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Date Posted: 22:46:26 02/26/13 Tue|
A 4-link kit is basically worth what you pay for it. If the price is cheap, then you aren't getting the best parts.
The Heim joints are what escalates the price of a kit the most. They are, however, what makes one kit work better than the next. Cheap Heims like the 2-piece ones we used to call $8 Heims are what comes in the cheap kits. Moly or 17-4 PH stainless ones are more money. (some a lot more) Always get the ones with the teflon liner if your budget allows. That takes most of the friction out of the torque application and allows you to use more of your power to move the car instead of fighting the resistance of a dry, galled cheap Hiem to make the suspension move. With the cheap ones, you need to disassemble, clean and lubricate the balls occasionally to keep them free. Discard them when they get rusted, galled or worn to where you can feel the clearance.
Most of the brackets are pretty much price equal if they are similar materials. The biggest difference is in the material they are cut from and by what method. Flame cut mild steel is the lowest price parts. Computer machined Moly are the most expensive and laser or water jet cut ones are in the middle.
I recommend buying a kit from a professional fabricator like Jerry Bickel or Rick Jones for the top of the line stff, or even A R T for the mid grade kits. They have real quality pieces and their stuff will do a good job. Some of them use heims from companies that use an injected black plastic looking liner that works ok, but is not as good as an Aurora or NMB. Theirs are lined with a teflon layer that needs no lubrication.
Competition Engineering, Chassis Engineering and some of the other smaller shops sell parts that work ok, but are not suitable for a lot of power. Like I said above, the heims are the limiting factor. Theirs are the cheap ones.
I believe that in most cases you should build your car at least one level above what you are going to run at first. That way, when you step it up, and you usually will, you don't have to make big chassis changes. Why build a car to take a 12" tire when it costs the same to move the frame (which you have to do in most 12" tire cases)a few more inches to accept a larger one later??? Costs the same saves big $ later.
Just my thoughts... build for what you are going to run and plan ahead