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|Subject: Re: Cockpit Locker Lids
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Date Posted: 1/03/06 7:42:08
In reply to:
's message, "Cockpit Locker Lids" on 28/02/06 19:51:30
As mentioned in another posting I renewed Beachcomber’s locker lids as they too had become unsightly, even a little rickety, being a strange dichotomy of quality teak frames finished with cheap marine ply spanning it. The ply was rebated at the edges (fore, aft and inboard) with a circa 10mm groove within which the ply was pinned by a series of bronze nails, covered by a strip of rubber secured by contact adhesive and which was lifting and breaking. It would appear that yours were a step up by replacing the plywood with hardwood, although both yachts are of 1980 vintage.
I renovated the lids by replacing the plywood and covered the whole top with Tek-Dek, a synthetic wood surface that is extremely durable and defies detection from genuine teak wood. It can be worked exactly like wood and is relatively easy to lay onto the original frame and plywood top. See http://www.tek-dek.co.uk/
One error that I did make was to compensate for the total thicker section and meeting the hinges in their original position by fitting a much thinner rubber sealing strip where the lids seat onto the locker edges, which are raised teak sections – it would be better to plane that edge down to accommodate the extra thickness.
This not a cheap route to go, the Tek-Dek is quite expensive and one needs a special adhesive and tools to properly complete the renovation. However, the finished appearance is really superb and is very durable and maintenance free. The one negative point is that the material gets very hot in sunshine and can be positively painful if sat on ‘au natural’.
There is a small picture depicting the cockpit with the new lids at:
The material is sold in strip form in 2.5 metre lengths and in different edge configurations. You can see the various sections here:
For the locker lid edges there is enough clearance fore and aft to use a continuous edging strip that curves over and covers the edge on the three inner edges while the outer edge butts directly to the coaming. The inner strips contained within the three edging strips are the standard tongue and groove sections.
The lids together are about a square metre in area and I ordered 2 x TD-8604 (edging strip) and 6 x TD-8600 plus adhesive for that area. The entire consignment is relatively compact as the 2.5m strips are rolled and packed in a box.
If you are interested in going down this path I will add a short account of the major activities:
I disassembled the two lids after disconnecting them from the chrome hinges – I would advise leaving the hinges fixed to the vertical side of the coaming as the nuts are not too accessible and are difficult to replace in the confined area.
After removing the plywood the frame was intact in its three sections, formed by pieces of thick, quality teak that could be rubbed down until like new, being firm and stable in the three-sided frame. Keep the original top as it can act as a pattern for the compound curve where it meets the coaming when the new top is cut, especially necessary if you are working at home away from the boat.
New plywood sections were cut from 10mm exterior grade plywood that had been treated with a primer preservative and varnished, concentrating on the end grain edges, then fixed to the rebated solid edge wood frame by countersunk stainless steel screws. They were then ready to apply the Tek-Dek strips. The frame should be left unvarnished and just oiled with teak oil when the lids are completed.
The curved edge strip that rims the three sides should be cut first with 45º joins between the fore and aft sections where they meet the long, inboard section. The tongue and grooved sections must be cut very accurately as any gap, either due to incorrect length or angle of cut, will be noticeable. The last section, where it meets the coaming will have to be also cut to fit the width. The shiny finish on the curved edge is best sanded with a fine paper to produce a matt wood effect.
Be sure to cut ALL sections and mock up each lid to test for fit before opening the adhesive.
Hope this helps and good luck with whatever you use.
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