPA! My last change included all filters, checking the transmission fluid, changing all three fuel filters, the Air filter, the transmission filter, and checking the rear end, total lube of all chasis points. My bill was 139.00 dollars. Due to this being a total service there was no charge for the Air filter. (usualy $66.00 from the local NAPA dealer.) The 3208T CAT uses 20 quarts of oil, so the total cost isn't too bad.

L. Longcrier
M1894@AOL.com

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[> [> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Henry Claeys
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Date Posted: 07/ 7/ 03, 1:21am

Dear L. Longcrier: I thank you for your response. For one, it shows me that there really are other bird owners who care enough to communicate and help out fellow bird owners. That makes me feel better as I face joining the vintage bird family. I like doing my own work but my bird doesn't have the owner's manual. Other than blindly searching, how am I going to find out where all filters and grease fittigs are?

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
L. Longcrier
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Date Posted: 07/ 11/ 03, 4:14pm

Filter numbers can be read off of the current filters. as for grease fittings they are located at the tie rod ends, and the king pin ends. don't forget to check the differential oil level. The front wheel bearings are under your front hub caps. pull the rubber plug and check for fluid level. My bird is a 1984FC, and I don't know if my manual's will apply to your unit. Contact Me at M1894@AOL.com if a copy would do you. Let me know what sections you need, and I can make you a copy.


L.Longcrier

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[> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Steve Anderson
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Date Posted: 07/ 5/ 03, 9:48am

Henry, The Blue Bird Wanderlodges are/were high end RV's. they were made for folks who had their mainteance and repairs done by factory or authorized repair centers, hang the cost, it just wasn't a factor. Now 25 years later these coaches are becoming affordable to those of us who like the retro styling and the feel of the high quality coach that they are. Wanderlodge coaches are built with high quality materials and systems such as furnaces, air-conditioners, water systems, air& hydralic systems, and electronics. These systems are generally very reliable and trouble free, but when repairs are required, having the coaches repaired or worked on by profesionals is expensive. Most owners of "Vintage Birds" are mechanically capable and like to make most repairs, or do most maintenance themselves. My suggestion to you, is to seriously consider your financial capabilities to maintain, repair, one of these coaches before you buy. If the cost of a $100 oil change is troubling and you do not feel capable of, or willing to perform this minor maintenance yourself a 79 BB is not for you in my opinion.
One should consider that in the realm of motorhomes, BB's are very high on the quality list. There are not many 1979 "Stick and Staple" motorhomes out there still on the road. There are even fewer that are even worth owning, but that aside, ANY motorhome is going to have maintenance costs. If you have to have the oil changed for your BB you will also have to have it changed in your Wienerbego. Furnaces, electrical systems, water systems, electronics are more likely to fail in less expensive mh's simply because of the quality of the original components. These items will fail on less expensive coaches too and you will still have to "hire" out repairs. In my mind, BB's, even older ones are a better buy for the same money in coach ownership, but a newby to vintage birds should have a clear vision what he is getting into. Most experinced bird owners will give the advice to new bird buyers: no matter what bird you are considering you should set aside a cash reserve of $10,000 for maintenance, repair, and upgrades. I believe that that is a realistic figure, especially for purchase of a 79 Bird.

Just some ramblings from one who has been there.

Steve Anderson
79 FC 35
Poulsbo, Wa.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Henry Claeys
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Date Posted: 07/ 7/ 03, 1:25am

Dear Steve: Does it make any difference, when deciding how much to estimate for repairs/remodeling, if I told you that the seller just spent $20,000.00 having a new engine put in, along with having the transmission, engine A/C, and Kohler 12.5 KW generator rebuilt?

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[> [> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Henry Claeys
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Date Posted: 07/ 7/ 03, 1:29am

Dear Steve: Does it make any difference, when deciding how much to estimate for repairs/remodeling, if I told you that the seller just spent $20,000.00 having a new engine put in, along with having the transmission, engine A/C, and Kohler 12.5 KW generator rebuilt?

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[> [> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Henry Claeys
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Date Posted: 07/ 7/ 03, 1:44am

This is my second response to your long, but excellent, message. Although I am not rich, it is within my means and ability to perform "minor" repairs, oil changes, or spending $300 for an oil/lube job at a big truck stop. What really is going on with me is that I'm comparing travel trailer owenership with bird ownership. As long as I stay with a trailer that's around 32 feet long, I can pull it with a 3/4 ton van or pick up. Maintenance on the tow vehicle is reasonable, and, after all, the tow vehicle can be replaced, and the trailer has few parts to go wrong. Not only is this my first bird purchase, but it's my first crossing over to the motorhome world. I guess I'm out of my environment and accordingly nervous. Hopefully I'll hear from you again, but if I don't, I really want to thank you for your lenthy reply because I sense that it is right on point!

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[> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Bill Schreurs
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Date Posted: 10/ 11/ 07, 4:50pm

Henry:
I sometimes come here and peruse what this forum has to say.
There are three other forums related to BB Wanderlodges, I do not know if you know of them. They are in the yahoo groups Wanderlodge, WanderlodgeForum and FC-Wanderlodge.

I have found a decent shop to help me with all of my work, not only that he lets me help the mechanic, I have learned lots as well as having a big shop to work out of.

And yes, there are a few middle to lower class people who own these lovely pieces of machinery, albeit that they are the older ones

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[> Subject: Re: Reasonable Service Places/Prices


Author:
Eddie Ray
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Date Posted: 10/ 27/ 07, 4:17am

I seem to have been in your same situation at one time, and with a lot of self teaching here is what I have found out... keep in mind I do not know your physcial location, but here is what I did in South Florida.

I started about 2 years ago wanting an RV... it took some convincing my wife, but now that we are into it she had rather be on the bus that to be at home.

We started with a Holiday Rambler 36' with 4 slides... after one trip to New Mexico we decided we wanted a bigger and heavier coach and we landed in a '98 Wanderlodge with NO slides.

Service and maintaince was a great concern of mine also, and I tried several avenues... some were ok, some were not... then I joined a local chapter of the FMCA and the information poured in from other members... I now have found a repair facility that is GOOD, and that was from input from the members.

As for the tire, get a road side service program... Good Sam has a good one in my opinion... they have come to me for flat tires, (and those tires had just lost air) and once for a jump start... I hope this is of some help... if you want more about what we did I will be more than happy to answer any questions you might have.

Good Luck
ER

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Subject: interior fluorescent lights


Author:
Clarence Roy
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Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 07, 4:46am

I have a 1984 wonderlodge,35'F.T.,I am looking for new lighting fixtures or can I replace blasts,any info will be appreciated

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[> Subject: Re: interior fluorescent lights


Author:
ernie
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Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 07, 4:46am

Stephen Birtles has those plus many other parts. Email him at cape0001@hotmail.com

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Subject: painting


Author:
Roland Condon
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Date Posted: 10/ 20/ 07, 5:19pm

I'm looking for information on the paint shop in Algodones, Mexico; name, phone no., or email.
Thanks

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Subject: 3176 engine


Author:
Matt
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Date Posted: 10/ 17/ 07, 7:49am

I have a Cat challenger 75c listed at 330hp and on the valve cover it has a peak hp of 425 hp. Does anyone know how I could get that turned up. Cat won't because it is certified with the EPA but said it can be done

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[> Subject: Re: 3176 engine


Author:
Bob Loomas
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Date Posted: 10/ 17/ 07, 7:49am

larger injectors larger turbo larger radiator.maybe larger
fuel pump.Good luck

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Subject: fuse box location on 1969 chevy truckkathie


Author:
kathie sconiers
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Date Posted: 10/ 9/ 07, 3:39pm

I NEED TO KNOW WHERE THE FUSE BOX IS LOCATED ON A 1969 CUSTOM 10 CHEVY TRUCK?I ALSO NEED THE WIRING CODES.

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[> Subject: Re: fuse box location on 1969 chevy truckkathie


Author:
pat
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Date Posted: 10/ 9/ 07, 3:39pm

Above the parking brake pedal. You can't be looking very hard if you didn't see it. You can buy a wiring diagram from hundreds of sources on the web.

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Subject: 1978 chevy 350 motor


Author:
DENNIS
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Date Posted: 10/ 9/ 07, 3:36pm

What happen to my 1978 chevy 350 motor to cause it to vibrate when you increase the throttle..
It will idle fine until you increase the speed speed in the engine than it starts to vibrate

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[> Subject: Re: 1978 chevy 350 motor


Author:
Rich
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Date Posted: 10/ 2/ 07, 1:10pm

Possible rear main bearing wiped. Any oil leakage from rear of engine?

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[> Subject: Re: 1978 chevy 350 motor


Author:
pat
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Date Posted: 10/ 9/ 07, 3:36pm

Check the fan blades on the cooling fan for cracks. If you don't see any take the fan off and reinstall the pulley with the belts on. If the vibration is still their the flexplate(flywheel) is probably cracked.

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Subject: 83 PT40 Door latch


Author:
Marc Kerlikowske
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Date Posted: 10/ 8/ 07, 3:25pm

Anyone know of a source for the hall closet door latch in a 83 PT 40? Holland motorhomes and bluebird are out of stock.

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[> Subject: Re: 83 PT40 Door latch


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 10/ 7/ 07, 5:16am

those are called paddle latches and I believe Orr&Orr may have them. - Or West marine.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 83 PT40 Door latch


Author:
Marc Kerlikowske
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Date Posted: 10/ 8/ 07, 3:25pm

Do you have any contact info for either of those sources?

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Subject: breaker locations


Author:
Hank Parker (help)
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Date Posted: 10/ 6/ 07, 1:09pm

I have a 1991 Wondrlodge 40'. Seems some one was turning power off and own outside my barn. Problem is front half of my bus is dead, and I can't find any breakers other than in the bedroom panel. Can't even open generator, switch is also dead. Can generator be cranked out manually. All help appreciated. Thanks Hank

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Subject: Calebtlb


Author:
Tomzkd (Calebtlb)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 10/ 2/ 07, 3:26pm

http://aqqrebdfrfasb.host.com
desk3
[url=http://aqqsebdfrfasb.host.com]desk4[/url]
[link=http://aqqaebdfrfasb.host.com]desk6[/link]

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Subject: Shift rpms for first gear


Author:
Omar (confused)
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Date Posted: 10/ 1/ 07, 5:01pm

I am about to buy a 1980 bluebird with a cat 3208 and a allison 4 speed automatic tranny. At what rpms do they normally shift to second gear? It is shifting around 4000 rpms right now. Does that sound right???? Need help ASAP!

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[> Subject: Re: Shift rpms for first gear


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 10/ 1/ 07, 5:01pm

Your tach may have a loose wire. Does the coach sound like it is reving too high? Ernie

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Subject: radiator swing kits


Author:
larry thoreen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 09/ 21/ 07, 2:00pm

I have a 83fcsb,It like so many others is a work in progress. I have a couple of questions. First, are there any suppliers around the pacific northwest
that carry the radiator swing kits?. and secondly, who handles parts and service for the leveling jacks?
Thanks, Larry

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[> Subject: Re: radiator swing kits


Author:
steve seale
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 09/ 3/ 07, 5:54pm

If and when you find the kit, please let me know. I have already decided that if I have to adjust or change belts again; it will be easier without the radiator in the way. I do plan on runnning the tops at least yearly after I have seen the results. With all of the compression, it is easier to stand in the "hole" to get the leverage to run it over.
steve

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[> Subject: Re: radiator swing kits


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 09/ 21/ 07, 2:00pm

I would appreciate the address of anyone selling the swing radiator kits.

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Subject: Insulated 'birds ?


Author:
arvee chastain (smiling)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 09/ 11/ 07, 4:10pm

I am interested in full timing in a bird or bus. Anyone have any experience with WINTER weather in one of these ? I am in Northern Illinois.

Thanks !!

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[> Subject: Re: Insulated 'birds ?


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 09/ 11/ 07, 4:10pm

I have been in Montana since Feb 1. It is doable but you need to have all your freeze protection heaters operational and your pipes wrapped in heat tape. It also is good to underpin your coach. Ernie- hope I don't have to go thru that cold in Montana, again

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Subject: black holding tank


Author:
Jim Bryant
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Date Posted: 08/ 26/ 07, 5:49pm

I need information on where to purchase a black waste water holding tank for a 86-36 ft BB pusher side bath.
Thanks for any help. JIM

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[> Subject: Re: black holding tank


Author:
Bob Loomas
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Date Posted: 08/ 26/ 07, 9:50am

Jim you can contact this web site they can make you www.watertanks.com/calc.asp

Also you can search the bus converson site.

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[> [> Subject: Re: black holding tank


Author:
Bob
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Date Posted: 08/ 26/ 07, 5:49pm

Thanks for the info. Jim

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Subject: Muffler replacement


Author:
Hector Gomez
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Date Posted: 08/ 26/ 07, 4:52am

Just purchased 1990 PT needing many repairs. BB wants $1300 for muffler and a 6-week wait. Searched the net with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

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[> Subject: Re: Muffler replacement


Author:
Harold Prescott
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 19/ 07, 9:17am

What part of the country are you presently located?
Someone in your area may know of a good shop.

Just for starters, call around to the large truck dealers, and related repair shops in your area.

Harold
Northern California

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[> [> Subject: Re: Muffler replacement


Author:
El Barreal
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 19/ 07, 1:41pm

In El Paso, Texas. Have tried all truck places in this area and New Mexico, Dallas, Houston, San Antonio. Even Juarez in Mexico. Tried Nelson (make of current muffler. No luck so far. Thanks for you reply. Hector Gomez

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[> Subject: Re: Muffler replacement


Author:
bob lommas
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 23/ 07, 8:19am

Try this web site
http://www.unitedmuffler.com/

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[> Subject: Re: Muffler replacement


Author:
John Finn
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 26/ 07, 4:52am

Hector,

Check out this link from my web site. You can possibly do the same thing with your muffler, it is a lot less expensive.

http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/78850362

You may have to copy and paste it into your web browser.

John Finn
Finn's Inn Express
'82 35FCRB
BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
WELCOME TO THE "FINN'S INN EXPRESS" REMODELING ADVENTURE
TO VISIT, CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW
http://www.pbase.com/image/24977457

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Subject: WHAT'S HAPPENING AT BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE


Author:
John Finn
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 24/ 07, 6:11pm

Earlier this week on my way home from my two month summer trip, I stopped by the factory in Fort Valley to see if there was anyway that I could tour the factory, to actually document with photos, what was exactly going on there after the company was purchased by Complete Coach Works of Riverside, California.

At first I wasn't sure if this could happen, but after talking to Brenda and explaining to her what I wanted to do, she referred me to Allen Barbee, who after doing some checking, gave me the OK and invited me with my camera to go with him for a tour of the plant. You can go to the following link and click on it, or copy and paste it into your browser and it will take you to an album on my web site that is exclusively used for the tour of the plant and also includes some of my personal comments under some of the photos, plus "Blue Bird WANDERLODGE" also gave me an official statement to release on the album, that explains what they are doing right now.

If you get a chance to tour the facility, I think that you will be impressed with what is going on there, it is a positive change in my opinion.

Check out the link to the photo album here;

http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/84305982

To see more of the album, just click on the "NEXT" at the right to go to the next page.


