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05 /19/ 26, 6:26pmLogin ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 12345678[9]10 ]
Subject: A/C - "AutoFrost" ... an alternative to R12?


Author:
Randy Frazier
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Date Posted: 10/ 21/ 01, 11:32am

Has anyone tried recharging their dash Air Conditioner system with an alternative to R12? I have seen this "AutoFrost" R12 substitute and wondered if anyone has tried it. Or alternatively, what is involved in re-fitting the dash air to a "modern" freon replacement, and who does that sort of work? (note - I have an '87 Forward Control, w/ CAT 3208TA 300HP Turbo.)

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[> Subject: Re: A/C - "AutoFrost" ... an alternative to R12?


Author:
Jeff Miller
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Date Posted: 10/ 21/ 01, 7:06pm

I watched a technician do this at Holland Motorhomes, he changed it over to R-134a. The tech. told me that they change many older Wanderlodges over to R-134, and that it is an economical and reliable change (but I don't remember the price).

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[> Subject: Re: A/C - "AutoFrost" ... an alternative to R12?


Author:
Bruce Morris
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Date Posted: 10/ 22/ 01, 4:48pm

If you check here in the Fixes section Jim Scoggins has an article on changing the dash air from R12 to R134A. He did it himself and said it wasn't as involved as he thought it would be.

You might want to read it, or you can also find it at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wanderlodge in the Files section.

Regards, Bruce in Raleigh, NC KI4ME
1983 Wanderlodge 35FC-RB
FMCA 7142s GoodSam
Web: http://www.geocities.com/bamnc/mypage.html

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[> Subject: Re: A/C - "AutoFrost" ... an alternative to R12?


Author:
Elmer Aydelotte
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Date Posted: 10/ 27/ 01, 7:21pm

Go to http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/product.htm#tech%20page that is a site with 12A a direct replacement for 12.

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[> Subject: Re: A/C - "AutoFrost" ... an alternative to R12?


Author:
Jim Scoggins
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Date Posted: 11/ 7/ 01, 3:34am

134A conversion
1986 PT40
Here is some info you all might want to capture.
The air conditioning has gradually deteriorated in my coach. Leaking R12 into the atmosphere and the expense of replacement R12 drove me toward a conversion attempt. Factory conversion, while effective, is expensive ($3500-4000 -- they do replace all the plumbing and all components -- compressor, dryer, evaporator etc., etc)
After some discussion with my local trusty mech at the Highway Garage, Stafford, VA, we decided to try a less expensive approach that while not a perfect solution, gets it done.

Discussion with the factory reps indicate they charged the system with 5-6 lbs. of R12 and then watched the bubbles in the dryer. Note: watching bubbles is not effective for 134. Accordingly, using the 80% conversion we figured somewhere between four/five lbs. would be needed.

We installed a new dryer (in passenger overhead--has the sight gage). The system was evacuated, checked to see if it would hold vacuum, and filled with 4.5 lbs. of 134A, A/C oil, and leak check dye (while visible to the eye it is best to use a black light). It was a 90 degree day, sea level-- pressures were 36 and 247 for low/ high side.

So far, so good. While one cannot hang meat it seems to be working fine.

Wouldn't you know it. After completing the evolution, the long time engineer guru (Guy Moulder) from the factory called. He said the system was a 6 LB system and I should therefore have 4.8 lbs. of 134A in the system.

Total expense was a little over $400.

Now I have a base line. I will explore running new and modern plumbing when/if the need arises.

I bought a charge kit from an auto parts place (about $15) and a couple of cans of 134A from Wal-Mart. My plan: add no more than 1 can if things go south on the road somewhere

Hope this helps. Contact me if you need more info. I saw where some one said i did this my self. Sorta true. I did the dirty work but paid an air conditioner tech for his brains and the evacuation and gage work. Any automotive air conditioner guy can do this.

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