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05 /19/ 26, 4:14pm

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Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Bob Dilks [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 12/ 29/ 01, 6:20am In reply to: thebomguy 's message, "Lights and Stuff" on 12/ 26/ 01, 12:38pm Oops, forgot one of the most common problems for heater failure. If you live in the southern half of the U.S. and do not have insect protectors on the exterior intake and exhaust ports of your furnaces there is every possibility wasps, particularly "mud dobbers" could have built their nests in the furnace. For some reason the wasps build in the furnace itself rather than the intake and exhaust tubes. Bench testing and burner removal and cleaning should reveal any of these nests. I had all three furnaces bench tested last year and one furnace had three nests, anothe two nests and I didn't get a chance to talk with the technician on the third. Good luck. [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

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[> Subject: Re: Lights and Stuff Author: Bob Dilks [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12/ 30/ 01, 5:26am First the fluorescent lights - the ballast (really an inverter from 12 volts to about 1400 volts) degrades over time and needs to be replaced. Blue Bird carries replacement fixtures for about $55 that are head and shoulders above other replacement fixtures you can buy in the $35 to $45 range. There can be many reasons the hot water heater is not working. First lets assume that the circuit breaker in the electrical distribution panel is turned on and has been voltaged checked to see that current is flowing to the on/off toggle switch for the hot water heater and that that switch has aslo been checked for operation so that power is going to the water heater cabinet. Lets also assume the water heater actually has water in the tank. To electrically heat the hot water, the current first passes through a 12 volt operated relay located on the inside water heater cabinet wall that turns off AC current if the low water sensor on the water tank fails to have a ground, either through the tank water as designed, or to the chassis which is a way to circumvent or test the sensor. After passing through the relay, the current next goes through a high temperature switch in the tank designed to cut off the AC current if the low water sensor fails to detect an empty tank. Check to make sure the plunger on the high temperature switch is pushed inward to reset the switch and allow current to flow onward. Next the electrical flow is through the thermostat switch and then on to the heating calrod in the tank. A failure in the relay, high temperature switch, tripped high temperature switch, thermostat switch or calrod can all cause the hot water heater not to operate. Get out your multimeter and check for current at every location. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]