JOHN FINN
1982 FC35RB BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
http://www.pbase.com/image/24977457

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Subject: coach manual for 1974 Bluebird Wanderlodge


Author:
Nadia Luna
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 17/ 07, 11:49pm

Would like to copy if possible or would buy. I have the engine manaul but would love to have all manuals

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Subject: fc dash air


Author:
bob maloney
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 16/ 07, 7:04am

on one of the message boards some posted wit6h pics how he
redid his air i can not find if anyone can tell me where it is would appreciate
thanks
bob maloney 87 fc {second wind} in ky

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[> Subject: Re: fc dash air


Author:
Steve Seale
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 16/ 07, 7:04am

I have recently replaced all of the hoses, etc on a '77 35fc and finally have it working well. Let me know your problems and I might can help.

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Subject: Wanted,


Author:
GAF
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 12/ 07, 7:32pm

I recently bought a 1985, 40' pusher and am looking for curbside folding table and chairs or couch between kitchen cabinet and passender chair. I'm located in San Fran. area.
Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Wanted,


Author:
don wallen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 12/ 07, 7:32pm

i have a couch that we removed from my pt40 1984 bird will take 100.00 bucks and you take care of shiping the upolistery is in good shape and i saved all the bords that held it in

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Subject: 84-86 Wiring Diagram - Dash to Chassis


Author:
W. Schreurs
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 6/ 07, 9:34am

Looking for 84-86 Wiring Diagram - Dash to Chassis.

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[> Subject: Re: 84-86 Wiring Diagram - Dash to Chassis


Author:
don wallen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 6/ 07, 9:34am

i have all the owners manuals that came with my 84 pt40 it has lots of wiring digrams if any would help you can email me at skeetbum@huges.net with address and i will mail

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Subject: floor safe


Author:
don wallen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 6/ 07, 9:27am

have a 1984 pt40 with a subway floor safe that is locked the dial turns but was wondering if there was a defalt coad that might get it open

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[> Subject: Re: floor safe


Author:
G. Frazer
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 27/ 07, 7:19pm

Hi
i have an 85PT40 and safe opened by turning knob a few turns one way or the other( I don't remember which way I went ), stop at 50 and go the other way till it opens. Ours had the key in outside of knob and I think it may be necessary to change combination. Someplace I read how to open them if comb. hasn't been changed, I think it was a while back in one of these forums but I don't know how to navigate forums yet. If you can't find it in forum or #50 dosn't work, I think it's in one of my books, let me know and I'll dig out books and see what I can find out. Please use my regular e-mail, I don't get here very often.
George Frazer
85PT40
No. Ca.

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[> [> Subject: Re: floor safe


Author:
don wallen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 6/ 07, 9:27am

mr g tryed both left and right from 50 and no results if you have time please look up in your book. i have tones of books with my rig but none on the safe

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Subject: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
ANITA
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 5/ 07, 3:56pm

WE HAVE A 82 WONDERLODGE THAT LIKES TO WANDER GOING DOWN THE HWY. WE HAVE TRIED SEVERAL THINGS AND CAN'T SEEM TO FIGURE IT OUT. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS OR IS THIS NORMAL FOR THE AGE OF THE COACH?
THANKS
ANITA

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[> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
ANITA
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 2/ 07, 2:29pm

SORRY I MEANT 83 WANDERLODGE.

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[> [> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
ernie ekberg
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 2/ 07, 3:07pm

How long have you had your coach? If just recently, you may be over correcting. You might have the king pins lubed and maybe your steering box needs attention. Ernie

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[> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 7/ 07, 5:42pm

Hi Anita
This is not normal. Could you tell me what you have done to date to fix the problem. Also l would need an idea of past front end repairs.
Ken

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[> [> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
Bill 83PT
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 28/ 07, 7:23pm

My 83 PT 36' 160K miles also wanders,but I assume it was the large steering wheel and me over correcting.

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[> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
Don
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 25/ 07, 2:43pm

Hello,

Make sure all the zerk fitting are lubed. It will have over 20 of them and many mechanics wont take the time to hunt for them. Not likely the only issue but it made a big difference on my old bus when I finaly got under it and lubed the other 20 or so fittings the lube shop missed...

Good luck, Don

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[> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
Bill
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 3/ 07, 4:05pm

Anita:
I have an 84, and I thought it was pretty good without the wandering, but I changed all the shocks and wow, that made a big difference.
With the worn shocks you would also get bounce in the coach.

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[> Subject: Re: BB IS WANDERING


Author:
BILL
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 5/ 07, 3:56pm

No it should not wonder. Could be as simple as tire pressure or adding grease to the king pins. Then check the tie rod ends, and the steering gear mounting bolts to the frame, ( they sometimes become loose). Or defective shocks, tires or steering alignment.

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Subject: AirRide suspension for '80 BB 33' coach


Author:
clay
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 2/ 07, 8:23pm

Im looking at a 1980 33' Wanderlodge...
I thought '80 was the year BB went to Air Ride suspension, but Im wrong....this coach has older suspension

Can you retrofit AirBags to a 1980 Wanderlodge???
from what I understand...airbags give a better ride?..
also ..there are no leveling jackes for the coach...
can these be retrofitted as well???
thanks for any advice....
Clay

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Subject: 74 Bluebird Wanderlodge engine conversion


Author:
Nadia Luna
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 29/ 07, 7:43pm

Does any one have an idea on how a 444 powerstroke engine will work replacing a 391 ford engine.

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Subject: Hydraulic Jacks


Author:
John Boring
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 25/ 07, 3:34pm

Howdy. The hydraulic jack system on my Class A motorhome (Holiday Rambler Endeavor - 1994) has quit working. The system is a manual one and when I turn it on the lights light up but nothing happens when I'm moving the levers. It worked just fine but then just quit on me. Is there a fuse located somewhere that I don't know about? The motor and oil reservoir look fine, no leakage. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help.

John

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Subject: turbo vs no turbo


Author:
Don Kukul
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 25/ 07, 2:37pm

I am in the process of purchasing either a 1982 FC35 or a 1983 FC33. The FC33 has a turbo and a engine retarder the FC35 does not. I am leaning towards the FC35 purchase but am concerned about the lack of the turbo and engine retarder. I am trying to find info regarding this problemI am having . THanks

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[> Subject: Re: turbo vs no turbo


Author:
Bill
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 8/ 07, 6:41am

I would always decide on condition, and repair/ maintenance information. OR keep looking.

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[> Subject: Re: turbo vs no turbo


Author:
Don
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 25/ 07, 2:37pm

Don,

By 1981 with the larger tanks the buses became quite heavy. The turbo 225hp or 250hp that the 1983 would have would be a nice plus for use and resale. At higher altitudes the turbo will readilly out pull the non-turbo 1982.

Regards, Don

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Subject: Towing Ford 250 Extended Van?


Author:
Jerald Peterson
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 29/ 07, 2:03pm

We have a 83FC35RB. The engine and transmission seem strong with 135,000 miles on them. I understand from forum messages that the bird can tow up to 10,000 lbs but will be slow on the hills. I have a 1997 Ford Econoline 250 extended van which we use to do the fine art shows. Loaded with display and paintings it weighs 7,500 lbs. I intend to tow it 4 down to Scottsdale for the Jan-Mar Expo 08 fine art show. Would be interested in any opinions, suggestions, and experiences others have to offer.
Jerald Peterson
www.jeraldpeterson.com

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[> Subject: Re: Towing Ford 250 Extended Van?


Author:
Sam
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 23/ 07, 5:39am

Jerald, I'm assuming you have not towed your Van with any other motorhome, so with that said here's what you need to know. I also have a 1983 FC 35' and tow a 2500 (3/4 ton)Suburban which weighs close to 7,000 lbs also. The Bluebird tows it just fine. You will experience the obvious, slow starts and slow uphill, after all, you are towing a lot of weight, but the BB will handle nicely, it will not be pushed around by your van, which happens when towing with a lighter motorhome. If the previous owners did not reconfigure the the Female plug on the BB then you will need to do this also or reconfigure the male plug on your wiring harness. Bluebird wired the female plug differently then what is standard today. Also you may experience dim lights on the tow vehicle. I had this problem and had someone do something inside the motorhome in the fuse panel. It might be a good idea to ask this question on this forum and then we all can find out how this is done. I'm sure someone out there who looks at these questions would like to answer this question. good luck.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Towing Ford 250 Extended Van?


Author:
Jerald Peterson
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 29/ 07, 2:03pm

Thanks Sam. I feel better. Do you use a "brake buddy" or similar brakeing devise in the Surburban. Is it necessary. I understand that it is requried in some States.
Jerald Peterson
83FC35RB

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Subject: Re: Travel-Sat 1.5 RV Satellite System- Discontinued


Author:
Don Miller (looking)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 27/ 07, 4:56pm

I guess that since most of the existing request for "Owners/Operation" Manuals for the Travel-Sat 1.5 DDS Satellite Dish, are from 2005 or older, NOBODY has or is willing to share a copy.
Thanks
Don

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[> Subject: Re: Travel-Sat 1.5 RV Satellite System- Discontinued


Author:
Ernie
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 27/ 07, 4:56pm

So Don, I went back to April on this forum message list and could not find where or when you posted your request. Maybe I'm missing some messages~??

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Subject: CANT SEND E-MAIL TO PATTENSEN, GERMANY.


Author:
CASPER
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 14/ 07, 12:54pm

fienbig.herbert@web.de

WHEN SENDEING TO THE ABOVE ADD., IT SAYS SENT BUT, THEY NEVER GET IT. WHY?

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[> Subject: Re: CANT SEND E-MAIL TO PATTENSEN, GERMANY.


Author:
Rich D.
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 14/ 07, 12:46pm

Looks like an incomplete address. Is there even a ".de"? Maybe missing the part after the ".de" like "velopment.com" or some such thing.

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[> Subject: Re: CANT SEND E-MAIL TO PATTENSEN, GERMANY.


Author:
Rich D.
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 14/ 07, 12:54pm

Whoops! I didn't see "Germany". It is a good domain name. (.de Deutschlands beste E-Mail.
X Testsieger - kostenlos!)

Perhaps the recipient's settings don't allow foreign mail?

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Subject: cat 300


Author:
joe harris
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 31/ 07, 5:57pm

can a cat 300 installed in a motorhome be reprogramed for more h.p.

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Subject: Full Timming


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 30/ 07, 9:31pm

l am planning on puchasing a bird 1999 to 2003 with one or two slides for full timming in Canada. Winters here can at times go down to minus -20 -30 for a few weeks and l was wondering if anybody has lived the experience.
Q: Would we be confortable in this weather with slides extended. ex: snow on slides, cold drafts around slide edges.
Being our first time are there any books on this subject.
l thank you in advance.
Ken
simpson@videotron.ca
cell: 514-770-4112

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[> Subject: Re: Full Timming


Author:
Dave Pujals
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 30/ 07, 9:31pm

I live in West Virginia in the middle of five ski resorts which are within 2 hours away. The problem is external as well as internal... consider battery heaters as you will be plugged in and working them constantly. Also have at hand and maintain full on-board propane - and an investment in a large external tank is a good move to insure capacity when needed most. Electric space heaters in the coach as back-up is a must, and heavy-duty heat tape to all water and sewer lines are needed. Skirting under the coach is a smart move and this can be done in a number of ways, in doing this you will greatly reduce wind under the coach and further reduce heating expenses as well as reduce damage potential to items by freezing. Keep on-board water tanks full - this way if you do freeze up the external water line you will have a few days worth of on-board water. Capture heat loss from utility items such as you fridge and convert or divert heat. The Blue Bird Wanderlodge is a well insulated vehicle - once you get it warmed-up maintaining heat in it should not be too bad.

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Subject: turn signal side lights


Author:
james
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 28/ 07, 5:32pm

I just bought a 1977 33FC and need to replace th "half round" front side turn signal lights. I like the old look of these lights and want to keep it original. Bluebird says they are no longer available. Can anyone help me? thanks, jim

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[> Subject: Re: turn signal side lights


Author:
Stephen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 27/ 07, 7:50am

They are in fact no longer available anywhere
I have the clearance lights for the fc in led
And that is the only light that is not available
there are lights that are close made by grote
you will have to cut a bigger hole to mint it
I laso have other parts for Wanderldoge drop me a line for further info
Stephen 77fc35

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[> [> Subject: Re: turn signal side lights


Author:
jim sears (lights)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 28/ 07, 7:49am

I'm interestedin the lights by grote and other parts you might have.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: turn signal side lights


Author:
Stephen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 28/ 07, 5:32pm

give me a call 905 328 0162 or send me your number via email and I will call you
Stephen

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Subject: New forum


Author:
Kathy
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 05/ 6/ 07, 1:46pm

Just wondering if you have tried out the new forum and interested in what you think of it. Thanks for your help.

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Subject: fuel exits through muffler


Author:
John Harvey Tanglao
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 23/ 07, 7:51pm

PLEASE HELP! I have a caterpillar 3208t engine but when it is running the fuel exits through the muffler. hope someone can give me answer to my problem

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Subject: Help


Author:
Brad Bloxham
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 21/ 07, 3:31pm

I think I have read all the posts and have found out more intake air is a good thing on my 76, 3208. Is it a good idea to just cut another 4" air intake hole in the air filter housing? And I am a new owner with NO manuals at all for anything. I would be happy to pay someone to have their manual copied and sent to me. I will pay for your time, coping costs and freight up front. Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Help


Author:
Stephen
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 21/ 07, 3:31pm

I have a 77 and would be willing to help you out
Stpehen

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Subject: alternative fuels for deisel engines


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 21/ 07, 11:08am

Hi all, well here is a subject that should interest us all. Hopefully we can all benifit from this one, does anyone have some good input on this subject? I am just starting to look at options to increase fuel milage or type of fuel , I guess I am mainly wondering about lpg, does anyone use or have converted to LPG? on there v92 series engine? I know that it increases performance, and should be good for the engine, but does it actually effect your milage enough to justify it cost wise? any ideas that will increase fuel milage I would like to hear about. Thanks again and lets keep this one going and see if we cant come up with some good ideas that would benifit us all!

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[> Subject: Re: alternative fuels for deisel engines


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 26/ 07, 11:50pm

Does anyone have natural gas or propane installed on their 6-8v-92 series engine? If so I would like to chat? has anyone done any fuel conversions as well?
Thanks
Ken

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[> [> Subject: Re: alternative fuels for deisel engines


Author:
Don
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 21/ 07, 11:08am

Hi all,

This is quite the topic of heated discussion from time to time on diesel 2-cycle forum(s). And all of the following relates to 2-cycle operation.

People do report doing this with good results; at least nothing has blown up yet for them. At least on guy did report blowing off the cover of his super charger though.

Being a 2-cycle engine, operation is a bit different than a 4-cycle engine. People (mechanics who saw this in training) report that if you do put a site glass in your airbox you will see open flame develope from time to time, though they don't necissarily state if this was an unusual condition or circumstances. Apparently 2-cycle engines do not scavenge all gasses and unburnt fuels as well as 4-cycles do.

There are some who simply state, "if there are open flames in the airbox/supercharger and you introduce an explosive gas, what do you think will happen".

I supose that that depends on how much gas your introduce. I've read that the lower explosive limmit of propane is 5.21%. So if you introduce propane at say 4 cfm per 100 cfm of intake airflow, perhaps no explosion even if a spark is present; what if other fuels are present as well and you reach the 5.21% level unexpectedly?

