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09 /13/ 25, 1:44am

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Subject: restoration Author: jack zeth [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 10/ 12/ 02, 5:00pm have opportunity to buy the family 1984 pt40,w/6v92. replace all oils and fluids to include the wheel bearings. the bird has not been run or used for over ten years. noone has tried to start it or run anything for that period. i am not afraid of anything mechanical if i have enough info to make sensible decisions. Basics are a must. i plan to live in it for ever.yup. no workshop manuals on any equipment . how do i proceed w/engine pre starting? i'm assuming it will run for a while until i can get some things checked out. probably rebuilt soon. very important is the storage tank integrity and sanitation. i'm thinkin in the neighborhood of 15.000 w/me doing most of the labor. any and all help is appreciated, as i hope to thank all on the road in the fall of 03. i know it's a lot to ask, but just help me get started. JZ [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Replies:

[> Subject: Re: restoration Author: L.R. Longcrier [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 10/ 13/ 02, 11:21am The first thing I would do is to contact the local Detroit Engine supplier/dealer, and get as much info from them as possible, and then take it in to them and have an engine diagnostics run on it. Blue Bird may have some info on your Coach,Call them and ask for the service department. Have your VIN # available when calling. I find them most helpful. Next get the Manufactuers name and model numbers for all of your appliances and contact them for litrature on the various items that might need repair. You might look in the archives of this colum for repaires that have been made by other owners, I find this site to be very informative on almost anything that I have had problems with. LeRoy R. Longcrier VB#1191 [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Re: restoration Author: Jeff Miller [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 10/ 13/ 02, 8:15pm Before starting the engine drain the condensation from the fuel tank, there should be a drain on the bottom.Then I would replace the fuel filters and prime. Next would be replacing the oil and filters (pre-fill the filter), and then check the air intake for nests or holes, and replace the air filter if necessary. After that I would try starting. Let it crank for a little while before trying anything drastic so that oil can begin to circulate. Good batteries are necessary as a diesel will not start well at low RPMs cranking, and be sure you don't crank too long as you will overheat your starter. If it doesn't hit after a little cranking, you can try a little WD-40 as a starting fluid. You might or might not have an ether starting aid, but I recommend against using ether as it can stretch head bolts and also it washes the lubrication off of cylinder walls which can cause scoring. Once you get it to run, keep an eye on your oil pressure, and on your fuel filters. You might have to dispose of the fuel if you have a severe algae problem, algae grows in diesel fuel tanks in the condesation on the walls above the fuel, and you will probably see it in the filler neck if it has a severe case. The fuel itself should be good. Before running it on the road, it is a good idea to replace all of the engine coolant, bad coolant can kill a wet-sleeve diesel. You will want to run a good coolant, with distilled water, and NO MORE THAN 60% Coolant in your water. Good luck. For information on any of the systems in the coach, there are plenty of us out here with manuals and knowledge. If you don't have any luck at this site, hop over to www.wanderlodge.org and we can help you there. - Jeff [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Re: restoration Author: Harvey Lawrence [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 10/ 17/ 02, 8:20pm I think if it were me, I would pull both head pan covers and six injectors. Then I would carefully spray a light oil into each cylinder and let them set a day or so. DO NOT EVEN TRY TO ROLL THE ENGINE OVER UNTIL THIS OIL SOAKS IN WELL. The reason being that your engine has set so long that it may have rusted the pistons & sleeves and if you move the pistons without lubrication you could score piston sleeves. In a day or so, bump the starter so the pistons move to new locations but not far, and then oil again. Replace and reset injectors and pans an try cranking it. Of course you will need new batteries as well. Then I would try to get it to a detroit dealer or truck dealer who HAS SOME ONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO WORK ON THE 6V92. Believe me when I say not all Detroit dealers do!! From there it is a matter of checking systems to see what works. Do not try to jump start the thing and remember that when you pull the injectors you will remove the control rack. This must be reconnected before trying to start the engine, otherwise the engine will run away and destroy itself. I would also drain any fuel in the tank and use it to kill unwanted grass, and replace it with fresh fuel. If you do not feel confident in doing these things then find a good 6V92 man. Of course follow the advice about changing oils and the filters and change the one on the transmission too. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Re: restoration Author: Michael Holman [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 11/ 29/ 02, 5:26pm We bought an 85 PT40 that had little use (1900 hours). The coolant did not have the protectant in it (not talking about antifreeze). Because of this we ended up with a $11K top side rebuild due to coolant in the oil. Detroit Diesel has a test kit for the coolant. Everyone should have one of these. Michael Holman [ Post a Reply to This Message ]