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23/07/03 14:51:33Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1[2]3456789 ]
Subject: Re: Cockpit Locker Lids

brian henry
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Date Posted: 7/03/06 15:11:35
In reply to: Peter Burton 's message, "Re: Cockpit Locker Lids" on 7/03/06 0:22:21

I've been thinking further about this. If I were to use a single section of marine plywood then I would cut the sheet to leave a 2-3mm gap between the three frame sections. This may require three pieces of teak strip be secured inside the frame to support the plywood because the gap may take the plywood too close to the inside of the rebatted edge. This will only be possible if the frame has enough clearance to the vertical wooden frame of locker itself.

I would then bed the plywood on black SikaFlex as it is screwed to the frame with stainless steel screws countersunk enough for space to epoxy teak dowel sections above the heads once the plywood is fixed. The dowels should stand proud to be later rubbed flush to the plywood.

Once the plywood has been fully screwed down the black SikaFlex should be then added to the groove where it hasn't been forced up from the bedding, it should be standing above the wood surface around the entire three sides. Naturally, the outer part of the frame and top of the plywood will have been protected with masking tape before applying the SikaFlex.

When the SikaFlex has hardened it can be cleaned flush to the wood surface, thus closely emulating the original rubber edging supplied by Trapper when new. But better as it won't lose its adhension and pull out, like mine did. And it will be waterproof to protect the plywood end grain, provide an adhesive support of the plywood and more stable than glue.

Well, it's a thought, ennit?

Best, Brian.

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Subject Author Date
Re: Cockpit Locker LidsPeter Burton21/03/06 17:54:16

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