Anyhow, just a few thought to ponder and research if your willing to take the plunge. Just remember 99% of the propane injection information out their is based on 4-cycle engines.

I am only aware of one second hand report where engine dammage was done, minor. I personally would not run this at idle. Most folks seem to simply route gas to the top of the supercharger and go by the seat of there pants.

On my old 3208 (4-cycle) it took very little propaine to elliminate black smoke and boost off the line performance.

Regards, Don

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Subject: 1983 Holiday Rambler-Generator Electrical circuits


Author:
Dave
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 19/ 07, 12:14pm

I have a Kohler Generator and it does not supply pwr to the motorhome when running and load breakers are 'on" and pwr cord is plugged into proper receptacle. How can I test for actual output from the generator?

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[> Subject: Re: 1983 Holiday Rambler-Generator Electrical circuits


Author:
Rich D.
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 19/ 07, 12:14pm

Dave, when you say "load breakers are ON" are you referring to the breakers in the electrical panel in the coach or the breakers mounted directly on the generator? Both, of course, must be ON.

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Subject: 75FC33SB Engine & Transmission


Author:
Jerry Kaehr
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 5/ 07, 3:37pm

We purchased "A-Okay" the 1975 FC33SB pictured in the Vintage Birds History Section late last year. It needs work, particularly the engine and transmission.

Any advise and past experience in overhauling/upgrading the engine/transmission would be appreciated.

Any sources for value mechanical work in Indiana or surrounding states would be welcome.

Also advise on sources for learning about our project would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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Subject: 120V AC meter


Author:
Hansel
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 3/ 07, 6:27am

I have a 1980 FC 35FT Wanderlodge. I've been on 50 AMP shore power for a month and have noticed that my Voltage meter never goes beyond 95-100. I had the RV park staff check the power distribution box and they got normal readings. Can anyone provide any answers on why this may be occuring?

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[> Subject: Re: 120V AC meter


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 28/ 07, 2:43pm

Well check the voltage at the camp outlet, if it is higher, then check the voltage at the breaker panel, if it reads the same as the camp outlet then suspect the gauge, if it reads low like your gage, then it sounds like a bad ground, switch your shore power switch on and off a few times as they will sometimes be the cause with a older bus (bad connections), make sure you have a good connection at the plug on both ends especially the ground. hope this helps
Ken

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[> Subject: Re: 120V AC meter


Author:
Hansel
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 04/ 3/ 07, 6:27am

Thanks Ken

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Subject: Dull Trim


Author:
Leon Walker (Good Morning Blue Birders)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 30/ 07, 5:44pm

Does anyone know what kind of material the ,suppose, to be shiney trim on the sides of an 86 BB is made of? Mine is very dull. I've tried chrome polish, aluminum polish, acid,every type of kitchen cleaner I can think of to no avail.I would like to get it shined up. It is the only dull thing on my 86 40PT. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Leon

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[> Subject: Re: Dull Trim


Author:
Leon Walker
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 27/ 07, 7:38am

I'll try again. Does anyone have any idea how to shine the trim on the side of an 86 PT40 I think i've tried everything but i'm sure as much knowledge as there is out there that someone knows what to use.Thanks for any help.

Have a great day

Leon Walker

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[> [> Subject: Re: Dull Trim


Author:
Bob Loomas
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 30/ 07, 5:52am

Hi Leon The answer to your question is no .I tried everything to get them to shin with
No luck. The trim is aluminum .I removes mine and painted them and reinstalled them.
At least I am not looking at oxidize aluminum.
Bob Loomas 1985 PT36

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Dull Trim


Author:
Leon Walker
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 30/ 07, 9:26am

Thanks for your reply Bob I was beginging to think that I was the only one that ever tried to shine mine. I think the next time i'm around a major truck stop that i'll get one of the guys that does truck wheels and tanks to try some jewelers rouge with a high speed buffer and see if he can bring the shine back.

Leon

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: Dull Trim


Author:
ernie ekberg
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 30/ 07, 5:44pm

Leon, the aluminum is annodized- can't be shined, unless you go below the annodized part. Then you would have to redo that from now on. Ernie- with the same unshiny stuff on my 83PT40

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Subject: Electric trailer brake


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 26/ 07, 11:44pm

Hi, does anyone have any suggestions on the easiest way to wire a trailer brake on a 84pt 35, like the wire that goes from the controller to the plug? any suggestions are appreaciated.
Thanks Ken

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[> Subject: Re: Electric trailer brake


Author:
Ken
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 26/ 07, 11:44pm

well after reading this maybe i better be more specific, does anyone know the easiest way to run a wire from the front dash to the rear trailer plug? is there a exsisting wire that could be used? any special path for routing a new wire? or do I just go for it? I thought about just taking it down to a rv shop but I dont have much confidence in letting some one else do the job right. any suggestions will help from some one that has already done the trailer brake project.
Thanks in advance
Ken

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Subject: TRANSMISSION FLUID


Author:
KEN
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 21/ 07, 10:49am

Well here is another question for you all, I have a 84 pt35 with the mt645 if that sounds right allison automatic, the service manuel says it takes dexron 11 fluid, the logs I found says that it was serviced twice using 15/40 motor oil, then the last time says they went to synthetic but didnt say what type, ive talked to a couple of truck drivers and they say yes you can run all those fluids in it, but from my understanding of automatic transmissions that does not sound right. they say running the motor oil helps it run cooler, same with the synthetic, but what about the clutch plates? would like some input from some of you that run pushers with this trans tell me your thoughts, my first thought would be to run plain old dexron11 then maybe a friction modifier like BG trans cond. my exsperiance with synthetic is its hard on the clutch packs as would be the motor oil, i would think. whats your guys input?
thanks ken

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[> Subject: Re: TRANSMISSION FLUID


Author:
Bob Dilks
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 03/ 1/ 07, 8:12am

If your transmission fluid has been replaced with synthetic fluid it might be TranSynd ($28/ gallon)as recommended by Allison. Stick to the synthetic because it can take more heat and should run slightly cooler.

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[> [> Subject: Re: TRANSMISSION FLUID


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 03/ 21/ 07, 10:49am

well after researching it more Ive come to the conclusion that it was last changed using synthetic, and according to allison that is what they recommend as well. thanks for your help on this one

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Subject: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 03/ 21/ 07, 10:46am

Hi does anyone know what the fuel consumption on a kohler deisel generator, 84pt 35, I just purchased the coach and was amazed at how much fuel the generator used, right around 30 gallons in 12 hours does this sound right? It seems to start and run well, doesnt appear to be running rich, was thinking of pulling the injectors having them redone but If this is about normal then maybe not. That just seems like a ton of fuel for that motor.

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[> Subject: Re: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
Bill Schreurs
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Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 8:02pm

That does seem high. I have not checked it myself, but in my manual, I think it states 1/2 gallon per hour, but someone wrote in it beside that it is actually 3/4 gallon per hour.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 20/ 07, 3:43am

Hi Peter, and thanks again, mine is a perkins, sorry about that,is that what yours is>?I looked through my manuel and it says nothing anywhere about rated fuel consumption, 1/2 gallon an hour or so would be great, I guess I could always disconnect the fuel line and draw it off a measured container of fuel.

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[> Subject: Re: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
George Frazer
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Date Posted: 02/ 23/ 07, 9:33am

Hi
I will look in my book when I can find it, I have a PT40 with a 12.5 KW Kohler with a 4 cyl. Perkins. I just read a short time back, mine is supposed to burn a little over 1 gal. hr., less than 2 gal. I can't remember exact amount, a friend and I were discussing it and mine was real close to his gas 6.5 Onan, a little more but almost double KW. Check exhaust, should be at most a little haze under load, if it's overfueling, you should notice grey or black exh. The darker the color, the more unburned fuel, white smoke is unfired fuel. Check air filter first. I'm getting close to putting injectors in mine and think I can get dealer discounts, if you need a set, I'll check prices. Use my regular e-mail as I rarely get to this site.
Geo.
PT40

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[> [> Subject: Re: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 07, 1:11am

Hi George, well I pulled the injectors and took them to a reptuble deisel injection service shop, I am going to change oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, and adjust valves, then I will run it for exactly 2 hours and get an exact consumption reading at that point, then I will post it here.
Thanks again

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
Hi again Ken
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Date Posted: 03/ 1/ 07, 10:15am

I just found info in my Kohler book and it says gen. should use 1.16 gph. under rated load. If you want, I can try to scan any info out of book and e-mail to you. If you need any other info, send me your e-maqil aqnd info you would like and I'll see what I can do.
Geo.

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: Generator fuel consumption


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 03/ 21/ 07, 10:46am

Hi guys, well after replacing the injectors, air filter, and complete service then running for 1 hour with roof a/c's on, I brimmed the fuel tank right to the top, and It appears to have used just over a gallon of fuel, but drawing out of a 300 gallon tank its hard to tell for sure, once I start using it more regularly I will have a better idea, but obviuosly the injectors definetly helped, thanks for your help on this one

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Subject: swing radiator kit


Author:
Carl Edgerton
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Date Posted: 03/ 20/ 07, 8:25am

I'm looking for a swing radiator kit for my 76 35fc. Any help would be appreciated. edgealaska@hotmail.com

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Subject: Detroit Diesel engine type 8V92TA of 735 horsepower


Author:
Ray Ashton
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Date Posted: 03/ 16/ 07, 3:18pm

Can anyone please let me know what the hourly fuel consumption is in respect of the above engine on a 20 metre yacht

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[> Subject: Re: Detroit Diesel engine type 8V92TA of 735 horsepower


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 03/ 15/ 07, 8:06pm

?????????????? this is in revelation to a Bluebird coach? on land???

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[> [> Subject: Re: Detroit Diesel engine type 8V92TA of 735 horsepower


Author:
Ray Ashton
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Date Posted: 03/ 16/ 07, 3:33am

Hi Ernie,

What would the consumption of a Bluebird coach be??

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Detroit Diesel engine type 8V92TA of 735 horsepower


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 03/ 16/ 07, 3:18pm

probably around 5-7 mpg- depending if you keep your foot out of it, lots of other factors- terrain, wind, grades, etc

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Subject: speedometer


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 28/ 07, 5:30am

Hi there, does anyone know any tricks or secrets on the easiest way to remove the odometer, i made a mild atempt at it by removing the screwed side rails around the bottom dash panel, but could not see what was holding in the top panel, looks like a real job, any suggestions are greatly appreaciated, I wonder if bluebird ever produced an actuall repair manuel outside of all the manuels it came with?
Thanks Ken

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[> Subject: Re: speedometer


Author:
Ken still looking for any tips on the easy way to remove the speedometer
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Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 07, 1:19am


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[> Subject: Re: speedometer


Author:
Steve Anderson
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Date Posted: 02/ 26/ 07, 9:24am

Since the early 1960s until the present BB has made a lot of dash styles, and odometers have undergone a lot of changes from mechanical to electronic to digital. to answer your question, one would need to know of which year BB your question pertains to.

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[> Subject: Re: speedometer


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 02/ 26/ 07, 3:05pm

Ken, a screw is located on the top, right of your upper dash. Maybe it is concealed in a mike holder. that should let you remove that part. watch out for the million wires that are there. Ernie-83PT40

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[> [> Subject: Re: speedometer


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 27/ 07, 2:39pm

Hi Ernie, It has the cb mike plug on the side of the upper dash toward the bottom, I drove the bird down town last week to get emmissions done then a couple days later I noticed that the trip meter and odometer had tripped off about 8 miles, wich is probably how far I drove it. I didnt notice when I was driving if it moved but apperantley it did. then when I was sitting there noticing that I decided to turn the ingnition switch on and off a few times and noticed each time I clicked it on and off the odometer would click off another tenth? maybe before I tear the odometer out I should find a schematic of that circut to see exactly how it works. I was just approaching it like a regular vehicle odometer when the odometer quits working and speedo still does its usually in the speedo head. but with it clicking off with the ignition Im not sure what to think.any ideas on where to get the schematic, or do you know someone that is familiar with working on this , sure would like to fix it but dont want to start tearing it out till I know more about how it works, im woundering if there is something else that maybe powers or works the odometer seperate from the speedometer, if i had the schematic im sure i could figure it out. I drove it home when I bought it 1500 miles and it never clicked off anything,
thanks again
ken

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: speedometer


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 27/ 07, 2:53pm

84 pt35 6v92

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: speedometer


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 02/ 28/ 07, 5:30am

Ralph Fullenwider is the one to ask about birds. rlf47@swbell.net

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Subject: Gas saftey valve


Author:
G Frazer
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Date Posted: 02/ 27/ 07, 9:43am

I have an 85 PT40 and there was a safety valve in propane line between regulator and manifold for furnaces and reefer. mine was removed and replaced with a piece of pipe. Can anybody tell me where to find such a valve or who makes or made it. The coil and wiring are there but valve is gone.
Thanks
Geo.

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[> Subject: Re: Gas saftey valve


Author:
Don
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Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 07, 12:43pm

Hello,

West Marine sells somthing simular. Blue Sea Systems actually makes these systems as well.

That's where I would start looking.

Reagerds, Don

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[> [> Subject: Re: Gas saftey valve


Author:
George
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Date Posted: 02/ 13/ 07, 4:39am

Thanks Don, I'm just figuring out how to use forum, i just found your reply.
George & Diane Frazer
85PT40
S.F. Bay Area

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[> Subject: Re: Gas saftey valve


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 02/ 5/ 07, 5:55pm

The safety valve must be a low pressure model and matched to a leak detector mounted in the coach interior below the dinette bench adjacent to the refrigerator. Contact CCI Controls (ccicontrols.com) at 323-560-6060 in South Gate California for a matched detector and valve which will meet Blue Bird factory specifications.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Gas saftey valve


Author:
George
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Date Posted: 02/ 14/ 07, 6:35am

Hi Bob
Thanks heaps for your help. I read some about how it works in books that came with BB and the detector under dinette is there and LED is on but the valve has been replaced with a plastic pipe and that worries me. I thought if I could find original type I could save some work , the coil is still wired in behind reefer and I wouldn't have to change all sensors etc. I'm an old retarded heavy equip. mech. in North S.F. Bay Area and have pretty good sources for running gear and undercarriage parts in the area. I also have a good friend who is one of the best diesel eng. mech. on west coast and honest as good, retired also but will do a few side jobs. If I can be of any help, let me know.
I don't look here often, just figured it out, best to reach me at,
gaf42@yahoo.com
Thanks again
Geo.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Gas saftey valve


Author:
Don
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Date Posted: 02/ 16/ 07, 3:51pm

I wouldn't say "matched". It would need to be able to flow a simular ammout of propaine. I'm guessing that most propane solenoids designed cut flow for a system, rather than a single appliance, would be adequate.

Current demands for the coil would be simular. I've never looked at my bus but I would think the solenoid would be on the high pressure side for the greatest protection, or after the first regulator. But you could use a low pressure solenoid at the appliance regulator that drops the propane down to 11" of water column (often at the fridge access pannel).

If your system is simular to mine, then it is a single detector beneath the fridge (not tied in to the other propane detectors through out the bus). While your detection system is still in place, it may well have failed, as opposed to the solenoid. If the solenoid coil is this present you could energize the system and see if it becomes magnatized, its' ohms of resistance (to compair to the next solenoid for campatability), or if power is reaching it.

