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05 /19/ 26, 1:38pmLogin ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 12[3]45678910 ]
Subject: Re: Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement


Author:
Rich D.
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Date Posted: 06/ 23/ 08, 9:58am
In reply to: Michael Putz 's message, "Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement" on 06/ 21/ 08, 9:27pm

I believe you will find that a tankless electric water heater will be less than satisfactory for RV use. Even if you have a 50 amp 120/240V service available you will be severely limited by the fact that you will have to wire the unit for 120V operation or it will not function when connected to a 30 amp 120V shore connection. At 3.4 BTU's per watt of electricity you just can't get enough heat to heat water on the fly. With a 30 amp hookup devoting just 10 amps for battery charging, microwave, TV, etc. (and NO air conditioning) you leave 20 amps or 2400 watts for heating the water. That's only 8184 BTU's. Not enough to heat more than a trickle. Most tankless heaters are about 60,000 BTU's for a max of 2 GPM. You will need to go with a gas or diesel tankless or a tank type electric.

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[> Subject: Re: Suggestions on Fresh Water Tank replacement


Author:
Don
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Date Posted: 07/ 9/ 08, 12:26pm

Hello,

Replacing the freshwater tank is a pretty involved undertaking. Expect having to tear out much of the surrounding structures to get to it. The flooring might be rotted to the consistency of barkdust under that tank. The steel studs holding the old flooring down might be waiting to puncture the tank even more unless removed, their tops rusted away and now present themselves as nails. The rubber sheet that the tank sat on is probably dried out an no longer offers a non-slip surface that it originally did to keep the tank in place. You may find that other structures that alway sat on this flooring have also sufferred structural setback and need attention, shimmed or materials added/replaced.

Don't be surprised if a tank replacement is not redilaly located (INCA made the original and they were not interrested in making a replacement). Or that no local plastic shops want to take on the repair or fabricate a replacement. Your tank is weldable and repairable, go airless, it is low density PE (polyethelene, spelling is something like that). This is something that you can do yourself.

You could go with a simpler tank design, smaller, but if you install your overflow differently, end up with about the same effective capacity. On my 1980, I lost probably 20 gallons on the first steep hill.

If your tank still has original copper tubing to tank fill, this is to rigid and the tank will crack their. Swap this out with flexible plastic tubing. Stock on later busses.

I also beefed up the bed supports, rebuild the fridge shelf, added modern computer fans for the fridge. In general improved upon the factory design, with future access a consideration.

Don

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