You can test the detector by taking a propane torch and hitting the detector with some fumes. This will only tell you that the detector does something, it does not address sensitivity.

A bit more trivia... Your red regulator at your propane tank is set at the factory to 10 PSI, then that pressure is reduced at the fridge for appliance use. If you try do adjust the 10 PSI setting there is a good chance that the ancient rubber diaphram within will crack and overnight your propaine will vent out of the regulator via a weep hole.

Regards,

Don

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Gas saftey valve


Author:
George
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Date Posted: 02/ 27/ 07, 9:43am

Hi Don
I'm just about to begin with this project. I really appreciate your help. My knowledge of propane systems is limited. I will check using your tips and go from there. I'm chasing 30 amp. elect plugs and spare tire or 2 before hitting road this spring but propane is very dangerous if not handled correctly and it's a MUST FIX, while serving on volunteer fire dept., we saw many films on propane fires and explosions and fought a few in mobile homes. I don't want to experience one, especially if we're in coach although one would probably never know what hit you if it blew.
Thanks again
Geo.
85PT40
No. Ca.

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Subject: Vent cover


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 07, 1:16am

Hi guys , does anyone have a lead on where to get a cover/lid for the big auto vent fan I have on my 84pt 35 the cover is almost as big as the a/c covers.
Thanks in advance

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[> Subject: Re: Vent cover


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 24/ 07, 1:16am

Just thought I would add and close this comment, I was able to make a max air cover, the big one they use for there version of the same fan. I was able to attach it to the aluminum bell on the old unit, it turned out quite well infact I bought a whole new fantastic fan assy that would have been nice since it was remote controlled and had the rain sensor with the sealed lid and everything, but this cover worked out so well I decided to keep the original fan in place.

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Subject: wanderlodge wheel cover


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 02/ 21/ 07, 6:19pm

Wheel cover needed for a 1976 Bluebird 35fc. The cover is for the rear wheel and is 22 inches in diameter. It has three mounting holes in the center and 27 slots around the outer rim. 907-374-6997

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Subject: 50 Amp service


Author:
Ken (84pt 35)
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Date Posted: 02/ 21/ 07, 7:41am

Hey guys, well I need some help on the wiring diagram for the 50 amp service plug receptacle, 84 pt 35 it has two seperate 30 amp receptacles and the 50 amp, the 50 amp is colored red and so is the end of the cord, the 30 amp ones are not painted. all the ends on all the cords look the same they are all the three prong 2 slants and a round on the end that plugs into the wall, the other ends are all the bluebird twist lock connectors. I figured that the 50 amp 240v service plug would have a hot leg to both the slants and the nutral ground to the round, but thats not it, anyone know how this is wired and how it works. if I use my 120v adapter on the 50 amp service it works for a minute before it blows the breaker, but all hook up lights are good. is the 50 amp service just a 120v system? any help is appreaciated, and thanks in advance

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[> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Peter (78 35FC)
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Date Posted: 02/ 17/ 07, 9:12am

The 50 Amp power cord should have a 4 prongs. Three vertical and a round ground. the thee prongs are; two hot, one common, and the round is ground. I can only assume that either the plug has been changed or perhaps the previous owner changed the cord so he could plug one plug into 30 amp 120 V service (through the 50 amp rec in the bus). the best thing to do is open the metal plug and see how it is wired. The 50 amp power cord should be much bigger diameter than the 30 amp. If it is the same size then someone has changed it.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 17/ 07, 2:54pm

Thanks Peter, the 50 amp service twist plug on the coach, is just a 3 pole plug same as the two 30 amp receptacles, when I plug in the two 30 amp plugs I have every thing working in the coach, although the leg gauges up front still only show 1 leg of power, I just bought the coach and when I picked it up they had the 50 amp service cord plugged in and everything worked , the 50 amp cord looks the same as the 30 amp cords, same size and same legs on both ends the outlet side is the two slants and a round, the end looks to have been hot but was still working and it wasent throwing there breaker, its definately not a true 240 volt service from what I can tell so far yet why would they have two leg gauges up front and two amps as well, unless this coach used some type of isolation or voltage deverter I dont know, and I hate to start tearing the coach apart to figure it out when everything seems to work ok. I ohmed the adapter cord he gave me to plug into 240 volt service which has the three verticals and the round to the two slants and round and all it does is take away one leg of power and and leaves the other live on a 50 amp breaker, when I try this connection thru the 50 amp cord all connection lights work, every thing works the same as when the two seprate 30 amp cords are plugged in, still no input reading on the leg gauge, and the plug end does get a little warm. Tells me the coach is just a 120 service, yet the sticker in the service compartment says 240 volt, and any info I have found in my manuels say its 240 volt, yet all the plugs and recptacles appear to be original.even when the generator is fired every thing is the same as being plugged in . When I first wired my 240 service plug I just asumed that the two slants on that 50 amp plug would be hot and the neutral and groung would be tied too the round. so I just hooked it all up the swiched the masted to 50 amp setting and almost blew everything up direct short to ground, luckly I still had my hand on the switch and was able to get it back of before anything blew, although there was some electrical smell coming from back in the converter charger area,but I doesnt appear to have hurt anything, I was shocked and pissed obiuosly of that happening and have been ohming and doing everything I can short of tearing the coach apart to figure this out, it would be nice to know exactly how this works or whats been done but since everything appears to work, and there is no 240 volt appliances in the coach I guess I wont worry about it, it just would be nice to have 240 volt. I do appreactiate any and all feed back on this matter.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Peter (78 35FC)
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Date Posted: 02/ 17/ 07, 6:40pm

I sounds like a previous owner has rewired that 50 amp power cord to be used for a single 30 amp service.

When you use the two 30 amp (120 volt) plugs, one of them powers one of the distribution bars in the distribution panel (circuit breaker panel) and the other 30 amp(120 volt) plug powers the other distrubution bar.

Normally when you have 50 amp (240 volt) service one leg provides power (120 volt) to one of the distribution bars and the other leg provides power (120 volt) to the other distribution bar. The adapter plug that you have sounds like the kind that you buy at camping world. It is designed to allow you to plug a 30 amp (120 volt) plug into a 50 amp(240 volt) service, when no 30 amp (120 volt) service is available. It does exactly what you said, in that it drops one of the legs of power so in fact you get just single 50 amp 120 volt service to your RV.

I think the problem is that someone replaced the cord on your 50 amp service cord. There should be a 4 wire cord. Two hot- normally a black and a red (that go to the two power prongs on your bus receptacle) one common- normally white wire that goes to the other prong and a ground - normally green that is attached to the metal outside housing if it is a metal plug, or to the grounding strip if it is a plastic plug. This provides 50 amp (120 volts) to each of the distribution bars in the bus.

You should take and open the 50 amp plug that attaches to the bus and I am think that you will find that it is wired with just three wires. I suspect that the single hot wire is attached to two of the prongs in order to power both sides of the distribution box from a single 30 amp (120 volt) power source.

I believe the problem is with your power cord not the bus. If you would like to talk give me a call. (250) 334-2852

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 5:32pm

Thanks Peter for your time and input, I think you are exactly right, after playing with it more last night useing the two seperate 30 amp cords, I am showing 120 volts on bolth legs on leg gauges,and of course useing the 50amp service the with just 1 leg 120v 50 amp it all works, so that is what they have done is just tie the two legs to one on the 50 amp plug. Thanks again for all the help on this, I think I will just leave it for now , I have a seperate generator that I use for the trailer and welder ect.. I will just continue to use it for 220 volt plug ins.
Thanks agai peter

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[> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Bill Schreurs
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Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 8:31pm

Ken:
Wow, I do not read this forum often, maybe I will from now on.
I have to dispute a number of things which Peter has said, and also what you have done.
Gosh, you are setting yourself up, or someone else, to get killed.

The 50 amp plug has only three prongs, and the fourth is the steel case at the ends. The cable with the red painted ends is exactly that - 50 amp 240 volt service.
You mention that when you run the generator the one leg does not show any power either, are you looking at voltage or current.
If that is the case, maybe the cords are ok, it could be the selector switch, 30/50/gen etc. Try moving the selector switch.

Now about killing someone - NEVER, NEVER in a RV should the ground and neutral be connected together. If you were to connect them together, and if you lost the ground connection, and someone came and touched the coach under the right conditions, they could possibly be the ground path, causing either serious or fatal injuries.

Ken, email me if you wish, then maybe we can talk on telephone, and then you can print here what you found.

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[> [> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 20/ 07, 3:25am

Hi Bill and thanks for your input, I surely agree with you on not tying the ground and neutral together I have seen situations where people have done that and have been jolted from it, I was just trying the obious wiring when I first tried to wire a plug hear at my house. Do you have one like mine with the red marking for 50amp and the yellow for the 30 amps, if so then what you are saying is on the three prong 50 amp receptacle you have two legs that are hot, one leg is neutral, and the case of the plug is ground? if that is the case then how does the other end hook up, it is the 2 slants and one round plastic insulated end no sheild or anything exsposed for the ground hook up,I guess at this point the only way to really know is to pull the receptacle and see how it is wired. Thanks for your help on this issue, and since how it is now, it works and is all properly grounded and safe I will just leave it alone and move on to other things on the coach.
Thanks again

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[> [> [> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Bill Schreurs
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Date Posted: 02/ 21/ 07, 7:41am

Ken:
My plug on the male end has 4 prongs, the one used for a 50 amp 240 volt service

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Bill Schreurs
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Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 8:39pm

Peter:
Where u from?
I got a 250 prefix on my phone as well. You must be in BC Canada somewhere.

Bill

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[> [> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 50 Amp service


Author:
Peter
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Date Posted: 02/ 20/ 07, 6:24pm

Yes, I am in Courtenay, on the Island.

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Subject: leveling jacks


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 5:52pm

Hi everyone, I have a 84 pt35 and the left front jack does not flip down, it extends but the little cylinder that flips it down does not move at all, does the little cylinder automaticaly start working with the same fluid pressure as the main jack? if so then is there a check valve that could be stuck, or would it just be the cylinder it self, they had all 4 jacks down and working when I picked up the coach but I never did retry to raise them again till I got home, any help is greatly appreaciated.

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Subject: water leak


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 5:36pm

I have a 84 pt35 drips water out the water fill connection when pump is turned on, not bad but bad enough, I assume it is the water fill valve that you switch when filling the coach, but cant figure out which valve, any ideas? also have 3 lighted light switches in the back bedroom closet, one is the water heater, and I think the other two are seperate battery heaters? anyone know for sure?
thanks in advance, ken

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[> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 02/ 3/ 07, 10:25am

Ken- those switches are- first- engine block heater, second- water heater, third, battery heaters. Battery heaters are probably gone by now.
You may have some crud in that flow back valve. Sometimes on mine, I have to stick something in there to stop it from spewing. Ernie-83PT40

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[> [> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 6/ 07, 11:48pm

Thanks Ernie I wasent quite sure if the fill/regulator had a check valve/ball or not, was thinkinging that one of those electric valves might be the culprate, but I will replace the fill/regulator, and thanks on the switches as well.

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[> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
Rich D.
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Date Posted: 02/ 9/ 07, 11:07am

Ken,
If the tank fill valve had a problem your pump would cycle on and off when you are not drawing water. It sounds to me like the back flow preventer built into the fill connection is stuck. Cleaning these usually does the trick but if not, they are inexpensive to replace.

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[> [> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 10/ 07, 11:33pm

thanks rich, that is exactly what it is, ive tried playing with it but now it leaks worse, I will replace it.

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[> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 02/ 10/ 07, 1:35pm

The tank fill switch operates a Sporlan (electric solenoid)valve under the bed. Your city water fill is a Jabsco Model 44410-1000 City Water Regulator manufactured by ITT Jabsco. The ease or difficulty of replacing the unit depends on the coach's bed configuration. Cost of the City Water Regulator is about $35 from West Marine, more at Blue Bird.

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[> [> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 10/ 07, 11:37pm

thanks rob sounds like you know these very well, I tried to pick up a jabsco but the number they use now is a little bigger in mounting diameter, any ideas? you dont think i could take the speedo out and down to the speedo shop for repair? any idea on why my jack wont flip down? thanks again

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 10/ 07, 11:40pm

Sorry I meant Bob:)

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
Don
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 02/ 12/ 07, 5:04pm

Hello,

You can replace or clean the guts on the jabsco unit by turning the center plastic ring (that has two holes) counter clock wise. put a pin in each hole and put a wrench over the water fill and turn applying preasure to the pins with the wrench.

I found a doner unit on ebay. But you may be able to refurbish the old one.

Regards, Don

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: water leak


Author:
Don
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 02/ 19/ 07, 5:36pm

Hey thanks Don, that is exactly what I did last night was take it apart and clean, replaced oring, and it now works great, thanks for the tip on the two weep holes for disassembly.

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Subject: Fuel Gauge Malfunction


Author:
Joe
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Date Posted: 02/ 17/ 07, 1:27pm

My fuel gauge the majority of time reads 1/4 full although once in a while it will pose at 3 o'clock with a flutter.Could there be a bad sending unit or a bad fuel float, other? Any ideas or experiences with this.I just purchased this 1985 Bird.

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[> Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Malfunction


Author:
Harold
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Date Posted: 02/ 17/ 07, 1:27pm

Joe,
I had a simular problem. The electrical plug on the fuel tank wasn't watertight. Caused bad gage readings

Just a thought,

Harold Prescott
'85 FC35
Northern California

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Subject: I have a 1985 vovlo white semi and i can not locate the leveler nor the dump valve. can you tell me where to locate them


Author:
anthony hutchinson (confused)
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Date Posted: 02/ 15/ 07, 6:06pm

i have a 1985 volvo white semi and i can not locate the leveler valve nor the dump valve with a henderson suspension. Thanks for your time

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Subject: planning to buy


Author:
dan wade
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Date Posted: 02/ 12/ 07, 1:51pm

I am going to look at and possibly purchase a 1982 wanderlodge. All I know about this coach is that it has a cat engine with 107k miles and that it has the engine in the front. $20,000 is what the guy wants.
Can anyone give me any tips or advice on what to look for if I should even consider this model as my first.
Thanks in advance
dan

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Subject: leveleling


Author:
mike
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Date Posted: 02/ 11/ 07, 10:38pm

HI FELLOW BB OWNERS, I JOINED THE CLUB ABOUT 8 MONTHS AGO WITH THE PURCHASE OF AN 85 BB REAR BATH, IVE GOT LOTS OF QUESTIONS BUT WILL STICK TO ONE TOPIC RIGHT NOW. THERES THE LEVELING L
IGHTS ON THE DASH AND TRY AS I MAY I CANT GET THE THING LEVEL AT LEAST WITH THE LIGHTS ANYWAY IF ANYONE HAS ANY TRICKS FOR THIS IM VERY INTERESTED. ALSO LEAVING MY LAST JOB I PULLED UP THE JACKS AND FORGOT THE LEVERS WERE UP TILL SOME 50 MILES DOWN THE ROAD I HAVENT CHECKED YET BUT ASSUME PROB AT LEAST BLEW OUT SEALS OR THE PUMP HOPE BB DESIGNED A FAILSAFE FOR DUMMIES LIKE MYSELF ANYWAY IS THERE A REBUILD KIT FOR THE JACKS I THINK WOULD BE FAIRLY EASY BUT DONT WANT TO TEAR APART TIL NOW OPTIONS. ALSO DOES BB HAVE A LINK FOR OUR OLDER BBs if so i cant find seems they should though. thanks to all this site seems to have a lot of info.
mike

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Subject: odometer and trip meter


Author:
Ken
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Date Posted: 02/ 10/ 07, 1:08pm

Hi there I have a 85 pt and the odometer and trip meter quit working, before I pull the guage out I was wondering if anyone has any exsperience with this, the speedo still works ok, I figured it is in the speedometer but not sure, does the trip meter run directly from the odometer? any help is grately appreaciated, also my left front jack will not swing down, the jack its self exstends ok but the little ram that swings it down does not work? any ideas?
Thanks again in advance.
Ken

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[> Subject: Re: odometer and trip meter


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 02/ 10/ 07, 1:08pm

Your Teleflex speedometer will have to be replaced with a VDO programmable unit available from Blue Bird. Your trip odometer will no longer work because there is no current speedometer that provides a pulse to the remote trip odometer. Follow the VDO wiring diagram for the "Hall Effect Sensor" which is driven off the driver's side rear drive wheel. Any questions give me a call at 580-564-3517.

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Subject: Shower diverter valve replacement


Author:
David
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Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 07, 7:49pm

I need to replace the shower diverter valve on my 1990 WL. It appears that the only access (without removing the shower) is from the outside, via the refrigerator access panel. Is this the preferred method?

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[> Subject: Re: Shower diverter valve replacement


Author:
keith
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Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 07, 7:49pm

shower valve you should be able to loosen two screws in round cover behind shower control handle then you can access the shower parts for maintenance

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Subject: REAR HUBCAP FOR A 1976 FC BLUE BIRD COACH


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 02/ 7/ 07, 5:31pm

I'M STILL LOOKING FOR A REAR HUBCAP FOR A 1976 BLUE BIRD COACH. I'M HOPING TO FIND SOMEONE WHO HAS CHANGED TO DIFFERENT WHEELS AND HAS ONE OR TWO LAYING AROUND. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP. edgealaska@hotmail.com

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Subject: rear hubcap needed


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 02/ 5/ 07, 8:40am

I need a rear hubcap for a 1976 Blue Bird. Any leads would be appreciated.

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Subject: Need parts for a 1978 Bluebird


Author:
Catherine Gasper
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Date Posted: 02/ 4/ 07, 9:25pm

We are the very new owners of a 1978 Bluebird Wanderlodge. We are in need of some parts.
RPM Gauge
Oil PSI Gauge
Top right gauge burned out/up ? Can't make out what it was.
Front Turn Signal lenses (yellow) 2 of them.

We are very exited about it. I am anxious to talk to everyone about it. I have enjoyed reading everything posted at the vintagebird site. I have posted information before and was not able to retrieve any information. Please call or email us if you can help. 402-276-1290. We are in Nebraska. Thanks so much. God Bless Cathie

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[> Subject: Re: Need parts for a 1978 Bluebird


Author:
Joshua
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Date Posted: 02/ 4/ 07, 9:25pm

Hey Cathie, I have a 78 too, and am learning as I go. I have some information, all the books that it came with, etc. It's kind of been open up a panel and figure out what's what though. Send me your questions and I'll see what I can answer. My email is:

thebigbadwolf72@yahoo.com

Throw something about bluebirds in the subject so I don't think it's spam. Offer holds true for anyone else too. :)

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Subject: 1978 BB W/L ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS


Author:
MIKE FREILEY
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Date Posted: 02/ 4/ 07, 9:19pm

I HAVE A 1978 WANDERLODGE WITH 12 VOLT ELECT. PROBLEMS THAT WILL RUN BATTERYS DOWN IN A FEW HOURS. THERE IS A BREAKER /FUSE SOMEWHERE OVER THE DRIVER SEAT THAT TRIPS AND RESETS OFTEN. THE COACH HAS OTHER MAJOR ELECT. PROBLEMS ALSO.
I LIVE NEAR FORT WORTH TX. CAN YOU RECCOMMEND A REPAIR SERVICE IN NORTH TX. OR SOUTH OKLAHOMA FOR ELECTRICAL AND BLUEBIRD RESTORATIONS? ANY HELP APPRECIATED.
THANK YOU
MIKE

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[> Subject: Re: 1978 BB W/L ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS


Author:
Cathie Gasper
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Date Posted: 02/ 2/ 07, 11:18pm

Mike. I just read your request on the 78 Bluebird Electrical problems. We just purchased a 1978 also and it has the same problem. Has anyone helped you yet or have you been able to find out a solution to your/our problem? Hope you are enjoying your new/old motorhome. We are fixing ours up a bit.
God Bless
Cathie

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[> Subject: Re: 1978 BB W/L ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS


Author:
Steve Anderson
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Date Posted: 02/ 3/ 07, 11:51pm

Mike, Since you are in N Texas/Oklahoma, you are in luck. You are near Ralph Fullenwider of "Ralphs RV Solutions" in Duncan Oklahoma. Ralph is one of the most knowledgable BlueBird repair men there is. Ralph is a regular contributer to this and other forums. His phone number/address is probably listed on this site, and he has a website under the business.

Steve Anderson
Poulsbo, Wa.
79 FC 35

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[> [> Subject: Re: 1978 BB W/L ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS


Author:
Joshua
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Date Posted: 02/ 4/ 07, 9:19pm

Hey guys,

Not sure if this is a recuring problem with 78's, but my 78 had problems as well. First thing, I found that there were shorts somewhere within the bird. In examining the batteries, I found two wires added to the hookups after buying it. This was a big red flag to me, so I disconnected them and it seems to have alleviated the problems. I haven't traced it out to see what the previous owner 'added' yet though.

Does it drain the battery even if the battery disconnect switch is in the off position? IF so, disconnect your batteries when you aren't working on it! Something is grounding out and could ultimately cause a fire! If a breaker is popping, and you can hear it, open up the front panel and figure out what's going on. Find the circuit that's tripping and trace it down. It's more then likely that there is a wire that has come loose and is grounding out to the body somewhere. It could be a number of things, but is most likely a wire that has come loose and is touching metal or a wire that is missing some of it's cladding, whether it be burned through or cracked off due to age, and is again touching metal and grounding out.

If you can't trace it or don't have the abilities to do it, you might want to just disconnect the connections that are popping the breaker. This will disable whatever is connected, but will also keep it from shorting out and draining your batteries.

If you are going to drive it to a repair shop, I'd at least track down which breaker is popping and disconnect it. If the breaker keeps popping and resetting, it means that whatever is causing the problem is still grounding out and as stated before could start a fire if that wire starts to burn up.

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Subject: 75FC33SB Engine & Transmission


Author:
Jerry Kaehr
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Date Posted: 02/ 3/ 07, 10:14am

We purchased "A-Okay" the 1975 FC33SB pictured in the Vintage Birds History Section late last year. It needs work, particularly the engine and transmission.

Any advise and past experience in overhauling/upgrading the engine/transmission would be appreciated.

Any sources for value mechanical work in Indiana or surrounding states would be welcome.

Also advise on sources for learning about our project would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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Subject: turbo cummins


Author:
Bear Shearer (excited)
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Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 07, 12:58pm

thinking buying a '73 wanderlodge.it has a turbo cummins with about 100k on it.the coach looks very well cared for but i haven't seen it in person yet.any opinions on this drive train are appreciated.
thanks,Bear

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[> Subject: Re: turbo cummins


Author:
Don
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Date Posted: 01/ 26/ 07, 12:58pm

Hello,

What cummins engine does it have with what transmission? Originally it would have been a gas non-turbo engine. So it is fairly unique. You sure someone didn't add a caterpillar 3208 turbo. This was a fairly common and wanted upgrade after the factory started using 3208 diesels.

Regards,

Don

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Subject: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
keith
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Date Posted: 01/ 19/ 07, 2:45pm

no help from bluebird tried check valve did't help engine will start after cranking about one minute after ideling for a short time starts to run ruff past a idel runs fine turn off and same thing again 77 thousand miles on engine changed all filters can't see any leaks any help would be apprceated thanks, Keith

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[> Subject: Re: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
Jon
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Date Posted: 12/ 31/ 06, 7:25am

Sounds like its getting air in the system,Take your filters off and see if there full of fuel ,If not its sucking air before the filters. And this will not show as a leak

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[> [> Subject: Re: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
keith
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Date Posted: 12/ 31/ 06, 12:28pm

the secondary fiter will only be about half full after I turn the engine off have checked all fitting seam to be tight racor will be full so the air leak should be from racor to secondary filter which is about 5' of fuel line odd that gave no warning signs before it happened,thanks Keith

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
Jon
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Date Posted: 12/ 31/ 06, 3:10pm

If you cant find the leak you can put air pressure through one of the feed lines{not alot about 10 pounds} and your air leak should leak fuel......

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[> Subject: Re: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 01/ 4/ 07, 8:07am

I agree with others the engine is not getting fuel - but why? If you have a check valve in the fuel line that is working then you likely have an air leak after the check valve and after the secondary filter. If the check valve is missing or leaking then the vacuum produced by fuel leaking back to the tank through the check valve coupled with an air leak after the secondary filter, is causing fuel to be siphoned from the secondary filter to the point where the engine needs about a minute to crank fuel back to start the engine. My experience with replacing filters is that the secondary filter must be filled to the absolute top for the engine to start promptly. Your engine should start in about a second. Remove the secondary filter, fill it to the top with new diesel, reinstall and promptly turn the ignition key.
Call Holland Motor Homes at 800-221-7197 for additional diagnostic help. If repair needed, take coach to a diesel shop in your area that has experience with Detroit Series 92 engines. Its possible you have a contaminated tank where fungus is clogging the filters reducing fuel flow to the point that high pump pressure is needed to supply the engine.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
Keith
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Date Posted: 01/ 4/ 07, 6:37pm

talked to a diesel mech. he thinks it is a blown fuse to the ecm, no service engine codes going to hook to computer read out this weekend I hope let you know the out come thanks, Keith

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: 97 detroit 60 series


Author:
Keith
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Date Posted: 01/ 19/ 07, 2:45pm

hello My starting seams to have been air after checking every fitting took lines loose on fuel pump turned the engine which did pump fuel retighted lines has started quick every since I would think they need to be run a few minutes every couple of weeks, all this problem happened while sitting for two months thanks for all the help Keith

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Subject: power steering leak


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 01/ 16/ 07, 1:29pm

My power steering pump is leaking on my 1976 3208 CAT. I would like to locate a repair kit. I also am looking for a rear hub cap for the same Bird.

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[> Subject: Re: power steering leak


Author:
Steve Anderson
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Date Posted: 01/ 15/ 07, 9:58pm

You should verify that it is actually the pump that is leaking. Most leaks are from the hoses, not the pump. The 25 year old hoses start weeping and leaking at about this age. Most often the pressure hose that feeds to the top of the steering gear is the culprit. Had new hoses made at NAPA. Access is through the floor under the drivers feet.

Steve Anderson
79 FC 35
Poulsbo Wa

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[> [> Subject: Re: power steering leak


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 01/ 16/ 07, 1:29pm

Steve, thank you for your response. I will check the hoses.

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Subject: Happy Birthday


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 01/ 3/ 07, 5:09am

Happy 75th birthday to Harvey Lawrence. WE hope you have many more, Harv!!! Ernie and Brenda

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Subject: 80 FC33 Air dump valve


Author:
Jon
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Date Posted: 12/ 28/ 06, 10:19am

I have a switch on the dash to dump the air bags but they wont dump,,, Does anybody know were to start looking??? Or were the valves are located and if they are electric....

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[> Subject: Re: 80 FC33 Air dump valve


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 12/ 24/ 06, 10:55am

Jon- more info, please- year and model of your coach

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[> [> Subject: Re: 80 FC33 Air dump valve


Author:
Jon
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Date Posted: 12/ 24/ 06, 11:00am

Its on the top 80 Fc 33

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[> Subject: Re: 80 FC33 Air dump valve


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 12/ 26/ 06, 5:13am

Jon: Call Blue Bird tech supports at 800-992-6337 and be sure to have your year and coach model as well as its body number available.

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[> Subject: Re: 80 FC33 Air dump valve


Author:
Fritz
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Date Posted: 12/ 28/ 06, 10:19am

I believe your system, like newer ones, needs pilot air to move the dump valve. Most air systems need more than about 65psi for this to occur. Next, check continuity through the switch (have to get to the backside of the switch and disconnect the leads. Third, with a multi-meter, check for voltage (nominal 12v) on one of the switch leads; and, Fourth, for a solid ground on the other lead. If all these pass, the problem probably lies elsewhere and someone more familiarity with your model can help.

Fritz

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Subject: Synthetic Oil


Author:
Sam
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Date Posted: 12/ 15/ 06, 5:42pm

I have a 83 FC and have been thinking of switching to a Synthetic oil for the 3208 Cat turbo and also the generator,which has a Perkins engine...wondering if the Rotella T synthetic 5W 40 would work ok or should I go with Mobil delvac 1 synthetic 15W 40 or are both just fine?

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[> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil


Author:
kerry edwards
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Date Posted: 12/ 15/ 06, 1:16pm

I've been using the Rotella synthetic in my Mercedes diesels and in my CAT 3208 NA. I'm happy with it.

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[> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 12/ 15/ 06, 5:42pm

As a general rule diesel engines should have a diet of single weight oil instead of multi-viscosity. The reason is that the shear strength of an oil is based on its viscosity. Multi-viscosity oils, such as the 5W40 that you mentioned are composed of 5 weight oil that has modifiers added to it to restrict it from thining out to less than a 40 weight oil at operating temperature. However, you still only have the shear strength of a 5 weight oil which much less than the rigors of combustion firing require. Foa a drive engine, I think a single 40 weight would be proper. The stationary perkins generator engine will run on 10W30 but a better recommendation is 15W40.

As an aside comment, anyone with a Detroit Series 92 engine must use a single 40 weight oil that specifically has an API service rating of CFII (combustion firing, two cycle)which means it has an ash content of less than 1%. NAPA part number 75-118 provides an approved 40 weight oil refined by Ashland Oil Co. and sold under the Vavoline brand. It is labed Universal Fleet Plus. Other oils meeting the Series 92 requirements are Rotella DD+ and Mobile 100 40 weight.

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Subject: windshield wipers


Author:
Leon Walker
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Date Posted: 12/ 13/ 06, 10:10am

I have a 1986 PT40 and when I turn on my driver side wiper it will wipe for a while then quit. sometimes I can get it going again and sometime I can't Do I need a new motor and if so where do I get one? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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[> Subject: Re: windshield wipers


Author:
Jim Scoggins
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Date Posted: 12/ 13/ 06, 10:10am

On my 86 I had an occassion where by the windshield wiper would not turn off. I opened the outside compartment and jiggled around on the wires that went into/out of the windshield wiper motor. I am just quessing but give it a try.

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Subject: electrical schematics


Author:
James Fenn
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Date Posted: 12/ 11/ 06, 3:33pm

Wondering if wiring schematics are available for my 81FC35. It would help me to figure our several problems I have: 1. No blinkers on right side, but the right side works on the flasher. I have blinking power at the right solenoid above driver, but not at the junction terminal on the right side swing out door. Somewhere in between. 2. Previous owner put in manuel valves to open engine heat to the w.h. and chassis heat. Is the solenoid valve inline under the cabinet in the Rear bath right before the bath chassis heat? 3. When I turn the ignition to the on position, with gen battery disconnected, I still have power to the gen starter, it starts cranking. Not sure how to disconnect the two remote switches from the gen compartment to see if i might have bad rocker switches inside that are stuck. Any help would be greatly apreciated. This is my second motorhome restoration, just finished a 1972 Cortez, had lots of fun last month in Rocky Point. Saw the bird in Page on the way home, had to have it. I still have my 38' Monaco, but hope to get rid of it and replace it with the bird for our longer road trips. It takes a while just to get far enough south from here in Bigfork, Mt. Thanks, Jim 1981FC35RB

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[> Subject: Re: electrical schematics


Author:
Don Duncan
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Date Posted: 12/ 11/ 06, 3:33pm

Jim,

I had a 1980 so maybe this will be close…

Blinkers: They were both (L and R) in the overhead, there may have been a third for hazard. Suspect the barrel connectors at the load centers for poor connection. Relay could be bad as well. One of the large relays in the overhead is for the Air Conditioning.

Winter/Summer Heat/Front Heat: Look for three water shut off valves under the coach to enable coolant flow. There are also sporlan valves under the bed (side bath), for the summer or winter loop. And a sporlan vavle up front behind the bumper for the front heat. Sporlan valve are normally closed, DC powered fluid control valves that you control at the dash. Front heat, summer heat, winter heat,…

Genset: There is a momentary toggle auxiliary battery switch on the dash that activates a relay to power the generator off the coach batteries as a starting aide. Look under the step well for this (bad relay or maybe bypassed by old owner). Also, on my genset the toggle switch in the genset compartment would sometime stick in the start position; in this compartment a harness ran to the start/stop switch that was from the coach. If yours is a diesel, this may be different. I also had an issue where one of the remote start/stop switches was mounted in a compartment door w/a loose connection. If you opened that door, the generator would run like crap… took a while to notice the relationship.

Those barrel connectors I mentioned should not get hot to the touch. If they do you need to address this as equipment down the line will not be getting the power they need. Try a little deox-it on them, sold at radio shack. Pretty effective stuff, spendy, but effective.

Regards,

Don Duncan
1987 PT40
Beaverton, Oregon (Wet)

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Subject: engine won't start


Author:
keith c.
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 12/ 4/ 06, 4:28pm

I have a 97 43' wanderlodge cranks over but won't start do you know where the fuse might be that I probably have blown, the engine is a detroit 60 series thanks call me at cell 8596610306 was adding a light and touched one of the buss fuses at the rear battery side saw a spark .thanks .

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[> Subject: Re: engine won't start


Author:
Bob Dilks
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Date Posted: 12/ 3/ 06, 10:42am

Best to call BB tech service at 800-992-6337. Air, compression and fuel are needed to fire a diesel so your likely problem is fuel. Either the fuel shutoff solenoid has failed,(opens when the ignition is turned on) or the fuel filter has air in the upper chamber or there is no check valve in the fuel line to the engine which allows the fuel to leak back into the fuel tank while the coach is sitting.

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[> Subject: Re: engine won't start


Author:
keith c
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Date Posted: 12/ 4/ 06, 4:28pm

thanks Bob, for the info. will call on tuesday

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Subject: Cruise Control and Microwave help needed


Author:
K Gove
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 11/ 20/ 06, 6:57am

We have a 1977 Bluebird and love it but a couple of years ago the cruise control stopped working. We bought a rebuilt module and have had several shops work on it but with no luck. One of the fixes articles mentions Book Form SD-10-1 for cruise controls. Anyone know where to get this or have any suggestions?

Also our Thermador microwave has given up the ghost. We are having problems removing the old one. Anyone know how and have suggestions on an affordable replacement.

Thanks,

Katherine

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Subject: Body Trim


Author:
John Peters (1981 35'FC)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 11/ 12/ 06, 6:27am

Greetings! We have just finished a restoration on a 1981 35 foot FC. I am looking for a piece of trim for the front of the bus - the 3' to 4' or so chrome screw cover that borders between the top and botton radiator grills. Does anyone have or know of a place to find this type of trim Thanks, John Peters.

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Subject: Water pressure problem


Author:
Robert Payne (HELP)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 11/ 8/ 06, 3:06am

We have an 1984 FC 35 and after putting water in our tank
there is no water coming from the faucets. Water is flowing through the Jabsco pump (as we disconnected the outgoing line) but only a drip from the fixtures. The pump continues to run when switched on. Also only a small stream when using city water and you can hear water running in the water
tank area. The water fill switch clicks as normal when it is turned off or on. What should we check?
Regards:
Robert Payne

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[> Subject: Re: Water pressure problem


Author:
Scott B
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 10/ 10/ 06, 8:57am

Robert, There can be a few reasons for this to happen but most frequently it is the spolan valve. In our 86FCRB the sporlan valve is under the driver side bed. Many times the diaphram gets a small piece of crud, (calcium whatever) or the diaphram may be worn out. NOT a problem, first of all I would switch the valve off/on several times with a small amount of pressure on the line and perhaps the crud will clear. If not you can take the valve apart without too much work and clean it, or you may need to buy a rebuild kit for it.

As with most of the repairs I perform on our coach, I feel it is pretty easy to repair correctly, and forget about it, than to "rig" it only to have a problem at the most inconvienent time. I you are going to have the valve out why not rebuild it?

Effectively, what is happening is the sporlan is not closing properly and allowing water to by-pass back to the tank, not allowing a pressure build up in the lines. Hence the pump continues to run.

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[> Subject: Re: Water pressure problem


Author:
Jim Scoggins
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 11/ 8/ 06, 3:06am

Check easy stuff first:
Are the drain valves closed?
Is the switch to the air purge on or off?
Is the water tank fill switch on or off?

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Subject: oil leak


Author:
Bill
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 06, 8:33pm

We are the new owners of a 87, 36 BB with DD v6 92 T only 160K one owner. We have made 2 trips with no problems. Today I the engine started great , but I notice a small stream of black oil comming out of a opening in the bottom of a cumilator type tank under the bus. I turned the engine off and clean up the leak with paper towels. I checked the oil level and it was OK. I also checked the oil level for the power steering and hydrolic fan which did not show on the dip stick and notice some signs of lite oil on the pavement. I live in the Tampa ST Pete area.

Thanks for your thoughts!

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[> Subject: Re: oil leak


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 06, 7:10pm

Bill- your coach sounds like it is equipped with a slobber tube accumulator tank. lots of birds have their slobber tubes barely touching the ground. On mine, these are directed to an accumulator tank. My tank has lost the fitting on the bottom of the tank, thus allowing some oil to drip and or be sprayed on the back of the coach and my toad. Your fitting, may be lost or- your tank may be full. You can drain that- messy- and see if thats the problem. Ernie- 83PT40 in Montana

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[> [> Subject: Re: oil leak


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 10/ 24/ 06, 8:33pm

Thanks, There is a hole in the bottom of the tank where the black oil is dripping from and appears to be missing a plug. Someone told me it could be a pluged oil line building pressure which is deverted to the tank. All new oil less tha a couple months old. I'm not sure how to clean the tank. It appears since there is a hole in the bottom, the oil would run out, but only recently notice the oil stream from the tank. I'm not knowledgeable of the DD 92 6 t diesel and why they oil would come out of the engine.

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Subject: ELECTRIC HEATERS


Author:
BOB MALONEY
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Date Posted: 10/ 16/ 06, 5:50am

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET THE KNOBS FOR THE ELECTRIC
HEATERS IN A 87 FC 35?
THANKS
BOB MALONEY
87 FC 35 IN KY

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Subject: Battery charger/inverter


Author:
DANNY MILLER
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Date Posted: 10/ 14/ 06, 8:53am

We own a 1988 FC Wanderlodge, the battery charger is the original, being in use for so many years I feel that the charger is no longer performing properly. it appears that the batteries get charged constantly and boiling them dry.
Any suggestions for an update or replacement?

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[> Subject: Re: Battery charger/inverter


Author:
Don
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Date Posted: 09/ 12/ 06, 3:14pm

Danny,

If your just looking for a charger, I've had good luck with progressive dynamics models (pd9180 etc.), thats an 80 amp unit. Iota and xantrex make excellant converters as well. Basically a "smart" three step charger; consider getting one with some sort of remote control. Xantrex, then Iota are probably more expensive. The Xantrex has a built in bank isolator which in some instances can be usefull, but only a 40 amp output.

If you need an inverter (110V output off the batteries) then you'll probably go with the Xantrex. Most of these have a large battery charger built in. Such as the prosine 3.0; expensive...

Regards,

Don Duncan
1987 PT40
Beaverton, Oregon

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[> Subject: Re: Battery charger/inverter


Author:
GAF
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Date Posted: 10/ 14/ 06, 8:53am

Make sure you have good grounds between all components, engine/alternator, batts., and chargers. I had same problem years ago and found bad ground between chargers and batts.

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Subject: FMCA Convention


Author:
JIm Riordan (Centerfold)
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Date Posted: 10/ 4/ 06, 4:52am

Notice...All you Vintage Birds...We are centerfold material...check out the Oct FMCA mag...You have to look real hard but thanks to our awning birds we can be found!

Jim
Riordan
88WBWLXXV

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Subject: Re: Can not open safe


Author:
Earl
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Date Posted: 09/ 22/ 06, 1:03pm

I have a safe of a deceased family member that I am unable to open I haven't any idea what the combination is nor did I know the safe existed it is a SENTRY #13977 it says made in Rochester New York from Brush pennett Inc. please help me

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[> Subject: Re: Can not open safe


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 09/ 16/ 06, 8:58am

Earl,

There is a Safe Combination posting in the
Files section on the Wanderlodge site at:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/

If the safe is open, it is easy to change the combination.
If it is locked shut , this is an expensive problem for a locksmith or safe cracker,
Maybe you could find a reputable buglar.

Bill

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[> Subject: Re: Can not open safe


Author:
D Nesci
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Date Posted: 09/ 22/ 06, 1:03pm

When I bought my coach the safe was locked and I did not have the combonation A local lock smith contacted the manufacturer with the serial # and they gave him the original combomation no one had changed it and I was able to open it. The manufacturer will only work with a bonded lock smith good luck

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Subject: Collision Repair


Author:
Mike Harris
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Date Posted: 09/ 21/ 06, 6:05am

Would like to let people know that at SagonRv Supercenter,we have certified painters for Wonderlodge motor homes. We are able to rebuild, match paint, & do custom fabrication work to your specs. You can email us pictures and a phone# and we will return your call. Yet another option for Wonderlodge owners.

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Subject: Rubber window seals for '65?


Author:
Bobby Stevens
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Date Posted: 09/ 12/ 06, 7:48am

Hi all,
Does anyone know a source for outside seals for the old awning style windows? I believe 1970 was the last year for these before BB switched to sliders. In profile, the material is an elongated quarter round.

The original rubber on my bird has shrunk to the point where there are 1/2 to
3/4 inch gaps in the corners - no driving in the rain right now!

Thanks,
Bobby Stevens
65 FC31 Gas 391 OR

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Subject: PT40 1984-1986: Where do they rust at?


Author:
Tim Sullivan
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Date Posted: 09/ 7/ 06, 8:05am

I've been shopping around for a BB PT40 1984-1986 model and I'm curious as to specific areas I should be checking for rust on them. I've read that the front generator enclosure as well as the exterior storage cabinets tend to be particular areas to look for rust in. Any other areas I should pay attention to? How about paint bubbling at body seams? Lower body panels in general? Thank you in advance for any thoughts on this.

Tim Sullivan

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[> Subject: Re: PT40 1984-1986: Where do they rust at?


Author:
Leon Walker (1986 40 ft BB for sale)
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Date Posted: 09/ 7/ 06, 8:05am

Tim I have a 40ft 86 BB that im selling I am the second owner It is in almost perfect shape. It has new pergo flooring,8 new tires, 6 new batteries,1 new A/C new injectors and rebuilt fuel pump on the 12.5 KW generator.It has all the bells and whistles that you would expect of a first class motor coach. You can E-Mail me for more info.

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Subject: Newbie with lot's of questions/ 1983 FC 35 ft


Author:
Ed Allison
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Date Posted: 09/ 1/ 06, 8:06pm

My wife and I just purchased our first motor home. We chose a Vintage Wanderlodge 1983 FC 35 ft./ Cat 225hp turbo. We are planning to take off with our two kids for Canada in October and felt Wanderlodge would be the best cold weather motorhome to meet our needs. We are needing help either finding a local mechanic or someone who could go over the things we think need repaired (to make sure we have correctly diagnosed any problem prior to going to mechanic) and general maintenance. We are just south of St. Petersburg Sky Way bridge in Palmetto, Florida. Because of their reputation for durability we would like to keep her for a long time and therefore I need to get familar with how to maintain her. Fortunately it seems to have been well cared for over the years and I am only the third owner. First owner had her till 2000.
As my wife followed me home she said the coach seemed to be leaning toward the passenger side. I suppose first thing to do is to measure from the bottom of skirt on four corners and make sure all corners are same distance from the ground. I was told that the airbags were all in good shape as they were all inspected recently when two of them had been replaced. Did read that their was a valve for each rear wheel that sometimes went bad.
I have never driven a motor home-last night was a first. Their seemed to be a lot of play in the steering wheel-approx 4 inches making it hard for me to keep on the road. Is this just me getting used to driving a Sherman Tank or do I need to have it looked at-if so what usually causes this and what is the fix?
This site was very helpful in convincing me that Wanderlodge was the most sensible coach for us. Thanks

Ed Allison

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[> Subject: Re: Newbie with lot's of questions/ 1983 FC 35 ft


Author:
Sam
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Date Posted: 09/ 1/ 06, 4:47am

Ed, I have a 83 FC just like the one you just purchaced....you said your wife said it looked like the BB was leaning. If the valve went bad, you would not have to have your wife tell you it was leaning, it would be much more pronounced and YOU would have noticed. I had a valve go bad on I 80 in Iowa about a year ago...pulled into a truck stop and had it replaced....they adjusted it to what they THOUGHT was level and I was on my way. 1 mile down the road it was leaning to one side ( but not like it was with the broken valve ). When I got to my destination I took it to a tire place and they attempted to adjust it to level...thought we had it right...1 mile down the road....not level. the point I'm trying to make is that adjusting the valves to where the motorhome is level requires someone who is familier with adjusting the valve.....take it to a good motorhome place and have them do it....don't try and do this yourself unless you have the right equipment to block the frame up so the BB doesn't come down on you and kill you!! there are a few wives out there who had to sell there motorhome after there husbands crawled under there MH and it came down on them and killed them!! There are 2 valves on the back and 1 on the front. You said the BB feels like there is a lot of play in the steering....there might be, but it could be you are over steering. you said you never drove a motorhome before....sounds like you just need to relax and not oversteer. The steering wheel is big and magnifies the play.

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[> Subject: Re: Newbie with lot's of questions/ 1983 FC 35 ft


Author:
Scott B
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Date Posted: 09/ 1/ 06, 7:07am

Ed, FIRST of all you need to check the tire dates, if they are old you are playing russian roulette with the outcome potentially alot of damage. The leaking valve is somewhat of a common problem. I must tell you that on our 86FC I chased a leaning coach for a while, then I finally replaced every one. There are three, one up front two in the rear. If you replace one on the rear better to do both the other is not far behind. As Sam said when you have this work done, it will take several times to level, adjust drive, adjust drive. Been there, shop did not drive it just set it down, 30 miles down the road, 400 buck less, and the coach is still leaning..

If you are in Fla. I would suggesst JOSAM's in Tampa, they do chassis work, and they are top notch. In so far as systems on the coach etc I know of a couple of folks that can "inspect" the coach for you, one is in Fla, two others in Mich,& OK. Email me and I will share their names with you. (cme4boats@aol.com)

In so far as you upcomming trip I would suggest all the seat time you can get. As well as check the entire coach out. You do not want to be stranded on the highway! These old girls can be finicky in the mountains, with air brakes, weight, length to stop etc. Oh one more thing..GET GOOD ROAD ASSISTANCE INS, not the one on your insurance policy but "Coachnet" or another, BEST advice to give you for $99.00/yr you can not go wrong! Just be sure they are used to RV's it is very expensive to tow your coach.

Once you get the coach running great, get used to the "feel" of it, you will be very impressed they truly are a "wanderful" machine.

Best of luck

Scott B
86FC35RB "RUBY" 4SALE
Murrells Inlet SC "Enesto just missed stoppin in last night"

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[> [> Subject: Re: Newbie with lot's of questions/ 1983 FC 35 ft


Author:
Ed Allison
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 09/ 1/ 06, 8:06pm

Thanks for the recommendation on where to have the chasis checked out. I am very grateful. This BB has brand new tires all the way around. I did stumble on a post that said from the bottom of skirt to ground should be 19" on front and 20" on back. My measurements were short by approx 1' on the passenger side and over by one inch on the drivers side. (I parked it on a level spot) I know the previous owner had two new airbags put on it. Perhaps they just did not get it adjusted properly and it needs to be tweaked. The coach had sat for a day and I did not notice it rise so I am assuming that is a good indication that there are no leaks. When adjusting those valves should all the tanks be empty?
When driving it this afternoon the ride seems mushy-makes it comfortable though. What are indications that the shocks shoud be replaced? I will take your advice on the towing insurance and will never get under the vehicle untill I have been properly trained on the correct technique. Thanks

Ed Allison

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Subject: Differences bewteen '83, '84 and 1985 PT40?


Author:
Tim Sullivan
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Date Posted: 08/ 30/ 06, 7:50pm

I'm looking very closely at the 1983-1985 PT40's as I want to buy one and am having trouble identifying any real differences between the years. Could you please tell me of any significant differences bewteen these model years? Thank you very much.

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[> Subject: Re: Differences bewteen '83, '84 and 1985 PT40?


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 12:47pm

Tim- the 83 models do not have all the gauges that the 84 and newer coaches have. In 85, the radiator was moved to the side compartmemnt for the genny. Other than that- not much difference. I miss all the gauges, though. Ernie- 83PT40

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[> [> Subject: Re: Differences bewteen '83, '84 and 1985 PT40?


Author:
tim sullivan
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Date Posted: 08/ 30/ 06, 7:50pm

Thank you Ernie.

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Subject: Engine Service


Author:
Joshua
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 8:14pm

Another question, what should I expect it to run me to have the 3208 fully serviced? There's a CAT dealer here, and they quoted over $800, and thats only if they don't find anything wrong. Would I be better off going somewhere else? (I'm in San Antonio if anyone knows of a good mechanic for the CAT or anything else on my Bird!)

They were a little surprised when I asked about the engine and they had to call me back because they had to dig out information on it because of it's age.

I just purchased the Wanderlodge, and thought it would be best to have the engine gone over, and would feel a lot better if it was given a clean bill of health by a mechanic before I travel much in it.

Joshua

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Subject: Window Buttons


Author:
Joshua
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 7:59pm

Hey all,

A few months ago a purchased a 78 Wanderlodge, I'm still going through the documentation and learning! I noticed on all the windows there's a small button in the sill that gets depressed by the windows. What exactly is this for? Is there some type of alarm system that was an option? It just seemed odd to have all those window switches doing nothing.

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Subject: Height of a Blue Bird Coach


Author:
Carl
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 7:44pm

I would like to purchase a bird and have it parked at home.
I have a 36 X 50 garage with 12 X 12 over head doors. Will most birds clear 12'? I looked at the blue bird specification page and could not find any reference to over clearance height. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[> Subject: Re: Height of a Blue Bird Coach


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 07/ 28/ 06, 4:51pm

Our Birds is 12'6", there are storage pods and air conditioners on the roof. Our Bird is stored off site, the door is 14 feet. You could possibly dump the air suspension at the entry and drive straight in slowly.
I would suggest a door atleast 13 feet. Raise the door or dig out the floor, While you are at it, dig a pit. This would be a great place to work on the bird.

Bill 88 FC

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[> [> Subject: Re: Height of a Blue Bird Coach


Author:
Joshua
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 7:44pm

A much easier suggestion I could make would be to cut a removable notch in the lower panel of your overhead door if it's a standard multipanel type garage door.

Joshua

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Subject: 1971 bb not running


Author:
cathie magoon
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 7:39pm

Hi, we have a 71' 31 foot bb that is is good shape. Straight body, good interior. Needs to be painted. The problem is that we spun a bearing and runied the crank so that it could not be fixed. We found a new crank but now we do not know if we should sell it as is or scrap it out for parts. We do not have the space to fix it. Any ideas?

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[> Subject: Re: 1971 bb not running


Author:
Joshua
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Date Posted: 08/ 29/ 06, 7:39pm

Hey Cathie,

For what it's worth, I'd get it fixed. Take it to a shop, find out what it takes to get it fixed. For what you can sell the RV for, it would make up for any repair costs and then some. It would seem foolish to scrap a bird that was otherwise in good shape. Otherwise at least sell it to someone who would get it fixed, but you won't make as much I'm sure!

Joshua

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Subject: 1995 a good year for Birds


Author:
Tom
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Date Posted: 08/ 28/ 06, 7:18pm

I'm close to purchasing a '95 Wanderlodge 42', Detroit Series 60. Anyone know if this was a "good" year for Birds?
Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: 1995 a good year for Birds


Author:
Tom
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Date Posted: 11/ 18/ 05, 9:22am

I also wonder if someone knows what kind of mileage I can expect from the "60".

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[> Subject: Re: 1995 a good year for Birds


Author:
max
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Date Posted: 11/ 23/ 05, 6:08pm

hey, did you end up getting this bird? we've always wanted one with a series 60.

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[> [> Subject: Re: 1995 a good year for Birds


Author:
Tom
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Date Posted: 12/ 1/ 05, 9:48am

I did, haven't pick it up yet. I'm hoping for 7 mph from the Series 60.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: 1995 a good year for Birds


Author:
max
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Date Posted: 08/ 18/ 06, 4:37pm

we purchased our '95 Wanderlodge 42' with the Series 60 and love it. mileage is about 7GPH

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[> [> [> [> Subject: Re: 1995 a good year for Birds


Author:
Bill
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 28/ 06, 7:18pm

Is that 7 MPH or 7MPG?

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Subject: 80 Relay problem/ Dump valve


Author:
Jonny
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 28/ 06, 3:05pm

Does anybody know what the 8 pin relay is for under the sink on the wall #KRPA-11dg-120 , It was sparking the other day and the fridge got hot and battery charger got hot, And does anybody know were the air valve is located to dump the air bags??? New Bird owner Jonny

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Subject: Hot water switch


Author:
Leon
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Date Posted: 08/ 4/ 06, 4:03pm

I have 3 switches in my behind the bed closet. The blue book tells me that 1 of them is for the electric hot water heater and for the battery heaters. My problem is I don't know which is which. I have an 86 40 ft. 6v92 any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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[> Subject: Re: Hot water switch


Author:
ERnie Ekberg
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 4/ 06, 4:03pm

Leon- the first switch is the engine block heater, the second switch is the water heater, the third is for the battery heaters. I have no battery heaters on my coach and not many folks have them either. Ernie

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Subject: PT40 w/6V92 Questions


Author:
Don
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Date Posted: 08/ 2/ 06, 12:55pm

Hello,

I had an oportunity to drive a PT40 this weekend and was suprised at how gengerly (slowly) it moved off the line. Certainly, I could not "feal" any torque. Is this typical?

It seemed to pick-up spead at a steady pass, and hold it quite well. An observer would likely think that the driver was being partularly carefel with speed.

I understand that this rig is much more substantial than my 1980FC31. But I expected a bit more apparent tourque. It was very quiet, unlike my front control, so perhaps the real difference was the no noise.

How long in minutes should a 6v92 white smoke after start up before air is purged; and trouble is expected? Also, the engine hours were over 7100, any thoughts about that...?

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[> Subject: Re: PT40 w/6V92 Questions


Author:
Don
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 08/ 2/ 06, 12:55pm

Follow up to my own questions...

My 1980 FC31 is much faster off the line than that 6V92 I drove. My guess is that it did have some low power issue. Though I now understand that some (or all?) 6V92's do have emmissions controls that do limit of the line performance.

I just purchased an 8V92 coach and its' performance totally eclipses the above mentioned coaches.

Just some trivia, Don

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Subject: Engine won't start form consel


Author:
Bill (Short trip)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 25/ 06, 5:49pm

I've just purchased a 1983 35PT Detroit Diesel and was running great at the dealer. When I drove to a storage lot and tried to recrank it would not. The engine will crank from the rear engine compartment, but not from inside. I've checked the Anti Theft switch and the power on switch, but nothing works. Any suggestions?

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[> Subject: Re: Engine won't start form consel


Author:
ernie ekberg
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 19/ 06, 4:52pm

Bill, the rear start toggle switch in our older coaches has caused some problems. Try messing with that. That is what happened to mine- just all of a sudden

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[> [> Subject: Re: Engine won't start form consel


Author:
Bill (Thanks)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 23/ 06, 5:35pm

Thanks for the info the problem was in the toggle switch at the rear engine.

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Engine won't start form consel


Author:
ernie ekberg
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 23/ 06, 6:28pm

Bill, where are you located? WE have LOTS of friends all over the country that could help you out. Ernie- 83 pt40, Montana

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[> [> [> [> Subject: RE: Engine won't start from console


Author:
Bill (Thanks)
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 25/ 06, 5:49pm

We are located in St.Petersburg, FL. still working FT , but looking forward to retiring. We have been researching RV buses for about a year before recently purching our 83-35'PT BB with about 179K one owner who traded for a Prevost at Parliment Coaches. We have never owned a bus and lots to learn.

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Subject: Savannah Rally


Author:
Janice Condon
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 18/ 06, 10:03am

In the May/June flyer it does not list a city, zip or phone for Paul Ward. Can anyone send this to me so I can register? Thanks for your help. Janice Condon

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Subject: coolant overflow/air suspension


Author:
mike
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 7/ 06, 7:39pm

hi everone im proud owner of 85 bb fc ive had about 3 months so still reading up on systems, these coaches are built like tanks and a cut above. anyway not long after pickup the drivers side suspension is not lifting someone said that it is probably one of three air valves or proportioning valve, if indeed the valve, where else can they be purchased bb said around mid 80s i want to save a buck but not at the cost of quality or safety.the other prob is when driving then stop it keeps throwing coolant out the overflow tried having cap on safety and doesnt make a dif, and temp is in norm also there doesnt seem to be a recovery bottle if it had one she would be leak free. open for suggestions.
mike

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[> Subject: Re: coolant overflow/air suspension


Author:
Scott B
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 07/ 7/ 06, 7:39pm

Hey there Mike, we have an 86FC35RB and love it. Your "issues" are very close to mine. The issue of "not lifting" can be somewhat of a concern. First of all there are leveling valves, (generally can be had at major truck centers) There is ONE valve on the front axle and TWO on the rear axle. Consequently, the issue is compounded, does one side not lift or does the other side lift too much? Are they leaking air..not good..need replaced if they are. I chased a "leaning coach" for a long time. I finally gave in and bit the bullet and replaced ALL the leveling valves. If you do not want to do that then I would suggest that if you replace one rear valve then replace BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. Otherwise, you will continue to have problems. When ANY valves are replaced, you must drive the coach around the block and then reset the ride height...every time...It took me six times to get it right.

The coolant issue is also near to my heart. On our FIRST trip I noticed coolant leaking, and the low coolant light came on, I continued to add coolant thinking that was the fix. WRONG. I would suggest you check your water pump for seepage, very common when water pumps are failing or have failed. If you do not correct it then you will prolly have to look forward to replacing head gaskets..5K at the CAT dealer! (new heads gaskets, clean radiator etc)

Generally, when these old girls give you a warning signal, like you are seeing, then you need to pay attention, and dig into finding the problem. Otherwise,you can expect some roadside assistance..NOT FUN..I would look very closely at the water pump, radiator cleaning (very common with older coaches, stuff settleing into the bottom of the radiator and causing higher than normal temps) maybe time for a radiator cleaning...

Just a word to the wise, if you have not done such, get a good road assist company, NOT THE INSURANCE COMPANIES..Try FMCA or Good Sam or Camping World.

ONE OTHER CAUTION...if you need towed..make sure the tow company understands you need an extra long "stinger" (the part they slide under the front end) and EXTRA HIGH LIFTS (so not to crush the oil pan) I insist that when calling for towing, the tow company call me BEFORE they dispatch a truck. I do this to explaing the coach (very heavy, long stinger etc) so as not to incurr two fees for the first wrong truck dispatched and then the correct truck.

I hope this helps.

ScottB
86FC35 "RUBY" (for sale)
Murrells Inlet SC "right next to heaven"

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Subject: 88 Wonderlodge W.B. 40' XXV


Author:
Paul Williams
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 06/ 29/ 06, 11:21am

Hello all.
I am so glad my wife found this Q&A area. We are going full time. Just sold the house and are now serious about getting a rig. We are on a limited budget and hoping to negotiate down to 120k. They are asking 144,900.
I am concerned that after buying, fixing unseen problems and upkeep might squeeze us too much.
Is this a good deal?
This Bird Is gorgeous! 1988 XXV silver anniversary model. It has the 8v92 and a 4 sp Allison. H.W.H hyd lvl jacks. 1500W inverter, 12.5kw kohler gen set. New refrig and micro/convec. There are lots of bells and whistles.
She has been inside all her stored life and has 65,800mi original mi on it. A big construction company owner has owned it for his personal toy. He even had his mechanics come to the storage to keep it up.
The gen has 1400hours on it.
How long will a well kept gen last?
Are there any places I can probe to find rust?
The rear bumper does have a small amount of rust.
With 3 roof and 1 engine A/C units, will I have to convert or should I wait till they need service to then convert?
The only thing I will have to add is a washer and dryer combo. How tuff are those units to install since the plumbing is not in?
I am sure that if I buy this rig I will have lots of questions.

Thanks in advance.
Paul

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[> Subject: Re: 88 Wonderlodge W.B. 40' XXV


Author:
Paul Williams
[ Edit | View ]

Date Posted: 02/ 3/ 02, 5:10pm

Hello all. I would like to thank those that responded to my query. I am now a proud owner of a 1988 Wide body 40' XXV silver anniversary model. I spent 5.5 hours crawling over, under, around and in the rig. I found only minor items. I was able to talk Holland Motor Homes into reducing their asking price of 144,900 to 117k with a one year almost bumper to bumper extended service protection. They also placed in the purchase a stipulation of a closure of the sale at the closing of my home escrow in 30 days and giving me a discount on labor to put in the systems that I want, i.e.: washer/dryer, sat system, tow package, upgrade on some electrical items.
The people at Holland Motor Homes here in San Diego are very classy people. If I ever need work on the rig, I will try going there.
This new learning curve will be challenging but fun.
Time to look through the chat archive and any other place a Blue Bird is mention. hehe

Thank you again and fun running.
Paul and Judy Williams 88 XXV 40'

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[> [> Subject: Re: 88 Wonderlodge W.B. 40' XXV


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 02/ 16/ 02, 9:09am

Paul, you had good luck at Holland MH in San Diego. I am curious to who your salesman was. I have talked to a couple and they usually indicated they are not willing to negotiate at all. So I am very impressed with your results. Thanks for your help, Bill

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[> [> Subject: 1993 Wonderlodge W.B. 40' XXV


Author:
elton kleist
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Date Posted: 06/ 29/ 06, 11:21am

my check water in fuel light is on. We drained all fuel and now how do you reset light?

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Subject: rear bumper and mirrors


Author:
Scott Bauerle
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Date Posted: 06/ 26/ 06, 7:12pm

I have a 33 ft. 1977 that I am repainting. I need a rear bumper ( mine is dented ) and new mirrors. Does anyone know where to lacate this stuff or what a possible replacement could be?

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[> Subject: Re: rear bumper and mirrors


Author:
Stephen
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Date Posted: 06/ 26/ 06, 7:12pm

Buy a steel painted bumper from Bluebird and have it chromed should run around a 1,000.00 a factory chromed bumped is around $1500.00

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Subject: Dash AC for FC


Author:
Joe Heilmann
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Date Posted: 06/ 19/ 06, 10:27am

I bought a '79 FC with an inoperative dash AC unit and has not been converted to R134. The generator has a starter alignment problem. When I pick it up, I will have no AC. Does anyone know of a replacement unit I can bring with me and swap out before I head back.

Thanks,
Joe Heilmann

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Subject: Power steering


Author:
Gardner Yeaw
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Date Posted: 06/ 7/ 06, 10:08am

Was power steering standard on the 80's FC units? If not, can it be retrofitted?
Thanks,
Gardner

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[> Subject: Re: Power steering


Author:
Lucas Willemse
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Date Posted: 06/ 6/ 06, 6:38pm

I own a 1980 FC35 and it does have factory power steering.

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[> Subject: Re: Power steering


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 06/ 7/ 06, 10:08am

I do not think you could drive very far without power steering,

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Subject: No Air out one duct


Author:
BGJOWERS
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Date Posted: 06/ 4/ 06, 5:42pm

We have a 1983 Blue Bird PT35 and have one supply AC vent that does not hafe any air comming out the grill. Is there any dampers inside the duct or has the duct come lose. How would you access the duct and what would be the most likly location. There are two discharge grill in the sitting area and only one has air discharging.

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[> Subject: Re: No Air out one duct


Author:
Bill Jowers
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Date Posted: 06/ 4/ 06, 5:42pm

One of three evaporator froze up.

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Subject: USING SHOP AIR


Author:
RE BRAKE 1983 FC-35
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Date Posted: 06/ 1/ 06, 7:35pm

I WANT TO USE SHOP AIR WHEN WORKING ON THE COACH.WHERE SHOULD I HOOK MY SHOP AIR COMPRESSOR INTO THE SYSTEM. THERE WAS A FITTING CLOSE TO THE LUBE OIL TANK THAT ALLOWED FOR QUICK HOOK UP, I THINK THAT WOULD BE THE PLACE
????
RE BRAKE 1983 FC-35 SB

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Subject: Need Inspection in GA


Author:
Scott Medlock
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Date Posted: 05/ 31/ 06, 7:05pm

Need to find someone that isn't too far from West Central GA...

Have a BB there I would like to have someone take a look at before I buy it.

scottm@medlock.net

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[> Subject: Re: Need Inspection in GA


Author:
Rocky
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Date Posted: 05/ 31/ 06, 7:05pm

I am a Bluebird owner and live in s.central Ga. maybe I can help.

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Subject: Need pre-purchase inspection


Author:
George LaLonde
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Date Posted: 05/ 31/ 06, 6:05pm

I'm looking at two BBs, each within 2hrs of Kansas City but in opposite directions. Looking for experienced BB owner to perform very thorough inspection with an open mind- one is FC the other PT. I like both for very different reasons. One is front entry- the other mid. Would also like imput from forum members.

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Subject: 69 Blue Bird Inn


Author:
mike
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Date Posted: 05/ 30/ 06, 7:22pm

I have a rare 1969 Blue Bird Inn there were only a few made and it has been in my family since 1972 I am looking for any information at all on this model any one intrested in pictures please contact me at bimibound@aol.com

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[> Subject: Re: 69 Blue Bird Inn


Author:
Kathy
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Date Posted: 05/ 30/ 06, 7:22pm

Mike if you look on the history page on this site you will find a link "A very special look at the past" just above the update area. Click on that link and you will see a brochure form the very early birds. I'm not exactly cure what year it is but it's close. You might find information in there to help you.

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Subject: RECOMMEND A CAMPGROUND IN RAPID CITY, SD


Author:
John Finn
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Date Posted: 05/ 26/ 06, 4:06am

I need to find a campground for the week of July 19 to the 25, in Rapid City, SD this is a week before the Sturgis rally. I will be meeting up with some friends that will be returning from their motorcycle ride on the old Route 66 from Chicago to California and then they will ride back to Rapid City and meet up with myself and some other friends from North Dakota to make daily rides around the Black Hills and surrounding areas on our Motorcycles.

Since I bring my bike along with my car in an enclosed trailer, I will need a campground that either has a pull through long enough to handle 62 feet overall, or a place that I can detach and store the 27 foot trailer. I will need full hookups and prefer 50 amp service, but I can get by on 30 amp if need be.

Can anybody recommend such a campground that they have stayed at in that area? I considered using the FamCamp on the US Air Force Base also. but have limited information about it, but I qualify to use it, anybody stayed at the FamCamp?


"REMEMBER SEPTEMBER 11, 2001"
John Finn
'82 35FCRB
BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE
TO VISIT THE "FINN'S INN EXPRESS" REMODELING ADVENTURE
GO TO;
http://www.pbase.com/image/24977457
'66 SUPERIOR / IH 392 GAS V8 32' PUSHER "FOR SALE"
SEE THE OLD COACH AT:
http://www.pbase.com/image/26052733
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA

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[> Subject: Re: RECOMMEND A CAMPGROUND IN RAPID CITY, SD


Author:
Jim Scoggins
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Date Posted: 05/ 23/ 06, 2:52am

The koa up by rushmore is a great camp ground.
I have stayed at the FAMCAMP--excellent facility and my first choice.

regards,
jim

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[> [> Subject: Re: RECOMMEND A CAMPGROUND IN RAPID CITY, SD


Author:
John Finn
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Date Posted: 05/ 24/ 06, 2:21pm

Thanks Jim,

I made reservations at Angostura State Recreational Area at Hot Springs, SD about 40 miles south of Rapid City. The fee was $103.00 for the week, with 50 amp service and a 70 foot back in site, so I won't have to disconnect my trailer. I believe that I may have to also purchase an entrance permit too, but I'm not sure of that cost, a yearly is $25.00. The site is close to the reservoirs lake.

"REMEMBER SEPTEMBER 11, 2001"
John Finn
'82 35FCRB
BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE
TO VISIT THE "FINN'S INN EXPRESS" REMODELING ADVENTURE
GO TO;
http://www.pbase.com/image/24977457
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: RECOMMEND A CAMPGROUND IN RAPID CITY, SD


Author:
Jim Scoggins
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Date Posted: 05/ 26/ 06, 4:06am

You will enjoy the town of Hot Springs--off the beaten path for bike week.

I don't know anything about the rec area itself

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Subject: Leveling, Sitting


Author:
Dave G
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Date Posted: 05/ 16/ 06, 7:06am

Got A couple of wannabe questions for you folks.
Did FC models come with leveling jacks? Was it optional?
Also- what is the routine for entering and leaving the pilot/copilot seats on an FC? Doesn't look like there is much clearance.
Thanks for the info.
Dave in WI

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[> Subject: Re: Leveling, Sitting


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 05/ 16/ 06, 7:06am

Dave, the FC models did have jacks. The wanderlodge 2 coaches did not. To enter and exit a FC is a little more difficult then a pt.

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Subject: Propanevalves


Author:
Marvin Skaggs
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Date Posted: 05/ 11/ 06, 2:27pm

Can someone tell me why with full tamk and the main valve on tank and the valves in the outside fridge compartment on I still get no gas to anything?
thanks, marvin
1984 pt40

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[> Subject: Re: Propanevalves


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 05/ 4/ 06, 4:43am

Marvin, see if your propane detector has defaulted to close the valve. mine was dirty once and I took it apart and cleaned it.

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[> [> Subject: Re: Propanevalves


Author:
Marvin Skaggs
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Date Posted: 05/ 4/ 06, 10:40am

thanks

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: Propanevalves


Author:
Scott B
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Date Posted: 05/ 9/ 06, 11:53am

Marvin, you may also want to check the main sensor, in our coach (86FC35) it is under the fridge. Sometimes it may get turned off by the sweeper, or by a foot when getting something from the fridge. Simply push the button in to turn on/off. A small led light should glow green if it is on!
Best of Luck.

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[> Subject: Re: Propanevalves


Author:
bob maloney
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Date Posted: 05/ 11/ 06, 4:24am

when you find problem please post or email me i am having same prob
tks bob
87 fc 35 in ky

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[> Subject: Re: Propanevalves


Author:
Bill
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Date Posted: 05/ 11/ 06, 2:27pm

Marvin,

The gages are not always accurate, be sure there in propane in the tank.
There is also a automatic safety shut off valve, located near the main tank shut-off valve. It is wired to the propane detector. It automatically shuts off the propane, when the detector senses propane. THese electro-magnetic valves sometimes get stuck in the off position, hence no propane,
We had to replace this safety valve and the propane detector.

Bill 88 FC

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Subject: NEW STYLE 'BIRD DECALS & BOSCH RELAYS


Author:
John Finn
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Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 06, 4:16pm

I just received an order of new style 'Bird decals, the wording is a little different than I previously had designed. I got to thinking if the decal was placed too close to the driver or passenger, that it might imply that they were who it was referring to and not the 'Bird.
Here is the description and the link to see what it looks like on my 'Bird.

IT'S NOT OLD - IT'S VINTAGE `BIRD ©
GOLD VINYL DECALS
6 INCHES WIDE BY 5-1/8 INCHES HIGH, WITH RIGHT AND LEFT
FACING `BIRDS FOR OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE VEHICLE, CUT FROM GOLD COLORED 6 YEAR VINYL
$15.00 A PAIR
(ONE RIGHT FACING AND ONE LEFT FACING)
PLUS POSTAGE AND HANDLING
CAN BE ORDERED IN OTHER COLORS FOR ADDITIONAL COST

http://upload.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/59656165

I also have received another order of Bosch Relays with pigtails, for the Headlight and Taillight upgrade, as I had sold out my stock at Myrtle Beach, these cost a little bit more, as my supplier has raised their prices. Check out;

http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/56964525


"REMEMBER SEPTEMBER 11, 2001"
John Finn
'82 35FCRB
BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE
TO VISIT THE "FINN'S INN EXPRESS" REMODELING ADVENTURE
GO TO;
http://www.pbase.com/image/24977457
'66 SUPERIOR / IH 392 GAS V8 32' PUSHER "FOR SALE"
SEE THE OLD COACH AT:
http://www.pbase.com/image/26052733
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA

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Subject: carpet


Author:
bob maloney
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Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 06, 12:48pm

what is a reasonable price to have new carpet installed in front of fc 35 including engine cover kitchen is wood
tks bob

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[> Subject: Re: carpet


Author:
Ernie Ekberg
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Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 06, 5:20am

Bob, lots of factors here. if you remove all carpet/pad, and the tons of staples- that will decrease the overall price. It is also better to remove the doghouse, top and bottom. If you need insulation, now is the time. we have done a lot of Bluebirds, and would bee happy to give you a quote off forum.Ernie Ekberg, 83pt40 in Texas. in the business since 1972

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[> [> Subject: Re: carpet


Author:
bob maloney
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Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 06, 12:43pm

would like quote both ways just send to my email
tks bob
i would probably want to do insulation and cleaning but price both ways

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[> [> [> Subject: Re: carpet


Author:
bob maloney
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Date Posted: 05/ 5/ 06, 12:48pm

hey not good at this email is bb87@netzero.com hope this works
tks bob
87 fc 35 in ky

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Subject: Wanted Blue Bird


Author:
Steve
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Date Posted: 04/ 29/ 06, 9:35am

Hi All

I have been trying to contact Don in Oregon reguarding his 1980 Bird. Have not gotten an answer, If he is on the net woould he contact me at mr34@pipeline.com

Thank you
Steve
montana
406-443-8240

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[> Subject: Re: Wanted Blue Bird


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 04/ 19/ 06, 3:03pm

Is that the Don from Bremmerton? Ernie Ekberg, 83pt40

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[> [> Subject: Re: Wanted Blue Bird


Author:
Don Duncan
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Date Posted: 04/ 29/ 06, 9:35am

Hi all,

It is Don from Beaverton Oregon, and I have been able to contact Steve.

Thank you.

Don Duncan

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Subject: FC weights


Author:
Alfred Pechin
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Date Posted: 04/ 19/ 06, 6:53pm

Looking at FC's between 1980 to 1989. Would like to get a general idea about weights. I'm interested in knowing what kind of GVWR, UVW, and CCC I would be looking at for these kind of units. We would be full timing in it.

Alfred

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[> Subject: Re: FC weights


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 04/ 19/ 06, 6:53pm

alfred- the FC's don't have any CCC issues that I'm aware of. ernie-former 84 35FC, now 83 pt40

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Subject: Leaky water supply lines


Author:
Bob Kay
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Date Posted: 04/ 18/ 06, 1:01pm

I am a new Bluebird owner. I have a 1982 Wanderlodge. Durring a quick freeze the water was drained but the lines were not blown out. It now leaks when filling. Can I fix this and how? or Where do I go? I live in north Texas, DFW area. My tank level gauges do not work either. Help

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[> Subject: Re: Leaky water supply lines


Author:
ernie ekberg
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Date Posted: 04/ 18/ 06, 1:01pm

Bob, we used some clear plastic tubing with worm drive clamps and put that over the leaks. i live in weatherford, where are you? Ernie Ekberg-83pt40

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Subject: fuel tanks


Author:
Icepick
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Date Posted: 04/ 11/ 06, 5:15pm

I have 1968 Bird with dual 60 gal tanks. My switch for the tanks has never work, for the past 4 yrs when driving the fuel has been pulled simultaneously from both tanks while in operation. Here recently I ran out of fuel, I knew I had plenty of fuel. I dip my tanks as I always do and found the front tank empty and the back tank full. I added fuel in the front tank fired her up and was on the road again. Can anyone comment on what is causing this to happen. THANKS!

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